We prefer to visit museums and galleries in the morning while we are fresh so after breakfast we headed to Rustaveli Avenue which is lined with elegant and impressive buildings containing offices, museums and galleries.
It is named after the national Georgian poet, Shota Rustaveli who wrote the medieval epic poem, The Knight in the Panther’s Skin. Until the early C20th, a copy of this poem was part of the dowry of every bride and even today it’s is still taught in school. Tile plaques bearing quotes number the buildings.
The Georgian National Museum contains a wonderful collection of gold in the treasury, highlighting the amazing skill of ancient Georgian goldsmiths. One of the great treasures of the collection is this C2nd BC cup, made from a single sheet of gold on a lathe and decorated with cornelian and lapis lazuli …
… but I loved the detail on this headdress ornament decorated with animals and birds C4th BC.
It was found at Vani, an important settlement in the ancient kingdom of Colchis as well as this striking C3rd BC figurine, adorned with gold jewellery.
With gold mines and expert craftsmanship, Vani is considered the likely destination of Jason and the Argonauts in their mythical quest for the Golden Fleece.
We also saw several kvevri, the clay pots used for winemaking in Georgia. Some were highly decorated …
… but the one with a small grape moulding at the rim was found containing wine remains proving wine has been made in Georgia for 8000 years. This makes it the earliest known evidence of wine making in the world.
At the opposite end of the timeline is the floor dedicated to the 70 year Soviet occupation of Georgia.
Following this theme, we planned lunch at Fabrika, which according to a guide I had read was apparently a Tbilisi icon. Once a Soviet-era sewing factory, it is now a creative space with cafes, performance space and hostel.
It certainly looked the part but we’d obviously picked an off day as it was almost deserted!
After lunch in a bakery with a larger clientele, we took a look round the nearby Museum of the History of Georgian Medicine. It is a repository for extensive records about ancient folk remedies, from the science behind sulphur baths to the development of poisons as a cure and even trepanation! There was even a claim that Medea, the daughter of the King of Colchis was skilled in such potions possibly making Georgia the home of modern medicine!
We also spotted this little church tucked between apartment blocks.
The evening was warm and we sat in the courtyard of Taverna Dariana where Chris just had to try another khachapuri while I enjoyed a little Eastern fusion as my chicken kebab came with a ginger, lime and coconut sauce, before getting an early night before a big trip out tomorrow.
Off Travelling Together 