We were up bright and early and meeting our Gamarjoba Tour, this time to venture east into the Caucasus Mountains which we knew was going to be a bit of a trek.
In fact, it was quite possible the day would be longer than expected because we found out after we booked that the ancient Lomisoba festival was being celebrated today in a village on our route. Pilgrims walk from the village of Mleta, with some 950m of ascent, to the Church of St George at Lomisa in the Caucasus Mountains. Once the site of a pagan shrine, its name is connected to the bull Loma and Lomisa the moon deity, but when Christianity came to Georgia, this deity was identified with St George, and an Orthodox church built on the site. Following the liturgy, the festival famously involves the ritual sacrifice of rams or sheep, which remains a controversial but deeply rooted tradition and draws a huge number of people to celebrate.
Our first stop was the Ananuri Fortress, ancestral seat of the powerful Dukes of Aragvi since the C13th which has survived countless sieges and power shifts …
… and at its heart, The Church of the Assumption.
It is decorated with ornate carvings on its facades, with angels, winged lions, mythical beasts and floral and fauna surrounding a Georgian Cross …
… and some very old Georgian script above the door.
From the ramparts, there is a great view of the beautiful Zhinvali lake.
But all is not what it seems as this is actually a reservoir formed by a Soviet-era feat of engineering completed in 1985. Zhinvali was once a thriving medieval hub and a vital crossroads of the Silk Road and there was a race against time for archaeologists to save some of its history before flooding.
We had some time to explore.
Lunch was at a mountain restaurant, sharing mushroom khinkali, lobio bean stew and grilled veg … and even watched the khinkali being made.
All good so far, but then the traffic jam started and we spent over an hour just to get through Mleta with all the celebrants parked everywhere, some camping overnight, others cooking.
Just as we thought we might be clear, we saw traffic continuing to queue ahead!
Finally clear and we were on our way once more. We have been travelling along the Georgian Military Highway which has existed for centuries as a trade route between Georgia and Russia, Europe and Asia. Once a narrow horse track and later a proper highway, it remains an important thoroughfare for lorries travelling between Russia, Turkey and beyond and we came across a long queue of trucks parked up along the road. And it went on and on … for 10km as I measured on the way back! The road rises to the Jvari Pass at almost 8000ft and with the galleries added to protect the road from avalanches, it isn’t wide enough for two trucks to pass so the traffic has to take turns. The tunnels are only open for a few hours a day, so drivers often wait days, or even weeks if the weather is bad – to pass through.
Just before we reached the pass, we stopped at the Gudauri Viewpoint which offers breathtaking views of the Caucasus Mountains.
It is also the site of The Friendship Monument of Georgian and Russian People, built by the Soviets in 1983 to celebrate the 1783 Treaty of Georgievsk.
In 1783, Georgia was beset with Ottomans to the west and Persians to the east, and the king thought an alliance with Russia who at least followed the same religion would be the best move to keep Georgia safe. Instead, following the treaty, Russia failed to defend Georgia from Persian attack and by 1801 had annexed Georgia abolishing the Georgian kingdom entirely. Not surprisingly, especially with Russia’s more recent invasion, the name of this monument is less than popular.
Nonetheless, as an example of brutalist architecture, the huge structure is certainly striking and is decorated with a colourful mosaic mural. Georgia is on the left with brown haired people, farming and folklore …
… and Russia is on the right with a red haired Cossack, the Kremlin and a jolly green cosmonaut!
Interestingly the mother in the centre, maybe representing future generations has brown hair!
When we reached the town of Stepantsminda, we swapped to 4×4 vehicles to climb Mount Kazbek to visit the C14th Gergeti Trinity Church decorated with frescos and icons …
… and take in the fab view!
A couple of the lads on the tour were staying for a couple of days to go hiking, and certainly having a chance to walk a bit and see the church from a distance would have been a real bonus, but it was time to go.
There was a good view of the Friendship Monument …
… and the sun going down over the snowy mountains on our return …
…but soon the journey just became tedious and long, especially as there was still a queue through Mleta. We stopped briefly for honey tasting, which was really just a comfort break for us and the driver, and finally arrived back in Tbilisi some 3 hours later than expected at 11pm. Over a cup of tea and a handful of biscuits before bed, we reflected that a different day would have made all the difference.
Off Travelling Together 