The Road to Bear Lake

file-61E4BD1F-71EA-4A88-9007-836C7D0571A1-3203-0000027F14AF30D3The whole drive south from Jackson to Bear Lake was stunning. To begin with the road followed the Snake River as it wound its way south through a mountain pass. From Alpine to Afton the road ran through a wide valley of grazing land spotted with farmsteads. Afton is the home of the world’s largest arch made of elk antlers creating an archway that covers the entire road and we had to stop for a picture. We thought we had left the geysers behind in Yellowstone, but blow me down, there was one in a field! We passed a horsewoman on a ridge, and a selection of rickety old buildings before picking up part of the Oregon Trail into Bear Lake. We took a few photos, but with a speed limit of 65 and a rather dodgy looking hard shoulder, photo ops were few and far between, but trust us, it was a great drive!

Bear Lake is huge, in fact I saw it from the air when we arrived. It is a brilliant blue from the calcium carbonate deposits and the top half is in Idaho where we are stopping for the night, and when we reach the lower half, we will have returned to Utah.

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We are staying at the Bluebird Inn B&B, in a lovely white clapperboard house, in the Bear Room, filled with bearlike touches.

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We had a lovely meal in the golf club nearby, with a great view of Bear Lake as the sun set.

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All the guests sat together for a delicious breakfast of frittata and homegrown fried potatoes prepared by Cindy. It was lovely chatting to Marilyn and Linda, sisters who were visiting their brother and we swapped tales of life and travels.

Bear Lake is billed as ‘home of the raspberry shake’ as the area was well known for its raspberry production, although following a virus the berry business was largely squashed, but we were lucky to have raspberry preserve on our buttermilk biscuits as we were up and out too early for the milkshake bar to be open.

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A last shot of the lake and we left it behind us.

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Next stop … The Swiss Alps!

Grand Teton


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We were keeping our eye on the news as Yellowstone has been badly affected by forest fires lately caused by lightening strikes. The Maple fire (45,000 acres), was within 4 miles of West Yellowstone, but the park entrance remained open, while Berry fire (21,000 acres) caused more disruption to tourists closing the road between Yellowstone and Grand Teton for a time, but it has now reopened. We saw signs of the fire as we drove between Yellowstone and Grand Teton along the John D. Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway.

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We reached Grand Teton, stopped for a picnic lunch overlooking Jackson Lake and mountains beyond.

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It was raining as we reached Colter Bay so we watched a presentation about grizzly bears which was really interesting before checking into another retro cabin. This one was originally built in 1922 then moved to its present site and fitted with mod cons in 1956. We were amazed to find free wifi in the public areas as well as a bar with wonderful huckleberry margaritas and Grand Teton Amber Ale. The food was excellent too!

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Our luck with the weather didn’t last – there was rain all night, and this morning and the temperature was down to single figures. Rather than a 6 mile hike in the rain, especially since there were limited views with the Tetons shrouded in cloud, we went hunting!

Firstly we drove down Pilgrim Creek …

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… a favourite hangout for Grizzly Bear 399, the most famous grizzly of The Tetons, with her own Facebook and Twitter accounts! She has learnt that if she brings up her cubs near the roads, they are unlikely to be attacked by male grizzlies. The down side is that they are in more danger from cars and unfortunately her cub born this year was run over. Without a cub to look after, she can travel more freely and we didn’t see her.

Next we went on a moose hunt down Antelope Flats Road to a spot near a creek and willows which they favour, and were lucky to see a bull, cow and calf, at a distance in the trees.

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We also checked out the beaver construction at Schwabacher Road …

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… and the famous Moulton Barn built by a Mormon family in 1912 …

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… but all these pics would have been better with visable Tetons in the background – maybe tomorrow! Finally we headed out of the park to Jackson, home to the National Elk Refuge where some 7,500 elk spend winter. They shed their antlers annually and the Boy Scouts of America have been collecting the antlers under permit since the 1950s, selling them at auction with proceeds going to feed and manage the herd. Some are also used to construct the antler arches than surround the town square.

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We are spending the night at El Ranchero in another cosy motel room with character and cowboy boots nailed up outside! We went for dinner at The Merry Piglets, a Mexican eatery, with cute pigs painted on the walls and delicious food and another marguerita!

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Next morning, we were blessed with a sunshine and a clear sky so we headed back to the park to see the Grand Tetons in all their glory.

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Before we had gone too far, Chris spotted a pair of moose in the sagebrush, who came closer to the road …

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… dithered a bit …

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then crossed right in front of us and headed off for breakfast!

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Revisiting Schwabacher Road, this time we got photos with the mountains reflected in the beaver pool.

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file-75D407D7-B206-40D9-8066-541950381F5C-3203-0000027F1B51EAE2We then hiked a 5 mile trail, through water …

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… aspens …

 

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… sagebrush …

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… and through a puddle to a pair of glacial lakes.

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Taggart Lake had great views across the lake and an even better one from up on the moraine, but Bradley Lake was obscured by trees and we returned in a loop. It was a lovely morning to be out walking and our effort was all the more worthwhile for the great views.

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The morning gone, we had to move on – 2 National Parks down and 6 to go, but first we return to Idaho …

Yellowstone – Old Faithful

file-593B4F36-1825-4AB8-AA6C-CF8B83F69F71-3203-0000027F38C0A5BEThe approach to Old Faithful came as a bit of a surprise, with a flyover, one way system, huge parking lots, three lodges and several shops and eateries.

 

The Old Faithful Inn, built in 1904, is an example of rustic architecture called Parkitecture where local materials are used wherever possible, and is now a listed building with a very impressive lobby. There are lots of decorative features, including these lights.

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Old Faithful Lodge started in 1926 as a main building to serve a tent camp, but the tents were replaced by cabins, and ours has a retro feel with all mod cons, and there’s a general store too.

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Old Faithful erupts faithfully, shooting up to 8,400 gallons of boiling water up to 184 ft high for several minutes roughly every 90 minutes, and we saw the last eruption before the light went – very spectacular – then went for a supper of chilli at the cafeteria. The best we can say of any of the food in the park is that it’s mediocre, but the chilli was actually pretty good.

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file-1860535F-4B54-46E5-8199-F0BFF51ACE42-4715-0000034FEE08986CMorning dawned and we took coffee and buns with us to stake out Great Fountain geyser which was predicted to erupt at 6.30am +- 2hrs.

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Ok, it was a long shot, as it was 8.15, but we arrived and couldn’t tell if it had already erupted or not so we hung around till we’d finished our coffee, and watched White Dome Geyser erupt in the background.

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Afterwards we walked round a trail to the Fountain Paint Pot …

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…nd Red Spouter doing exactly that …

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… and then onto Midway Geyser Basin with the stunning Grand Prismatic Spring …

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… and Biscuit Basin with the Sapphire Pool …

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… Mustard Spring …

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… and Avoca Spring …

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… together with ‘Bobby Sock Trees’ where white silicified parts of the pine trees look like they are wearing 1950s ankle socks.

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We took the 3 mile Mystic Falls Trail which climbed up through the pines to an overlook where we got great views of the valley below with Old Faithful in the far distance …

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… then passed the pretty Mystic Falls on the way down.

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Late afternoon we watched Old Faithful perform again and then moved on to Castle Geyser.

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While we waited, Chris spotted a coyote wandering through the undergrowth … amazing so close to the path.

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Castle erupted for some 20 minutes with water and about the same again with a jet of steam – hugely impressive.

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We’ve been so lucky with the weather – generally bright days with cool starts, warming up to around 25 some days with the sunshine, clouding a bit later and slightly chilly in the breeze, with maybe the odd shower and a couple of rainy nights. Bearing in mind that Yellowstone has seen almost 5 million visitors this year, and during the peak season the roads are like parking lots, I’m pleased we chose now.

We’ve spotted a few of the smaller inhabitants and here is our Critters Corner of Yellowstone including a chipmunk, gopher snake and a couple of squirrels!

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Also, a number of people have lost their hats over the thermal fields – so spot that titfer!

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This geyser watching is serious business. While Old Faithful might be pretty predictable, some of the others need far more patience. We began at Grand and waited an hour or so, but it really was worth it with a huge eruption lasting some 10 minutes, with Turban Geyser joining in to the left …

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… and wandered back passed Morning Glory Pool.

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The highlight of the afternoon was seeing Bill Bison visit the Emerald Pool at Black Sand Basin.

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Next morning, Chris was amazed to see the Michelin man approaching …

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only to discover that the company have installed an new Eco-friendly path made from recycled tyres from the Yellowstone buses. We walked up the new path, opened just this morning …

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and saw our last eruption of Old Faithful before hitting the road.

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We stopped at West Thumb Geyser Basin, overlooking Yellowstone Lake.

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Apparently mountain men told of a geyser along an alpine lake where one could catch a trout, swing the pole around, dip it into the boiling pool, and cook the fish without taking if off the line. Early visitors did this at here at Fishing Cone … but no more!

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We’ve had a great stay in Yellowstone but it’s now time to leave …

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Grand Tetons here we come …

Yellowstone – Canyon

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Watching Yogi and Boo-Boo’s adventures in Jellystone was probably my very first introduction to an American National Park. Most storylines involved Yogi, who thought he was smarter than the average bear, stealing picnics from visitors to the park and Boo-Boo trying to stop him getting in trouble with the ranger.

Yellowstone was the first National Park in America and was established in 1872 to protect the wildlife and natural beauty for all and in 1916 the National Park Service was created, so is celebrating its centennial this year.

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In the early days, visitors were allowed to feed the bears and no trip was complete without a photo taken with the bears, who had learned to beg for food. This was changed in 1970 after numerous injuries caused by close contact, and visitors are now told to keep their distance making it harder to observe bears but safer for bears and visitors.

We drove straight into the park this morning, showing our pass, only to end up in a bit of a traffic jam for an hour or so, mainly just due to number of visitors. Once further into the park, cars spread out and the only slow patches were where wildlife was spotted. Our first sighting was of some elk grazing, and shortly afterwards, a lone bison close to the road.

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Yellowstone has the largest volcanic system in North America and is situated over an active volcano which last erupted around 640,000 years ago leaving the Yellowstone caldera, a volcanic basin some 30 by 45 miles across in the centre of the park. There is hydrothermal activity all over the park, including hot springs, geysers, fumaroles and mud pots, all of which are unpredictable, with new features appearing and others becoming dormant. There are also quite sulphurous, so there is often a bit of a whiff in the air.

We continued along the Madison River till we reached Beryl Spring, one of the hottest springs in Yellowstone, just below boiling point.

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A little further, and we followed a boardwalk circuit for a mile …

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… through lodge pole pines …

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… then on to the Artist Paint Pots, where the red colour is due to iron deposits.

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Norris Geyser Basin is home to the hottest and most acidic of Yellowstone’s hydrothermal areas and we walked round the Back Basin first …

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… and then the Porcelain Basin named for the milky blue pools saturated with silica …

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… and Emerald Spring and Cistern Spring.

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We found a peachy lunch stop just near the Virginia Cascades …

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… then continued to the huge Hayden Valley …

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with the Yellowstone River running through it…

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… in search of wildlife and came across several groups of bison …

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… one of which stopped the traffic while they crossed the road.

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The river runs into the Yellowstone lake, 136sq miles, in fact it looked a bit like the sea!

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Exhausted, we called it a day and checked to our huge western cabin at Canyon Lodge, with a view of the forest beyond.

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We were just bringing our luggage in when Chris noticed movement, and we went and watched a group of elks grazing and the bull elk come and check up on his females.

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We later heard him calling an eerie call staking his claim on the herd. We ate in the dining room at the lodge which was disappointing and slow, so we’ll see if we can find an alternative for tomorrow.

We awoke early to a bright chilly morning with ice on the car and after a great breakfast of pancakes and omelette in the Soda Fountain we were off to explore.

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Everywhere there was mist rising and we went to look at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, some 20 miles long and 1200ft deep in places. Along the South Rim Drive to Artists Point we saw one of the most famous view of the upper falls which drop 109ft over a lip of volcanic rock.

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We hiked along the rim towards Point Sublime and saw some great views of the canyon.

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We met Keith and Julie from Wisconsin at one of the viewpoints and chatted about, hiking, hols, and life … as you do, had another look at Upper Falls with more sun on them before stopping at Uncle Tom’s Point to see Lower Falls.

Having had a bit of exercise, we now headed north over the Dunraven Pass at 8895ft and came across another wildlife traffic jam, this time caused by people stopping by the side of the road where there wasn’t space, hoping to see a family of bears. We were disappointed that so many people ignored park rules which say you can only stop in pullouts and mustn’t block traffic, as much as anything as we felt it wasn’t really fair on the bears! We didn’t stop, and didn’t see a bear (although when we came back in the afternoon, we glimpsed the sight of a bear bottom disappearing into the trees!)

Next up is Tower with some amazing rock formations and with eager eyes, you can spot hikers on the opposite side.

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Mammoth Hot Springs is the National Park Headquarters and home to terraces formed by travertine depositing hot springs.

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The colours in the water are caused by thermophile micro-organisms that thrive here and the formations have names such as Liberty Cap …

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… and Palette Spring.

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We took a drive into the Lamar Valley on the way back in search of wildlife and did see some Bighorn sheep by the road, but the bison were too far away to photograph. We got back and found a bison in the back field, right on our doorstep!

We returned to the Soda Fountain for supper, and actually had a better meal than in the dining room.

Another early start to check out the lookouts along the Northern Rim Drive with the best view of the lower falls and the canyon at Look Out Point.

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Then we continued to the base of Mount Washburn to do the ‘must do’ hike to the top, an ascent of 1,400ft over 3 miles, so nice and steady.

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The views were fabulous from the start, including one of the summit with the fire look-out station on top …

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… then we met up with Jan and Bob from Colorado on one of the switchbacks and continued together. Bob was telling us about the can of bear spray he was carrying on the advise of a motel they had stayed at, and we were kind of thinking the chance of seeing a bear when this was one of the most hiked routes in the park was remote, when round the next bend we saw a bear, a black bear, on the path, snuffling around for pine cones for breakfast!

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We couldn’t believe our luck and while we approached further than we should have, he seemed quite chilled and preoccupied and we followed him along the path.

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We took photos, and after around 15 minutes, he decided to leave the path and head down into the woods so we waited for him to go and walked on.

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Needless to say, it made our day! While the views at the top were stunning, the bear definitely was the highlight of our hike.

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Afterwards we headed to the southern part of the park, stopping to see Gibbons Falls and Firehole Falls …

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hen turning off down Fountain Flat Drive to see some bison quite close to the road. As we watched, a huge bull herded the group towards Nez Perce Creek and encouraged them to cross … just like a scene from a Western movie!

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Next Stop Old Faithful …

Chris & Elaine’s National Parks Bonanza 2016

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In 2013 we set off on our Utah Trail, looking forward to visiting 7 National Parks in 26 days! Our plans were scuppered by the Federal Shutdown which closed all the National Parks for most of our visit, so we ended up rescheduling and seeing other wonders that we would have missed, but no National Parks. So we thought we would have another go … this time doing a loop from Salt Lake City rather than Las Vegas, which enables us to take in Yellowstone and Grand Teton as well as Arches, Canyonlands, Mesa Verde, Grand Canyon, Zion and Bryce. So get your walking boots on and join us …!

Journal Entries

Driving through Idaho

Yellowstone – Canyon

Yellowstone – Old Faithful

Grand Teton

The Road to Bear Lake

Mirror Lake and the Top of Utah

Arches and Canyonlands

Hovenweep & Mesa Verde

Grand Canyon

Antelope Canyon and Rafting the Colorado River

Zion – Utah’s Most Visited Park

Bryce Canyon – Hiking in the Hoodoos

Provo and the Halloween Anniversary Cruise

Salt Lake City and Temple Square

Map