Breakfast down the road in Roryun, a converted Ryokan was certainly grounding … granola and boiled eggs … and a good start to the day.
We took the bus to the Amazake Chaya tea house which has been serving weary travelers for over 400 years, dating back to the early Edo period.
In those days, this spot was a crucial lifeline for people crossing the Hakone mountains on the Old Tokaido Road and merchants and samurai alike would have stopped here for warmth and rest.
Amazake Chaya is one of the rare tea houses along the old highway that’s still in business today, passed down through the same family for generations.
We ordered amazake, a traditional drink which has been made from fermented rice for over 1000 years as it seemed like a good idea.
It was very sweet, like very runny rice pudding, and really ghastly … and it was served with butterbur shoots pickled in soy sauce as the savoury, salty taste balances the rich sweet drink … one taste and we were out of there!
We set out to walk the Old Tokaido Road, just as travelers did centuries ago, beneath towering cedar trees, down to Lake Ashi.
In the Edo era, the road was paved every year with bamboo called hakone dake that grows locally, in 1680 it was paved with large stones.
Finally we reached the shore of Lake Ashi and hadn’t quite realised until it was in front of us …
… that we need do no more than stand in the right spot on a clear day to get a grand view!
After a number of photos were snapped …
… we went to look for coffee and found a bakery with buns, coffee …
… and seating with a footbath!
I should mention here that while the Japanese loos are amazing, many with built in bidets such as the Toto Washlet, and many with heated seats – even in public loos in the middle of nowhere – they rarely provide paper towels or air driers. We soon spotted that everyone carried a small cloth for the purpose so we bought one each and they have proved very useful … including this occasion!
We walked round the lake shore to see the torii, but were amazed by the queue waiting for their selfie framed in red by the famous floating torii, but I caught this moment in between!
We expected to see the Hakone Checkpoint which once controlled all travel along the road but renovation is underway so it was covered in plastic sheeting!
We took the express bus back to Hakone, then a free shuttle to Hakone Yuryo Onsen for a soak.
We had tried a private onsen, but felt our trip wouldn’t be complete without the proper public experience, so in we went. We were given instructions to follow, which included no photos, so here are a few from their website.
Chris went through the blue curtain for boys and I went through the red curtain for girls and parted company. After a good wash, I walked through to the outdoor bath area and chose a pool to sit in and relax, listening to the sound of water and looking at the forest surrounding us. There were several pools as well as a sauna and cold dip bath. The nudity is a little disconcerting, but after a while it seems of no consequence. After a soak, we had a traditional Japanese clothed massage which uses pressure and kneading to relieve muscle tension … and did a great job on my stiff shoulder!
Having dressed, we met up in the relaxation room where Chris had been learning a bit about manga after seeing their huge collection, then went for dinner. Chris had a tofu salad and tempura …
… and I ordered Hoba-yaki, not quite knowing what to expect! I got a metal dish over a small burner, with thinly sliced beef, veg and miso sauce on top of a magnolia leaf, which stops everything from burning …
… and then had to move the beef with my chopsticks onto the metal part to cook and mix it with the heated miso and veg. It was delicious …
… and went very well with the flight of sake we shared!
