Salt Lake City and Temple Square

file-142E83C4-A895-411D-811F-BC9D0FFF453A-3203-0000027E615B3BA3We stopped in Salt Lake City and headed to Temple Square, the headquarters of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints or Mormons for a quick look. At the centre is the huge Salt Lake Temple begun in 1853 and built over 40 years by pioneers, which we found out more about in the visitor centre as we weren’t allowed in. There were also assembly buildings, a huge office block, a centre for family genealogy and a tabernacle where we heard an organ recital.

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We were shown round Brigham Young’s house, which contained few original items, but was an opportunity for the missionary sisters to tell us about their church. All in all a fairly uninspiring experience. Just round the corner we found the Red Rock Brewery where we had great burgers for lunch then headed to the airport!

Well we have reached the end … with every National Park on our itinerary visited! So what did we think … the Grand Canyon had to be done but is almost too huge, Zion is popular, way too popular for us, Mesa Verde was really interesting and we wouldn’t have missed it, Canyonlands has the cool Green River overlook and the Grand Tetons were just grand. Then it gets more difficult … Arches was the reason for coming in the first place and we loved being able to hike off and find an arch with no crowds … Bryce was truly magestic and very hikeable and Yellowstone was huge and so varied with a canyon, geysers, coloured pools, bison … and at least one black bear because we saw him! Antelope Canyon also needs a special mention for those amazing pink curves and swirls.

Will we come back … maybe … maybe not … but we wouldn’t have missed seeing any bit of it!

Glad you came along with us … and here’s to the next trip!

Provo and the Halloween Anniversary Cruise

file-9693108A-8E82-4F06-BD9D-3A6337B7713C-3203-0000027E62FFC100Originally, our plan was to return to Salt Lake City have a look round, and celebrate our wedding anniversary with a boat trip on the Great Salt Lake. Our wedding reception was held on a boat on the Thames and we have celebrated on the water ever since … no craft too small! We then found out that water levels in the lake have been very low, especially at the end of the season so decided to come to Provo and booked a sunset cruise on a sailboat on Utah Lake instead. Just before we came away, we found out that Utah Lake was closed due to an algal bloom causing health risks … Hopefully all is not lost … read on …

Well here we are in Provo, staying in the lovely Hines Mansion, originally built as a family home in 1895 and now a B&B. Our lodge themed room has brought our trip visiting the national parks full circle.

Breakfast was served round a big kitchen table and everyone else had been to the game the night before, supporting the Brigham Young University football team who won in extra time. Each of the other couples had met at BY, still supported the team and were visiting to see the Homecoming game.

Salt Lake City, just north of here, is most famous for being founded by Brigham Young and being the headquarters of the Mormon church. The centre of town in Provo is dominated by the rather Disneyesque City Center Temple, originally built in 1898 but recently reconstructed having been gutted by fire. If we’d been here earlier in the year, it was briefly open to the public before being dedicated, but now you have to be part of the Mormon church to enter.

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One thing that struck us walking round town is that there are no coffee shops or bars … not surprising since the Mormons want to keep their bodies as temples and not drink alcohol, tea or coffee … mind you excess sugar consumption seems perfectly acceptable if the number of ice cream parlours, dessert establishments and bakeries is anything to go by! Fortunately, with careful choice, picking a restaurant serving alcohol isn’t difficult!

We have a beautiful sunny day today, and so went for a drive into the mountains following the Alpine Scenic Loop. We walked through Bridal Veil Falls park, along the Provo River to the falls …

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… then continued round Mount Timpanogos, enjoying the autumn colour and even another bear!

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Halloween is a big thing here, and lots of houses are decorated, even though there’s still a fortnight to go …

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… and this lot obviously had a craft afternoon planned!

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Fortunately for us and luckily spotted online by my clever husband, the Provo River Halloween Cruise runs daily through October! We turned up just before 7pm, as the sun was setting, pleasantly surprised that it was still over 20 degrees so not exactly chilly for our themed adventure boat ride along the Provo River.

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We paid our $7 each and were shown to our cruise boat, seating around 30 and were pulled up and down the river on a line by our pirate captain.

The round trip took 20 minutes, admiring the lights and the hand-carved jack-o-lanterns, surviving the Pirate Attack and also the scary story told by the boat captain.

Needless to say, we were older than the average audience, but set a good example! We returned to town and went to the Black Sheep, a Native American owned south-western restaurant where we had possibly the best enchiladas of our trip …

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and a little fizz!

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Almost at the end, we head back to Salt Lake City tomorrow …

Bryce Canyon – Hiking in the Hoodoos

file-A8DD175D-09D6-4FE0-910E-E6C687BF15F9-3725-0000030A5E482195Heading north, we passed a sign that said Mystic River Zipline – 10 miles. After a while, I asked Chris what he thought about having a go, and he said it was 7 miles further! We stopped and were rigged out with harnesses and taken up the trail to the first tower with a 800ft line … it was great, really whizzy, and you twist round and see all the lovely autumn colour on the trees covering the hillside! The second tower had a pair of lines so we could race … although I think it was a dead heat … great fun!

Our drive brought us to the last of our revisited destinations, Bryce Canyon National Park, named by early settlers to the area.

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Last time we managed a peek into the park, but didn’t see the amphitheatre which is the main attraction. We arrived in time to walk the rim trail from Bryce Point round to Sunset Point, seeing the hoodoos from different angles and watching the colours change, and although it was cloudy there were sunny bits, and the sun dropped below the rim and finally set.

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Next day we drove to Bryce Point for sunrise, to Chris’s horror getting up at 6.15! It was worth it to see the hoodoos in the amphitheatre light up as the sun rose, although by about 8.30 we were so chilly we went to the historic Bryce Canyon Lodge for breakfast.

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Revitalised, and surprised by how much warmer it had got, we started the steep hike down the Queens Garden Trail from Sunrise Point, following the trail in between the hoodoos. The views were great, a photo round every corner.

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We even caught sight of a mule train taking intrepid visitors round the hoodoos. We joined the Navajo Loop and were surprised how large the wooded area was at the bottom …

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… then started our climb gently at first past Theo’s Hammer and then up some very steep switchbacks to return to the rim at Sunset Point, by which time we had got very warm!

It was such a great hike and we weren’t surprised that it is billed as the best 3-mile hike in all the National Parks!

Later we took the 18 mile scenic drive and stopped at the lookouts on the way and very luckily, Chris spotted this little chap looking for supper, a Utah prairie dog, showing his best side!

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After dinner, Chris had a go at taking photos of stars … mainly so he could justify having bought a stargazers glow-in the-dark t-shirt … and some look pretty good … camera club beware!

Bryce has been a real treat, and despite a pretty basic motel and not much more inspiring food, the park is truly majestic and has stunned us with its beauty.

We could have headed north on the interstate, but chose to take back roads for a way, including another scenic byway, the Nebo Loop …

… stopping for Autumn colour, overlooks and the Bryce-like Devils Kitchen.

Now onward to Salt Lake City … but there is one more stop …

Zion – Utah’s Most Visited Park

file-30C3ADD2-4DBD-476E-B998-4841879A13FC-3203-0000027E8A3ADA3BWe drove a couple of hours to Springdale, pretty much three years and a week after our last visit, when we found out our planned Utah Trail was not going to go to plan! However it’s a great opportunity to return to Under the Eaves B&B and enjoy the warm Southwestern hospitality of our hosts Mark and Joe.

Before we checked in, we hiked the Watchman Trail, a three mile round trip to the red rock platform in the middle of the photo, in front of the Watchman Rock which stands sentinel over the south entrance to Zion. It was very warm and sunny, and nice to wear a pair of shorts again!

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The canyon was called Zion by early Mormon settlers, and chosen as the name for the park over the Paiute name of Mukuntuweap which means ‘Straight Up Land’. At the Grand Canyon, we were at the rim looking down, but at Zion you are at the bottom looking up, unless you hike one of the strenuous paths to the rim. We took the shuttle to the Temple of Sinawava at the end of the park, and took the riverside hike for a mile or so.

 

At this point, the trail, if you can call it that, is called The Narrows and the only way to continue, is to cross the river and continue up the narrowing canyon, eventually walking up the river bed. Outfitters in town will rent you special shoes to get wet in, but at this time of year the water is pretty cold, so we turned about!

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We stopped at several viewpoints and took pics of the huge canyon walls, including one at the Court of the Patriachs where the peaks of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob all loom over 2000m above.

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Next day, we had planned to hike Angel’s Landing, an iconic climb of almost 500m to a viewpoint, including the use of chains towards the end, to pull oneself up the face, but somehow, just didn’t feel in the mood! Instead, we chose a more gentle walk, still with great views …

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… Emerald Pools …

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… then along the river back to town where we saw climbers …

 

 

… The Towers of the virgin and plenty of wildlife.

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We planned a final hike on our way out of Zion, an overlook trail, but the parking area was tiny and full so we had to drive on past some fall colour and the Checkerboard Mesa.

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Zion canyon is spectacular and worth a visit, but it has felt one of the busiest parks as there is less space in which to disperse the visitors, and hiking options are limited. Springdale however, has good restaurants and quirky shops and we wouldn’t have missed staying at Under the Eaves again, where we felt very much at home.

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Next stop, our eighth and final park …

Hovenweep & Mesa Verde

file-60CC066E-85EE-4645-8642-120C17875182-3203-0000027EC82AC676The focus of the next few days is to find out about the Ancestral Pueblo people who started hunting and gathering in the south west 10,000 years ago, and later began to farm the area. Most of the surviving buildings in the area were built in the C13, and then everyone left.

We had a fairly long drive so decided to make it longer, by making a detour to visit Hovenweep, just over the border into our fifth state, Colorado, and 20 miles from anywhere! Hovenweep is a Ute word meaning Deserted Valley, and we spent a couple of hours following the rim trail round Little Ruin Canyon where there are a number of ancestral Puebloan structures.

Many theories attempt to explain the use of the buildings at Hovenweep, particularly the striking towers which might have been celestial observatories, defensive structures, storage facilities, homes or any combination of the above. During our walk, I was surprised by a swift movement on the path and a rattling sound and I don’t know which of us was more surprised – me or the rattlesnake I almost trod on!

Our drive to Cortez took a further hour or so and we are staying at another hand-picked independent motel called Aneth Lodge for three nights. The decor is a little dated, but it’s clean, convenient and friendly! What’s more, it’s right in the centre of town so we can walk to dinner in the evening – to a brewery, a casita and The Farm Bistro for a return visit, where we’ve had the best meal of our trip so far!

Today we are heading to Mesa Verde, which is Spanish for green table, and sits between the Mancos and Montezuma valleys.

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Driving into the park, the Point Lookout looms above.

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We started with the Chaplin Mesa visitor centre which showed an excellent film about the history of those who lived here, their lifestyle and architecture. The museum contained discover artefacts such as pottery and tools and included some dioramas built in the 1930s showing the development of the buildings here.

The most elaborate groups of ruins are the cliff dwellings, built in alcoves with the mesa top above them, dating from C12-13.  Spruce Tree House …

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… and Cliff Palace were closed for conservation works, but we were able to see them from overlooks … looking remarkably like dioramas without the people!

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They contain a variety of buildings used for living and storage together with round kivas set into the floor, which would have been covered by a roof giving a flat courtyard above. These kivas were used as communal living spaces and for ceremonial functions and would have been accessed by a ladder down through the roof. With no written records, much is guesswork with some ideas based on present day Pueblo people who still use kivas for ceremonies.

Next we took a tour of Balcony House, billed as the most adventurous tour, which involved some interesting access arrangements, up ladders, and through small gaps and a tunnel.

All was worth it to see the ruins up close, especially when you consider that the builders had no metal tools and shaped the sandstone blocks with tools made from harder stones.

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Next day we visited Wetherill Mesa, down an even longer and more windy road! We walked to the Step House first, named for the boulder steps to access the dwellings from above (looking rather like a load of rubble to me). There were several pit houses dating from 600 AD, together with one with a reconstructed roof, and it is possible to see how it was these structures that developed into the kiva once houses started to be built above ground.

Later buildings were built at the right of the alcove, similar to what we saw yesterday.

We also went on a ranger led tour of Long House, which contained much the same features we had already seen, but we got to walk round and see them up close.

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There had been much made of why these people ‘suddenly’ chose to build in these alcoves here at Mesa Verde, but ranger Cindy pointed out there were similar buildings all over the mesa top as well – but with water soluble mortar made from mud, these houses have not survived. Maybe with an increase in population, the land on the mesa top was more valuable for planting crops, or maybe they just liked the view, either way, only around 20% of the population lived in these cliff dwellings. As to why they left, the most likely cause was the 20 year drought and over a number of years, the people of Mesa Verde joined thousands of other Ancestral Pueblo people who moved south to New Mexico and Arizona. Today the Hopi of Arizona among many other tribes consider themselves descendants of the builders of Mesa Verde.

Wouldn’t want to miss out the plants and critters … especially as we saw a tarantula today, and this rabbitbrush is everywhere, although most of it has finished flowering so I was lucky to notice this bit.

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Finally, we didn’t need to go to Vegas to see neon lights, as there are a collection here in Cortez.

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Tomorrow we leave Colorado and head into Arizona … and to the Grand Canyon.

Arches and Canyonlands

file-6BE87274-0069-4AC9-8F56-093CAD63FD44-2410-0000022EC38DB088We crossed a wide plain and reached Moab in the afternoon, one of the destinations from our original trail. We are returning to the Inca Inn, where we stayed last visit as it was one of the nicest motels we stayed in and found our room enhanced by a disco shower!

 

Arches is the park that had most inspired us when we saw the PBS series, “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea” which sent us on our Utah Trail in the first place. Last time, we did get to see the fabulous Corona Arch which is outside the park, but are looking forward to seeing quite a few more arches now we can enter the park.

We spent our first sunset at Fiery Furnace, watching the sun turn the rocks redder and redder …

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… and it looked so much richer than when we returned in the middle of the day.

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As we left the park, we saw Balanced Rock and then the sunset.

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Cloud and rain are forecast, but the first morning was fine so we visited the most iconic spots in the park, starting with Courthouse Towers, with The Three Gossips on the left and The Organ on the right.

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Next up, North and South Windows, known together at The Spectacles …

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… together with the strange looking gyroscope that is Double Arch …

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… and yes I was there!

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All these features have names, so here is Turret Arch and then there was desert with stubby trees and cacti.

 

We hiked over slickrock to Delicate Arch – probably the most photographed arch, which features on the Utah numberplate …

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… looked back to see how far we had come …

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… reached a corner …

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… and there it was!

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There were even petroglyphs on the way back.

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By now the temperature had risen to 30 so we took some time out for lunch and a look round the shops in Moab.

We returned later hoping to see the setting sun add extra colour to the park which it did, but then the sun went behind cloud.

Here are Park Avenue with skyscrapers and the whimsical Garden of a Eden.

 

We thought that was it, but we waited and a final flash of light repaid our patient wait and got us a couple of great shots.

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There was rain in the night and next day was grey, with rain predicted, so we drove to the far end of Arches park to see some of the other arches in the Devil’s Garden. The hike to Landscape Arch, which seemed the most delicate of all the arches we saw, was busy …

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… and even the more challenging extension attracted a fair few intrepid souls, but we chose to turn back here.

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Instead we took another path and almost had the trail to ourselves which was far nicer, giving views at every turn starting with Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch …

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… views …

 

 

… then Tapestry Arch …

 

… Broken Arch and a skyline Arch.

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The last arch of the day was Sand Dune Arch but more interestingly the trail that led there went through a narrow slot canyon where we met Vicky and Stuart from Pennsylvania and stood chatting about travels and photos.

 

 

 

Today we headed off to Island in the Sky in Canyonlands National Park.

 

This mesa extends to a point with the Green River on one side and the Colorado River on the other. From Shafer Overlook, we saw the Shafer Trail, once a rugged track, but since the 1950s Uranium Boom, widens to take mining trucks.

 

We took a short trail to Mesa Arch …

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… and saw the two river canyons highlighted by the white rim of limestone 1000ft below.

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We had a bit of a hike to Grand View at the point of the Mesa where we saw the Green River one side …

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… and the Colorado River the other.

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We saw the rain coming our way …

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and were caught by a heavy thunderstorm, without our waterproofs, and sheltered under a rocky overhang till it stopped. Afterwards, we didn’t fancy climbing the wet slickrock to the end of the trail, and instead returned to dry out.

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Its not just rocks and sand here, there are plenty of plants like Utah Juniper and Narrowleaf Yucca …

 

… Mormon Teaplant and Pinyon Pine …

 

and even a deer and a cottontail bunny!

 

Since we have been travelling together, this is the first time we have returned to the same town, stayed in the same place and eaten in a couple of the same restaurants, and we have been lucky that they were all as good as we remembered. Also, with the parks being open we’ve had plenty to see that is new.

Mirror Lake and the Top of Utah

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Today we continued south into Utah, along straight roads and through sagebrush …

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… and passed the Smallest Store in Utah!

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Then back into Wyoming (just long enough to get stocked up with essentials as the tax in Utah is quite high) …

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…and to stop at the Evanston Ranger Station (where Ambera was really helpful, telling us where was best to stop along the way).

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Then we were back in Utah and my first thought when I saw the Utah sign was that we were visiting dry, red, rocky places and the sign showed snow …

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… but as we got closer to the Uinta Mountains, we saw they had a white dusting.

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We followed the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway …

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stopping to take photos and stretch our legs at Mirror Lake on the way.

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The byway crosses Bald Mountain Pass at an altitude of 10,715 ft and is the highest paved road in Utah.

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We passed Provo falls and some fall colour as we descended.

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We stopped for the night in Heber City, another town founded by Mormons, and stayed at the quaint Swiss Alps Inn and had an Italian meal at Vito’s.

Next day, our route began with the Wolf Creek Highway, which may not be an official scenic byway, but was scenic nonetheless! We went up, passed sheep, through the Uinta National Forest, passed Mill Hollow Reservoir and over a high pass and into Indian Canyon.

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Once we came down the other side, the scenery changed and we were approaching our next destination … Moab.

Chris & Elaine’s National Parks Bonanza 2016

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In 2013 we set off on our Utah Trail, looking forward to visiting 7 National Parks in 26 days! Our plans were scuppered by the Federal Shutdown which closed all the National Parks for most of our visit, so we ended up rescheduling and seeing other wonders that we would have missed, but no National Parks. So we thought we would have another go … this time doing a loop from Salt Lake City rather than Las Vegas, which enables us to take in Yellowstone and Grand Teton as well as Arches, Canyonlands, Mesa Verde, Grand Canyon, Zion and Bryce. So get your walking boots on and join us …!

Journal Entries

Driving through Idaho

Yellowstone – Canyon

Yellowstone – Old Faithful

Grand Teton

The Road to Bear Lake

Mirror Lake and the Top of Utah

Arches and Canyonlands

Hovenweep & Mesa Verde

Grand Canyon

Antelope Canyon and Rafting the Colorado River

Zion – Utah’s Most Visited Park

Bryce Canyon – Hiking in the Hoodoos

Provo and the Halloween Anniversary Cruise

Salt Lake City and Temple Square

Map

Goosenecks … Natural Bridges … Monument Valley

0ADD7BA4-A67F-4F37-A752-0EB9A8C40580On leaving Cortez, we drove along the McElmo Canyon, where we found Sutcliffe Vineyards. We met Joe the winemaker, and David the nephew of the owner who told us about the winery and how the canyon has been used for growing produce since the Navajo grew peach trees there. He let us sample a couple of wines … only a sip of each as it was barely 11am … and we ended up choosing to give a home to a bottle of Merlot.

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We passed the sign to Hovenweep National Monument then continued on to Bluff where we stopped at the Navajo Twin Rocks, looked round the trading post and shared a portion of Navajo fry bread taco, which was a disc of ciabatta type bread which had been fried then covered with chilli beans, cheese and salad, and served with sour cream and salsa. It seems to be an example of popular local fusion cuisine but piles on the calories!

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Fort Bluff was just down the road and was having a dedication ceremony for their new visitor centre built to celebrate and relate the story of The Mormon families who established a wagon road across the most inhospitable terrain in Utah to found the town of Bluff in 1880. They have reconstructed some of the family cabins in the same layout as the original fort and furnished them with period memorabilia. Sherri, Grace and Jacqueline kindly posed for a photo.1436E868-1A8D-46E7-BD0D-E8802B7160CB85F31B53-E91A-40FE-BC04-4D2C0D60C6E02F2C8CE2-8040-4D8F-B9C8-1B4BEE033BAB7031A0B5-7282-4D49-B9BD-23BDE24B1632We drove on towards Mexican Hat, and stopped off at Gooseneck State Park which has one of the most striking and impressive examples of an entrenched river meander in the USA. The San Juan river twists and turns below, while higher up there are steps in the canyon wall as softer layers erode. We even saw some rafts floating by … they enter the water at Mexican Hat then take 5 or 6 days to cover 50 or so miles to Lake Powell, camping on sandy spits along the way.

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We arrived at the Valley of the Gods B&B, the only dwelling for miles, and were welcomed by Claire and Gary our hosts.

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The colour of the canyon walls as the sun set was stunning and the stars were amazingly plentiful and bright when we returned from dinner. We awoke in time to see the sun rise and had a fabulous breakfast with the other 6 guests from all over the USA. Living in the desert may be difficult … they have to truck in their water … but it’s easy to see the appeal when you look around and hear the quiet. They have made their home as green as possible, with solar and wind power, and even have a solar oven that works like a Dutch oven with the sun instead of the coals as fuel!

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This humpbacked flute player represents Kokopelli, a mischievous trickster or spirit of music and also a symbol of fertility and is a popular local image throughout the south west coming from Native American mythology.

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Our first challenge of the day was to negotiate the Moki Dugway, a 3 mile graded dirt switchback road carved into the face of the cliff edge of Cedar Mesa, winding 1,200 ft to the top. It was constructed in the 1950s so lorries could haul ore from the Happy Jack Mine on Cedar Mesa to the mill near Mexican Hat, and still provides breathtaking views of the Valley of the Gods below.

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Once at the top, quite safely, we continued to Natural Bridges, which has just been re-opened together with several Utah National Parks following the Federal Shutdown, as they are being funded by the State.

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We drove round the 9 mile scenic loop, stopping to hike Sipapu Bridge which was quite energetic with a climb back of 500ft and several ladders.

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We also saw some Pueblo ruins, just viewed Kachina Bridge from the lookout …

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… then walked a short way to see the final Owachomo Bridge.

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On the way back we drove past the B&B, into the Valley of the Gods, where a 17 mile gravel road passes between the sandstone monoliths and pinnacles. So with Indian flute and drum Mesa tunes playing and the afternoon sun burnishing the rocks red we were the only people in the valley and it was an amazing experience. In Navajo, to be “in Hozho” is to be at one with and a part of the world around you … and I guess we were.

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We ended the day with another drive up the Moki Dugway to Muley Point at sunset, and saw Misty Goosenecks below and Monument Valley in the distance, but a rather cloudy sunset.

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We passed the Mexican Hat as we left Mexican Hat …

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… and had a great approach to Monument Valley, the backdrop for endless movies, and home to numerous atmospheric buttes.

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We were driven into the valley by Fergie of Blackwater Tours and he told us how he and his brother had helped build the visitor centre and also helped the Lone Ranger film crew when it got stuck on the road!

F8D1B312-95FD-4673-9BBE-762C91A6D8B4509EE390-AACC-42B9-9524-A6902C839AE0D98922FC-7105-4905-9475-1E608FCD6151Chris got up in the saddle for a photo opportunity he couldn’t miss at John Ford Point!

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With Chris’s John Wayne fixation, we had to visit Captain Nathan Brittle’s Cabin, which is still part of Gouldings Trading Post and featured in ‘She Wore a Yellow Ribbon’ from 1949. There is also a museum with some old production photos that were interesting and here are some then and now comparisons …

The cabin …48DCC60F-E2F1-4A01-8FDD-451E5C3E720C308B7B22-D754-4DDF-A41D-257857D1E7B4

 

The Mittens …

 

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… and The Totem Pole …

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Anyway, time to say goodbye to Utah … and hello Arizona … Phoenix here we come!

Ute Mountain Tribal Park … Best Bit Rained Off

D9B2671B-B74F-42D5-8C28-65A6C39373F5The original plan was to visit Mesa Verde NP, but it is too far from Cortez to even photograph the sign! Instead we had an early start and made our way to the Ute Mountain Tribal Park. A bit chilly here in Cortez, at some 6,200ft, and will probably be the coldest day of our trip. We had a nice chat on the bus with Faith and Nancy who come from Sante Fe and were staying next door to us in the motel.

The Ancestral Pueblo arrived in the Mancos Valley about 500 AD and hunted and farmed, building stone dwellings with stone tools and life was good for many centuries until for no certain reason they left. By the end of the 13th century, the canyons and mesas were empty of human life, and later the Ute Weeminuche came to the valley to hunt and spend winters.

Today Ute Mountain is homeland to the Weeminuche and we were hoping to visit four Pueblo canyon cliff dwellings, accessed by ladders, but the rain made the area inaccessible. Instead we had to make do with a shorter tour. Our guide was half Ute and half Cheyenne and when he said his name was Ricky Hayes, Chris introduced himself as a long lost relative, which got a laugh from the group.

Ricky told us about both the Pueblo and Ute peoples, and showed us a granary, pot shards, a solstice marker that works a bit like a sundial, various rock art and remains of a Pueblo kiva or ritual meeting room … all in all not nearly as exciting as we had expected, or of course Mesa Verde would have been!BD55CA2C-5005-4FF2-901F-0108A8B0CD23767CCC38-069F-4E20-9EE4-2329F4E451E9D9B2671B-B74F-42D5-8C28-65A6C39373F5

 

The high point was a tune on his pink recorder! F1608223-0D1A-46CB-BD7A-263B3FAA8C4AWe took a quick look at Four Corners Monument, as it was quite close, and is the only place in the USA where four states meet … Utah, Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico … so now our tally of visited states is up to 5!

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The sunset was lovely at the White Eagle Inn, then we went off for a fabulous meal at the Farm Bistro in town.   186F791B-9D3E-47DB-8612-75508E4104F2208F0B08-B767-444F-91CB-71D4094DCF3BBreakfast was at the Silver Bean, an Airstream which was bought from a pawn shop and converted 14 years ago into a coffee shop. The girls are known locally as The Bean Girls, and we had marvellous coffee and breakfast burritos.

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Next we are returning to Utah …