Mudumalai and the Elephant’s Bottom

We drove through tea plantations and saw ladies picking tea at the side of the road on our way to our next homestay, which was over the border into Tamil Nadu.

The third homestay was The Wilds at Northern Hay, another homestay on a coffee plantation, but this time on the edge of Mudumalai Forest. We were picked up by jeep as the road was rough!

We sat watching black faced langur monkeys playing in the garden.

We went for a plantation walk in the afternoon, a jeep safari in the early evening and a forest trek in the morning and we saw more deer, peacocks, wild boar, a giant squirrel, a flame-backed woodpecker, malabar and plum-headed paraqueets, a chestnut-headed bee-eater …

… and finally the back of a retreating elephant, but because we were on foot, it would have been dangerous to pursue him and he didn’t stop to have his pic taken!

Next stop, Ooty.

Kalpetta and the Coffee Beans

Our second homestay was Aranyakam, a homestay in a Keralyan bungalow surrounded by a coffee plantation. The veranda was a perfect spot to settle with a book.

After lunch we drove to Kanthampara waterfall where we went walking, and was pretty, but not as dramatic as it would be with more water flowing.

We also went for a walk down the narrow road, passed coffee bushes and also saw the beans drying.

Another sunset and another day done.

Next stop, maybe elephants …

Edakkal and the Candlelit Cave

756AF99A-FC7D-400A-9AC4-C3805E87EACFLeaving Mysore, we were heading for four homestays over four nights.

Firstly we drove through the Bandipur National Park, to Edakkal where we climbed a steep path and loads of steps, to caves with prehistoric petroglyphs. There was a great view from the top across to Chembra Peak, and we passed macaque monkeys on the way down.

465241F8-F8EF-4FE6-B1B5-CF193D654997CDE61E91-8A83-4825-8EDB-174D71069E2C31C3FACD-D0C0-4E0E-A5F4-163B1ACC18E8

Our first homestay was at Edakkal Hermitage and our cottage ‘Chauvet’ had fabulous views …

FC0A8F84-A5D7-4A90-9AC8-BE686B2810AD756AF99A-FC7D-400A-9AC4-C3805E87EACF… and was a perfect spot to watch the sunset, followed later by dinner in a magical candlelit cave.

374A471D-1E98-4F75-BABD-7BF6093017E66BE31ADD-7214-488F-817C-549E4EC4BC5EWe began our day with a 7am safari in a jeep round Muthanga National Park, but unfortunately the elephants eluded us and the most impressive wildlife was a giant squirrel, peacock and cheetal deer …

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Here are a few miscellaneous snaps …

9845513D-1C9D-494B-87F7-7A5A9B48230146EBD434-0311-4A8F-889A-C2C6CA4B77CCB9F302FD-67DE-4E66-8B04-DE49B500B4FFD8E16C47-337D-496E-A8BF-B449CBC8B3F84C6497D4-70C0-4CAC-A862-253584B53285

0BC6C2E2-DE0A-49A8-BAA1-27BC7BDA304BF12E5196-5840-4C9F-B2FB-524DD37CFA8ANext stop, coffee plantations.

Mysore and the Magical Palace

927B4684-9228-4AE2-ADD7-5DC014E34FADWe stayed, no expense spared, at The Park Lane Hotel … for £25/night, nice room, and bustling terrace restaurant with sliding roof and good food.

Mysore’s greatest attraction is the palace, which looks stunning in the day time … and even more stunning lit up at night (but only at the weekend, and check the times).AB969CA2-7AB4-4B86-AE66-640EE95DB80ABB4F3F56-41F6-471C-B3CD-6189EC574642BC135827-0734-4500-BDAB-D214A477EEE0We climbed Chamundi Hill to the temple. According to legend, the demon Mahishasura was king of the area and was killed by the Goddess Chamundeswari after a fierce battle and there is a statue of him.

9D103DD5-80B3-4663-B258-D9C0D9441622860B989B-A1D1-497B-A7DC-DCB08B7850F931F52059-6FC1-4975-A1F9-3C9E0015517EThe temple might be very important religiously, but was singularly disappointing to view, but we were amazed at the huge numbers of people visiting, a bit like a rugby scrum.

CF8EA187-617B-4ADF-9769-8B709D34196688AF027E-6DFD-4B93-A300-D5CF5537C507F6EA8EDF-CE9E-489B-9B56-93713AEB3A88On the way down was a Nandi bull statue, and we saw our first monkeys.

BA55DE24-DB76-4DB8-9107-9217EB73DFB0BB44CB9C-F0C3-4916-B147-B09060C69E37One afternoon we went to Brindavan Gardens which were laid out when the dam was built, backdrop apparently to many a Bolleywood movie, which were lovely to wander round, but we didn’t stay for the musical lightshow as the road back was full of potholes and we didn’t fancy it after dark.

9BBB84FA-2ECF-4872-A889-71BDD8610D40C790FC86-A333-4C69-A8D6-ECAC077CD318CFC0ADAB-8E48-4FBD-9A52-7E6C43F548D70BD51D19-9216-483E-A054-3D117A64D68DFinally, we spent a lovely day nearby at Srirangapatum where the highlights were another of Tipu Sultan’s summer palaces, built of wood, with every inch covered in painted decoration, unfortunately no photos allowed, his tomb …

D1679923-7A69-4959-8032-1A26F15F0AE9CF9D40F7-BEFE-4790-8DC8-504308D2A6A0… and a Ranganathittu bird sanctuary, where we had a boat trip and saw crocs, bats, pelicans, storks, cormorants, spoonbills …

54EAAF04-31DA-4F5A-85A0-C33FA49F23C761075649-514A-465A-917A-524A39AA962E97F9DF4D-1C2A-4F7A-A43C-5E7205BB989C

8E674EB1-1212-4489-977E-C4022F839BA8One evening, rather than eating at Park Lane, we went to the Tiger Trail at the Royal Orchid Hotel for dinner. The restaurant is set in an open courtyard with trees and twinkly lights and looks very pretty. Service was friendly but rather slow, but this was more than made up for by the food which was delicious.

Leaving Mysore to continue south.

Hassan and the Hoysala Temples

77BC5E4C-9F39-420F-B55E-55305AC61651We then set off on an 8 day tour by car heading south.

8AD335CE-4DCE-484E-A03C-4FE2BAA1FB29First stop was a 57ft statue of Gommateshvara on a hill at Sravanabelagola. Every twelve years, thousands of devotees congregate to perform Mahamastakabhisheka, a ceremony where the statue is covered in milk, curds, ghee, saffron and gold coins, next to happen in 2018. We had to climb the 614 steps without shoes but could wear socks and there was a great view from the top.

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We then went to see the Chennakeshava temple at Belur which was completed in 1116 by Hoysala Vishnuvardhana. The temple is 37 meters tall and is standing on a platform which has fabulous art work on its outer walls and bracket figures of dancing girls in various poses in perfect proportion.

77BC5E4C-9F39-420F-B55E-55305AC61651BCEE6357-2218-4F8A-91D5-F73F4E3928BB3E6A9D9E-F70A-4792-965F-704BD428A42C

Afterwards, we went to Halebidu which has two Hindu temples, the Hoysaleshawara and Kedareshwara temples and two Jain shrines, a Nandi Bull protecting the temples and a big lake.

65E38AD6-9A1A-46B1-A218-2B9253F9549893DFACEA-DF30-4159-9ED3-BDA79FEBA30C6AECACB7-0C2F-4997-8DBD-F3A2CD2B6CFC0B43D547-83D3-46DE-A480-1B523CF12F2E0905BB3E-8DD7-4849-AD33-6F7504DE40537F9FFC05-388E-49D3-9FAB-07507900EC82D6A0B7AF-513F-421B-AC6B-A139A996D2296C4C28EB-17DB-4475-B978-2AF731920D66The interiors of both these temples was also fabulous, each carved pillar being different, and with sculpted ceilings, but they were quite dark and hard to photograph.

We spent the night in Hassan, then off to Mysore.

Bangalore and the Eiffel Tower

D95E091B-CA12-4122-BA73-5C377B76F0B9After sitting on the plane for two and a half hours at Delhi, finally we took off and arrived in Bangalore in the evening (a delay certainly, but nothing like the Punjab Mail Train which was 17 hours late into Delhi earlier in the week with Lorraine and her husband from Spalding).

We stayed at Casa Piccola, a restored 1915 heritage house that was once a boarding house for civil servants and amazingly a quiet green spot in the centre of the city.4EB0FE04-AA6A-4431-BF7B-8618F3DD1BD8Bangalore feels a more modern city than Delhi from the bits we’ve seen, with familiar landmarks … and unusual signs!

45F1A70D-DE27-45FA-9064-D03F2E37D2F2DA3E5827-B309-40A6-9D64-DBE3D9929E88We started on the trail of Banjamin and Katherine, firstly at Bangalore Palace, a victorian built gothic/tudor mansion which is home to the Mysore royal family, also the venue for B&K’s pre-wedding party in a huge flower adorned marquee, and film set for a Bollywood movie.

AE8205A0-B3FE-401D-8822-45166448E160E893EE7E-4252-4429-8BD9-B865AA69CE9BC9FBBA45-1B0A-4C63-85B2-298E7449550AA392F7A7-CECF-4F25-AEF9-8CAEB2978827We then bumped into B&K again at St Mark’s Cathedral for the wedding, and caught a glimpse of Katherine in a meringue and the guests in stunning saris. The church was full of guests, with the same number again seated outside watching on a tv screen.

AD3BC99D-3ED4-4BC7-A568-39FC7ECF44E694D0C5EF-DBEA-46AD-9E65-218AB30E7750We also saw the Nandi Bull temple, built by the founder of Bangalore in the 16th century, with one of the largest Nandi statues inside … and nandi in Sanskrit means joyful …

AB416162-976C-4040-96BE-EA5D1854965A… the Tipu Sultans Summer Palace …

46B9CF59-3D6B-42BD-B6D6-FE9B29D73672… and the city market where the flowers are sold by the yard or the pound …

8CBF9504-D529-4B3A-845E-6FEC3AF98DA37CF98433-EA48-4066-B426-07799D8B2DA7

… and leaves by the bundle!

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And finally the Lalbagh Gardens flower show or could we be in Paris?

1CF4407B-8B2A-4A6A-8B07-CE55E72F7282D95E091B-CA12-4122-BA73-5C377B76F0B9Next stop Hassan.

Delhi and the Largest Hindu Temple

file-94a6f6b9-c9f8-47d7-9775-db50b13e197b-12285-000004f8d651237fWe arrived safely and spent two days in Delhi. The Homestay is great, and Meera has looked after us really well – cooked us dinner, taken us out for dosas and showed us where to shop!

AAED96C2-CE56-43E1-AC2F-3BAC3243EA5EAs we have been to Delhi before, our sightseeing didn’t follow the usual route.  Starting with the ‘new’, we went to the largest Hindu temple in the world which was completed in 2005 … the temple is supported by 148 elephants round the plinth, and there is also a robotic history of the guru and a Disney-style boatride of Indian history … Yes India can certainly do cheesy!!

file-94a6f6b9-c9f8-47d7-9775-db50b13e197b-12285-000004f8d651237fThen we did the old, and went to the Red Fort with its gardens and palaces …

C4136F4F-0DD0-4964-ADAB-B6B4F6E33C90FD6F2E51-D2BA-4CB8-894E-E3C68BB454432045F0CE-3B7E-4060-A169-2D9508ACBC521FC4A5AA-46F2-4192-8EED-62AFAA67CD6B
… the Jamad Masjid, the largest mosque in India …

D8943FD0-F70B-4696-AC3F-F9560A0BE3E592945A87-F01E-4D4B-9CCC-019761CE471504219217-0B35-484B-8E16-EFF451793B3C… then a rickshaw ride around the Chandni Chowk market.

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Delhi certainly was busy … 7A166D33-7EE1-4A82-AC77-7EE3A6D07F2417F66BA1-4F96-4D47-BE60-1367E5A4EE66… and now we are off to Bangalore.

 

Chris & Elaine’s Indian Safari 2013

53132606-F3C6-4296-8C5C-1DD814CBEBF4My husband Chris and I decided to go away to celebrate our two big birthdays which meant we needed to be away six weeks to take them both in … and since funds aren’t unlimited, where better to go when it’s chilly in England than Southern India.

I booked the whole trip in advance with help from guidebooks, Tripadvisor, blogs and forums. Accommodation was booked direct with owners, concentrating on homestays and small accommodations with character where possible, as we wanted to know we were in India, rather than stay in an impersonal hotel room.

While away, I sent diary emails to my friends and once home, thought I could share it more widely in my first blog, to go with all the accommodation, restaurant and attraction reviews I’ve posted on Tripadviser. Hopefully this will help inspire and assist you on your Indian Safari!

Journal Entries

Delhi and the Largest Hindu Temple

Bangalore and the Eiffel Tower

Hassan and the Hoysala Temples

Mysore and the Magical Palace

Edakkal and the Candlelit Cave

Kalpetta and the Coffee Beans

Mudumalai and the Elephant’s Bottom

Coonoor and the Cheap Chuffer

Fort Kochi and Those Fishing Nets

Munnar and the Misty Views

Madurai and the Meenakshi Temple

Periyar and the Precious Elephant Sighting

Cherthala and the Beautiful Backwaters

Alleppey and the Busy Backwaters

Pariyanampetta Pooram and the 19 Elephants

Varkala and the Malabar Coast

Trivendrum and the Attukala Pongala

Map