Tag: England

Another Halfway House … Canons Ashby

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We checked out after breakfast and decided that popping into The Shed for a coffee with Anne before heading home was just too lovely an invitation to miss! We found her at work stitching and were made very welcome as we chatted about all sorts. I really hope to be back soon, hopefully for an actual workshop!

After a good couple of hours, we left the motorway in search of our halfway stop. The sat nav took us cross country, and as we drew up to crossroads in a village it looked familiar. We realised we had been here before, in fact bought groceries in that very shop, while we had been aboard Daisy on the Grand Union Canal last year!

Anyway, a little further we got to Canons Ashby which proved another gem.

John Dryden was given the estate by his father-in-law in the C16th and using masonry from the fallen priory buildings, he built the Tower House, a style more usually found further north. The house has been much altered by later Drydens who have lived here for 400 years. The most famous was a later John Dryden who was the first Poet Laureate in 1668.

We only had time for a quick tour of the house, but treasures included a splendid room with this grand fireplace. Apparently at one time it was painted white, at which point the beautiful Delft tiles were added, but now the white paint has been removed, they look a little incongruous but just show another layer in the history of the house.

During restoration in 1990, these painted murals showing a scene from the story of Jeroboam which date to around 1600 were revealed.

Also, rooms which had been used by the family decorated with coats of arms later became the servants dining room!

After tea and cake and a short drive to the M40, we found we were only about an hour from home, so we will definitely be back for a better look.

One last thing, I’ve just finished The Vanished Bride by Bella Ellis in which the Brontë sisters go sleuthing to solve a mystery. I love the way fiction can make history more accessible and having been to the Parsonage, I could imagine them sitting in the dining room talking over their strategy. Bearing in mind the sisters felt themselves just as capable as men given half a chance, I thought storyline seemed perfectly possible and it was a pretty good yarn.

So that’s it, our Yorkshire Tea Break is over, can’t stop to natter, it’s time to get on!

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Bolton Abbey Blues

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A sunny morning with a beautiful blue sky and today we are moving on, but first a quick detour to the romantic ruins of Bolton Abbey.

Scottish raiders began the destruction of the monastery and Henry VIII dissolution did the rest, but the body of the church survived as a parish church.

We had a look inside and particularly liked the painting behind the altar by a local artist depicting Madonna lilies as the church is dedicated to St Mary as well as barley, olive, vine, Passion flower, wild rose and palm, all of which symbolise the passion.

There are also windows by Pugin, telling the life of Christ.

I was looking forward to using the stepping stones, first laid as a crossing point for the lay workers at the Priory, but some have recently been dislodged by trees so we had to use the bridge. I left Chris taking photos while I went for a walk through the woods …

… and along the river, down one side and back the other.

Our other stop of the day was Shibden Hall, just outside Halifax, a Tudor Manor House which had been home to the Lister family from the C17th, set on a hill overlooking the valley.

Anne Lister was born in 1791 and is sometimes described as the first modern lesbian. She was a successful woman entrepreneur and landowner and her full story was revealed when her diary was unearthed in an archive.

We watched a short film where Helena Whitbread described how she found the diary when looking for source material for a research project. She then managed to decode secret sections revealing Anne’s lesbian sexuality, as well as her views on men, money, business, and the society in which she lived.

Her subsequent book formed the basis of the script for the TV series Gentleman Jack which has brought quite a number of visitors recently, including us, interested to learn more about Anne Lister and to see where she lived.

Anne Lister was eager to improve the house and grounds and made several alterations to the house such as removing the ceiling here to give the impression of an open medieval manor hall, complete with gallery and striking staircase.

She also added the mock gothic tower which she made into a library and landscaped the grounds which still offers walks and a boating lake open to the public, but we didn’t explore these.

Another short drive found us pulling up in the car park of The Huntsman, an independent country pub with rooms on Saddleworth Moor, high above Holmfirth village.

We settled into our cosy room and later had dinner in the restaurant.

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Steaming Round Haworth

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On Sunday we decided to let the train take the strain, but first we drove over the tops to Haworth before it got too busy. We began in the Brontë Museum, in the parsonage where the family lived from 1860.

We learnt all about their lives and literary achievements, and the large number of personal items including Charlottes dresses, scarves and bonnets displayed in rooms they actually inhabited was quite moving.

Here is the dining room where much of the writing would have been done …

… and Branwell’s room, presented as it might have looked to convey the chaotic character of his mind.

We were also reminded how very fragile life was, with their father out living them all.

Chris was happy to sit for a bit, so we parked at Penistone Country Park and I took a short walk across the moor …

… and down to the Brontë Waterfall to take a few pics.

It’s amazing how quickly the weather can change as I had a strong wind with a slight drizzle in my face all the way but by the time I walked back, the wind had gone and my coat was round my waist!

Finally to the train. The Keighley and Worth Valley Railway which once carried coal and textiles to the local mills is now the only complete, preserved standard gauge branch line in the world and they regularly run steam trains. We were just buying our return tickets at Oxonhope as the announcement said the train was about to arrive, which it did!

The station looks really authentic in its burgundy and cream livery, but no time for a cuppa now, let’s get aboard.

Inside, the carriages are just as I remembered on the trains from Kenton to Wembley as a child, although they were diesel.

The route took us back through Haworth, then on Oakworth which was used as a location both Railway Children films and has prompted us to watch the newer one when we get home.

A lucky bend offered a good view of the engine …

The end of the line is Keighley and we got out for a look while they moved the engine round to pull us back, and got Yorkshire Tea and flapjacks to eat on the way back.

Appropriately, we went just round the corner to The Railway for dinner and we’re glad we booked as it was full of people tucking into huge plates of roast dinner. We’ve eaten incredibly well in Skipton with visits to Le Bistro des Amis and Elsworth Kitchen on previous evenings, all showcasing good local produce and great home cooking, and Chris has been impressed with the varied vegetarian choices.

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Wonderfully Woolly Yarndale

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Next day was Yarndale … and having learned that giddy is a good Yorkshire word, I think that perfectly sums up how I was feeling! During Covid, I took up slow stitching, particularly following the textile artist Anne Brooke and have taken part in her year long tag and flag projects. She is exhibiting at Yarndale which will give me the opportunity to meet her, but also to shop for bits and pieces to add to my slowly expanding stash of stitching goodies!

After breakfast, Chris decided to spend the day driving round and about, taking photos while I set off on foot to find Yarndale by following the woolly trail of crocheted markers along the Yarn Walk …

… which took me over the canal …

… and through a park to the Auction Mart, a huge shed decorated with woolly bunting …

… and separated into pens, usually occupied by livestock, but today all things woolly instead.

I wandered round and found Anne’s pen and it was lovely to meet her properly after all this time, and her friend Jane who often joins the online Stitch & Chat sessions. I was able to see some of her stitching on display and also share some of mine, and left after a little retail therapy well as the offer of a coffee at The Shed, her workshop in Brighouse, if I had time to stop on our way home.

Slowly I worked my way through some 200 exhibitors, quite a lot selling wool of one sort or another, maybe raised from specific breeds or hand dyed, or specially for felting/weaving/knitting.

I was very successful in my search for woolly bits and roving for a new macraweave wall hanging and it was good to have purpose to my browsing.

Once I was done, Chris picked me up and we drove to Grassington for a quick look, mainly as it is the filming location for Darrowby in the current production of All Creatures Great and Small. Once you look carefully, you realise how different the place looks when the film crew dresses the location for filming, adding pillars and fencing and removing the cars.

Nonetheless, we did spot the pub and the vet practise and a couple of premises getting in on the act! We had hoped for a cuppa somewhere but we’d left it too late, so had another excellent mug of Yorkshire Tea back at Highfield House. Chris told me he’d had a good day driving around the dales enjoying the views, taking a short walk to Linton Falls and sampling cake but he’d left his photo head behind!

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See Ewe in Skipton

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So here we are in Skipton, which grew as a prosperous market town, trading sheep and woollen goods with its name deriving from “sceap”, meaning sheep and “tun” meaning town. In the C19th it developed into a small mill town, connected to the major cities by the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. The mill buildings remain, a testament to the hundreds of looms that once wove here, but many have been converted to flats and shops. Today, it’s more about tourism and with the Yorkshire Dales rising up just behind the town, they are on the doorstep.

We learnt quite a bit about the history during our hour long cruise along the canal, complete with comedic commentary from Skipton Boats.

Later we wandered a little in the town and down the High Street where the market is unusual as stall holders can just pitch up in any available spot.

After coffee and cake we went to the town hall, unfortunately covered in scaffolding, but look at the poster outside!

Inside, we looked round the interesting little museum. You can see from this display that Sylko thread was made here in Skipton by the Dewhurst mill, and I’ve still got a couple of old wooden spools just like these!

There were also mill pattern books, and this one shows cotton shirt fabrics of the 1900’s made at Fareys Mill.

I also took a photo of this chap, mainly because of the amazing story!

I left Chris taking photos, and took a walk in Skipton Castle Woods.

I caught a glimpse of the castle high above, apparently well preserved and worth seeing, but we didn’t visit.

The waters of Eller Brook run through the woods …

… and a dam was built …

… to power all the mills.

Afterwards, I walked along the canal …

… to our B&B to meet Chris and we checked in to Highfield House, a tall Yorkshire house …

… where our room had a little Yorkshire sparkle …

… a view of the dales …

… and our first mug of Yorkshire Tea!

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Our Halfway House … Baddesley Clinton

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So we’re off! Today was a long drive, but that in itself was a change of pace and the road was fairly clear. The highlight was our lunchtime stop, a National Trust house conveniently chosen just off the motorway, complete with coffee shop.

According to the website, Baddesley Clinton is a charming moated manor house which was home to the Ferrers family for 500 years passing from father to son for 12 generations. The family was catholic with their fortunes rising and falling and while changes were made to the house, including a priest hole, it has retained many of its original features and character.

As soon as we got there we realised it hadn’t been oversold, it really was lovely, and the volunteers were eager to show us round.

There are always little gems to learn like the straw or thresh laid on the floor is kept in place by the piece of wood or threshold in the doorway. Also, I won’t think of Solihull the same way again having been told it is named for the soil hill it’s built on – no doubt ensuring excellent gardens!

There were several elaborate carved fireplace surrounds, including these.

We heard about The Quartet, four friends who lived a life of rural bliss here in the mid c19th.

Marmion Ferriers had inherited the house, married Rebecca Orpen and two years later they were joined at Baddesley by her aunt, Lady Georgiana Chatterton, and her second husband, Edward Dering. Georgiana wrote novels and other books and became a highly successful author, leaving the equivalent of some £4m in her will; Dering tried his hand at writing but was nowhere near as successful as his wife; Rebecca took up painting and there are lots of her pictures round the house and Marmion played the part of a rural squire ensuring the welfare of his tenants and staff. The house felt so homely, they could just have been out for a walk.

There were beautiful flowers in all the rooms …

… which was hardly surprising when we saw the lovely garden …

… including a well stocked cutting garden.

Time to move on, and we had intended another stop on the way, but the traffic was heavier and the rain started and we decided to cut our losses, pick up a packet of biscuits in Sainsbury’s and retreat to the Premier Inn when we arrived in Burnley. We had dinner a few steps away at the convenient Brewers Fayre and got an early night.

It was a beautiful morning and when we checked out, we noticed the photo behind the desk of a sculpture made of metal pipes resembling a windswept tree on the top of a hill. This is Burnley’s Singing Ringing Tree and we began with a detour to see it.

The idea is that the wind enters the tubes and makes whistling sounds although while we were there, there was only a slight breeze so it was hardly noticeable. Nonetheless, we got a great view and enjoyed watching a shepherd and his dog herding sheep, before setting off for Skipton.

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Chris & Elaine’s Yorkshire Tea Break 2022

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It all began with Yarndale!

I started sewing during Covid and had heard about this great textile show full of all things wonderful and woolly in Skipton, so we’ve decided to go, and this year is the 10th anniversary.

Of course there are lots of other good reasons to visit Skipton as it is a pretty market town at the foot of the Yorkshire Dales with a rich heritage. The Brontë Parsonage is nearby at Haworth and Holmfirth where Last of the Summer Wine was filmed, is on the road home.

Since the dodgy knee is still with us, we’ll take every opportunity to have a cup of Yorkshire’s best while we soak up the view and are really looking forward to a few days away.

Journal Entries

Our Halfway House … Baddesley Clinton

See Ewe in Skipton

Wonderfully Woolly Yarndale

Steaming Round Haworth

Bolton Abbey Blues

Peaks and Dales

Another Halfway House … Canons Ashby

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Fowey’s Hall Walk

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The day dawned on our 10th Wedding Anniversary and having exchanged cards and had breakfast we drove to Fowey.

We held our wedding reception onboard a boat on the Thames between Runneymede to Windsor and have celebrated with a boat trip every year since. Mind you, trying to find a scheduled public boat trip in October can be a challenge so I was disappointed that the daily Mevagissey to Fowey service only runs till the beginning of October. Reading more about Fowey, I realised it also ran river ferries, similar to the ones we had ridden on in Dartmouth a couple of years ago. The plan all came together when I saw The Hall Walk, billed as a spectacular circular coastal walk through woodland and creek, with striking views of Fowey Harbour linked with two ferry rides!

We parked in Fowey and faffed a bit with clothing as it had started to drizzle enough to realise going off without a coat would be foolhardy and it was also a bit chilly. This is the car ferry which crosses between Fowey and Bodinnick …

… and this the crossing and the blue and cream house on the opposite shore is Ferryside, another former home of Daphne du Maurier.

The walk was well marked as we climbed up on the other side then through a gate onto a path which ran round the creek of the Pont Pill, which is Cornish for the creek of seal cove.

It joins the River Fowey at Penleath Point where there is a memorial to Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch and great views of Fowey harbour.

So much for a waterproof and fleece as it was chilly … the sun soon came out and before long both were tied inelegantly round my waist for the rest of the walk!

We continued through the woods, particularly noticing the buzzing of insects in the air as they feasted on pollen from the English ivy which was flowering all around, then down to the hamlet of Pont.

The river quay remains, and would once have been busy with barges sailing up from Fowey to unload their cargo and to take on board produce from the farms.

We crossed the bridge and the path rose on the other side and continued along the creek until we reached Polruan where we followed the maze of narrow pathways down to the harbour. Shipbuilding and repair has always been an important trade here, and remains so today and we had a look round as we waited for the little ferry to return …

… which then took us over the river to the Town Quay in Fowey.

Having worked up a bit of an appetite, we stopped at the Lifebuoy Cafe for sandwiches, and I was delighted to find crab on the menu, then we wandered round the shops before completing the loop and returning to the car.

On the way back, we stopped at Charlestown in St Austell as we’d seen it signposted and found out it has a late Georgian working port. It was built around 1800 by Charles Rasleigh to export copper and import coal but was soon being used for the export of China Clay. A complete village grew up round it with sheds and warehouses for pilchard curing, shipbuilding, brick making and lime burning, elegant Georgian houses and small fisherman’s cottages. Much of its character has been retained and so it’s a popular filming location having featured in Poldark and Hornblower among others.

Having said all that, it just seemed to be a collection of buildings each selling something or other to eat with a few boats for decoration, and we only lingered briefly, somewhat disappointed.

Once back, one task remained, to purchase a souvenir of our trip. We had seen ceramic fish adorning the wall of the Sharksfin the other evening, and had glimpsed the same fish in a shop in town when we were walking one evening, so went fishing! Sarah Hunkin is a local lady who makes all her own ceramics in her pottery studio in town and we went and bought a small shoal that we will release to swim across the wall in our kitchen!

In the evening we cracked open a bottle of fizz to celebrate …

… then went for dinner at Salamander, a small restaurant owned by Mark and Hazel. All the food was delicious and it was a perfect place to have chosen. We had hot crab pot and breaded Cornish Camembert with spicy banana ketchup first, then pan fried hake with lemon and dill sauce and pumpkin & apple falafel with saffron and herb risotto and finally a cappuccino creme brûlée … and two spoons!

We saw signs earlier in the week that Meva Shanty Fest was on this weekend and while official events didn’t begin until tomorrow, there was singing in the pubs on our way home and we stopped at The Fountain and The Wheelhouse to listen, a perfect end to our Cornish celebration.

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Fog & Dolphins

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Bit of a change in the weather today as we awoke to fog, and sitting drinking tea we noticed the fog horn from the lighthouse sounding every minute. Once we were up and out, we took photos round the harbour, amazed at how quickly the fog lifted once the sun came though.

We had been keeping an eye on any boat trips being offered, hoping we might be able to take one on our wedding anniversary tomorrow, and saw signs for 45 minute cruises from Seas the Day.

I spoke to the lady selling tickets and she said while the boat was running today, it wouldn’t be tomorrow, so I decided to seize the day and book for the next trip, especially as she pointed out the seats came with cushions and blankets and there was a lovely seat for two at the back of the boat!

We had a lovely time, getting a different perspective from the water and exploring a short way each side of Mevagissey.

We were even lucky enough to see dolphins and Chris got the best photo …

On the way back I was sure I spotted a seal in the water and the captain said it was quite possible as they live along this stretch of coast … and before we knew it, we were back in Mevagissey.

It was turning into an action packed day as we spent the afternoon at the Lost Gardens of Heligan, just up the road. The estate has been owned by the Tremayne family for over 400 years, but the death toll brought by WWI led the heir at that time to forsake it and the gardens became lost before being restored in the 1990’s. I can remember visiting maybe 20 years ago, thinking it needed more time for the garden to establish after all the restoration that had been done. Well it’s certainly established now! Walking round the jungle garden, you would be forgiven for thinking you were somewhere entirely more exotic, with huge gunnera and tree ferns and lots of other lush planting showing just the right amount of exuberance without looking unkempt.

There are some modern garden sculptures in the undergrowth like Giant’s Head and Mud Maid …

… and also formal gardens, a large kitchen garden and extensive areas of woodland for the energetic – all in all a great visit.

We ended our lovely day with dinner at Sharksfin, an excellent meal with starters of mackerel and mushroom arancini and mains of sea bass with mussels in a creamy harissa sauce and spicy roasted cauliflower tacos with Cajun fries while enjoying a view of the harbour as the sun set.

As we wandered round the harbour to aid digestion, I mused that we’d had such a lovely day, I hoped we hadn’t peaked a day early, but Chris said we were bound to have just as good a day tomorrow!

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Dodman Point

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Another sunny day in and another coastal walk! First we walked down to the harbour so get a few groceries and pasties for supper … and aren’t the little boats looking cute today!

We then drove south from Mevagissey to the National Trust car park just outside Gorran Haven, down a rather narrow lane, so we were pleased we didn’t meet another car! Our walk was a circular route round Dodman Point, the highest headland on the south cornish coast, beginning with a descent to the very pretty Hemmick Beach where we lingered and took photos.

A pretty steep ascent followed, before it flattened out, but it was well worth it for the views.

I got a bit sidetracked by thorny windswept trees after seeking them out in the Yorkshire Dales and snapped several along the way.

At the point, there are earthworks remaining from an Iron Age Promontory fort and also a granite cross erected in 1896 to help navigation. It is a convenient seat for picnickers who were definitely taking their time over lunch, but you can see the view across Veryan Bay, with Gull Rock offshore and the Lizard Peninsular on the horizon.

Looking down there was some movement in the water which others said was dolphins, but we couldn’t see anything definite.

We continued along the coastal path for a way until we saw the sweep of Vault beach …

… and a pony grazing …

… before turning inland and returning to the car park.

We drove done to Gorran Haven and where the village store made us some lovely filled rolls to take and eat in the sun.

In fact, it was so lovely, I walked back to the car for our little chairs and we sat on the beach in the sun for an hour or so, then we had ice cream before we left … mine was clotted cream and blackcurrant … yummy!

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