Dambulla … and the Cave Temples

Arriving in the afternoon, we checked in to the Golden Rainbow Guesthouse …

… and took a short walk to the amazingly kitch Golden Temple just to stretch our legs.

We had a home cooked dinner of vegetable noodles, dhal, omelette and chicken curry and were pleased to get an early night having been up so early.

Next day, we had our first Sri Lankan breakfast, with delicious egg hoppers – a cooked egg set in a rice flour pancake, crispy dhal patties, pancakes rolled up with honey and coconut and fruit.

The rain began as we started walking to Dambulla’s famous cave temples, but thankfully the shower was short.

The caves are built into a huge granite outcrop which rises 160m above the countryside. Just five months after becoming king in 103BC, Vattagamini lost his throne to Tamil invaders and took refuge in these caves for 14 years. On regaining his throne, he had the temples constructed in gratitude for his shelter. Later kings embellished, restored and repainted the temples regularly as the paint faded. There are five caves of varying sizes, containing a mixture of standing, seated and reclining Buddhas and decorated with the best murals in Sri Lanka.

Here is a selection from the smaller caves …

Cave 2 is the largest …

… and the three murals on the ceiling showing the temptations sent to the Buddha – firstly being attacked by hairy grey demons with arrows … although one is technologically advanced and has a musket …

… then being tempted by a bevvy of beauties …

… and finally following his triumph over temptation, giving a sermon to an assembly of gods.

The caves were really atmospheric, helped by the subdued lighting, and fortunately, not too busy, and the colours and details in the paintings impressive.

As we left, we were just able to make out our next destination, rising out of the gloom on the horizon … Sigiriya.

Map