Colombo … Revisited

The Galle to Colombo train didn’t have reservable seats, so we took pot luck with 2nd class and found a space standing by an open door and watched the miles slip by. After a couple of hours we were pleased to get off at Mount Lavinia then travel the last 20mins by tuk-tuk … with a seat!

We are back in Colombo, but this time just south of the centre, staying at Moss BNB with a modern zen feel to it.

After freshening up, we walked to Barefoot, a store selling fabric designed and woven in Sri Lanka and made into clothes and housewares. We just bought a bottle of Kithul palm syrup to take home but we’re really here to relax in the cafe where they have Sunday jazz.

Later we took a tuk-tuk to Galle Face Green, a huge urban park besides the sea where everyone goes to watch sunset. There are lots of families and lots of vendors selling snack food, toys and kites …

… The Galle Face Hotel at one end …

… a huge flag pole in the centre …

… lots of construction in between …

… and paddling and promenading!

The flag is lowered at 6pm …

… then the sun sets.

Later, we found the rooftop bar of a local hotel with a breeze, beer, pizza for Chris and baked crab for me … the first crab I’ve had because its usually so messy to eat but this was perfect! I think we might be slipping into our ready to go home mindset … not a bad thing with just one more day to go.

Our last day … and my birthday … so there are treats in store!

First was a quick tour taking in Independence Commemoration Hall, a rather clumpy stone replica was of the lovely audience hall we had seen in Kandy …

… then up through Cinnamon Gardens, a smart suburb filled with swanky houses and embassies, to the uninspiring Town Hall …

… and gilded Buddha in Victoria Park – a green oasis in the heart of the city.

The C19th Gangaramaya temple had the usual image house, dagoba and bo tree …

… but was a bit quirky, displaying the huge number of gifts donated to the temple from expensive golden Buddhas to old cars and the most mundane bric a brac more likely seen at a car boot or house clearance sale!

Onwards to Beira Lake and the Seema Malaka Temple- another chilling designed by Geoffrey Bawa, but apart from the wooden pavilion with gold Buddhas, it wasn’t as impressive as we’d expected.

In the afternoon we had a tour of Geoffrey Bawa’s home, converted from 4 small cottages into an inspired modern home in the heart of Colombo, just what you would expect of Sri Lanka’s foremost C20th architect, although only limited photography was allowed.

Afterwards it was tea and cake at the Gallery Cafe which was once his office where we also found a lovely souvenir, a letter rack designed like one of the many moonstones we have seen in the entrance to temples during our trip. Birthday cocktails, our last Sri Lankan meal and a nightcap brought the day to a close.

Tomorrow we have a morning flight home so here we are at the end.

Chris has expanded his wardrobe by three T-shirt’s with a collection of elephants and tuk-tuk s as well as a very loud red elephant shirt which will no doubt make an appearance on future trips.  He also has high hopes for his close up photograph of the elephant’s eye!

We’ve had a great time – Sri Lanka is lovely with so much to do and see, friendly people and delicious food. We’ve drunk lots of lime, king coconut, Lion and passion fruit … my favourite … and as a bit of a trip first … not a single glass of wine!

Watching the elephants in the national park had to be the highlight with the elusive leopard our only disappointment.

Until next time, we wish you well and long life … or as they say here … Ayobowan!

Map

Colombo Fort … No Fort!

06cacc31-47a6-48f5-bb38-98e2715f6487We arrived at Katunayake International airport and took the express bus for around an hour to Colombo central bus stand then a tuk-tuk to our hotel in the historic Fort district. We are just here for one night, and have to leave even earlier in the morning than planned, with our train leaving at 06.35.

Colombo was a small fishing and trading port until the Portuguese arrived in 1518 and built a fort, only to be ousted by the Dutch in 1656 who rebuilt the fort. In 1796 Colombo fell to the British, became the capital of Ceylon but the fort was knocked down to make way for new neo-classical buildings. Still known as the Fort District, it fell into decline following independence and the civil war, but recent urban regeneration has revitalised the area … but there is still no fort … we looked!

We checked in to C1 Fort Hotel …

1f442c42-3369-4346-9eed-53b27d3f0c80… then walked to the railway station to collect our tickets, overshadowed by the Lotus Tower soaring above.

98c4c66f-7278-42c7-b380-e89b5a2a9499

There was more juxtaposition of old and new …

8b2aaacc-d0f2-4f9b-9c62-bec2a1bc1e62

… and quite a bit of old like Cargills – a landmark in its red and white livery …

9e56ddda-304d-449a-ad9d-3a2378d0474c2f383f10-6104-441d-8917-a84e5c6e1858

… the central clock tower- lighthouse which was apparently built at the behest of the governors wife, frustrated at oriental timekeeping, with a beacon added later for shipping …

7f8be5c6-3891-426b-9bcc-1c62930b142b

… and the Presidents House, surrounded by lovely gardens.

529ee635-030a-414b-9be7-eb8dc0bb8a8d

We ate early and were recommended a South Indian pure vegetarian place called the Golden Cafe, similar to other no frills eateries we have been to before, where we had huge crispy masala dosas with sambal and chutney … for Rs600 … £2.50 for us both!

On the way back we passed the very impressive Jami ul Aftar Mosque, which was unfortunately closed, but we might get another look at the end of our trip.

1069af66-e184-437e-b709-7820b18870b4

We were tucked up by 9pm with the clock set for 4.45 … to catch a train north!

Map