Cinque Terre – Manarola & Riomaggiore

We had thought we might visit the two remaining Cinque Terre villages by boat but rough seas cancelled the ferry. The day was still bright and sunny so we set off undeterred … by train!

Our first stop was Manarola, where to save our legs, we took the bus up the hill to the Santuario Di Nostra Signora della Salute in the small hamlet of Volastra.

We took the path towards Corniglia for a short way to get a view of the terraced vineyards where grapes for both sweet and dry white wines are grown.

We also saw Corniglia in the distance …

… and Manarola below.

Returning to the church, we began the descent and are really pleased we hadn’t done this walk both ways as what seemed to be an never ending flight of steps descended between the olive trees …

… and between the terraces of vines.

We caught glimpses of Manarola as the path zig zagged …

… then finally reached the main viewpoint at the bottom …

… and returned to the station.

We caught the train onwards to Riomaggiore, the last of the five villages, and the largest. We took a few snaps but it didn’t have quite the charm of the other villages and we didn’t linger.

We had hoped the boats might have started running again so we could get a view of the Cinque Terre from the sea, but it wasn’t to be and we returned by train.

Our last night here, so we had an aperol in the last of the sunshine then more pansotti for dinner in the taverna round the corner. Over dinner we agreed we had picked the nicest village to stay in and that of the others, Manorla was the prettiest. As for Ivo’s Camere, we struck gold here with such a central location, a lovely comfy room complete with lashings of hot water and a kettle to make tea … and those 67 steps have certainly kept us fit!

Tomorrow we take the train further west!

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Cinque Terre – Vernazza in the Rain!

The predicted weather forecast for today has been getting worse every day this week, so we knew it was likely to be a wet day … we just weren’t sure how wet!

As it turned out, not only was the rain pretty persistent, it was also blowy and cold. So the choice was whether to take the train to Riomaggiore, the largest of the Cinque Terre towns that we had not yet visited for a look round … in the rain … or stay in our cosy warm room, drinking tea and catching up on a good book …

Chris did venture out to take pics in the rain and came back a tad soggy but with a couple of snaps to share …

Later we ventured out long enough to get sandwiches … and finally just gone four, the rain stopped! We went to stretch our legs and get some air, following steps up between the houses to Castillo Doria which was built in the 15th century to protect against pirates …

… then up more steps to where the coast path to Corniglia is now closed …

… but this gave us another good view of the Vernazza.

Not wanting to leave any viewpoint unexplored, here are a couple more before we called it a day!

Back to the bistro for dinner and an early start planned tomorrow to make the most of what promises to be a sunny day.

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Cinque Terre – Vernazza to Corniglia

A lovely day and a walk planned! We took the bus to the hamlet of San Bernardino, a steady ascent for 15 minutes which was going to make our day a whole lot easier and got out at the Santuario Di Nostra Signora delle Grazie which we saw yesterday from afar.

There were several views … the Santuario Di Nostra Signora di Reggio where we were yesterday on the opposite hill …

… and the road snaking down to Corniglia with Manarola in the distance.

We weren’t planning to walk down the road though, we were taking the scenic route via Cigoletta …

… so left San Bernardino behind us …

… and caught a glimpse of Monterosso al Mare …

… before a pretty steep climb.

Cigoletta, at 620m, is the highest point on the Cinque Terre, but hidden in trees has no view!

From here on, it was downhill through woodland and a couple hours after we began, we caught sight of our destination!

Corniglia clings to a ridge, the only village without a harbour and we wandered round it’s narrow streets, finding churches, piazzas and views …

… including one of San Bernardino!

Having sampled the basil and lemon gelato, we made our way to the station … and we were pleased to be leaving by train and not arriving when we saw La Ladarina … the 380 steps, fortunately down in our case!

A well deserved rest and a wander down to the harbour at sunset …

… followed by dinners of pasta with walnut sauce and Tegame Vernazza, a local baked dish of anchovies and potato … delicious!

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Cinque Terre – Above Vernazza

It hadn’t started well. We woke to a damp morning, grey and unpromising. We took the day slowly, went for some breakfast, checked out the bus timetable and visited the information office. The very helpful chap suggested the best path for the day might be to the sanctuary above the town as it was cobbled and would be ok even if there was more rain.

Returning to our room a wave of umbrellas approached us! Maybe we would wait a little longer …

Patience paid off as later it dried up and we set out, locating the path which went straight up behind the town.

There are watchtowers dotted all along the coast, reminders of a time where pirates sailed the seas …

… and as we got higher we got a better view of the Castillo Doria …

The path became a series of cobbled switchbacks, with stations of the cross on the way.

We had seen various stretches of metal track on the slopes snaking between the olives and vines …

… and when we saw this contraption we realised this was harvesting technology Cinque Terre style!

Near the top there was another view of Vernazza below and a glimpse of the Santuario Di Nostra Signora di Reggio above us.

We felt it was more about the journey than the arrival as the church was closed and looked a little sad although there is still a service here every week.

We spotted the Santuario Di Nostra Signora delle Grazie di San Bernardino on the next hill …

… then made our way back to the town.

Just in time for an Aperol in the last of the sunshine!

The buccaneer theme continued with dinner at Il Pirata – bruschetta and pasta and a Sicilian cannoli for desert filled with chocolate cream!

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Cinque Terre – Vernazza & Monterosso

Cinque Terre means Five Lands for the five small coastal villages of Monterosso al Mare, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia and Vernazza, built into the sheer rocky coast of Liguria. They are famed for their rugged scenery and are popular with tourists and hikers alike. The access by road is limited, so most visitors travel between the villages by train, boat or on foot.

We caught the train in Pisa and headed for Vernazza which is billed as the most beautiful and characteristic of the villages.

We are staying with Ivo and he met us at the station, walked us through the village pointing out where everything was and then thankfully carried my case up 67 steps to our room on the fourth floor! Our cheery little room overlooks the small street and will be our base for 5 nights.

We went to explore the village with the rooftops piled higgledy-piggledy around Piazza Marconi and the harbour and up the slopes towards the fortified tower of the Castello Doria, but it was all a bit grey and chilly.

We looked round Santa Margherita d’Antiochia …

… then warmed up with a couple of local specialities – pansotti (a local pasta stuffed with cheese and greens) served with walnut sauce for Chris and minestrone Genovese with pesto for me and were delighted when a little later the sun came out.

The Sentiero Azzurro or Blue Path is the easiest and most famous path linking the five villages. However due to storm damage, only the 2 mile section between Vernazza and Monterosso is open so this seemed a good walk to start with. We followed signs to the start and were quickly rewarded with a great view of Vernazza in the sunshine.

The path was busy with walkers and had plenty of ups and downs as we passed terraces of vineyards.

We caught our first glimpse of Monterosso, although it took a while longer to reach it! This was the first resort of the area and has a tunnel through a headland joining the two parts of town. We only had 30mins till the last boat back … so the priority was gelato but we did take a couple of snaps including this one of Torre Aurora which was built in the Middle Ages to defend the town from pirates and Pisans.

Having taken a good couple of hours to walk there, our boat trip back took 15 minutes! We got views leaving Monterosso, of the coast and of Vernazza from the sea when we arrived.

Another speciality awaited us for dinner – pesto lasagne and a little local red!

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