Having already been to the Silver Pavillion, today we came to Kinkaku-ji, or the Golden Pavilion, except this one really is gold!
Originally built as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu in 1397, this Zen temple is one of the most breathtaking spectacles in Japan. The top floor is built in the style of a Chinese Zen hall and the middle floor is in the style of a samurai residence but both are completely covered in sheets of pure gold leaf. At the very top is a phoenix with its wings outstretched.
We were lucky to have such a sunny morning and for it to be shimmering and reflected in the pond.
We have been quite surprised with how warm it has been, especially now we are in Kyoto, almost hitting 30 in the middle of the day, so high time to try a matcha ice cream which was actually lovely, but I’m not sure there was much matcha about it!
A short walk down the road and we reached Ryoan-ji, home to the most famous dry landscape garden due to its architectural trick – no matter where you sit on the veranda, you can only see 14 of the 15 stones! It is said that only through achieving complete spiritual enlightenment can you view all 15 at once.
Inside the pavilion were modern screens painted with a series called Dragons in Cloud.
We had walked quite a way and we were definitely ready for a rest and some luck so we’re pleased to find Cafe Yameneko serving waffles with salad.
That evening we walked through the bustling Nigiri Market, with tempting treats everywhere.
We headed to Nijiya, a small vegan izakaya that combines a bar and a casual restaurant, where we were lucky to find just two seats remaining at the tiny counter serving 6!
There was only one choice, a set meal, and we had sake and plum wine to drink.
The first course was tofu …
… then next up were soy yakitori doing such a good impression of pork kebabs that Chris had to pass …
… before rice balls with miso that were cooked in front of us …
… and finally a chocolate dessert which came sitting on a beautiful plate.
We walked back along Pontocho Alley, a narrow walkway lit by red paper lanterns hung from dark wooden townhouses which was once the working-class entertainment district of town.
Every door a bar or restaurant, about halfway down we were delighted to find Renkon-ya with both a regular and vegan menu and resolved to return another night.
