Mirror Lake and the Top of Utah

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Today we continued south into Utah, along straight roads and through sagebrush …

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… and passed the Smallest Store in Utah!

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Then back into Wyoming (just long enough to get stocked up with essentials as the tax in Utah is quite high) …

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…and to stop at the Evanston Ranger Station (where Ambera was really helpful, telling us where was best to stop along the way).

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Then we were back in Utah and my first thought when I saw the Utah sign was that we were visiting dry, red, rocky places and the sign showed snow …

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… but as we got closer to the Uinta Mountains, we saw they had a white dusting.

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We followed the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway …

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stopping to take photos and stretch our legs at Mirror Lake on the way.

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The byway crosses Bald Mountain Pass at an altitude of 10,715 ft and is the highest paved road in Utah.

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We passed Provo falls and some fall colour as we descended.

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We stopped for the night in Heber City, another town founded by Mormons, and stayed at the quaint Swiss Alps Inn and had an Italian meal at Vito’s.

Next day, our route began with the Wolf Creek Highway, which may not be an official scenic byway, but was scenic nonetheless! We went up, passed sheep, through the Uinta National Forest, passed Mill Hollow Reservoir and over a high pass and into Indian Canyon.

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Once we came down the other side, the scenery changed and we were approaching our next destination … Moab.

The Road to Bear Lake

file-61E4BD1F-71EA-4A88-9007-836C7D0571A1-3203-0000027F14AF30D3The whole drive south from Jackson to Bear Lake was stunning. To begin with the road followed the Snake River as it wound its way south through a mountain pass. From Alpine to Afton the road ran through a wide valley of grazing land spotted with farmsteads. Afton is the home of the world’s largest arch made of elk antlers creating an archway that covers the entire road and we had to stop for a picture. We thought we had left the geysers behind in Yellowstone, but blow me down, there was one in a field! We passed a horsewoman on a ridge, and a selection of rickety old buildings before picking up part of the Oregon Trail into Bear Lake. We took a few photos, but with a speed limit of 65 and a rather dodgy looking hard shoulder, photo ops were few and far between, but trust us, it was a great drive!

Bear Lake is huge, in fact I saw it from the air when we arrived. It is a brilliant blue from the calcium carbonate deposits and the top half is in Idaho where we are stopping for the night, and when we reach the lower half, we will have returned to Utah.

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We are staying at the Bluebird Inn B&B, in a lovely white clapperboard house, in the Bear Room, filled with bearlike touches.

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We had a lovely meal in the golf club nearby, with a great view of Bear Lake as the sun set.

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All the guests sat together for a delicious breakfast of frittata and homegrown fried potatoes prepared by Cindy. It was lovely chatting to Marilyn and Linda, sisters who were visiting their brother and we swapped tales of life and travels.

Bear Lake is billed as ‘home of the raspberry shake’ as the area was well known for its raspberry production, although following a virus the berry business was largely squashed, but we were lucky to have raspberry preserve on our buttermilk biscuits as we were up and out too early for the milkshake bar to be open.

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A last shot of the lake and we left it behind us.

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Next stop … The Swiss Alps!

Grand Teton


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We were keeping our eye on the news as Yellowstone has been badly affected by forest fires lately caused by lightening strikes. The Maple fire (45,000 acres), was within 4 miles of West Yellowstone, but the park entrance remained open, while Berry fire (21,000 acres) caused more disruption to tourists closing the road between Yellowstone and Grand Teton for a time, but it has now reopened. We saw signs of the fire as we drove between Yellowstone and Grand Teton along the John D. Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway.

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We reached Grand Teton, stopped for a picnic lunch overlooking Jackson Lake and mountains beyond.

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It was raining as we reached Colter Bay so we watched a presentation about grizzly bears which was really interesting before checking into another retro cabin. This one was originally built in 1922 then moved to its present site and fitted with mod cons in 1956. We were amazed to find free wifi in the public areas as well as a bar with wonderful huckleberry margaritas and Grand Teton Amber Ale. The food was excellent too!

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Our luck with the weather didn’t last – there was rain all night, and this morning and the temperature was down to single figures. Rather than a 6 mile hike in the rain, especially since there were limited views with the Tetons shrouded in cloud, we went hunting!

Firstly we drove down Pilgrim Creek …

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… a favourite hangout for Grizzly Bear 399, the most famous grizzly of The Tetons, with her own Facebook and Twitter accounts! She has learnt that if she brings up her cubs near the roads, they are unlikely to be attacked by male grizzlies. The down side is that they are in more danger from cars and unfortunately her cub born this year was run over. Without a cub to look after, she can travel more freely and we didn’t see her.

Next we went on a moose hunt down Antelope Flats Road to a spot near a creek and willows which they favour, and were lucky to see a bull, cow and calf, at a distance in the trees.

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We also checked out the beaver construction at Schwabacher Road …

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… and the famous Moulton Barn built by a Mormon family in 1912 …

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… but all these pics would have been better with visable Tetons in the background – maybe tomorrow! Finally we headed out of the park to Jackson, home to the National Elk Refuge where some 7,500 elk spend winter. They shed their antlers annually and the Boy Scouts of America have been collecting the antlers under permit since the 1950s, selling them at auction with proceeds going to feed and manage the herd. Some are also used to construct the antler arches than surround the town square.

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We are spending the night at El Ranchero in another cosy motel room with character and cowboy boots nailed up outside! We went for dinner at The Merry Piglets, a Mexican eatery, with cute pigs painted on the walls and delicious food and another marguerita!

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Next morning, we were blessed with a sunshine and a clear sky so we headed back to the park to see the Grand Tetons in all their glory.

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Before we had gone too far, Chris spotted a pair of moose in the sagebrush, who came closer to the road …

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… dithered a bit …

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then crossed right in front of us and headed off for breakfast!

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Revisiting Schwabacher Road, this time we got photos with the mountains reflected in the beaver pool.

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file-75D407D7-B206-40D9-8066-541950381F5C-3203-0000027F1B51EAE2We then hiked a 5 mile trail, through water …

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… aspens …

 

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… sagebrush …

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… and through a puddle to a pair of glacial lakes.

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Taggart Lake had great views across the lake and an even better one from up on the moraine, but Bradley Lake was obscured by trees and we returned in a loop. It was a lovely morning to be out walking and our effort was all the more worthwhile for the great views.

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The morning gone, we had to move on – 2 National Parks down and 6 to go, but first we return to Idaho …

Yellowstone – Old Faithful

file-593B4F36-1825-4AB8-AA6C-CF8B83F69F71-3203-0000027F38C0A5BEThe approach to Old Faithful came as a bit of a surprise, with a flyover, one way system, huge parking lots, three lodges and several shops and eateries.

 

The Old Faithful Inn, built in 1904, is an example of rustic architecture called Parkitecture where local materials are used wherever possible, and is now a listed building with a very impressive lobby. There are lots of decorative features, including these lights.

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Old Faithful Lodge started in 1926 as a main building to serve a tent camp, but the tents were replaced by cabins, and ours has a retro feel with all mod cons, and there’s a general store too.

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Old Faithful erupts faithfully, shooting up to 8,400 gallons of boiling water up to 184 ft high for several minutes roughly every 90 minutes, and we saw the last eruption before the light went – very spectacular – then went for a supper of chilli at the cafeteria. The best we can say of any of the food in the park is that it’s mediocre, but the chilli was actually pretty good.

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file-1860535F-4B54-46E5-8199-F0BFF51ACE42-4715-0000034FEE08986CMorning dawned and we took coffee and buns with us to stake out Great Fountain geyser which was predicted to erupt at 6.30am +- 2hrs.

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Ok, it was a long shot, as it was 8.15, but we arrived and couldn’t tell if it had already erupted or not so we hung around till we’d finished our coffee, and watched White Dome Geyser erupt in the background.

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Afterwards we walked round a trail to the Fountain Paint Pot …

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…nd Red Spouter doing exactly that …

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… and then onto Midway Geyser Basin with the stunning Grand Prismatic Spring …

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… and Biscuit Basin with the Sapphire Pool …

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… Mustard Spring …

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… and Avoca Spring …

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… together with ‘Bobby Sock Trees’ where white silicified parts of the pine trees look like they are wearing 1950s ankle socks.

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We took the 3 mile Mystic Falls Trail which climbed up through the pines to an overlook where we got great views of the valley below with Old Faithful in the far distance …

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… then passed the pretty Mystic Falls on the way down.

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Late afternoon we watched Old Faithful perform again and then moved on to Castle Geyser.

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While we waited, Chris spotted a coyote wandering through the undergrowth … amazing so close to the path.

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Castle erupted for some 20 minutes with water and about the same again with a jet of steam – hugely impressive.

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We’ve been so lucky with the weather – generally bright days with cool starts, warming up to around 25 some days with the sunshine, clouding a bit later and slightly chilly in the breeze, with maybe the odd shower and a couple of rainy nights. Bearing in mind that Yellowstone has seen almost 5 million visitors this year, and during the peak season the roads are like parking lots, I’m pleased we chose now.

We’ve spotted a few of the smaller inhabitants and here is our Critters Corner of Yellowstone including a chipmunk, gopher snake and a couple of squirrels!

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Also, a number of people have lost their hats over the thermal fields – so spot that titfer!

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This geyser watching is serious business. While Old Faithful might be pretty predictable, some of the others need far more patience. We began at Grand and waited an hour or so, but it really was worth it with a huge eruption lasting some 10 minutes, with Turban Geyser joining in to the left …

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… and wandered back passed Morning Glory Pool.

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The highlight of the afternoon was seeing Bill Bison visit the Emerald Pool at Black Sand Basin.

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Next morning, Chris was amazed to see the Michelin man approaching …

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only to discover that the company have installed an new Eco-friendly path made from recycled tyres from the Yellowstone buses. We walked up the new path, opened just this morning …

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and saw our last eruption of Old Faithful before hitting the road.

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We stopped at West Thumb Geyser Basin, overlooking Yellowstone Lake.

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Apparently mountain men told of a geyser along an alpine lake where one could catch a trout, swing the pole around, dip it into the boiling pool, and cook the fish without taking if off the line. Early visitors did this at here at Fishing Cone … but no more!

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We’ve had a great stay in Yellowstone but it’s now time to leave …

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Grand Tetons here we come …

Yellowstone – Canyon

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Watching Yogi and Boo-Boo’s adventures in Jellystone was probably my very first introduction to an American National Park. Most storylines involved Yogi, who thought he was smarter than the average bear, stealing picnics from visitors to the park and Boo-Boo trying to stop him getting in trouble with the ranger.

Yellowstone was the first National Park in America and was established in 1872 to protect the wildlife and natural beauty for all and in 1916 the National Park Service was created, so is celebrating its centennial this year.

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In the early days, visitors were allowed to feed the bears and no trip was complete without a photo taken with the bears, who had learned to beg for food. This was changed in 1970 after numerous injuries caused by close contact, and visitors are now told to keep their distance making it harder to observe bears but safer for bears and visitors.

We drove straight into the park this morning, showing our pass, only to end up in a bit of a traffic jam for an hour or so, mainly just due to number of visitors. Once further into the park, cars spread out and the only slow patches were where wildlife was spotted. Our first sighting was of some elk grazing, and shortly afterwards, a lone bison close to the road.

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Yellowstone has the largest volcanic system in North America and is situated over an active volcano which last erupted around 640,000 years ago leaving the Yellowstone caldera, a volcanic basin some 30 by 45 miles across in the centre of the park. There is hydrothermal activity all over the park, including hot springs, geysers, fumaroles and mud pots, all of which are unpredictable, with new features appearing and others becoming dormant. There are also quite sulphurous, so there is often a bit of a whiff in the air.

We continued along the Madison River till we reached Beryl Spring, one of the hottest springs in Yellowstone, just below boiling point.

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A little further, and we followed a boardwalk circuit for a mile …

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… through lodge pole pines …

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… then on to the Artist Paint Pots, where the red colour is due to iron deposits.

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Norris Geyser Basin is home to the hottest and most acidic of Yellowstone’s hydrothermal areas and we walked round the Back Basin first …

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… and then the Porcelain Basin named for the milky blue pools saturated with silica …

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… and Emerald Spring and Cistern Spring.

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We found a peachy lunch stop just near the Virginia Cascades …

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… then continued to the huge Hayden Valley …

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with the Yellowstone River running through it…

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… in search of wildlife and came across several groups of bison …

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… one of which stopped the traffic while they crossed the road.

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The river runs into the Yellowstone lake, 136sq miles, in fact it looked a bit like the sea!

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Exhausted, we called it a day and checked to our huge western cabin at Canyon Lodge, with a view of the forest beyond.

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We were just bringing our luggage in when Chris noticed movement, and we went and watched a group of elks grazing and the bull elk come and check up on his females.

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We later heard him calling an eerie call staking his claim on the herd. We ate in the dining room at the lodge which was disappointing and slow, so we’ll see if we can find an alternative for tomorrow.

We awoke early to a bright chilly morning with ice on the car and after a great breakfast of pancakes and omelette in the Soda Fountain we were off to explore.

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Everywhere there was mist rising and we went to look at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, some 20 miles long and 1200ft deep in places. Along the South Rim Drive to Artists Point we saw one of the most famous view of the upper falls which drop 109ft over a lip of volcanic rock.

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We hiked along the rim towards Point Sublime and saw some great views of the canyon.

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We met Keith and Julie from Wisconsin at one of the viewpoints and chatted about, hiking, hols, and life … as you do, had another look at Upper Falls with more sun on them before stopping at Uncle Tom’s Point to see Lower Falls.

Having had a bit of exercise, we now headed north over the Dunraven Pass at 8895ft and came across another wildlife traffic jam, this time caused by people stopping by the side of the road where there wasn’t space, hoping to see a family of bears. We were disappointed that so many people ignored park rules which say you can only stop in pullouts and mustn’t block traffic, as much as anything as we felt it wasn’t really fair on the bears! We didn’t stop, and didn’t see a bear (although when we came back in the afternoon, we glimpsed the sight of a bear bottom disappearing into the trees!)

Next up is Tower with some amazing rock formations and with eager eyes, you can spot hikers on the opposite side.

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Mammoth Hot Springs is the National Park Headquarters and home to terraces formed by travertine depositing hot springs.

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The colours in the water are caused by thermophile micro-organisms that thrive here and the formations have names such as Liberty Cap …

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… and Palette Spring.

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We took a drive into the Lamar Valley on the way back in search of wildlife and did see some Bighorn sheep by the road, but the bison were too far away to photograph. We got back and found a bison in the back field, right on our doorstep!

We returned to the Soda Fountain for supper, and actually had a better meal than in the dining room.

Another early start to check out the lookouts along the Northern Rim Drive with the best view of the lower falls and the canyon at Look Out Point.

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Then we continued to the base of Mount Washburn to do the ‘must do’ hike to the top, an ascent of 1,400ft over 3 miles, so nice and steady.

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The views were fabulous from the start, including one of the summit with the fire look-out station on top …

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… then we met up with Jan and Bob from Colorado on one of the switchbacks and continued together. Bob was telling us about the can of bear spray he was carrying on the advise of a motel they had stayed at, and we were kind of thinking the chance of seeing a bear when this was one of the most hiked routes in the park was remote, when round the next bend we saw a bear, a black bear, on the path, snuffling around for pine cones for breakfast!

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We couldn’t believe our luck and while we approached further than we should have, he seemed quite chilled and preoccupied and we followed him along the path.

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We took photos, and after around 15 minutes, he decided to leave the path and head down into the woods so we waited for him to go and walked on.

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Needless to say, it made our day! While the views at the top were stunning, the bear definitely was the highlight of our hike.

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Afterwards we headed to the southern part of the park, stopping to see Gibbons Falls and Firehole Falls …

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hen turning off down Fountain Flat Drive to see some bison quite close to the road. As we watched, a huge bull herded the group towards Nez Perce Creek and encouraged them to cross … just like a scene from a Western movie!

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Next Stop Old Faithful …

Driving through Idaho

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We arrived in Salt Lake City after a 10 hour flight, picked up our car and stayed in an airport hotel for the night.

This morning we hit the road driving north and and by 10.30 we had left Utah and entered Idaho. The I-15 went for miles through a wide valley with hills either side and a big sky above and we pulled up at a rest stop to take some pictures, including some pretty Black-eyed Susans that seem to grow everywhere.

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Next stop was the Museum of Clean in Pocatello, founded by a chap who started his own cleaning company when he left school, then started collecting everything and anything connected with cleaning and had to find somewhere to put it! Not sure quite what to expect, we left the interstate for a look and were greeted by none other than Mr Clean himself, Don Aslett, who gave us a personal tour with stories about many of the quirky items.

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We even met Mr Declutter and The Janitor!

Idaho grows a third of the potatoes grown in the US so it comes as no real surprise to find that Blackfoot is the home of the world famous Idaho Potato Museum. It made a perfect lunch stop and gave us a chance to try Idaho potatoes, both baked and chipped! We learnt a bit about modern potato production, took a photo of their giant spud and were sent on our way with a gift of Taters for Out-of-Staters – a box of dehydrated gratin we can try at home!

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After another hour or so, having caught a glimpse of the Grand Tetons in the distance …

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we took a detour away from the interstate along the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway …

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… a 30 mile loop through the Targhee National Forest with a chance to stretch our legs by walking to the waterfalls fed by the Snake River.

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We stopped first at the lower falls …

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… and then the more impressive upper falls where a huge curtain of water as tall as a 10-storey building crashes downwards.

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As we returned to the car, we found a pink slip on the windshield saying we should have paid $5 to park, and when we went to do so, realised if we bought our annual National Parks pass now, it would include this stop, so we now have our America the Beautiful pass, with a polar bear on the front, for a very reasonable $80.

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We rejoined the interstate as it passed through the community of Island Park, with the longest Main Street in the US at 33 miles and while this might suggest a huge town, in fact there were very few buildings, just strung out a jolly long way!

Not much further and we headed into our third state, Montana …

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but we will only be here for around 10 miles, so all I can really tell you is that it is home to West Yellowstone, where we are staying tonight. We chose the locally owned One Horse Motel rather than one of the chains of motels with identical outlets everywhere. They promised, a friendly howdy, cozy rooms and good value which they certainly delivered on.

For dinner, we walked a couple of blocks to Bulwinkles Saloon, a busy family-run place with a huge menu and just as huge portions, so we left full of pasta and buffalo meatloaf.

Next stop Yellowstone National Park!

Chris & Elaine’s National Parks Bonanza 2016

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In 2013 we set off on our Utah Trail, looking forward to visiting 7 National Parks in 26 days! Our plans were scuppered by the Federal Shutdown which closed all the National Parks for most of our visit, so we ended up rescheduling and seeing other wonders that we would have missed, but no National Parks. So we thought we would have another go … this time doing a loop from Salt Lake City rather than Las Vegas, which enables us to take in Yellowstone and Grand Teton as well as Arches, Canyonlands, Mesa Verde, Grand Canyon, Zion and Bryce. So get your walking boots on and join us …!

Journal Entries

Driving through Idaho

Yellowstone – Canyon

Yellowstone – Old Faithful

Grand Teton

The Road to Bear Lake

Mirror Lake and the Top of Utah

Arches and Canyonlands

Hovenweep & Mesa Verde

Grand Canyon

Antelope Canyon and Rafting the Colorado River

Zion – Utah’s Most Visited Park

Bryce Canyon – Hiking in the Hoodoos

Provo and the Halloween Anniversary Cruise

Salt Lake City and Temple Square

Map

There’s More to Los Angeles than Theme Parks!

A05FDEDD-E290-42B5-A44E-BC37D80FE636In the early days of film, it was rumoured that a budding star only had to parade around the junction of Hollywood and Vine to be spotted by the film directors who drank coffee in restaurants here. Turning off the Boulevard, we saw the famous Hollywood sign high on the hills above and passed the iconic Capitol Records Tower, resembling a stack of 45rpm records, and actually visible from our bathroom window.

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We are staying right in the middle of all this nostalgia at The Hotel Hollywood where the famous have stayed including James Dean and Marilyn herself.

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Today, the pavement is inlaid with metallic stars …

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… celebrating the famous and also in truth the not so famous and even cartoon characters.

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Following the Walk of Fame along Hollywood Boulevard, we passed cafes and bars, souvenir shops and touts offering tours of star’s homes and movie locations. The gems are the remaining theatres, richly decorated in over the top styles, including The Egyptian Theatre which hosted the very first Hollywood Premier – Robin Hood in 1922 …

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… and the El Capitan with a south-sea interior, although we would have needed to go to see the new Cinderella film to gain entry!

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The Chinese Theatre was the most prestigious spot for a premiere for many years and the collection of hand and foot prints in the courtyard began with Douglas Fairbanks Sr and Mary Pickford and still continues today.

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5718C419-48C0-48C2-ADD3-27DC619627CCFBAE8AF9-8E63-43C7-86E6-6317FB32159C6BBE5C2D-F77B-470F-8460-6DD6CD65E11CThe Kodak Theatre, now renamed the Dolby has hosted the Academy Awards since 2002 and is surrounded by the Babylonian columns and elephants of a shopping centre.

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Hollywood & Vine Metro station has film reels on the ceiling and is adorned with palm trees.

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We took an easy 30 minute trip to Downtown LA, arriving at the Mission-style Union Station built in the 1930s.

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Next a step back in time to the founding of LA as El Pueblo de Los Angeles when 44 settlers of Native American, African and European heritage travelled 1000 miles from Mexico to establish a farming community here in 1871. In the 1920s the last few building were saved from demolition and today the Plaza and Olvera Street remain as a memorial to the city’s roots.

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Fortified with the local speciality of Taquitos with avocado sauce, we headed to City Hall, where we took the lifts to the top for a great views over the city.

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C71D883D-22B0-4B1C-891D-D1EBB7CAF62BWe also explored the Financial district of Bunker Hill, Central Library and the Grand Central Market, together with the Angels Flight Railway …

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… the stunning Bradbury Building atrium famous from Blade Runner …

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…  and had a restorative cup of tea in the very fancy Biltmore Hotel.

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As we left we bumped into a film crew in Pershing Square, shooting a fight scene for a Chinese film and chatted to a couple of the production team and the stunt double for one of the actors.

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We also passed another crew filming inside a bar, with all their paraphernalia lining the street outside.

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The other thing we saw on the streets and couldn’t ignore was the huge number of homeless people living rough. Apparently they aren’t moved on here, unlike other places in the US, and with the mild climate and lots of tourists passing through with possibly a little cash to spare, Los Angeles has become a magnet, some being quite inventive with a proper little camp set-up, including water supply.

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The star though was The Walt Disney Concert Hall, designed by Frank Gehry, with the stainless steel cladding looking fabulous against the blue sky.

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We returned in the evening for a Mozart chamber concert and the inside was just as stunning, with acoustics enabling you to hear a pin drop!

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One evening, going out to eat, the road was closed and we saw the odd cowboy, horse and stock transport with what looked like cattle inside. We found out we had just missed the World Movie Premiere for The Longest Ride at the Chinese Theatre, a film by Nicolas Sparks and starring Alan Alda among others, available to see in a movie theatre near you soon!

After dark, there is sparkle but some of it shows the other side of town …

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Avoiding the Hollywood Tours, we cruised down Sunset Strip, by public bus in the daytime, then through Beverley Hills and Bel Air too! Our destination was The Getty Centre, a museum and research complex for the vast art collection of oil mogul J Paul Getty, designed by Richard Meier. The interconnecting buildings are separated by courtyards and gardens with fabulous views towards the hills and LA. Constructed of stainless steel and concrete, the walls are clad in 30 inches square panels using travertine marble, some polished and some split to show the rough fossil-bearing sandstone inside and contrasting with other areas finished in aluminium. Together with the careful mixing of straight lines and curves and taken against the stunning blue sky, it was another photographer’s dream! The only shame was that due to the drought in LA, the water features which usually consume 2500 gallons of water each day were turned off over a year ago to conserve water. So taken were we by the building and garden, the only paintings we went in to see were Irises by Van Gogh, especially as I have visited the garden in Provence where they were painted, and Manet’s Spring, new to the Getty and previously privately owned.

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Returning, we got off the bus outside Amoeba Records, the world’s largest independent record store, just in time to catch Mark Ronson do a DJ set promoting his new album, Uptown Special. The store was filled with aisle upon aisle of everything you could think of and didn’t know existed – new, preloved, vinyl – with a crowd squeezed between enjoying the free show.

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We also got entertained while we dined at Micelli’s, the oldest Italian restaurant in Hollywood, with red and white check tablecloths and wicker covered Chianti bottles hanging from the ceiling and the home of singing waiters and waitresses! The pianist accompanied dinner and our waiter who had toured Europe in the Lion King sang a couple of songs between courses … great fun!

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Another fun meal was at Mel’s diner, a taste of yesteryear Americana complete with jukeboxes on the tables so you can pick the tunes and seating in cosy booths. Camille looked after us beautifully and the food was good.

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So good in fact that we returned for an Elvis Sramble and Short Stack for breakfast before heading to LAX for our final flight of our 101 day round the world trip … home!

Thanks for travelling with us, and just for the record, the only things we didn’t get to see were whales and hobbits!

 

Las Vegas … Full of Suprises

We dropped the hire car back, then got a taxi to ‘The Fabulous Flamingo” … “we weren’t built on the Strip, the Strip was built around us”

Donny and Marie are starring here … Chris is hoping …!

We are staying here for 4 nights, on the 12th floor with a distant view of the flamingos, room great but a fair feat to hobble there. (Chris thinks a wheelchair is the answer but I’m not pushing him with my ankle!). We had a frozen margarita and blew a whole $2 on blackjack then checked out the flamingos at the Flamingo …

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We walked down and saw the Venetian at night …

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… had pizza in Grimaldi’s then walked next door to the Wynn with its huge waterfall out front, to see the Lake of Dreams where a cute frog sings every 30 minutes.

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Next day we took The Deuce bus to The Mandalay, walked back to Luxor with its pyramid and sphinx …

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… took the tram to the castellated Excalibar and New York with that statue and a roller coaster …

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… saw the lion outside the MGM Grand …

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We also passed the Paris with the Eiffel Tower …

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… and Caesars Palace with seriously elongated classic architecture.

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We stopped for lunch at Margaritaville where we had an Incommunicado and a Fins to the Left as a plane flew overhead, with a Jimmy Buffett soundtrack that we just had to bring home.

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That evening, we went to Treasure Island where we ate in Señor Frogs …

DF2B59A9-29B0-4AD9-A1F3-A8D820CE386ED3C5285A-7C23-4462-A76D-1A1935BB186FCF609C4F-C183-4B26-984C-82FB9BD172232AFF7395-0229-4848-9DF0-FFBC2E37CCB5… and saw Mystere, the original Cirque du Soeil show in Las Vegas, which was excellent – a mixture of acrobatics and dance with great music and lighting complete with comedy interludes. We had also hoped to see the free Sirens show, but like the National Parks, this was also closed.

Chris had planned a surprise for me the following morning, but I didn’t know what it was until he told me about the night before. We were collected from the hotel by a white limousine, taken for a drive down the Strip, then to a drive-through wedding chapel where we renewed our vows. I thought it was a very romantic surprise and was delighted that this time I managed the vows without a sniffle!

B01B8825-5B5D-48B9-970D-734F092526B8B182B061-1B3D-4D2F-9B6C-D5B3BE80DE4F99205DEE-375B-41FD-9B54-D4013F135AADAFB7D483-1767-475B-89A9-6A895B7421B3Afterwards, the limo dropped us at Paris, where we had a champagne lunch in the Eiffel Tower Restaurant overlooking the Bellagio lake.

FAB22809-88C2-42BE-9D39-5C228A00F7E514DFDAD4-9824-497F-B7D0-675FF2529C07As we left, we saw the Bellagio fountains perform, and the amount of water and the height and power of the jets is amazing.

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Later we listened to Big Elvis at Harrahs, a fixture in Vegas (maybe because he is too large too move) but unfortunately his voice has left the building! We then got the bus to Freemont Street to see the neon casino signs …

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… and the projected light show, which played a live performance of Bon Jovi …

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…then the Time Warp with Halloween motifs onto the curved ceiling along the street.

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We blew $20 on roulette in the Golden Nugget and had dinner before returning to catch the Bellagio fountain by night. It was a fabulous day and certainly one to remember.

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Our last day here, we went and looked round the the three hotels which promised the most impressive interiors, the Bellagio, Caesars Palace and the Venetian. The Bellagio has the lobby and Conservatory with a seasonal Halloween display which was very impressive.

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Caesars has an amount of classic architecture and also the Fall of Atlantis show, which was … wait for it … closed for maintenance, so no points there.7ACC212E-BCAB-4721-A32E-4D4A1E9BEFE25D11C4E0-9C52-475F-A07D-8B37ED99540FF79017EC-9C14-4417-80AE-289F4D164F9C25F0C750-F25C-4D34-AA1C-8F0BF2A5C2C3

Finally The Venetian had it all, impressive exterior with the Rialto bridge and Campanile, canals that ran indoors with gondoliers, Italian statuary and a short operatic show in St Marks Square.

CE57E9F8-39B6-435C-AAD2-AF19CBF42D6ACC6256FC-08CE-4711-BE23-4DC4F6005100E1860296-5551-4B08-ADC1-2C969BBD66893EF9E277-43F5-46E6-B36A-3A60826065ADNot all is sunny in Vegasland however – maybe the $75 fee for a personal (electric powered) 13 minute gondola trip was the reason the gondoliers were twiddling their thumbs, and somehow St Marks was missing completely from the square!0AF0184C-D2F2-4DCE-9FD4-EB03EF7ACBDE678A772C-4B8F-42F1-8247-C6489E3A69C3Ultimately Vegas is one elaborate stage set, with holidaymakers taking the starring roles while ex-vets, beggars and Mexicans handing out call girl cards take the walk-on parts.

In the evening we went for cocktails at the Chandelier Bar at the Cosmopolitan, a very pretty twinkly place with amazing cocktails. Chris had the Cereal Killer and I had the Baked Alaska. After dinner we stopped off to watch the volcano erupt at The Mirage so Chris and Elaine’s Utah Trail 2013 has ended with a bang!

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Our final tally is:

5 states (Nevada, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona)

5 State Parks (Kodachrome, Dead Horse Point, Gooseneck, Goblin Valley, Riordan Mansion)

4 National Forests (Dixie, Fishlake, Tonto, Coconino)

3 National Parks – a peek only (Zion, Bryce, Capital Reef)

2 Tribal Lands (Ute, Navajo)

2 National Monuments (Grand Staircase-Escalante, Natural Bridges)

… and everything has been wonderful!

When we got home I was persuaded to take my poorly ankle to the hospital and found I’d broken my leg … oops!

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Flagstaff … Zane Grey was here!

7FCA0466-EA96-48A1-A7B7-4B2231EFEC4CWe organised a stop here in Flagstaff to break the journey back to Vegas, but actually with the replan, we’ve only had an hour’s drive from Sedona. First we visited the Riordan Mansion, built in 1904 and an impressive reminder of gracious living in a small, territorial logging town. Built in the Arts and Crafts style, it has a rustic exterior of log-slab siding, volcanic stone arches, and hand-split wooden shingles and contains some forty rooms.

85F49A03-B387-4A35-AFC0-F1238CEA440327231CA1-DEAF-4240-8238-E85C39D3F505We are staying at the Weatherford Hotel, a historic hotel opened in 1900 and host to many famous people including Roosevelt, Wyatt Earp and the author Zane Grey who wrote loads of western stories, including ‘Call of the Canyon’ while actually guest. I’m up to chapter 4 and the hotel already has a mention! The bar was relocated here from Tombstone.7FCA0466-EA96-48A1-A7B7-4B2231EFEC4C02AA6F62-7D72-4FB4-8678-8E15E95F370C780291EB-5CB5-4221-B405-9B3EF6426382

I hadn’t realised it was Homecoming Weekend for Northern Arizona University, with bars open for Tequila Sunrise at 6am … and the game not starting till 4pm! It seems British football fans don’t have a monopoly on pre-game bevvies but this was as close as we got to the game …

D3A5981A-85C0-4AB9-B66C-D69C6B48F2BAWe ate in the hotel, and there was a band on in the bar and also a wedding in the Zane Grey Ballroom, so the place was lively, but we slept ok and are heading out, having finally had a short stack for breakfast!

Halloween is only a week or so away, so the stores are full of stuff and the cinema is advertising in Flagstaff … so here are cute smiley pumpkins meet zombies and meat puppets!

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We stopped for fuel and Chris went walkabout at the truck stop snapping, and I had to include these …

A2826D72-892C-4B16-B2CC-EE94CA095D4C3A59AFC3-5BA4-4FB4-A27C-983BD310BCAFF0B194B6-0A0C-4B15-8BBE-75C9BD9FEA6B94301866-57AC-4662-9C55-B561FD0D4A40Next stop is our final trail stop … Las Vegas!