Leaving Cortez, we deliberately picked Highway 163 so we could drive through the stunning Monument Valley once more.
Our drive also took us from Ute tribal lands, passed Hopi lands and across the Navejo Nation and into our sixth and final state – Arizona. We stopped for coffee at the Blue Coffee Pot and were surprised to be told ‘we were alright’ when we came to pay. Confused, we hovered, and a girl came over and said the coffee was on the house. Feeling surprised but a little uncomfortable we left money in the tip pot!
We stopped briefly at an overlook for the Little Colorado River …
… then continued to enter the Grand Canyyon NP at the East Entrance and take our first view of the canyon at Desert View.
We were totally amazed, nothing prepares you for the actual size, even other people saying how huge it is! Also, the way the light plays on the different angles of the rock and the colour is stunning, but none of the photos seems to do justice to its splendour.
The viewpoint was developed in 1912, and has a watchtower designed by Mary Colter, a young architect who designed several other buildings including the Bright Angel Lodge. She wanted to make a rest stop, with a view, that fitted into its surroundings and told visitors about the Indians of the South West, so it looks a bit like a tower from Mesa Verde or Hoveweep, decorated with petroglyphs and wall art and gives a huge view of the canyon.
We also stopped at Grandview, further down the canyon …
… took some pics then headed on to check in at Bright Angel Lodge.
We then went out to catch our first sunset in the canyon, and chose Yavapai Point so walked along the rim trail, watching the sun get lower as we went. The dark shadow increased in the canyon but a large part of the north rim was reddened by the by the setting sun.
We walked back and ate in the Harvey House Cafe where we had great build your own burgers, every ingredient a personal choice … yummy.
After breakfast, we started walking the rim trail from Bright Angel Lodge to Hermits Rest, in total 8 miles. We began at Hopi Point.
The first couple of miles were on paved path which was easy walking and quite busy.
Then it became a gravel trail for 3 miles which was far nicer with fewer people.
The views were huge, and changed slowly, the drop was precipitous in places, and the canyon contained every earthy hue imaginable. All the views points had names – Mohave Point …
The Abyss …
Monument Creek …
Despite following the rim, there was still a fair bit of up and down, and lots of stops for photos and before we knew it we’d been out for four hours and had had enough! At this point the trail became a paved path to share with bikes, so we took an executive decision to take the shuttle bus the last two stops to Hermits Rest for a cup of tea and a choc chip cookie, and were surprised there wasn’t a show-stopping view at the end!
On the bus back, feeling guilty for missing the overlook at Pima Point, we got off to take pictures before catching the next bus to the hotel.
After a short rest, we took the bus the other way to Yaki Point for sunset, which was lovely with some pretty cloud in the sky too. A veggie pizza and wine ended our evening beautifully … we should sleep well tonight!
Next day we started with a descent into the canyon down Bright Angel Trail …
… via Indian Garden to the Colorado after 9.5 miles and a descent of over 4,500ft …
Needless to say, we didn’t go that far, just about 1.5 miles down past the first tunnel …
… and the second tunnel which was still a descent of 500ft.
It may have been easier to go by donkey, but it looked a bit precarious …
lt gave a different perspective to be below the rim, but as the trail descends by switchbacks, the views remain much the same.
The trail still descended as we turned round and headed back up to the top. The return wasn’t as hard as we expected, but I bet it’s rather different when it’s hotter than 15 degrees.
We also hiked the last section of rim trail from Pipe Creek Vista …
to Yavapai Point, making around 10 miles along the rim in all. This included Mather Point …
… which had to be the most crowded part of the whole Grand Canyon, as daily coach and train tours deposit their visitors here in droves, and while the view was good, Desert View and Hopi Point were our favourites.
We have been surprised how green it is here, with scrubby trees and bushes along most of the rim …
… and impressed with how well the buildings fit in. This has been an aim at Grand Canyon since the Sante Fe Railway began bringing tourists in 1901 …
… and the Fred Harvey Company started developing the resort with ‘taste and charm’, with buildings often designed by Mary Colter including the Hopi House …
and The Kolb and Lookout Studios.
Obviously plenty of scope for critters etc … and we snapped these just for you!
Our last morning we woke early and went outside to see the sun rise, not maybe the best viewpoint, but certainly the closest, and a essential part of the Grand Canyon experience.
After breakfast we drive north for a little adventure …
Off Travelling Together 