Rangeley … Viewpoints!

Hope, Unity, Washington, Jefferson, Windsor, Chelsea, Augusta, Belgrade, Rome, Farmington, Strong, Phillips … no this is not a quiz question … these are the towns we passed on our drive just of around 100 miles inland. We took a few pics on the way and the leaves were certainly getting more colourful.

We kept our eyes peeled for moose …

… crossed the long distance Appalachian Trail …

… and stopped at Smalls Falls to stretch our legs.

Finally we reached Rangeley, which according to the sign on Main Street is equidistant from the North Pole and the Equator.

It has always been a resort, served in 1900 by the railroad and steamboats, bringing people to fish the spectacularly named Mooselookmeguntic Lake. Today there is year round appeal with fishing, hunting, boating, off-roading and skiing.

The first viewpoint was overlooking Rangeley Lake as we drove into town.

We are staying in the very lovely Rangeley Inn which was first opened in 1877 but has since been moved and expanded and recently restored.

To take advantage of the last of the light we drove up Quill Hill to their 360° viewpoint. The top has been cleared and you can see in every direction – well worth the $10 toll to drive to the top!

You can see Rangeley Lake in the distance in this last one.

returning to town, here is Haley Pond behind the hotel.

Next day we drove the scenic route all the way round Rangeley Lake taking a few pics and making a couple of stops.

Bald Mountain offered a family-friendly hike of 1.3 mile each way, with an ascent of 930ft.

The guidebook suggests wearing orange in hunting season so not to be mistaken for a moose, and Pippin was dressed up for his hike, but we were told not to worry on such a popular route.

The trail started easily enough with a gravel path …

… slowly became tougher with tree roots and stones …

… then having lulled us into a false sense of security, from around halfway became a rocky scramble to the summit … but we made it!

The 360° viewpoint at the top of the fire tower was much more rewarding for having got there under our own steam!

The last viewpoint was at the Height of Land Overlook, but by now it was a little overcast.

… and here’s Rangeley Lake again!

Dee in the gift shop recommended The Hungry Trout – Come Hungry, Leave Happy – and we did, on both evenings! Chris had exhausted the veggie options with mac ‘n’ cheese on the first night but Brian cooked up Asian Tofu just for him while the Saturday night prime rib was to die for.

Tomorrow we leave Maine and head to New Hampshire.

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Camden … More Lighthouses!

We drove northwards … first up was Eartha, the world’s largest rotating and revolving globe at the DeLorme mapping corporation in Yarmouth. It’s huge… hello Joanna!

Next was the Desert of Maine, a 40 acre expanse of glacial silt which has been a tourist attraction in Freeport since 1925. This became exposed in the C19th through soil erosion when the Tuttle family failed to rotate their crops then over grazed the land, eventually overtaking the whole farm. It has been preserved as a curiosity but slowly vegetation is becoming established once more and covering the sand.

I hadn’t heard of LLBean, but this store was founded in 1912 by its namesake, hunter and fisherman Leon Leonwood Bean in Freeport. Today there is a huge shopping campus open 24hrs daily selling clothing and equipment for every outdoors pursuit imaginable.

Just as we were feeling peckish we saw a huge lobster and had to stop! I had a cup of lobster stew, but I have to admit, having had Maine lobster twice now, that I would still prefer a crab sandwich any day!

All along this part of the coast fingers of land stretch into the sea. We took a detour down to the end of Pemaquid Point to visit the lighthouse, which was looking splendid against the blue sky in the sunshine.

Moody’s diner had been recommended to us by Christopher in Gloucester who said their choice of pies had to be seen to be believed … and he was right! I chose a four berry pie, while Chris opted for the peanut butter cream pie … a deliciously indulgent afternoon treat for us both … thanks Christopher!

Just a little further and we reached Camden, where we had booked a room at the Towne Motel which has been welcoming guests since 1955.It was great to be able to take a short walk into the village for dinner and eat at the Seadog Brewing Co and in the morning breakfast was served in the parlor of the original 1853 house.

We thought we might start with the Mount Battie viewpoint in Camden State Park, but one look out of the window and we realised the summit was shrouded in mist … another grey day in Maine! Instead we headed down the St George Peninsular, catching views along the way.

Marshall Point Lighthouse is at the bottom and has a wooden runway linking the light with the keepers house which makes for a great photo op.

We also took a detour from Spruce Head to Spruce Head Island …

… and stopped at Owls Head Lighthouse accessed by a short walk through the State Park.

The next lighthouse required a little more energy, as Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse is at the end of the breakwater, almost a mile in length, and boy was it blowy!

Last stop for the day was at Rockport, with a small harbour and a statue of Andre the Seal.

The sunshine is back so this is the view from the top of Mt Battie in Camden State Park towards Camden …

… and out to Penobscot Bay.

Changing direction, we are now heading inland to Rangeley.

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Portland … Lighthouses!

After the fabulously sunny day yesterday, today is grey as we set out north on Highway 1, passing very familiar places in a very unfamiliar order – Essex, Ipswich, Newbury, Salisbury, Amesbury, Rye, Portsmouth, York! Along the way there was marshy sort of land on the coast side, small towns with clapperboard buildings in a range of Farrow & Ball colours and drizzle for much of the day. Despite this, we’ve noticed a few changing leaves along the way

… and a change in the license plate logos from Spirit of America in Massachusetts to Live Free in New Hampshire and now Vacationland in Maine.

We took a detour on the coast road to the Nubble Lighthouse which was undergoing refurbishment, so was not looking its best.

This dramatic coastline has attracted artists who have congregated in several artists colonies in the early C20th, one being in Ogunqit and we stopped to look round their museum, but actually found the sculpture garden more appealing.

We drove a way on the I-95, then took another detour to Cape Elizabeth to see her lighthouse

… and further round the headland to see Portland Head Lighthouse at the entrance to the harbour at Portland, the most impressive so far.

Portland is the largest city in Maine and we are staying at Inn on St John, which was built in 1897 to accommodate passengers arriving by railroad at Union Station. It is very Victorian and very quaint, with comfy beds and another great breakfast.

The morning dawned just as miserable, but dry at least, and we wandered into town, first through the Arts quarter, where we would have visited the Portland Art Museum but when we found the one Hopper was not on show we saved our money and spent it on a lovely piece of Campbell Pottery for our new kitchen instead.

We passed a Richardson Romanesque church …

… a mini flat iron

… a very colourful lighthouse …

… evidence of another Freedom Trail …

… and a red Mini … sorry Longfellow’s House …

… together with one of his rhymes.

Time for another boat trip, this time to see some of Maine’s finest lighthouses, if we can find them through the mist and drizzle.

So there was Portland Harbour Breakwater Light, affectionately called Bug Light as it is cute as a bug …

… Spring Point Ledge Light …

… and a distant Portland Head Lighthouse we saw yesterday.

We took a bit of a turn round Casco Bay which has 137 islands although only a few are inhabited.

On the way we saw several coloured buoys. Maine is famed for its lobster as they come into the warm shallow water to shed their shells every year or two. Lobster fishermen are registered for up to 800 traps which they mark with personal coloured coded buoys. The traps have two parts and the ‘kitchen’ is baited with smelly herring and when the lobster moves into the ‘parlour’ it is trapped. The fishermen check and rebait their traps every few days but release any breeding females or males that are too large or small. A lobster is 5-7 years old before it is the legal minimum to harvest at about 1lb in weight. You only get around 20% meat from a cooked lobster so this gives 3oz meat, and a lobster roll with around 3oz lobster will be $10-20 depending where you eat, so still a treat even in lobster central.

There was also a tiny lighthouse in a garden, which is lit nightly by the owners, but hasn’t quite made it onto the lighthouse register.

So Pizza Villa opposite the inn is a local institution – one side is a pizza parlour with family friendly booths and the other is a bar with pints of local IPA, a nice little merlot, fab tunes and 5 screens showing football on a Monday and a ball game in a Tuesday … I know this because with the wet weather we ate there both nights and Chris was in Pizza heaven!

Tomorrow the forecast is better and we drive further north.

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