Bryce Canyon – Hiking in the Hoodoos

file-A8DD175D-09D6-4FE0-910E-E6C687BF15F9-3725-0000030A5E482195Heading north, we passed a sign that said Mystic River Zipline – 10 miles. After a while, I asked Chris what he thought about having a go, and he said it was 7 miles further! We stopped and were rigged out with harnesses and taken up the trail to the first tower with a 800ft line … it was great, really whizzy, and you twist round and see all the lovely autumn colour on the trees covering the hillside! The second tower had a pair of lines so we could race … although I think it was a dead heat … great fun!

Our drive brought us to the last of our revisited destinations, Bryce Canyon National Park, named by early settlers to the area.

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Last time we managed a peek into the park, but didn’t see the amphitheatre which is the main attraction. We arrived in time to walk the rim trail from Bryce Point round to Sunset Point, seeing the hoodoos from different angles and watching the colours change, and although it was cloudy there were sunny bits, and the sun dropped below the rim and finally set.

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Next day we drove to Bryce Point for sunrise, to Chris’s horror getting up at 6.15! It was worth it to see the hoodoos in the amphitheatre light up as the sun rose, although by about 8.30 we were so chilly we went to the historic Bryce Canyon Lodge for breakfast.

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Revitalised, and surprised by how much warmer it had got, we started the steep hike down the Queens Garden Trail from Sunrise Point, following the trail in between the hoodoos. The views were great, a photo round every corner.

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We even caught sight of a mule train taking intrepid visitors round the hoodoos. We joined the Navajo Loop and were surprised how large the wooded area was at the bottom …

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… then started our climb gently at first past Theo’s Hammer and then up some very steep switchbacks to return to the rim at Sunset Point, by which time we had got very warm!

It was such a great hike and we weren’t surprised that it is billed as the best 3-mile hike in all the National Parks!

Later we took the 18 mile scenic drive and stopped at the lookouts on the way and very luckily, Chris spotted this little chap looking for supper, a Utah prairie dog, showing his best side!

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After dinner, Chris had a go at taking photos of stars … mainly so he could justify having bought a stargazers glow-in the-dark t-shirt … and some look pretty good … camera club beware!

Bryce has been a real treat, and despite a pretty basic motel and not much more inspiring food, the park is truly majestic and has stunned us with its beauty.

We could have headed north on the interstate, but chose to take back roads for a way, including another scenic byway, the Nebo Loop …

… stopping for Autumn colour, overlooks and the Bryce-like Devils Kitchen.

Now onward to Salt Lake City … but there is one more stop …

Chris & Elaine’s National Parks Bonanza 2016

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In 2013 we set off on our Utah Trail, looking forward to visiting 7 National Parks in 26 days! Our plans were scuppered by the Federal Shutdown which closed all the National Parks for most of our visit, so we ended up rescheduling and seeing other wonders that we would have missed, but no National Parks. So we thought we would have another go … this time doing a loop from Salt Lake City rather than Las Vegas, which enables us to take in Yellowstone and Grand Teton as well as Arches, Canyonlands, Mesa Verde, Grand Canyon, Zion and Bryce. So get your walking boots on and join us …!

Journal Entries

Driving through Idaho

Yellowstone – Canyon

Yellowstone – Old Faithful

Grand Teton

The Road to Bear Lake

Mirror Lake and the Top of Utah

Arches and Canyonlands

Hovenweep & Mesa Verde

Grand Canyon

Antelope Canyon and Rafting the Colorado River

Zion – Utah’s Most Visited Park

Bryce Canyon – Hiking in the Hoodoos

Provo and the Halloween Anniversary Cruise

Salt Lake City and Temple Square

Map

Scenic Byway 12 … Bryce to Torrey

We left Bryce behind and drove on past yet more lovely scenery, including leaves on the turn, and our first Indian, or should I say Native North American, lurking in some undergrowth!

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We were so pleased we stopped to visit Kodachrome Basin State Park which is famous for its 67 sedimentary pipes.

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Most of the red rock is made of 150 million year old sandstone. It is easily eroded, especially by heavy rain falls that cause flash floods in the summer, and rivulets of water cause cracks in the surface.

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The pipes are made of harder sedimentary rock and are left when the surrounding softer layers erode.

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We did two short hikes, the first The Sentinel Trail to Shakespeare’s Arch …

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Then The Angel’s Palace Trail …

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We continued on the Scenic Byway 12, and as advised by the leaflet, stopping at The Blues Overlook of the pink ledges of Powell Point, where miraculously we managed to take our photo from the same spot as the leaflet!

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We managed the same trick at the Upper Valley Granary which was once a storage place of ancient Puebloans.

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We checked in to Rainbow B&B for the night, and had a great dinner at the Circle D Eatery, home smoked brisket, the beef raised by Todd Phillips in Escalante, with mash and beans for me, and a Circle D black bean burger and chips for Chris. When we returned to Rainbow, the fire was lit in the games room and we played a couple of games of pool while chatting to the other guests, a guy from Amsterdam and a couple from Colorado who had brought their nanny and two kids on holiday with them, in a trailer, they were goats who liked to hike!

Next day we went to Calf Creek Falls. We were advised by Catherine at Rainbow that people had been parking on the roadside then walking Calf Creek Falls, even through the park was closed. We managed to find a spot to park and continued down the 3 mile hike alongside the creek.

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Along the way we passed another granary built by the Fremont Culture AD700-1300 and also pictographs painted on the rock.

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We also saw ‘desert varnish’, vertical coloured striping of the rock caused by the action of microscopic life.

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The creek ran through the canyon and there was a 126ft waterfall at the end … the water was icy!

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Once we got back to the road, we were pleased to see many more people were ignoring the No Parking sign and just getting on with their vacation!

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We stopped for a quick restorative snack at the Kiva Koffeehouse, then continued to Boulder, where we joined the Burr Trail, a scenic route that took us into the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, first through slickrock, then down into Long Canyon which continued for 7 miles with tall red cliffs either side of the road, to a viewpoint across to a line of red cliffs called the Waterpocket Fold.

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We then returned to Boulder and continued on the scenic route 12 to Torrey, which took us up to 9,600ft through highland pastures, pines and aspens, where we saw a cowboy and also deer.

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We finally got to the end of Scenic Byway 12 and turned left into Torrey.

Bryce Canyon … Just a Peek … Red Canyon Better

B8AC8E74-84C0-465C-BD26-834D5258441BOn leaving Springdale, we stopped off in Grafton, a ghost town, once a Mormon settlement which had been inhabited from 1859 until the last people left in 1945. There was a cemetery where people buried included two girls killed by a broken swing, men killed by Navajo raiders as well as a whole family who died of diphtheria. There was also a church and several houses which had been used as a film set in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

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We then drove along another state highway that goes through Zion NP, so remained open, and saw some fabulous views. There was a Ranger at the gate and he suggested sending all the idiot congressmen to the UK, but we said we had enough idiots already! We weren’t meant to be stopping, but everyone was pulling over to take pictures, but it was hard to do justice to the scenery.

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We continued along another scenic route with great vistas until we got to the Red Canyon in Dixie National Forest. This wasn’t on our initial itinerary, but we spent several hours hiking between the weirdly sculpted hoodoos, turrets, spires and pinnacles on the Bird’s Eye Trail and the Pink Layers Trail.

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We continued on to Bryce and checked in to a cute cottage at the Bryce Pines Motel.

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They told us that although the park is shut, the owners of Ruby’s Inn own land up to the rim of Bryce Canyon, and there was a little roadway ‘train’ that they were running, taking people to look. We let the train take the strain then hiked round the rim and got some shots of Bryce, although not of the amphitheatre of hoodoos that it is famous for.

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Next we are off to another local find that we would have passed by – Kodachrome Basin State Park, named in the 1940’s for the revolutionary new colour film.