Giverney … and Monet’s garden

Back in the car, we continued on the Monet trail …

It was an interesting drive as the plan was to avoid the toll road and take quieter roads instead, but they led through so many villages, we couldn’t keep up and the journey seemed to be taking longer and longer! In the end, we got on the peage and accepted this was probably a lesson learnt!

Finally we reached Vernon and parked up to visit the old mill, painted by many including Monet.

A bridge was built here in the C12th by King Philip II to move troops during the war against the English led by Richard I who reigned over half of France. The fortress was built to protect the bridge!

When the war was won, Philip recouped the cost of the bridge by selling rights to establish mills, although only one remains and slowly the bridge fell into disrepair and was later replaced by another nearby.

Continuing, we soon reached Giverney and stopped to check out the village.

It became obvious that it had been completely overtaken by the legacy of Claude Monet who settled here in 1883 with his companion Alice Hoschedé and their respective children, living in Clos Normand until his death in 1926.

The village is very picturesque but filled with galleries, cafes and shops and even a place offering painting classes.

We visited the church and saw Monet’s grave and saw the Museum of Impressionism, but it was too late in the day to want to visit.

Exploring done, we continued to La Ruche for the night. A Logis hotel and bakery, we had a delicious home cooked dinner overlooking the Seine, enjoying salad entrées – smoked salmon and lentil and Greek salad …

… then following with pollack and ratatouille for me and a veggie pizza for Chris.

… while a variety of boats chugged by.

After sampling the excellent bakery items further for breakfast, we returned to Giverney for our 10.30 entrance to Monet’s home and garden. We didn’t quite beat the crowds, but someone mentioned it was a quiet day and we took it all in our stride. The route led us first under the road to the extra piece of land Monet purchased in order to make his water garden. Immediately, there is a lushness and an oriental feel with bamboo and willow providing a background for vivid orange lilies …

… then there are roses …

… finally the lily pond!

At first glance, the planting looks uncontrived, but looking closer, the repeat of certain plants gave it a natural rhythm. The day lilies and roses give the most colour now, but it was obvious there would be a progression of blooms through the summer. The water lilies had only just started flowering, but there were just enough to make our day.

Monet’s bridge was overwhelmed by wisteria and visitors but then there was no chance that any image we could make would come close to Monet’s painting!

I did however stand on it!

A garden needs constant care and the pond was being tidied and several gardeners were busy adding trays of fresh plants to the beds.

The garden in front of the house is a riot of colour …

… with lots of roses many grown up supports to give height to the beds.

There was quite a queue to enter the house …

… and we started with Monet’s studio which has hardly changed and we even spotted a painting of Etratat on the wall!

The house was charming, bright and airy with paintings everywhere, most copies of originals that were known to have been in the house painted by his friends, as well as lots of Japanese prints which inspired both his painting and garden.

It had been hard to find a good angle to capture the garden and maybe from the house was best.

As we walked back to the car, we both agreed it was well worth a visit and even with the crowds, it was still possible to find tranquil corners.

We spent the afternoon driving to Chartres, picnicking on the way …

… and spent the night at The Boeuf Couronné, another hotel with a touch of French chic.

We took a turn round the cathedral, apparently France’s best preserved medieval cathedral.

The west entrance has a Romanesque bell tower on one side and a Gothic spire on the other and between some superb statues round the door.

Inside, the roof soars … the stained glass glistens and we noted the carving on the choir screens and the labyrinth on the floor.

Later we went for dinner at Cafe Bleu, on their terrace overlooking the cathedral before watching the free nightly light show.

Tomorrow, we reach the Loire …

Map