Stoke Bruerne to Cosgrove Revisited

Another beautiful day dawned and having made so much progress yesterday, we decided to aim for Cosgrove as there are several good walks here if we have extra time and the added bonus that we could visit Daisy’s Bakin Butty!

Today is Saturday of the Bank Holiday weekend and already it seems noticeably busier than when we came through a few days ago, with boats moored up nose to tail. We were hoping there would be another boat to go down the flight of locks with, and as we pulled out and set off, the skipper of Requies waved and said they would come down with us. I realised this was the same boat that I’d photographed outside Weedon Wharf the day before and once we all got chatting we found out that is where it lives, owned by skipper Andy’s father. Andy was taking it out for the first time in a couple of years with his wife Lynne and their friends Colin and Jane who were crewing and doing the locks.

We met and chatted with lots of people on the way. There was one chap who had boated all his life but with two new knees, had to take it a little easier, but was still drawn to the canal. He helped with one of the locks and told me several interesting gems such as the lock gates are painted white on the end so from a distance you can see if the lock is open or shut, and also that in days gone by the lock gates were never closed when boats left a lock – that is a new regulation so that lock gates aren’t damaged by surges of water.

He was part of a greyhound walking group, who walked along the canal to access a secure field in which they were able to release the hounds for some exercise. Apparently you can’t just let them off the lead anywhere because they run off and chase little furry things! I also chatted to another member of the group with three dogs who explained they had been racing dogs, but after three or four years, their racing days are over and often owners don’t find it economical to keep them so there are charitable groups that try to rehome them, especially as they can happily live as a pet for another ten years or so. It seems that these dogs are the lucky ones.

Next there were a couple of Canal Trust volunteers, one in training, who was loving getting out at the weekend, helping put, getting some exercise and chatting to people. Over busy weekends it helps to keep the locks moving, and some less experienced or able boaters really appreciate the help.

There were even mosaics …

At the bottom of the flight we waved goodbye to Requies, made a cuppa, and happily chugged along, enjoying the beautiful day and the scenery.

We moored for lunch, and I was tempted by footpath leading off the canal, but a loop would have been a long walk, and we decided to take it easy instead.

That didn’t stop me taking pics though …

Carrying on, we didn’t want to be caught short like yesterday and find we had to proceed further than we wanted to, so instead were over cautious, and I hopped onto the bank as we approached Cosgrove to check out there was space for us to moor. Before I knew it, I was walking and walking thinking it must come soon … but there was another bend! When we did find a spot, we couldn’t pull in close enough, so I headed beyond the Ornamental Bridge and we ended up mooring in almost the same space that we had waited for the engineer before!

Having moored up, we walked down the bank in search of Daisy’s and realised it was a good job we hadn’t tried to go further, as the bank was full of boats. We found the Bakin Butty and had drinks and chocolate chip traybake with mascarpone icing (and extra Victoria Sandwich to go for Chris) then walked down to the aqueduckt and back to walk it off!

Looking over the bridge we noticed Barbie … did she jump or was she pushed?

It was lovely just sitting on Daisy for the rest of the afternoon, with the doors and windows open, listening to the chatter of passers by, who seem to like that our little boat is called Daisy!

Dinner was going to be pasta with broccoli … till I realised I’d forgotten the pasta … so we had broccoli with dhal and potato wedges instead … yummy!

Later, Chris noticed a number of people running passed and found out this was ‘The Long Run’ a 145 mile race from Birmingham Gas Street Basin to Little Venice in London run entirely on the waymarked Grand Union Canal Towpath, regarded by many as Britain’s premier Ultra. By the time they reached us, they’d already run around 60 miles and were continuing through the night and having run marathons himself in the past, he was eager to support the runners as they passed by.

The weather has definitely improved and next morning we started with a short walk across the fields to Wolverton Mill …

… then along the bank of the Great Ouse and back through the horse tunnel and over the aqueduct. This took us passed Daisy’s again, and it would have been rude not to stop and say hi, have a coffee and a yummy iced orange cupcake! Probably a good job we are now moving on … away from temptation. Or we could paddle boarding down the canal to work it off … but I’m not sure I want to take the chance of falling in as it looks a bit murky!

Cosgrove Store solved the missing pasta problem as well as restocking bread and tomatoes and we were off once more, leaving the Iron Trunk Aqueduct behind us.

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A Flight of Locks and a Haunted Tunnel

We were awake and breakfasted and ready to go by 8.30, but had a slight technical issue, namely a blocked loo. Chris had inadvertently knocked my perfume bottle and while he had caught the bottle, the cap went into the loo and disappeared. We decided to set off, then stop and call the office once it was open. We took a few snaps crossing the aqueduct …

… then headed down to Cosgrove lock. So far, we felt we’d got the hang of steering, but the morning was breezy, and Chris had trouble lining Daisy up for the lock. Eventually he succeeded and fortunately no one was about, either watching or waiting to go as he had several attempts. This had taken so long, we made our phone call, and they said to moor up and they’d send an engineer. I took over steering, and proceeded to make just such a hash of steering Daisy just a short way down the bank to moor, bumping into another boat. The couple onboard realised we had a problem, and the wind had caught Daisy and were incredibly cheerful, saying it could happen to anyone and helped us tie up.

We waited for the engineer, who came and retrieved my perfume cap which had lodged itself perfectly into the pump entrance! All good and by 11.00 we were ready to go, but a little reticent after our steering mishap, but it didn’t seem so windy, so we set off, in theory with 5 miles and a flight of 7 locks ahead!

The canal passed between fields with sheep and cows grazing and we saw the odd church tower peeking out between trees as the canal meandered along. It remained grey and a bit chilly especially as with few moored boats to slow for, we were able to keep a reasonable speed.

At one point a boat had come loose from its morning and the current had moved it across the canal, but then it settled closer to the back and we were able to get by. We also came up behind a pair of swans and they took off down the canal.

After a late lunch we approached the first lock and saw another boat coming up behind us, hopefully meaning a buddy to work the locks with. Carpathian was owned by Colin who had Wes and Meg on a Workaway Break crewing in return for board and lodging. Not only could Meg and I work the locks together, but Wes went ahead and prepared the locks, so we reached Stoke Bruerne within a couple of hours, chatting along the way.

Rather than skirting the village, the canal was built slap bang straight through the middle of Stoke Bruerne, and the locks have raised us up 17m to get here. There was a wharf to serve the nearby quarry and Mill Dock where coal was delivered for the steam powered corn mill, now the museum. It became a popular overnight stop for working boats, where they could stock up with food, use the blacksmith, cobbler and rope maker and catch up with news. It would have been a busy and bustling working environment, quite different from the picturesque view today.

The duplicate lock was built to speed up the traffic when the canals got really busy by allowing boats to pass each other, but once the railways took over it was no longer used.

The Boat Inn remains the centre of commerce, not just a pub but also a small shop selling groceries and we picked up a loaf of bread and a couple of ice creams which we ate watching the world go by, before retiring to Daisy for the evening … and a gourmet dinner!

We woke to sunshine and breakfasted quickly and set off for a walk but got chatting to Lloyd who was moored behind us when we admired his boats. He and his wife Daisy live on Trout and recently bought a butty called Norah which they’ve turned into a coffee and cake business called Daisy’s Bakin Butty! Both boats date to the 1930’s and have been recently restored pretty faithfully to the period with Lloyd doing most of the work. They are heading to Cosgrove for the bank holiday weekend so we will try and stop by on our way back, especially as the couple of red velvet cupcakes Lloyd gave us to try were delicious!

This is the entrance to the Blisworth Tunnel which at nearly 3km long is the third longest navigable canal tunnel in Britain. It was started in 1793, and teams of navvies were to work away by candlelight, using picks, shovels and wheelbarrows for the next three years. Unfortunately they not only misaligned the route, leaving a ‘kink’ in the tunnel, but also hit quicksand, causing a roof collapse which killed fourteen men. In 1802 they tried again, and the tunnel finally opened in 1805, but it had already claimed the lives of some 50 workers. Initially the boats were legged through with a couple of men lying of top of the boat with their feet against the tunnel but from 1871 steam tugs were used to pull boats through, and extra ventilation shafts were installed. Boaters who wanted to avoid the extra cost of using tugs could still leg their boats through, but by the 1930s most people used motor boats.

Further tragedy was to strike in 1861. Entering the northern end of the unlit tunnel – which had been temporarily narrowed due to engineering works – a canal steamer known as Wasp collided head on with a narrow boat being ‘legged’ in the opposite direction when smoke from her boiler reduced visibility to zero. In the ensuing chaos several people drowned or died of fume inhalation and two engineers were horrifically burned as they fell against a furnace. As a result of this disaster a new air shaft was sunk into the crash site to provide better ventilation. Since then some travellers claim to have experienced a sense of suffocation in the vicinity of this shaft or heard the wailing, splashing and choking of dying crew members in the darkness …

Well we will be going through later, but first a walk in the sunshine! We started up Boathorse Road, the track the children used to take the horses over Blisworth Hill while their parents legged the boat through the tunnel. We turned off down a footpath, through crops and fields of grass, this time studded with clover and buttercups …

… and then quite a lot of inquisitive sheep …

…and a study in pink!

The route took us through the village of Shutlanger and back, and we bumped into Julia and James who we had chatted to on the towpath the day before about travels and walking and the countryside. We went our separate ways, with us returning to Stoke Bruerne.

We had coffee and cake in the Canal Museum and a quick look round at the history of narrowboats and the traditional roses and castles and decoration which is still used on boats today and it was time to set off once more … through the tunnel …!

We were bound to be apprehensive, although other boaters said going through was perfectly fine. We knew to turn the spotlight on and wear a waterproof as there is often water dripping from the roof, particularly the ventilation shafts. We also knew there was room for two boats to pass but it was also going to be dark, and take 30-40 minutes to get to the other end … so here goes!

Well it was fine – there was plenty of space, we dodged most of the drips, took some pictures and didn’t hear and ghostly sounds, although it would be a challenge to hear anything over the sound of the engine echoing in the tunnel. But it did seem to take a long time and we did get quite chilly. We saw a boat coming towards us which looked a little surreal …

… but passed them easily and could then see the light at the end of the tunnel!

We moored up for some soup to warm us up, then pressed on, through Blisworth with the old mill building on the left, and up to the boatyard at Gayton Junction where we stopped to refill with water.

It seemed more rural, with fewer moored boats and less traffic as we chugged along … but having got the angle a bit out when approaching a bridge a little fast, some speedy reversing avoided collision but also got something caught on the propeller. Chris struggled to get Daisy to the bank, but a chap on the towpath, also a boater we found out, offered to help and we threw him a rope to pull us in. Chris told me later he had visions of finding something horrid in the weed hatch involving bones or dead bodies, but it turned out to be a piece of plastic sacking and a torn Slumberdown padded pillow protector!

All clear we set off again, but it was almost time to call a halt for the day and find a mooring spot, which on this occasion proved easier said than done as this picturesque stretch of canal was quite shallow and it took three attempts to find a spot we could pull Daisy in close enough to the bank.

After dinner, Chris managed to join the zoomed Yateley Camera Club AGM, with the canal as a backdrop and a bit later, I was out catching the sunset.

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