Next morning was clear and I asked where the best place was to spot Mount Triglav and we were directed to the pretty bridge in the centre of Stara Fužina where I got a perfect shot! We thought this was a great place to end as we drove off towards the airport.
It’s always strange knowing how to spend the day with an evening flight, but we used the time by taking a mountain detour through Pokljuka with some lovely views but no safe stopping places. We also saw men wearing what looked like skis on rollers making their way quite fast up the road carrying ski poles.
A little later we had pulled over the check the map and a van pulled up with Team Germany on the side, and then the man leading in a yellow jersey came to a stop to get water. We found out that this was Benedict Doll, a German biathlete and winner of a couple of Olympic medals. I had to Google the biathlon to understand this is a winter sport combining cross country skiing and rifle shooting in a race, and this was summer practice!
Anyway, that’s really the end, nothing more to report as we wait at the gate for our delayed EasyJet flight home, munching complimentary breadsticks!
As they say here … zelo dobro … which means very good … and everything has been, with friendly people, beautiful scenery and great food so we feel sure we will pay another visit.
Not quite sure when we will be off travelling together again as there is nothing planned … yet!
Today I walked from the bridge to Ukanc, along the footpath than runs close to the northern shore. It was very peaceful …
… with lots of wildflowers…
… and views of the lake and mountains …
… including for the eager eyed, the Vogel cable car.
Towards the end, the path crossed the Sava Bohinjka river …
… then in Ukanc, I met Chris who had come by boat. I had a swim to cool off followed by coffee and we took the boat back together.
Next stop was the Vogel Ski Centre so we could take the cable car on a 4 minute ride to 1535m.
The views down and across the lake were great …
… and we could see Mount Triglav, the tallest peak in the National Park which is just to the left of the cable in this shot.
After having a look round …
… we took the chairlift still higher, to 1670m …
… and then back down again!
We stopped for a swim stop on the way home where even Chris had a paddle! The shore of the lake is quite stony all round so getting in is hard on the feet … especially without the water shoes we left at home!!
On our way back we stopped at the Alpine Museum …
… which gave the history of cheese making in the area, learned from a Swiss chap from Emmental so the local cheese is of a similar style.
The curator of the museum was so enthusiastic and informative that it really made the history come to life. It must have been hard, taking cattle to mountain pastures and living in a hut on your own for several months before returning with your herd to your family before the winter.
It’s no surprise that this way of life pretty much died out, but more recently, young people are returning to the old ways now that there is a premium for organic products and tourism and we bought some cheese to take home.
Our last night in Slovenia and we returned to Gostilna Bohinj, the local restaurant where we have eaten every evening.
Tonight’s meal was just as good, an amazing mushroom pizza for Chris, complete with fresh porcini, and tenderloin of pork for me with štruklji and mustard sauce…
… together with the recommended local red, with Mount Triglav and Zlatorog, the golden horned chamois on the label.
I heard another thunderstorm in the night with the rumbles echoing round the mountains while the rain came down hard, and when I looked out, the morning was misty and cooler with cloud hanging in the valley and the promise of a mixed day so we settled on exploring.
Breakfast was a spread of beautifully presented cold cuts and cheese, eggs cooked to order and bread with homemade jam.
I walked down through the village to the lake …
… and met Chris who had driven. The church by the bridge is dedicated to St John the Baptist with a scary wooden decapitated head on a plate just inside the entrance dating to the C14th, which used to be worshipped by those with head or neck complaints.
Outside there is a medieval porch with a square painted coffers on the ceiling and paved with round river stones dating to 1639.
The St Christopher on the outer wall was common in the Middle Ages as people believed they would not die a sudden death during the day if they had looked trustingly at an image of St Christopher in the morning.
Inside was richly decorated with frescos …
…. the earliest from the C13th being this one of St John the Evangelist.
The richest in the presbytery dated to the C15th such as George and the dragon …
… Mary and Christ with apostles below …
… the baptism of Christ …
… the ceiling with a boss of Christ with angels and evangelists …
… and angels holding a curtain all around the lower wall.
The bell tower was there to be climbed and naturally gave a view of the lake.
We were surprised how quickly the temperature had risen, but after all that rain, it was humid too. We continued to Studor where we looked round one of the three museums included with our tourist card, Oplen House, a traditional local house built in the early C19th.
The story of the family who lived there for the last century before it was abandoned in 1974 brought it to life, together with the household effects and furniture still there.
So now I have to talk hayracks, which we have been spotting since our first day in Slovenia. Often there isn’t a safe place to stop and take photos, so we saw loads before we had pics. To begin with we thought they were for drying crops …
but then we saw them used to stack and keep firewood dry.
Later we saw more complex racks combined to make a kind of barn …
… and then today we finally saw them used for drying hay!
The next museum on the list was shut for lunch so we had a coffee and watched as the sky darkened and a few drops of rain fell. The museum hadn’t reopened, so we headed back to the lake, along very wet roads, which just shows how localised the showers are, and continued along the side of the lake to the second church on the lake. There are a couple of stories about the building of The Church of the Holy Spirit in 1743, one that it was part of three vows made by farmers on the advice of a monk after three years of poor harvest because of a worm and the other that it was advised by the Pope to end the drought, hence a roof like a camel’s back!
And it has a St Christopher on the outside wall too!
There was a small wooden dock by the lake …
… and a perfect spot to go for a swim before catching the panoramic boat for our daily trip.
By the time I’d walked back to the guesthouse, I felt I’d got my steps in, good job with the huge plates of dinner they serve here like my Kranjska klobasa, served in the traditional way with potatoes, sauerkraut and mustard.
It was a short hop from one lake to another as we left Bled and drove to Bohinj (another silent j!). Despite being only 25km apart, the atmosphere is completely different … Bled is a bit smarter and more sophisticated, while Bohinj has a relaxed rustic charm of its own.
We are staying with Tanja and her family at Rooms Pekovek in the village of Stara Fužina, near to the lake.
She welcomed us with peach schnapps made by her mother and told us how we could make the most of our visit. Being within the Triglav National Park, there is a real push to be as green as possible here, so we bought the tourist card that enables parking in designated spots and free use of public transport, including a daily return trip on the electric panoramic boat which runs up and down the lake almost silently. It seemed like the perfect way to get our bearings so we headed for the lake.
While we waited for the next boat we looked around. The iconic views of Lake Borhinj either include the church and the bridge or Zlatorog, the golden horned chamois of Slovenian folklore. Even the summary of the tale is complicated, suffice to say it includes a handsome hunter, a beautiful girl, a couple of rivals, the chamois, magic flowers and an unfortunate ending!
Once aboard, a brief commentary explained it is a glacially formed lake basin holding almost 100 million cubic metres of water and that the flow through the lake is so great that the water replaces itself three times a year.
It’s about 1km wide and just over 4km long and took 30 minutes to reach the far end at Ukanc, which legend says comes from ‘u konc’, which is said to mean the end of the world.
There is a campsite and water sport centre and a 10 minute stop before the boat returned, although we could have stayed longer.
It was very warm when we got back so we parked close to the lake and I took a swim while Chris took photos. It was like the best infinity pool, with barely a ripple and what a view!
The sky had been darkening for a while but by the time I’d got out and changed, the first drops of rain fell.
We joined others sheltering under a tree and to begin with, we just saw it as a photo op.
After a while through, the rain got heavier and the tree no longer provided any shelter …
… so we decided to make for the car park as quickly as we were able, trying to keep our bag of stuff as dry as possible. Some hope! The rain was torrential, but I got to shelter under a roof overhang while Chris went for the car. As we drove back there were hailstones the size of golf balls so I’m glad we weren’t cycling, Back at the guesthouse, wet and chilly, we proceeded to wring the water from our clothes as we took them off. We struggled to remember an occasion when we had been so wet! The storm eventually passed, and we walked to the local (inn/restaurant) for dinner. Apart from a couple of swanky hotels, it was the only place to eat in the village, so everyone was there … couples young and old, families and groups of friends. We shared our table with a couple of Belgian girls as it was so busy. I had venison goulash and Chris chose pizza although both portions were so large, we could have shared a dinner!
Fortunately the rain held off all evening so we got back safely without another drenching.
Awake early again, with another hot day expected, I was up and out quickly as I wanted to walk round the lake and climb Ojstrica, the hill overlooking the lake. It took twenty minutes to get to the base and maybe the same to get the first good view across to the island. I did start to climb further to the seat at the viewpoint, but it seemed some way further and the path was quite steep and rooty. Mindful I was there on my own, and I was very hot, I decided I was pleased with the photo I had, so made my descent.
I returned the same way I came and got this shot of the island with the steps from the shore.
Another delicious and leisurely breakfast followed and we decided to take a short drive to Radovljica. We took care to follow the parking instructions …
… then headed into the old town centre where we found a selection of preserved buildings, some with frescos, others with quirky architectural features and interesting metalwork.
The church had a beautifully painted ceiling and a collection of embroidered vestments on display.
We stopped at one of the cafes for iced drinks before returning to the guesthouse and relaxing in the garden until the lunchtime heat subsided.
Now time for a real treat! There has been a chairlift to the Straža ski slope since 1954 and today it caters for both winter skiers and summer hikers, as well as those like us who want the thrill of whizzing down by summer toboggan!
We decided one go wouldn’t be enough, so bought a ticket for two runs, once to get the measure of it and the second to maximise the potential! We got chatting with another couple, Emerson and Vee, who are travelling round Europe from the US having finished college and they decided to have a go too. So the first step is the chairlift up …
… the photo at the top …
… getting aboard …
… and whizzing down!
Lovely to chat with Emerson and Vee and thanks for taking pics which we look forward to sharing … safe travels to you both!
When Chris read that Restaurant Central Bled leave their pizza dough to rise for at least 48 hours, he said it definitely needed a visit, although with tankards of draught Lasko, I took the opportunity to try the spicy Kranjska klobasa, a local sausages, served grilled with sauces and potatoes.
It was a good decision as dinner was great, and we took a final look at the lake before returning to bed … tomorrow we move on.
Next day I was up early and started walking the 6km circuit of the lake by 7.15, joining a collection of walker, runners, cyclists and dog walkers all with the same idea, keen to exercise before it got too hot.
I chose to go clockwise and the first section of path was parallel to the road, and slowly Bled island got closer!
The road then takes a different route leaving just the path to follow the lake round, past the campsite and the rowing centre and back towards the castle.
I was surprised to see water lilies and behind is the Straza slope, but more about that tomorrow!
I had worked up quite an appetite when I got back at 8.30 and so was delighted to see such an array on the breakfast buffet!
The homemade smoothies, and cream cheese with smoked fish were particularly delicious as was having fruit and salad for breakfast as it’s been a challenge to get our 5-a-day … but there was also cake!
One of the must-do activities here is to take a pletna boat to the island in the lake. These are flat bottomed wooden boats which originally carried pilgrims but today take tourists.
The boatman uses two long oars to propel the boat across the water so the crossing is steady and peaceful, with plenty of time to relax and enjoy the view.
We moored at the South Staircase and climbed the 99 steps …
… to a small square with the Provost’s House …
… and the gothic Church of the Assumption …
… which was lavishly decorated inside.
The freestanding bell tower is 52m and while views from the top are limited …
… it houses an interesting pendulum clock and is very noisy when the bell chimes 12.00!
We then realised we hadn’t seen the wishing bell, and when we asked, found it had been right in front of us, a rope hanging down in the church … so I pulled and wished!
The pletna waits to takes us back …
… with some of the boatmen just chilling, many of them descended directly from the original 22 families who were given a charter by the Queen in the C18 to ferry pilgrims.
On our return, the temperature had risen, and at 30°, the best plan seemed to be to relax in the shade so we went to Grajska beach, the public lido just below castle rock where we were able to hire sun beds and an umbrella. I swam in the lake and it wasn’t as cold as I expected, perfect to cool down, then soaked up some rays a bit later when it cooled.
We had reserved a table at The Old Cellar for dinner, as recommended by the guesthouse, and were shown to our table in a lovely outdoor space. After sharing a salad to start, Chris had dumplings with beetroot and trout with potato salad.
We walked back reflecting on what a lovely time we were having in Slovenia.
The road to Bled took us over a mountain pass, which just happens to be in Austria, so we crossed the border at an unmanned post … bye bye Slovenia …
… hello Austria …
… but we were there for less than an hour, before returning to Slovenia! The views were amazing!
A short drive took us to Lake Bled and we found Penzion Mayer and checked in.
It is family run and surrounded by lovely gardens, set just above the lake in a group of other similar guesthouses and we are here for three days.
Getting our priorities straight, we went in search of the Park Cafe and a piece of Kremna Rezina, the famous Bled cream cake. It was developed by their pastry chef, Ištvan Lukačević in 1953 … the same vintage as Chris! The subsequent marketing campaign made it not only the symbol of the hotel’s cafe, but the symbol of Bled with over 15 million slices having been sold.
Everything is prepared under the guidance of the lucky number seven. The puff pastry is folded seven times and then left to rest overnight before baking and cooling again. The egg custard is cooked for seven minutes. Cooled, coated in a delicately sweetened layer of whipped cream, and dusted with powdered sugar, each cake is then cut into a perfect seven-by-seven centimeter square.
Crispy pastry, wobbly custard, whipped cream topped with icing sugar and a lakeside view … fab!
We took a drive round the lake to get our bearings and later had dinner in Restaurant Arbor, where the service was excellent. We shared a salad, then chose Polenta with Mushroom Sauce and Spinach and Cheese Ravioli which went perfectly with a Slovenian Pinot Grigio …
… and watched the sun set behind Bled Castle.
We had seen banners for the Nočna 10ka and during dinner, realised we had grandstand seats for this annual running race round the lake, which starts at 9.00 once it’s cooler.
I left Chris taking photos of runners, while I went for a walk. I found the lakeside path beset by clouds of midges, so stayed further back and admired from afar …
A breakfast of cold cuts which was a great start to the day, especially the oval sausage flecked with fat which is Klemenč želodec, a local speciality made in a pig’s stomach.
The Logar Valley has been designated a landscape park and there is a road and also a walking path that extends from the entrance … 7km to the Rinka Waterfall. The first section of the path was closed so we parked a bit further in, by the Palenk Waterfall.
I left Chris taking photos, while I set off walking.
I came across alpine strawberries, now you see them …
… now you don’t!
The path wound from one side of the road to another, through shady woods with beech and birch. Around halfway, there was a cafe and I tried to contact Chris to suggest he meet me there for a drink, but I couldn’t get a signal. As I drew closer, low and behold, there he was drinking coffee and surprised to see me! After a cold drink I set off again and highlights included butterflies …
and donkeys …
… but there weren’t really any views until towards the end, when the path crossed the empty watercourse which would be full during the spring thaw.
Almost at the final car park, I saw the waterfall through the trees …
but there was a final climb to get the best view.
There was also a tree with its roots completely wrapped round a rock for support and a fellow walker insisted I should have a photo with it! It was a good walk which took 2hrs, and I certainly thought it was longer than 5kms!
Chris was waiting in the car park and we drove back through the park, passing several tourist farms offering accommodation and snacks, and quite a swanky hotel with a swimming pool.
There are two smaller valleys here too, one either side of Logar so we went to take a look. We found we couldn’t drive far along Robanov Kot, but it would have been great to hike along another time.
Matkov Kot would also been better to hike, but we drove a short way down a rough track as far as Matk farm, where we were promised excellent goat milk ice cream.
Not only was my honey and Chris’s tarragon ice cream delicious …
but we saw the goats being milked …
… and the beekeeper tending the hives.
Back to the guesthouse and time for a shower before dinner. For the first time, it was a beautiful evening and we could enjoy the mountains lit by evening rays against a blue sky.
We dined on asparagus soup, salad and then local dumplings. These were made by spreading a cottage cheese filling over flattened dough, then rolling and boiling before slicing and serving with a mixed mushroom sauce and very good they were too.
I was offered a masterclass, but as we are leaving tomorrow, it will have to wait! The finale was a plate of cake pops, made by the grand-daughter Katja, undoubtedly following in the family footsteps …
We both got a great night’s sleep and after omelettes for breakfast, we set out on the Solčava Panoramic road, a tourist route taking in the best views of the local landscape.
It didn’t take long before I caught sight of an orchid and we stopped to snap the huge mix of flowers by the road … oh and this not so little chap!
The road continued with information boards explaining viewpoints and telling of the local farms and produce available, each marked with a very friendly looking dragon.
Any why … well, once upon a time, Matkov kot was a lake and Lintver the mighty dragon lived nearby. Cows would graze along the lake, but when they got too close, Lintver would create waves so strong that they were swept into the water so he could eat them. There was a large rock at the lake which Lintver slowly pecked away, causing a huge flood which was so great that the water reached as high as the doorstep of the church at Solčava. What is more, the water also carried to the church doorstep a crib containing a child.
The flooding lake also carried away Lintver who was killed by the tops of a larch tree, the only thing capable of killing the mighty dragon. The dragon’s bones and jaw were later discovered in the fields throughout the Logar Valley.
From the Pastirkovo lookout we could see right along Matkov Kot.
There was also a chilled vending machine selling a variety of pork products and strudel from the nearby farm.
The next lookout revealed the Logar Valley far below … and some interesting forestry behind!
The Holy Spirit Church can be seen from several points along the road, but was unfortunately not open.
Soon we had reached the village of Solčava and we went into the Rinka Centre for information and to see their exhibitions about life in the area. We asked about the chance of a felting workshop which I’d read about, especially after seeing the wonderful felting on display …
… and while we had coffee, it was all arranged! I met Špela in her studio and she was happy to show me how to make a piece of felt from local wool, which had come from the jezersko-solčavska sheep. It is a very therapeutic process to gently work the soapy water into the wool and the rubbing slowly causes the wool fibres to mat together and make a firm fabric.
This can then be decorated and I was even able to use a local stone, felt wool round it, and add it to my piece. I plan to find a stick during my time here so I can mount it on the wall when I get home, an impression of mountains as a souvenir of our trip. Many thanks to Špela Orešnik for such a lovely afternoon, chatting and creating together.
I caught up with Chris, who had spent the afternoon pottering and photographing and found him in a cafe tucking into jam filled pancakes and coffee as an afternoon snack … so obviously joined him!
Chris suggested I took a look at the church, St Mary of the Snows, a C13 gothic church which was unfortunately closed …
… so we didn’t see this fresco on Lintver at the feet of St Christopher.
… then took a sneak preview into the Logar Valley on the way past, but the clouds were low and we decided to save it for tomorrow …
… apart from this small church, Chapel of Christ the King designed by Martin Golob based on ideas by Jože Plečnik.
Another quiet evening with a delicious dinner – goulash for me and fried cheese and veg for Chris with salad and a dessert of pancakes stuffed with cream cheese and raisins.
Having picked up the car, we were lured into the first small village we passed to photograph the church with the mountains behind. All the houses were tidy and beautifully kept with window boxes spilling with flowers and neat piles of wood drying for the winter.
Love the small cups of coffee served with a glass of water.
Our drive was leisurely as we soaked up the views on the way, but stopping places were scarce and there will be plenty of photo ops later.
The road followed the valley, then climbed with hairpin bends before levelling out again to run along a high valley, through the village of Solčava and on to our pension, Planinski Dom Majerhold. Very fitting for the name to mean Mountain Home Majerhold as we found a huddle of wooden chalets set into the hillside at 1150m, surrounded by flowers and with mountains all around. When I realised this glacial valley is almost as high as the highest peak in the British Isles it certainly but it into better perspective for me.
Here is our chalet where we have the upstairs room which is very comfortable.
Our balcony is perfect for relaxing and takes in a view of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. It is dominated by Ojsterica, the tallest peak at 2350m, with Križevnik on the left and a collection of smaller peaks on the right, all of which stand as guardians over the Logar Valley concealed between.
We spent the afternoon enjoying our surroundings, and I even joined a small group on the grass doing yoga. All we could hear was birdsong and the background buzz of others sitting out and chatting as we shared a beer and made a bit of a plan for tomorrow.
Dinner was simple but delicious, a local barley soup, pork and cheesy courgette from the grill with roast potatoes and salad then apple strudel to finish, which we ate sitting outside overlooking the mountains.
Off Travelling Together 