After a busy couple of days, we began with a slow start and a potter round Seahouses. The tide was out and the sun was shining as we made our way to the harbour.
We saw visitors waiting to take a trip to the Farne Islands, visible on the horizon and the Seahouses Whalebones which had been found washed up on the beach some years ago.
Seahouses is traditionally the home of the kipper, a herring which is split flat, salted and cold smoked. Fish had been smoked for years, but the modern kipper was popularized here in 1843 by John Woodger and the growth of the railways allowed lightly smoked, perishable kippers to reach British breakfast tables quickly and safely. Hopefully there will be an opportunity to try out a kipper roll during our stay.
Later, we went to meet Heather & Stuart in Carnaby’s, a cafe they recommended midway between us. Heather and I met at school and realised we’ve now known each other for over 50 years and it was good to have a catch up over a delicious lunch. She and Stuart recently moved to a cottage on the Ford Etal estate and we are looking forward to spending a day with them next week.
A bit of a walk seemed a plan, so we drove and parked at Craster. We took the path through the village, past another smokehouse …
… to the harbour …
… and along the coast, watching as Dunstanburgh Castle got closer the further we walked!
The castle was built in 1313 by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, who was cousin of the king and leader of the political opposition to him. It was meant as a show of power, situated on a headland, and visible from the royal castle of Bamburgh just down the coast. Thomas led a rebellion against Edward II but was defeated and executed in 1322.
It was then given to John of Gaunt who updated the fortress and it continued a northern stronghold until it suffered heavy damage during the Wars of the Roses. It later fell into ruin and is managed by English Heritage who told us it is the most remote property they look after as it the one furthest from a public road. We looked round the ruins …
… then walked the curtain wall for sea views before a restorative ice cream to set us up for the walk back.
Off Travelling Together 