The Logar Valley

A breakfast of cold cuts which was a great start to the day, especially the oval sausage flecked with fat which is Klemenč želodec, a local speciality made in a pig’s stomach.

The Logar Valley has been designated a landscape park and there is a road and also a walking path that extends from the entrance … 7km to the Rinka Waterfall. The first section of the path was closed so we parked a bit further in, by the Palenk Waterfall.

I left Chris taking photos, while I set off walking.

I came across alpine strawberries, now you see them …

… now you don’t!

The path wound from one side of the road to another, through shady woods with beech and birch. Around halfway, there was a cafe and I tried to contact Chris to suggest he meet me there for a drink, but I couldn’t get a signal. As I drew closer, low and behold, there he was drinking coffee and surprised to see me! After a cold drink I set off again and highlights included butterflies …

and donkeys …

… but there weren’t really any views until towards the end, when the path crossed the empty watercourse which would be full during the spring thaw.

Almost at the final car park, I saw the waterfall through the trees …

but there was a final climb to get the best view.

There was also a tree with its roots completely wrapped round a rock for support and a fellow walker insisted I should have a photo with it! It was a good walk which took 2hrs, and I certainly thought it was longer than 5kms!

Chris was waiting in the car park and we drove back through the park, passing several tourist farms offering accommodation and snacks, and quite a swanky hotel with a swimming pool.

There are two smaller valleys here too, one either side of Logar so we went to take a look. We found we couldn’t drive far along Robanov Kot, but it would have been great to hike along another time.

Matkov Kot would also been better to hike, but we drove a short way down a rough track as far as Matk farm, where we were promised excellent goat milk ice cream.

Not only was my honey and Chris’s tarragon ice cream delicious …

but we saw the goats being milked …

… and the beekeeper tending the hives.

Back to the guesthouse and time for a shower before dinner. For the first time, it was a beautiful evening and we could enjoy the mountains lit by evening rays against a blue sky.

We dined on asparagus soup, salad and then local dumplings. These were made by spreading a cottage cheese filling over flattened dough, then rolling and boiling before slicing and serving with a mixed mushroom sauce and very good they were too.

I was offered a masterclass, but as we are leaving tomorrow, it will have to wait! The finale was a plate of cake pops, made by the grand-daughter Katja, undoubtedly following in the family footsteps …

… and then the sun set.

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The Solčava Panoramic Road

We both got a great night’s sleep and after omelettes for breakfast, we set out on the Solčava Panoramic road, a tourist route taking in the best views of the local landscape.

It didn’t take long before I caught sight of an orchid and we stopped to snap the huge mix of flowers by the road … oh and this not so little chap!

The road continued with information boards explaining viewpoints and telling of the local farms and produce available, each marked with a very friendly looking dragon.

Any why … well, once upon a time, Matkov kot was a lake and Lintver the mighty dragon lived nearby. Cows would graze along the lake, but when they got too close, Lintver would create waves so strong that they were swept into the water so he could eat them. There was a large rock at the lake which Lintver slowly pecked away, causing a huge flood which was so great that the water reached as high as the doorstep of the church at Solčava. What is more, the water also carried to the church doorstep a crib containing a child.

The flooding lake also carried away Lintver who was killed by the tops of a larch tree, the only thing capable of killing the mighty dragon. The dragon’s bones and jaw were later discovered in the fields throughout the Logar Valley.

From the Pastirkovo lookout we could see right along Matkov Kot.

There was also a chilled vending machine selling a variety of pork products and strudel from the nearby farm.

The next lookout revealed the Logar Valley far below … and some interesting forestry behind!

The Holy Spirit Church can be seen from several points along the road, but was unfortunately not open.

Soon we had reached the village of Solčava and we went into the Rinka Centre for information and to see their exhibitions about life in the area. We asked about the chance of a felting workshop which I’d read about, especially after seeing the wonderful felting on display …

… and while we had coffee, it was all arranged! I met Špela in her studio and she was happy to show me how to make a piece of felt from local wool, which had come from the jezersko-solčavska sheep. It is a very therapeutic process to gently work the soapy water into the wool and the rubbing slowly causes the wool fibres to mat together and make a firm fabric.

This can then be decorated and I was even able to use a local stone, felt wool round it, and add it to my piece. I plan to find a stick during my time here so I can mount it on the wall when I get home, an impression of mountains as a souvenir of our trip. Many thanks to Špela Orešnik for such a lovely afternoon, chatting and creating together.

I caught up with Chris, who had spent the afternoon pottering and photographing and found him in a cafe tucking into jam filled pancakes and coffee as an afternoon snack … so obviously joined him!

Chris suggested I took a look at the church, St Mary of the Snows, a C13 gothic church which was unfortunately closed …

… so we didn’t see this fresco on Lintver at the feet of St Christopher.

… then took a sneak preview into the Logar Valley on the way past, but the clouds were low and we decided to save it for tomorrow …

… apart from this small church, Chapel of Christ the King designed by Martin Golob based on ideas by Jože Plečnik.

Another quiet evening with a delicious dinner – goulash for me and fried cheese and veg for Chris with salad and a dessert of pancakes stuffed with cream cheese and raisins.

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