We are now heading north to the Republic of Karelia, a land of lots of trees and over 60,000 lakes. Karelians are Finnic people with their lands stretching into Finland and their own culture and cuisine including Karelian pasties.
Unfortunately, we had under estimated the time it would take to return, collect our luggage and make our way to the Ladizhskaya Station … and while I had thought we needed to exchange our reservation for tickets, the queue was too long, so Chris whisked us down to our platform and thrust our reservation in the hands of the guard standing at the only remaining open door of the train, who told us to get on and within seconds the train was on its way! What a close call that was and what a hero Chris was … especially as this was the one and only train going our way today!
So this is a fairly standard long distance train with seating, and sleepers for those going further than the 260km we are travelling. We had 5.5hrs to take in the scenery and be watched over by the coach attendant who is queen of the samova, providing boiling water for anyone who wants it, free of charge, and tea and coffee for a small charge. Fortunately we had snacks as there had been no time to stop for a sandwich.
The journey took us past farmland and forest, with water close by all the time.
We arrived in Sortavala at 20.30 – or at least we hoped we were in the right place because this was the sign …
We took a taxi to Apartment on 40 Let VLKSM where we are staying, another place that looked a little worrying from the outside but perfectly fine within, in fact a spacious loft conversion, just for us.
We walked over the road to Cafe Relax for dinner, concerned it might be getting too late to be served, but we needn’t have worried. I had Russian salad with mussels and Vespian hotpot with beef, mushrooms, potatoes and lingonberries while Chris had pancakes stuffed with mushrooms and egg fried cauliflower.
Next morning we were at the port in time for coffee and a bun before catching the 9.00 hydrofoil to Valaam. Chris urged me to mention he had a 45 in his pocket … a prime 45 Olympus lens!
This island in Lake Lagoda, the largest lake in Europe, is home to Valaam Monastery, one of the most famous centres of spiritual retreat and monastic life in Russia. The blue and white domed Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour dominates and is the home of a specific Valaam chant which originated here and is apparently still sung, although not while we were there!
We entered the lower church first, a vaulted crypt with the tombs of several revered monks and icons of various saints arranged round the columns. The huge central chandelier was made of delicate gilded filigree work. Women need to wear headscarves to enter. It was very busy, with worshippers approaching the icons in turn, bowing, crossing themselves and whispering a prayer before approaching and resting their forehead on the perspex panel protecting the lower part of the icon or kissing it. Some lit candles too. The upper church was really beautiful with a huge gilded wall of icons and religious paintings, separating the nave from the sanctuary called an iconostasis. Every inch of wall was painted with pictures telling bibles stories and saints connected by patterned borders, all with a very pleasing colour and tone. Photos were not allowed, but I found out afterwards someone took a sneaky photo on his phone!
From here, we wandered round the monastery complex and out along a path that took us to Nikolski Skete.
There are several small monastic communities called sketes, where several cells are arranged around a central church and provide a bridge between a communal lifestyle and that of a hermit. This church was lovely too – more gilding, more icons and beautiful paintings.
We found a lovely picnic spot, overlooking the water where we ate bread cheese and tomatoes bought in the little shop. A jet ski outing of some 20 riders came zooming along to entertain us.
We wandered back to the dock, taking lots of pictures of the pretty views at every turn and caught the hydrofoil back.
We wandered through town …
… bought bus tickets and provisions for the next day, then chilled with a cup of tea before returning to Cafe Relax for dinner where had another yummy meal before an early night.
Off Travelling Together 