Gloucester … Whales!

We checked into Vista Motel, complete with sea view …

… and then went walking on Good Harbour beach as the sun set.

Passports bistro came highly recommended on Tripadviser and although it was fully booked, we sat up at the bar. There were plenty of veggie options including chipotle pasta which hit the spot with Chris, and after that plate of mussels at lunch, a salad was just perfect for me.

In the morning, we drove a short way to Rockport, which may have started as a fishing village, but soon began started attracting summer visitors and artists to its picturesque harbour …

… today it is filled with little shops selling arty gifts and ice cream.

It also seemed to have a huge number of churches … all with a steeple!

We also glimpsed our first lighthouse … way in the distance … on Straitsmouth Island …

… then a little closer …

… and on our way back two more on Thacher Island.

Gloucester is the oldest fishing port in Massachusetts and we took a trip with Seven Seas Whale Watch.

Leaving the harbour we passed two more lighthouses to add to our tally – Ten Pound Island Lighthouse and Eastern Point Lighthouse.

There are lots of places along this coast offering whale watching, but as Gloucester is on a peninsular just 8 miles from Jeffrey’s Ledge, a popular feeding area, that means less travelling and more watching … hopefully!

After about an hour we slowed and started looking for signs of whales and soon saw some interesting splashing and dark shapes …

We had found several humpback whales, individually recognised by the onboard naturalist, who had made a temporary group and were diving to feed for maybe around 7-8 minutes, then coming back to the surface for around 7-8 minutes before diving again and coming back up a bit further away. We followed them round, pleased to see glimpses of them moving through the water …

… raising their tails…

… and breathing out through their blowholes causing visible condensation.

They also did a lot of flipper-slapping – slapping their flippers on the water, especially impressive when they were on their backs raising both flippers at once.

They don’t know why they flap their flippers against the water … to ease an itch, remove barnacles, to communicate or just for fun!

We also saw some Atlantic white-sided dolphins 

… and a grey seal.

We couldn’t believe our luck that we had got to see so much, far more than we had ever expected and still got back in time for sunset at Good Hope Beach.

Another delicious dinner at Passports and we came away not only with full tummies but some excellent travel tips from Christopher for our ongoing road trip … watch this space!

Tomorrow we drive further north …

Map

The Road to Sydney – Along Thunderbolt Way

 

EC17F9EE-1BC9-4298-953A-CB3D70343B38Uralla’s claim to fame, apart from being a very cute little town, is that it’s the final resting place of Frederick Wordsworth Ward, better known as Captain Thunderbolt. He ruled the highways and byways of the New England High Country for much of the 1860’s and was the longest roaming bushranger in Australian history.

We stopped at the Alternate Root, for great bacon and egg rolls and each of us got a thought for the day with our drinks …

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We then set off down the Thunderbolt Way, a tourist scenic drive which runs all the way to Gloucester.

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Having been definitely in cattle country so far, the ground here is drier and better for sheep, with a number of premium breeds raised for their wool.

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First up was Dangar Lagoon where we stopped for a quick photo op …

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… then on to Walcha to see it’s streetscape with sculptures and sculptured verandah posts which was made to sound somewhat more interesting than the reality, but it didn’t hurt to stretch our legs!

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Our final waterfall was next and we walked the Oxley Walking Track in Oxley Wild Rivers NP, just a modest 3km! The walk took us over a bridge then round to several viewpoints.  We even spent a while collecting stones to see if we could cause a splash in the water before … and finally Chris managed to cause ripples!

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We can also give top marks to the Coffs Harbour bananas which ripened beautifully and provided a great mid walk snack.

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We got some great views along the way …

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The next part of the Thunderbolt Way was built by Eric Carson, a Gloucester sawmiller and road builder so he could bring out the magnificent hardwood from the forests on the Great Divide. Carving the 32km route out of some of the steepest and most rugged countryside in the state was fraught with danger, but by 1961 it was complete and Carson’s Lookout commemorates his work.

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Having reached the summit, we then had to drive down the other side … carefully!

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We found the Gloucester Country Lodge Motel just out of town, with lovely views from the terrace as the sun set, then went to Minnie’s Brasserie in the Golf Club for dinner.

 

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Our road trip almost over, next day we took the Bucketts Way from Gloucester back to the Pacific Highway, just stopping once for breakfast in Stroud.

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We drove through a section of forest …

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… and there it was, the road back to Sydney …

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… and when we arrived home, we got out of the cool air conditioned car into a 43 degree day … the warmest on record for some 70 years!