Well the Maharajahs of Cochin certainly knew how to choose a spot for their summer palace and River Retreat now occupies the same place, still catching the breeze from the River Nila and enjoying the same view …
We came here so we could visit the Pooram at Pariyanampetta temple, dedicated to Bhagavathi or the Mother Goddess. Historically, a number of lower or sub castes were only allowed to enter the temple and worship on this one day. When we arrived the courtyard around the temple was already surrounded by Kaala Vela or bull effigies which are sent from the neighbouring small temples …
… and also Kuthira Vela or horse effigies.
We were told that elephants would come down these steps (120, we climbed them!), and here is the view of the temple.
Then we saw our first elephant arrive …
… and get dressed up in a gold plated caparison.
After a few minutes, he was joined by his mates as we watched from our vantage point beside the bulls.
The the lads on the elephants backs stand up and wave their paddles and whisks in time with the music played on drums and horns by the men in front …
Next, a chap in a dhotti and red scarf carrying a large knife walks round the temple several times …
… then the Kuthira Vela or horse effigies are carried round and and presented to the temple …
Followed by the bull effigies (and we had to move as our bull had to join in!).
We managed to head to the roof next as 5 more elephants arrived down the flight of steps …
The bull effigies have moving parts and they wave and nod their heads, their ears twirl and they blink. And if that’s not enough, when the lights came on they looked like a cross between a pinball machines with a huge score and fairground rides on a Saturday night as the lights flashed and chased …
Then 7 more elephants arrived! By now the place is heaving with bodies, there are 19 elephants, hardly a spare spot to stand, and the music from the drums and horns is deafening …and having been standing for 3 hours with little personal space and hardly a breathe of wind to relieve the heat … we decided to make our way home … and finally we spotted a tiger … three in fact, pulling the goddess Durga’s chariot!
The Pooram was everything we hoped it would be and are so pleased we went … even though we ended up stranded at River Retreat and stayed an extra couple of days as Kerala came to a standstill with a 48hr general strike and no transport. The roads were almost deserted … and the tuk-tuks tucked up in garages …
So we bided our time by the pool until we could get a train to Varkala.
My husband Chris and I decided to go away to celebrate our two big birthdays which meant we needed to be away six weeks to take them both in … and since funds aren’t unlimited, where better to go when it’s chilly in England than Southern India.
Off Travelling Together 