Today we set off on Walk 26 from our guidebook, a 5 mile walk round Monte Cofano which lies between Trapani and Capo San Vito.
What a fabulous walk, starting with a steady climb to the saddle where the Monte joins on to the headland, during which there is a view back to Erice …
… then over the top and there is a panorama of the Golfo del Cofano ahead.
Our descent was via an old zig zag mule track to a 17C watchtower built to protect the tuna plant from Turkish invasion.
Apparently, not that I have read it, Virgil recounts in his Aeneid how Aeneas organised a boat race to the rock jutting out of the sea – seems amazing that a poem of around 20BC mentions a rock you can still see! A little further and we were caught in a shower, but Chris remembered his boy scout training and brought a bag to keep his camera dry!
The path then took us round the hill, where there are still remains of old farming terraces, but fan palms, huge grasses and wildflowers have taken the place of vineyards and orchards.
There was a shrine to St Nicholas di Bari, the patron saint of fishermen and sailors.
Legend says that a couple on their way to be married were killed by an avalanche here, and the bride’s veil can be seen floating in the sea, reminding us of this sad tale.
Further on there was a chapel and then another watchtower …
Cows ambivalent to the interest from paparazzi tourists!
And then we were back to the start. It took around 4 hours, but we took lots of photos and stopped to eat the almond dolci we bought the day before for energy!
We drove on, catching a view of the extensive marble quarries and a view back to Monte Cofano.
Stopping briefly at San Vito de Capo we came across a kite festival …
Then continued to our final stop in Castelllammare del Golfo, stopping to admire the mist coming in and to find another room with a sea view.
Now, if you remember, Chris was relieved of his wallet at the football in Palermo. Well, a couple of days later the police found it, minus the cash of course, and he had cancelled the credit cards, but the other bits including the driving licence were still in it, so today we drove to the police station, thankfully on the outskirts of Palermo, to retrieve it.
We visited the final ruins of our trip, those at Segesta. If you remember, this had been the town squabbling with Selinunte and got it sacked. Anyway it has a 5C BC temple on the top of one hill which was never finished, but the columns still all stand, together with the entablature and pediment, so it looks pretty impressive …
… and a 3C BC theatre on top of another hill where they still put on events but the only show when we were there was the view of the A29 snaking across the valley.
Later we relaxed on the beach near Castellammare and watched the mist again …
On our last day we drove to the Zingaro Nature Reserve, catching a great view of Castellammare on the way.
In 1980, there was a successful local protest against government plans to build a coast road and Sicily’s first nature reserve was born. The day was bright and sunny and we walked from the southern entrance near Scopello, entering through the tunnel that had been constructed for the proposed road.
We walked passed several bays with a photo opportunity at every turn up to Cala dell’Uzzo …
… then walked back, stopping at Cala della Capreria for a swim and picnic.
On the way back we stopped at Scopello, both at the old tuna fishery protected by ruined watchtowers on the coast, and the town above with its central courtyard, old buildings and water trough.
Last night tonight and then a drive to Palermo airport in the morning.
I hope you’ve enjoyed our Sicilian Soggiorno as much as we have, particularly the wonderful wildflowers which we saw everywhere and made a particular impression on us … and Chris’s hayfever! Time to go home now so thanks for sticking with the blog, it’s been great having you along!
Arrivederci!
Having driven down the salt road, we entered Trapani by the port and old town, situated on a curved spit of land like a sickle for which the town is named. Running like a spine down the centre is the very grand Corso Vittorio Emanuele, studded with fancy shops and fine Baroque facades.
Unfortunately another grey day as we left and drove to the Cave di Cusa, the quarry which was used for stone for Selininte temples and abandoned after the city was sacked. It still has partly cut columns, which stand as they were left.
We have woken to grey skies and drizzle. The road has taken us past a chimney for a ceramic factory, a thriving industry locally, and into a patchwork of farmland, including vines, and having got a little lost in Menfi, we came across a very high class vintners selling wine in a plastic bottle for 2 euros a litre!
We stopped briefly at the ruins at Eraclea Minoa, enjoying the view out to sea more than the site as very little was uncovered or explained except a theatre which was covered to prevent further weathering.
Today we drove from the north coast to the south coast. We started on a minor road, most of which have the odd broken edge, buckle or pothole …
As we left Pettralia Sottana, we got a great view of the town.
Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans and the Spanish …. they have all spent time in Sicily and left their mark on the architecture, customs, food and language and here we are in Palermo, gateway to the melting pot, ready to explore.
Unfortunately, as Chris went to get his wallet for ID for the tickets, he found it missing and we suspect in the crush to enter the grounds, it found a new owner. Rather than watch the match and worry, we spent the next hour with the Carabinieri reporting our loss, then returned to the B&B to cancel the cards. We are not disheartened, they didn’t win, it was just a draw, reports Chris bravely!
Off Travelling Together 