Arriving in Manhattan

file-f328c3ed-fc6a-4935-a130-dfd29bac39fb-233-000000018c487c25Our first glimpse of the Manhattan skyline was from the plane as we landed at Newark airport. The most memorable part of the journey was the two and a quarter hours we waited in line for passport control! After that we took a bus and the subway and arrived at our apartment just minutes before Joanna who had made her way from La Guardia – a journey of 26 hours from Sydney … all so exciting!

We are staying at the San Fermin Apartments in Harlem, just north of Central Park and we were welcomed by Bernardo who showed us up 3 floors to our lovely two bedroom apartment complete with a kitchenette for breakfast.

Later we headed to the nearest place to eat, a tapas bar called Peque where it was warm enough to sit outside as we caught up over sangria and beer and a selection of little nibbles which hit the spot perfectly then picked up a few groceries on the way back before an early night.

There is always a history spot, so here is a little bedtime reading if you are interested.

Giovanni da Verrazano was the first European to discover New York Harbor in 1524, but it wasn’t until Henry Hudson, sailed up the Hudson River in 1609 exploring on behalf of the Dutch East India Company, that the The Dutch started the first permanent trading post in 1624. They bought the island of Manhattan from the Native Americans for goods worth 60 guilders, often said to be worth US$24 and the name Manhattan comes from Manna Hata meaning Island of the Hills. The Dutch built a town called New Amsterdam which flourished and in 1664 the English renamed it New York after the Duke of York.

Around a century of British rule was brought to an end by the War of Independence and the inauguration of George Washington as America’s first president took place in 1789. Business and trade increased in New York and immigrants followed, first Irish and German, then Italian, Chinese and East European. The city sided with the Union of the north against the Confederates of the south in the Civil War which ended in 1865 and afterwards, New York became the wealthiest and most influential city in the country, expanding to include Brooklyn, Staten Island, Queens and The Bronx as well as Manhattan.

The turn of the century saw expansion, the population reached 3 million and the first cast iron buildings heralded in a skyline of skyscrapers and the Jazz Age. Many changes followed with The Wall Street Crash, the Great Depression, WWII and postwar years of social and economic challenges followed by reduction in crime and urban regeneration. In 2001 the 9/11 terrorist attack on the World Trade Center killed almost 3000 people, but in the wake of the disaster, the city remained a major financial and cultural capital with over 40 million tourists visiting the city each year.

Chris & Elaine Meet Joanna in New York 2018

New York, New York, so good they named it twice, yet this will be our first visit and high time we saw all those skyscrapers for ourselves. What’s more, we are thrilled that Joanna is travelling from Sydney to spend the week with us.

There is so much to do – sights to see, buildings to climb, boats to ride, art and architecture to admire and neighbourhoods to visit.

In a city of five boroughs, we plan to see plenty of Manhattan and pay fleeting visits to Brooklyn and Staten Island. Joanna will pass through Queens from La Guardia but The Bronx will miss out completely – a week is just not long enough to see everything!

And we must leave time for taking photographs and culinary sampling … bagels … New York Cheesecake … pastrami on rye … New York Pizza …!

With luck the weather in September will be just right for plenty of walking and we will be arriving with our comfy new shoes on the 19th September so watch this space …

Journal Entries

Arriving in Manhattan

Harbour Cruise & The Highline

Central Park & The Met

Lower East Side & SoHo

Greenwich Village & The Whitney

Financial District & Brooklyn

Midtown & MoMA

Map

Salt Lake City and Temple Square

file-142E83C4-A895-411D-811F-BC9D0FFF453A-3203-0000027E615B3BA3We stopped in Salt Lake City and headed to Temple Square, the headquarters of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints or Mormons for a quick look. At the centre is the huge Salt Lake Temple begun in 1853 and built over 40 years by pioneers, which we found out more about in the visitor centre as we weren’t allowed in. There were also assembly buildings, a huge office block, a centre for family genealogy and a tabernacle where we heard an organ recital.

file-97902B43-7139-45A9-A35C-4DFBBD77980C-3203-0000027E60CC1798file-15232879-87FC-4946-B6F0-6E7C8B2EE341-3203-0000027E6008DE67file-1E5DC443-DDA6-4BBF-9304-C0724A5AE73A-3203-0000027E5F74679D

We were shown round Brigham Young’s house, which contained few original items, but was an opportunity for the missionary sisters to tell us about their church. All in all a fairly uninspiring experience. Just round the corner we found the Red Rock Brewery where we had great burgers for lunch then headed to the airport!

Well we have reached the end … with every National Park on our itinerary visited! So what did we think … the Grand Canyon had to be done but is almost too huge, Zion is popular, way too popular for us, Mesa Verde was really interesting and we wouldn’t have missed it, Canyonlands has the cool Green River overlook and the Grand Tetons were just grand. Then it gets more difficult … Arches was the reason for coming in the first place and we loved being able to hike off and find an arch with no crowds … Bryce was truly magestic and very hikeable and Yellowstone was huge and so varied with a canyon, geysers, coloured pools, bison … and at least one black bear because we saw him! Antelope Canyon also needs a special mention for those amazing pink curves and swirls.

Will we come back … maybe … maybe not … but we wouldn’t have missed seeing any bit of it!

Glad you came along with us … and here’s to the next trip!

Provo and the Halloween Anniversary Cruise

file-9693108A-8E82-4F06-BD9D-3A6337B7713C-3203-0000027E62FFC100Originally, our plan was to return to Salt Lake City have a look round, and celebrate our wedding anniversary with a boat trip on the Great Salt Lake. Our wedding reception was held on a boat on the Thames and we have celebrated on the water ever since … no craft too small! We then found out that water levels in the lake have been very low, especially at the end of the season so decided to come to Provo and booked a sunset cruise on a sailboat on Utah Lake instead. Just before we came away, we found out that Utah Lake was closed due to an algal bloom causing health risks … Hopefully all is not lost … read on …

Well here we are in Provo, staying in the lovely Hines Mansion, originally built as a family home in 1895 and now a B&B. Our lodge themed room has brought our trip visiting the national parks full circle.

Breakfast was served round a big kitchen table and everyone else had been to the game the night before, supporting the Brigham Young University football team who won in extra time. Each of the other couples had met at BY, still supported the team and were visiting to see the Homecoming game.

Salt Lake City, just north of here, is most famous for being founded by Brigham Young and being the headquarters of the Mormon church. The centre of town in Provo is dominated by the rather Disneyesque City Center Temple, originally built in 1898 but recently reconstructed having been gutted by fire. If we’d been here earlier in the year, it was briefly open to the public before being dedicated, but now you have to be part of the Mormon church to enter.

file-0FC94429-A38D-436C-9A99-07951CBED861-3203-0000027E6E13B67F

One thing that struck us walking round town is that there are no coffee shops or bars … not surprising since the Mormons want to keep their bodies as temples and not drink alcohol, tea or coffee … mind you excess sugar consumption seems perfectly acceptable if the number of ice cream parlours, dessert establishments and bakeries is anything to go by! Fortunately, with careful choice, picking a restaurant serving alcohol isn’t difficult!

We have a beautiful sunny day today, and so went for a drive into the mountains following the Alpine Scenic Loop. We walked through Bridal Veil Falls park, along the Provo River to the falls …

file-C9DAC4CC-6A20-41AE-BB61-695503DA1E65-3203-0000027E6C53D95Cfile-F0914194-B201-492A-A960-0343FC222731-3203-0000027E6CF998CE

file-AD067746-C9A1-44E7-BD88-7F21191A3336-3203-0000027E6D85D724

… then continued round Mount Timpanogos, enjoying the autumn colour and even another bear!

file-4FBE1792-6BDC-40FB-A64A-EF7D2FC8EFCD-3203-0000027E6BAA642Dfile-F6DA92AC-1546-452B-837F-924FDBCA5C16-3203-0000027E6A4A9BA8file-4761DBEC-FEF1-440E-9F7C-743C8F2216D9-3203-0000027E67D0BDD4file-7C7AFC6F-45AF-4C07-BE28-C5D309BA6307-3203-0000027E6B0D44A9

Halloween is a big thing here, and lots of houses are decorated, even though there’s still a fortnight to go …

file-4B5514DA-01EA-4293-9C2A-0343537D9A61-3203-0000027E6727B84Dfile-799C17C4-BE4E-46A7-B94B-5B02C5C89C84-3203-0000027E668E4760file-249D5EF6-5437-438D-B6C8-29FA3D57FB71-3203-0000027E66015784

… and this lot obviously had a craft afternoon planned!

file-2C5040AD-5D87-465C-86D2-55CAB256D6AC-3203-0000027E6E8418B4

Fortunately for us and luckily spotted online by my clever husband, the Provo River Halloween Cruise runs daily through October! We turned up just before 7pm, as the sun was setting, pleasantly surprised that it was still over 20 degrees so not exactly chilly for our themed adventure boat ride along the Provo River.

file-FF26389B-D013-4B47-9522-0C8F40FF1592-3203-0000027E64EEB505file-9693108A-8E82-4F06-BD9D-3A6337B7713C-3203-0000027E62FFC100

We paid our $7 each and were shown to our cruise boat, seating around 30 and were pulled up and down the river on a line by our pirate captain.

The round trip took 20 minutes, admiring the lights and the hand-carved jack-o-lanterns, surviving the Pirate Attack and also the scary story told by the boat captain.

Needless to say, we were older than the average audience, but set a good example! We returned to town and went to the Black Sheep, a Native American owned south-western restaurant where we had possibly the best enchiladas of our trip …

file-F54C4F71-D150-4EC3-84E0-2A755646ED9D-3834-0000032E331F36D9

and a little fizz!

file-B42237C2-12DB-4AA7-82DF-59812E1C00C3-3203-0000027E620185DA

Almost at the end, we head back to Salt Lake City tomorrow …

Bryce Canyon – Hiking in the Hoodoos

file-A8DD175D-09D6-4FE0-910E-E6C687BF15F9-3725-0000030A5E482195Heading north, we passed a sign that said Mystic River Zipline – 10 miles. After a while, I asked Chris what he thought about having a go, and he said it was 7 miles further! We stopped and were rigged out with harnesses and taken up the trail to the first tower with a 800ft line … it was great, really whizzy, and you twist round and see all the lovely autumn colour on the trees covering the hillside! The second tower had a pair of lines so we could race … although I think it was a dead heat … great fun!

Our drive brought us to the last of our revisited destinations, Bryce Canyon National Park, named by early settlers to the area.

file-C43A8B4D-F025-4AB3-B41D-A17C1D70B741-3203-0000027E8197B545

Last time we managed a peek into the park, but didn’t see the amphitheatre which is the main attraction. We arrived in time to walk the rim trail from Bryce Point round to Sunset Point, seeing the hoodoos from different angles and watching the colours change, and although it was cloudy there were sunny bits, and the sun dropped below the rim and finally set.

file-CF926FC8-5A3D-403D-98B5-E63BBA04E7E0-3203-0000027E81176F3B

file-BCE10905-131A-4D74-B74A-EBC75FDE13BF-3203-0000027E8042E038file-A8DD175D-09D6-4FE0-910E-E6C687BF15F9-3725-0000030A5E482195file-1E991C52-7F02-4AF6-9070-5C9FDC2FCB46-3725-0000030A5DC3ED3D

Next day we drove to Bryce Point for sunrise, to Chris’s horror getting up at 6.15! It was worth it to see the hoodoos in the amphitheatre light up as the sun rose, although by about 8.30 we were so chilly we went to the historic Bryce Canyon Lodge for breakfast.

file-530A8B60-1434-479B-B005-D43EABD806FD-3725-0000030A62CA0895file-D6792B7B-083A-42D2-96A2-249478BBABEB-3725-0000030A61F4BBDD

Revitalised, and surprised by how much warmer it had got, we started the steep hike down the Queens Garden Trail from Sunrise Point, following the trail in between the hoodoos. The views were great, a photo round every corner.

file-4B4FA232-0BA8-41F8-B9BD-4A6926BD820C-3203-0000027E7AF85A96file-5BF2C231-9CEB-4691-9766-E3B25F018723-3203-0000027E7B8E4630

We even caught sight of a mule train taking intrepid visitors round the hoodoos. We joined the Navajo Loop and were surprised how large the wooded area was at the bottom …

file-69923B2E-20F3-4C79-87D1-6611698CBDFD-3203-0000027E7956D7D0

… then started our climb gently at first past Theo’s Hammer and then up some very steep switchbacks to return to the rim at Sunset Point, by which time we had got very warm!

It was such a great hike and we weren’t surprised that it is billed as the best 3-mile hike in all the National Parks!

Later we took the 18 mile scenic drive and stopped at the lookouts on the way and very luckily, Chris spotted this little chap looking for supper, a Utah prairie dog, showing his best side!

file-A4D34A4C-82A2-4F54-B6FC-24451442E13F-3203-0000027E74B4FDDE

After dinner, Chris had a go at taking photos of stars … mainly so he could justify having bought a stargazers glow-in the-dark t-shirt … and some look pretty good … camera club beware!

Bryce has been a real treat, and despite a pretty basic motel and not much more inspiring food, the park is truly majestic and has stunned us with its beauty.

We could have headed north on the interstate, but chose to take back roads for a way, including another scenic byway, the Nebo Loop …

… stopping for Autumn colour, overlooks and the Bryce-like Devils Kitchen.

Now onward to Salt Lake City … but there is one more stop …

Zion – Utah’s Most Visited Park

file-30C3ADD2-4DBD-476E-B998-4841879A13FC-3203-0000027E8A3ADA3BWe drove a couple of hours to Springdale, pretty much three years and a week after our last visit, when we found out our planned Utah Trail was not going to go to plan! However it’s a great opportunity to return to Under the Eaves B&B and enjoy the warm Southwestern hospitality of our hosts Mark and Joe.

Before we checked in, we hiked the Watchman Trail, a three mile round trip to the red rock platform in the middle of the photo, in front of the Watchman Rock which stands sentinel over the south entrance to Zion. It was very warm and sunny, and nice to wear a pair of shorts again!

file-3502C9F7-D13F-41CF-8A4E-ABA9EBE5195E-3203-0000027E93E84ECDfile-73E65C0D-43E3-445B-9365-FF0219199A33-3203-0000027E905A6BAD

file-ED07C256-B6AF-486A-BDAE-AEACD27F08C3-3203-0000027E93634E9D

file-E76E2ACD-BBA3-4F9A-B82E-360D0ECE22DC-3203-0000027E9248E20Dfile-5FBD41EF-12C1-4426-994B-D488B49D14A1-3203-0000027E913A4541

The canyon was called Zion by early Mormon settlers, and chosen as the name for the park over the Paiute name of Mukuntuweap which means ‘Straight Up Land’. At the Grand Canyon, we were at the rim looking down, but at Zion you are at the bottom looking up, unless you hike one of the strenuous paths to the rim. We took the shuttle to the Temple of Sinawava at the end of the park, and took the riverside hike for a mile or so.

 

At this point, the trail, if you can call it that, is called The Narrows and the only way to continue, is to cross the river and continue up the narrowing canyon, eventually walking up the river bed. Outfitters in town will rent you special shoes to get wet in, but at this time of year the water is pretty cold, so we turned about!

file-4A33DA40-CC6E-479C-9995-BF78CC379660-3203-0000027E8E8D7015file-0AB42310-D952-4FE6-BD59-36AD9AF04462-3203-0000027E8F4C99DC

We stopped at several viewpoints and took pics of the huge canyon walls, including one at the Court of the Patriachs where the peaks of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob all loom over 2000m above.

file-3DC16C95-9E5B-431B-9FFF-E8B1634AC559-3203-0000027E8D50B047

 

Next day, we had planned to hike Angel’s Landing, an iconic climb of almost 500m to a viewpoint, including the use of chains towards the end, to pull oneself up the face, but somehow, just didn’t feel in the mood! Instead, we chose a more gentle walk, still with great views …

file-30C3ADD2-4DBD-476E-B998-4841879A13FC-3203-0000027E8A3ADA3Bfile-7250CB2A-E6AD-4A73-8C60-7A2022114951-3203-0000027E87C489BC

… Emerald Pools …

file-95F34FA5-BF06-4BD7-84D4-5309AF9101A5-3203-0000027E87553DA5

… then along the river back to town where we saw climbers …

 

 

… The Towers of the virgin and plenty of wildlife.

file-7143EA5B-F886-4FCF-99EA-B0039CC77908-3203-0000027E86BABAC0

 

We planned a final hike on our way out of Zion, an overlook trail, but the parking area was tiny and full so we had to drive on past some fall colour and the Checkerboard Mesa.

file-019B3625-1A54-44CF-88B1-5AEDF5E1F7B9-3203-0000027E8511A69Afile-E63C9AF5-9DAA-4DE7-B33B-A9481A5DCB1F-3203-0000027E840948F9file-FDC28FB7-6B4B-4F14-8FD1-E4D65196F552-3203-0000027E8494683Bfile-2E231C47-F8DF-4A96-A877-27D5572611A4-3203-0000027E82FFD0A7

Zion canyon is spectacular and worth a visit, but it has felt one of the busiest parks as there is less space in which to disperse the visitors, and hiking options are limited. Springdale however, has good restaurants and quirky shops and we wouldn’t have missed staying at Under the Eaves again, where we felt very much at home.

file-D3613250-796B-4797-BBFF-5693D3C3188E-3203-0000027E8C4C52B8file-758A1539-4FA3-4986-8D5A-C3FCDB3C95C2-3203-0000027E859BE4C6file-FADB49F1-7FFB-4E07-AA8A-782F82B9DAC8-3203-0000027E8AB51842

 

Next stop, our eighth and final park …

Antelope Canyon and Rafting the Colorado River

file-E92FE048-42A1-4B3E-A214-C75974BF8D4F-3203-0000027EA453D116Moving on, we drove a couple of hours north to Page. On our first trip, we had planned to visit the Grand Canyon and Page but when we rescheduled, we missed these places off with the canyon being closed and went further south to Phoenix and Sedona.

We passed the Vermillion Cliffs and what looked like smoke signals – maybe the Page Pow Wow – oops no it was the power plant!

We’ve rebooked the same tours and first went on Ken’s Antelope Canyon tour.

file-1D7D9DF5-4F6A-46E8-911C-758206C20EEE-3203-0000027EA9A16EA1

Chris went on the photographers tour, in a small group, taking tripods and I went on a general tour. Antelope Camyon is a slot canyon which has to be seen to be believed, formed by erosion from flash floods which bring water and sand rushing through its passages. You cannot see it easily above ground and once inside, it is narrow and twists and turns – imagine being inside a seashell. Even in a group, with youngsters shrieking and taking selfies and parents trying to keep young children under control it was quite magical. The light and the colours and the angles are fabulous for photos, and since a picture was published in National Geographic in the 1990s, this place is firmly on the map. Certainly a highlight of the trip and Chris can’t wait to get some of his photos home to Lightroom, but I’m quite pleased with my Studies in Pink too.

file-C9F08E20-466E-4F16-B319-B4F4A38801C8-3203-0000027EA6FB88D3

file-0E79187B-7AA4-4777-8DE8-AA3B512D5E87-3203-0000027EA67DCB86

 

Here was the exit and a stray dinosaur print too.

When we started looking for our motel, we were amused to see signs for the Old Quarter, as Page only came into existence in 1957 with the building of the Glen Canyon dam.  The street of Little Motels has preserved the original construction workers units and converted them to motels.

We chose Red Rock Motel, where Brady and Pamela made us feel very welcome.

file-D7253505-67BD-4270-8E59-8001E128E885-3203-0000027EA05012D9

A visit to Sunshine Laundry provided some clean clothes and we ended the day with fajitas and burritos In the very cute El Tapatio, easily swayed by a margarita and a mariachi!

Today we are rafting the Colorado through Glen Canyon, a tour we booked last time to coincide with our tradition of celebrating our wedding anniversary on the water somehow. This trip, we are here a week early, but we are doing it anyway! We started with a bus ride through the 2 mile access tunnel cut into the side of the canyon, containing windows cut to jettison the waste rubble from the tunnel. We then put on hard hats to walk under the road bridge 700ft above, just in case someone threw something out the car window … which could prove painful! Then we boarded our raft, leaving the dam behind and floated down the Colorado while we wondered at the canyon walls soaring 1000ft above us, with Martin pointing out anything of interest.

We went round Horseshoe Bend, and yelled Hello at the visitors photographing the bend from above and heard an echo, then took a snap of the ‘hill’ that forms the centre of the bend (if this sounds confusing, check out the photo from the viewpoint later on).

Then we motored back, stopping at a small beach for a rest stop, where we saw Rocky sunning himself, and some animals grazing and had a very quick paddle as the water was only 8 deg C.

file-5E9512DE-2F92-449C-89D2-13C28A3AEFAD-3203-0000027E9AF77FF5

The day was a bit grey which didn’t help the photos, but our guide Martin was full of information and jokes and made the trip especially enjoyable, happy to point out the waterfall … aka seepage … aka LEAK and also the bolts holding the dam together!

Afterwards, we visited the the Glen Dam viewpoint to get a different perspective …

Before leaving Page behind, we stopped at a couple more viewpoints … one with a bird’s eye view of Horseshoe Bend, where I had a lovely chat with Christina from Texas while waiting for the light to get better …

file-743B0141-1A3F-4FDA-9C8C-86C217C73507-3203-0000027E9629CBF9

… and the other at Wahweap Marina with views of the huge Lake Powell.

file-36896EDA-3CBC-47A7-A39C-E00CA157AAFF-3203-0000027E950370EFfile-A8541774-5B7B-4B63-AD37-966A69BCAA0F-3203-0000027E946C76A4

Now we we go north again, this time to the promised land …!

 

Grand Canyon

file-9CCFAE29-803F-488F-A7A8-ABC2E6DFA193-2752-000002778FD28A1DLeaving Cortez, we deliberately picked Highway 163 so we could drive through the stunning Monument Valley once more.

file-F00F204D-EA98-4CA2-82F7-5A6B73A2DA8B-3203-0000027EC52552B3

file-AC3AD7D3-2937-4343-AEF9-BC8CDDC238E4-3203-0000027EC40A9DFCOur drive also took us from Ute tribal lands, passed Hopi lands and across the Navejo Nation and into our sixth and final state – Arizona. We stopped for coffee at the Blue Coffee Pot and were surprised to be told ‘we were alright’ when we came to pay. Confused, we hovered, and a girl came over and said the coffee was on the house. Feeling surprised but a little uncomfortable we left money in the tip pot!


We stopped briefly at an overlook for the Little Colorado River …

file-FFD0F864-4C1F-4409-B61E-CFF412388106-3203-0000027EC2F12B0D

… then continued to enter the Grand Canyyon NP at the East Entrance and take our first view of the canyon at Desert View.

file-79F81773-F10A-41B3-95C3-01CA5538B6C2-3203-0000027EC23DF06D

We were totally amazed, nothing prepares you for the actual size, even other people saying how huge it is! Also, the way the light plays on the different angles of the rock and the colour is stunning, but none of the photos seems to do justice to its splendour.

file-C536E0CE-785F-43C8-A002-119B59BD7564-3203-0000027EC1278C44file-0FC286C7-ABEE-4E2D-BD77-31D37B141FDB-2752-0000026A03826776

The viewpoint was developed in 1912, and has a watchtower designed by Mary Colter, a young architect who designed several other buildings including the Bright Angel Lodge. She wanted to make a rest stop, with a view, that fitted into its surroundings and told visitors about the Indians of the South West, so it looks a bit like a tower from Mesa Verde or Hoveweep, decorated with petroglyphs and wall art and gives a huge view of the canyon.

file-AB4EF446-3DF7-4DF2-94B8-7498BE672949-3203-0000027EC1AE58C6file-EE46A7FC-491F-41E2-A270-531597DE6149-3203-0000027EC09735F4file-09577B87-9CF3-4D86-BF8A-5A82CF4EEA57-3203-0000027EBFF1B554file-D6458198-41B6-47E2-8E24-20A61178186C-3203-0000027EBF522927

We also stopped at Grandview, further down the canyon …

file-DB933177-F18C-4188-AE5A-E4FC489BD9C9-3203-0000027EBEBB1E6E

file-9EB701F0-2E0A-4DEF-B72B-8DF45FEACE01-2752-0000026A0435A104

… took some pics then headed on to check in at Bright Angel Lodge.

file-0983D7C5-1C79-47C8-AF86-E3CB4EC40AEB-3203-0000027EBDBE0250

We then went out to catch our first sunset in the canyon, and chose Yavapai Point so walked along the rim trail, watching the sun get lower as we went. The dark shadow increased in the canyon but a large part of the north rim was reddened by the by the setting sun.

file-82015992-34F0-45F1-9BB3-4BD211776B25-3203-0000027EBCD07068

We walked back and ate in the Harvey House Cafe where we had great build your own burgers, every ingredient a personal choice … yummy.

file-9BED0AC0-34B5-47C5-83EA-64FB65C0A3F2-3203-0000027EBC53F8E3

After breakfast, we started walking the rim trail from Bright Angel Lodge to Hermits Rest, in total 8 miles. We began at Hopi Point.

file-93E85ACD-1277-4CCC-9BEA-E5742CE41A0B-3203-0000027EBBBDF221

The first couple of miles were on paved path which was easy walking and quite busy.

file-7234C212-C43A-46AB-AF09-F9D0B83712C1-3203-0000027EBAA7AA58

Then it became a gravel trail for 3 miles which was far nicer with fewer people.

file-61407D2B-16F6-426A-B2D9-09E21D9BF5A0-2752-0000026A7680EDA5

The views were huge, and changed slowly, the drop was precipitous in places, and the canyon contained every earthy hue imaginable. All the views points had names – Mohave Point …

file-0A9931DE-376D-4575-B9E5-341E1D809D7F-3203-0000027EB8FB64D5

The Abyss …

file-82CA7DA8-1AD4-485C-880A-A582FA724B51-3203-0000027EB85CDF3C

Monument Creek …

file-593B73D0-4186-4607-A03B-D80262A2E48F-3203-0000027EB75732FC

Despite following the rim, there was still a fair bit of up and down, and lots of stops for photos and before we knew it we’d been out for four hours and had had enough! At this point the trail became a paved path to share with bikes, so we took an executive decision to take the shuttle bus the last two stops to Hermits Rest for a cup of tea and a choc chip cookie, and were surprised there wasn’t a show-stopping view at the end!

On the bus back, feeling guilty for missing the overlook at Pima Point, we got off to take pictures before catching the next bus to the hotel.

file-5D49F128-E27F-44D1-AE13-8148B8AE4D8F-3203-0000027EB5ADCA19

After a short rest, we took the bus the other way to Yaki Point for sunset, which was lovely with some pretty cloud in the sky too. A veggie pizza and wine ended our evening beautifully … we should sleep well tonight!

file-B99BEDEC-387E-4485-AD38-2B868097F74B-2752-00000269F8B21EF3file-50276C25-A3E6-4BDF-8B74-17C559BDCA0F-2752-00000269FFF5E481file-70E3F05A-1A31-4226-A84C-3C0D7A4D8153-2752-00000269FDD1BE31file-96334073-E6E3-49D0-9904-896A10B005AC-2752-00000269FEA8946B

Next day we started with a descent into the canyon down Bright Angel Trail …

… via Indian Garden to the Colorado after 9.5 miles and a descent of over 4,500ft …

file-4E9786F6-C8FE-45A0-826F-5B7E35CE17B2-2752-00000269FA882482

Needless to say, we didn’t go that far, just about 1.5 miles down past the first tunnel …

 

file-A8B2BB04-4C7B-4B42-9AB6-E4D2C00EB107-3203-0000027EAF9767C2

… and the second tunnel which was still a descent of 500ft.

file-73DA1E91-44AA-4C76-94E9-A1598493A1E2-3203-0000027EB12572BB

It may have been easier to go by donkey, but it looked a bit precarious …

lt gave a different perspective to be below the rim, but as the trail descends by switchbacks, the views remain much the same.

file-05D75628-D606-4CD1-8E29-3F76DB5CA9A7-2752-0000027212FB9259

The trail still descended as we turned round and headed back up to the top. The return wasn’t as hard as we expected, but I bet it’s rather different when it’s hotter than 15 degrees.

We also hiked the last section of rim trail from Pipe Creek Vista …

file-3C1D881D-63F7-4994-861C-EF41ABBDD899-3203-0000027EADCDC5E9

to Yavapai Point, making around 10 miles along the rim in all. This included Mather Point …

file-E134B7AD-780B-4C6C-99D6-BD375775D951-3203-0000027EAD42BD26

… which had to be the most crowded part of the whole Grand Canyon, as daily coach and train tours deposit their visitors here in droves, and while the view was good, Desert View and Hopi Point were our favourites.

We have been surprised how green it is here, with scrubby trees and bushes along most of the rim …

file-798E8B46-F996-435A-B2CB-CD74C143C421-2752-00000269F9696FAE

… and impressed with how well the buildings fit in. This has been an aim at Grand Canyon since the Sante Fe Railway began bringing tourists in 1901 …

… and the Fred Harvey Company started developing the resort with ‘taste and charm’, with buildings often designed by Mary Colter including the Hopi House …

file-7A928DD4-9653-4A6B-889F-E2F34EAF8EA0-3203-0000027EAC039241

and The Kolb and Lookout Studios.

Obviously plenty of scope for critters etc … and we snapped these just for you!

Our last morning we woke early and went outside to see the sun rise, not maybe the best viewpoint, but certainly the closest, and a essential part of the Grand Canyon experience.

file-7D509522-B326-427E-8CDB-BAD54827912E-3203-0000027EAB63B128file-958CE963-6A62-4A48-BBB9-3BBF8C725AC1-2752-000002760FAAAC14

After breakfast we drive north for a little adventure …

Hovenweep & Mesa Verde

file-60CC066E-85EE-4645-8642-120C17875182-3203-0000027EC82AC676The focus of the next few days is to find out about the Ancestral Pueblo people who started hunting and gathering in the south west 10,000 years ago, and later began to farm the area. Most of the surviving buildings in the area were built in the C13, and then everyone left.

We had a fairly long drive so decided to make it longer, by making a detour to visit Hovenweep, just over the border into our fifth state, Colorado, and 20 miles from anywhere! Hovenweep is a Ute word meaning Deserted Valley, and we spent a couple of hours following the rim trail round Little Ruin Canyon where there are a number of ancestral Puebloan structures.

Many theories attempt to explain the use of the buildings at Hovenweep, particularly the striking towers which might have been celestial observatories, defensive structures, storage facilities, homes or any combination of the above. During our walk, I was surprised by a swift movement on the path and a rattling sound and I don’t know which of us was more surprised – me or the rattlesnake I almost trod on!

Our drive to Cortez took a further hour or so and we are staying at another hand-picked independent motel called Aneth Lodge for three nights. The decor is a little dated, but it’s clean, convenient and friendly! What’s more, it’s right in the centre of town so we can walk to dinner in the evening – to a brewery, a casita and The Farm Bistro for a return visit, where we’ve had the best meal of our trip so far!

Today we are heading to Mesa Verde, which is Spanish for green table, and sits between the Mancos and Montezuma valleys.

file-41DD4A2B-47CF-4D4A-8D7D-3237AF925868-3203-0000027ED518007E

file-A0F0A97F-C02B-43E4-9D99-72D712207CD2-3203-0000027ED454CAD1file-CA52555E-7C6D-4920-8D8F-A08D36D9D4EE-3203-0000027ED3AA939F

Driving into the park, the Point Lookout looms above.

file-61BC3792-15C8-47C7-AB2D-ECCDE67BA3DC-3203-0000027ECB484DAC

We started with the Chaplin Mesa visitor centre which showed an excellent film about the history of those who lived here, their lifestyle and architecture. The museum contained discover artefacts such as pottery and tools and included some dioramas built in the 1930s showing the development of the buildings here.

The most elaborate groups of ruins are the cliff dwellings, built in alcoves with the mesa top above them, dating from C12-13.  Spruce Tree House …

file-78F04B7A-DF1E-4160-BCA8-10C281EA491E-3203-0000027ED1F6E565

… and Cliff Palace were closed for conservation works, but we were able to see them from overlooks … looking remarkably like dioramas without the people!

file-694D09AF-C968-4907-99CC-0F372BC15B91-3203-0000027ED08B0EF6file-69F06FCA-0D29-4E65-9940-D289EB946E1F-3203-0000027ED00F8FECfile-EFE0EF2C-4CC3-4ED1-9403-D0E2A39F01D4-3203-0000027ECF9C00E3

They contain a variety of buildings used for living and storage together with round kivas set into the floor, which would have been covered by a roof giving a flat courtyard above. These kivas were used as communal living spaces and for ceremonial functions and would have been accessed by a ladder down through the roof. With no written records, much is guesswork with some ideas based on present day Pueblo people who still use kivas for ceremonies.

Next we took a tour of Balcony House, billed as the most adventurous tour, which involved some interesting access arrangements, up ladders, and through small gaps and a tunnel.

All was worth it to see the ruins up close, especially when you consider that the builders had no metal tools and shaped the sandstone blocks with tools made from harder stones.

file-43898DAE-19B8-4CA4-B3F8-808B1AB23D68-3203-0000027ECEBBE68Afile-19E9CB62-6D65-4D3E-B395-32135AAC50AF-3203-0000027ECE14A001

Next day we visited Wetherill Mesa, down an even longer and more windy road! We walked to the Step House first, named for the boulder steps to access the dwellings from above (looking rather like a load of rubble to me). There were several pit houses dating from 600 AD, together with one with a reconstructed roof, and it is possible to see how it was these structures that developed into the kiva once houses started to be built above ground.

Later buildings were built at the right of the alcove, similar to what we saw yesterday.

We also went on a ranger led tour of Long House, which contained much the same features we had already seen, but we got to walk round and see them up close.

file-60CC066E-85EE-4645-8642-120C17875182-3203-0000027EC82AC676file-FE5EB0B6-D2AE-4FE8-A7D1-C52D40474BFD-3203-0000027EC78E702C

There had been much made of why these people ‘suddenly’ chose to build in these alcoves here at Mesa Verde, but ranger Cindy pointed out there were similar buildings all over the mesa top as well – but with water soluble mortar made from mud, these houses have not survived. Maybe with an increase in population, the land on the mesa top was more valuable for planting crops, or maybe they just liked the view, either way, only around 20% of the population lived in these cliff dwellings. As to why they left, the most likely cause was the 20 year drought and over a number of years, the people of Mesa Verde joined thousands of other Ancestral Pueblo people who moved south to New Mexico and Arizona. Today the Hopi of Arizona among many other tribes consider themselves descendants of the builders of Mesa Verde.

Wouldn’t want to miss out the plants and critters … especially as we saw a tarantula today, and this rabbitbrush is everywhere, although most of it has finished flowering so I was lucky to notice this bit.

file-9D427074-5823-4E53-876D-70B2D802AEB4-3203-0000027EC6FBAADCfile-EF6BF7DB-038E-431B-9FA2-B1157E39F790-3203-0000027ED0F3DD18

Finally, we didn’t need to go to Vegas to see neon lights, as there are a collection here in Cortez.

file-3B396236-C2BD-4B9F-884F-AE6ABCDC1D8E-3203-0000027EC6753608

Tomorrow we leave Colorado and head into Arizona … and to the Grand Canyon.

Arches and Canyonlands

file-6BE87274-0069-4AC9-8F56-093CAD63FD44-2410-0000022EC38DB088We crossed a wide plain and reached Moab in the afternoon, one of the destinations from our original trail. We are returning to the Inca Inn, where we stayed last visit as it was one of the nicest motels we stayed in and found our room enhanced by a disco shower!

 

Arches is the park that had most inspired us when we saw the PBS series, “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea” which sent us on our Utah Trail in the first place. Last time, we did get to see the fabulous Corona Arch which is outside the park, but are looking forward to seeing quite a few more arches now we can enter the park.

We spent our first sunset at Fiery Furnace, watching the sun turn the rocks redder and redder …

file-A6468C0C-7FC2-4A7C-86C9-95CABBCD8545-3203-0000027EFFFF957Bfile-B3982AF4-CD9D-49DE-B8CE-B0ABE037E04F-3203-0000027EFEC02044

… and it looked so much richer than when we returned in the middle of the day.

file-ACEF9F0E-7A46-430A-8430-AA368D7515B8-3203-0000027EF2FD420Cfile-A8D7AC43-83DF-47C7-8E37-2F1907290152-3203-0000027EF2A6C560

As we left the park, we saw Balanced Rock and then the sunset.

file-6707BD1C-62A1-4416-A743-AE7263C71D8B-3203-0000027EFF40AEB9file-2F43A527-0370-407E-A686-315FCE6752F8-3203-0000027EFFB2A899

Cloud and rain are forecast, but the first morning was fine so we visited the most iconic spots in the park, starting with Courthouse Towers, with The Three Gossips on the left and The Organ on the right.

file-02FEEA0B-583A-4ECF-A804-A7441A97338B-3203-0000027EF8397D70file-B8792DBA-06FF-419F-BD37-4FEB9E96151A-3203-0000027EFE4025B6

Next up, North and South Windows, known together at The Spectacles …

file-83AA8469-F079-4B75-875C-DDA29FD828FF-3203-0000027EFD2AC9B7file-EED48DA1-7666-4DB9-9BC8-9A82E286C956-3203-0000027EFBB5CAC9file-B7B235B3-DFD2-4496-82ED-11BBB944318E-3203-0000027EFB22AAF6

… together with the strange looking gyroscope that is Double Arch …

file-084937BC-1881-407C-AFE0-ECBF420FB39B-3203-0000027EFAD68467

… and yes I was there!

file-2F396871-12A5-4709-AB90-3248A6314C35-3203-0000027EFA4CE46B

All these features have names, so here is Turret Arch and then there was desert with stubby trees and cacti.

 

We hiked over slickrock to Delicate Arch – probably the most photographed arch, which features on the Utah numberplate …

file-E913E1BB-C1E2-4A82-92BD-789B934546DA-2410-0000022EC2506FF3

… looked back to see how far we had come …

file-0720190B-83DE-46D2-A860-2175422D0B40-2410-0000022EC2B55ACB

… reached a corner …

file-738461F4-7E8C-47FF-94FF-E600E6C6C6A2-3203-0000027EF94137DD

… and there it was!

file-6BE87274-0069-4AC9-8F56-093CAD63FD44-2410-0000022EC38DB088

There were even petroglyphs on the way back.

file-E8F5EDE4-1B2E-4BAD-A152-B30EB65A4938-3203-0000027EF8CE89CD

By now the temperature had risen to 30 so we took some time out for lunch and a look round the shops in Moab.

We returned later hoping to see the setting sun add extra colour to the park which it did, but then the sun went behind cloud.

Here are Park Avenue with skyscrapers and the whimsical Garden of a Eden.

 

We thought that was it, but we waited and a final flash of light repaid our patient wait and got us a couple of great shots.

file-54BC1653-E599-464F-8B95-47FEED95C293-3203-0000027EF60B616Ffile-E86F2074-E1BD-49C3-9141-54DCB36258C5-3203-0000027EF59F49FCfile-4526A0E3-862D-4F37-9867-F1E00DEA4F69-3203-0000027EF715B0AEfile-F5142883-6E55-47F8-9768-714A7F16F7D6-3203-0000027EF5041ADB

There was rain in the night and next day was grey, with rain predicted, so we drove to the far end of Arches park to see some of the other arches in the Devil’s Garden. The hike to Landscape Arch, which seemed the most delicate of all the arches we saw, was busy …

file-5675C4BD-B8BE-43BC-A376-02A7F2592D20-3203-0000027EF194CE5B

… and even the more challenging extension attracted a fair few intrepid souls, but we chose to turn back here.

file-EBF4B8D9-8205-412B-B1A4-E728FC2BE8D9-3203-0000027EF1101B8E

Instead we took another path and almost had the trail to ourselves which was far nicer, giving views at every turn starting with Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch …

file-1EAE1169-08EA-41A7-A27B-9F1274E41AA4-3203-0000027EF00FD401

file-D7F994D2-195B-40C3-BDC1-B510EC8BEB00-3203-0000027EEF809764

… views …

 

 

… then Tapestry Arch …

 

… Broken Arch and a skyline Arch.

file-B34889C9-6CCD-4321-AA6C-B9B5075F3AE9-3203-0000027EEB3DA37Ffile-2D19D724-FAE8-4EB8-B1B9-701E8B07AC01-3203-0000027EEA85398D

The last arch of the day was Sand Dune Arch but more interestingly the trail that led there went through a narrow slot canyon where we met Vicky and Stuart from Pennsylvania and stood chatting about travels and photos.

 

 

 

Today we headed off to Island in the Sky in Canyonlands National Park.

 

This mesa extends to a point with the Green River on one side and the Colorado River on the other. From Shafer Overlook, we saw the Shafer Trail, once a rugged track, but since the 1950s Uranium Boom, widens to take mining trucks.

 

We took a short trail to Mesa Arch …

file-35326FDA-5814-4261-8638-9E263AEE2543-3203-0000027EE01B904F

… and saw the two river canyons highlighted by the white rim of limestone 1000ft below.

file-CADA1574-4145-44F7-B822-B593954BC87C-3203-0000027EDF70CECF

We had a bit of a hike to Grand View at the point of the Mesa where we saw the Green River one side …

file-63A33006-6B87-44E1-ACBD-1E82E2895BC3-3203-0000027EDE3CE242

… and the Colorado River the other.

file-1AB7673A-5E3A-4AE0-8A9B-10085DF4F89F-3203-0000027EDD31E71B

We saw the rain coming our way …

file-D3954FAF-12D8-424D-B748-D7CBED9E3B84-3203-0000027EDCA7B871file-69848B0C-B471-4099-AB1A-92F8A5CA88FE-3203-0000027EDB40E8F0

and were caught by a heavy thunderstorm, without our waterproofs, and sheltered under a rocky overhang till it stopped. Afterwards, we didn’t fancy climbing the wet slickrock to the end of the trail, and instead returned to dry out.

file-3C177C8F-30B0-4995-A51C-584AF6308440-3203-0000027EDA3BE0B9file-0F6A6BD0-2383-4C0D-965F-55E21C9FDF8D-3203-0000027EDBEF6F6Bfile-A6D3726A-AF0C-4EB7-A1CC-194864096659-3203-0000027EDAC43F47file-03378975-34A7-470E-8D03-68E4251976CA-3203-0000027ED9E870F2

Its not just rocks and sand here, there are plenty of plants like Utah Juniper and Narrowleaf Yucca …

 

… Mormon Teaplant and Pinyon Pine …

 

and even a deer and a cottontail bunny!

 

Since we have been travelling together, this is the first time we have returned to the same town, stayed in the same place and eaten in a couple of the same restaurants, and we have been lucky that they were all as good as we remembered. Also, with the parks being open we’ve had plenty to see that is new.