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The River Taff North to Llandaff Cathedral

BE00BABB-6F64-4095-B8BC-015B50A27DD3Well the first treat is sitting in the first class carriage, complete with reclining seats and complimentary coffee! Not sure it was worth Chris having his car vandalised for, but a kindly gesture from Great Western Railway nonetheless.

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We arrived in Cardiff a couple of hours later, left our luggage at the hotel and set off towards our very own part of town! In the 16C The Hayes was a piece of open ground within the town walls, and today it is a bustling shopping centre, except for the leafy centre where we found the Hayes Island Snack Bar.

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They have been serving up fabulous bacon sandwiches since 1948 and Chris was pleased to spot a veggie burger on the menu.

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Replete, we set off for a walk and were soon reminded that Cardiff is the home of Rugby and we had chosen a few days to visit between World Cup matches. There were banners in the street and as we reached the castle saw rugby mania had breached the wall, nice try!

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The castle is quite eye catching, with the huge clock tower, and surrounding wall, part of which is decorated with sculptures of animals, not unreasonably called Animal Wall.

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Some like the lynx and lioness date from the 1870’s and others are later but still get a mention like the pair of raccoons and the anteater because I thought it looked cute!

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We entered Bute Park, some 130 acres which was once the gardens for the castle, but now a public park and dodged the squirrels as we walked along the side of the River Taff to Llandaff Cathedral.

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Our first impression of the Cathedral was how light and airy it was, with a huge modern statue of Christ taking centre stage. The cathedral was damaged in the war, hence the addition of a central reinforced concrete arch above which an aluminium statue of Christ in Majesty by Sir Jacob Epstein stands.

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AC70BB92-6820-4C04-9DDB-8AD005AF5640Other treasures include the Triptych of the Seed of David by Dante Gabriel Rosetti which was made for the high altar but is now in a side chapel …

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… and a series of porcelain panels showing the Six Days of Creation by Edward Burne-Jones.

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Returning along the river we stopped at tea rooms for refreshments and a slice of Welsh fruit loaf called Barmbrack. We checked in and the bears checked out the room at the Ibis … perfectly adequate and a snip at £50 a night including breakfast!

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Every dining taste is met here in Cardiff and we felt unable to pass by a chance to eat just down the road at Wacaca … hopefully with tastes to remind us of our trip to the Yucatan … and a lot closer than going to the Southbank. We had a lovely time! The restaurant was decorated with colourful banners for the Day of the Dead at the end of October and we were shown to a table with a good view of the restaurant for us both. After margaritas and guacamole, we had three rounds of small dishes including tacos, tostadas, quesadillas and taquitos, all washed down with coronas!

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Chris & Elaine Celebrate in Cardiff 2015

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This year we have chosen to come to Cardiff to celebrate our wedding anniversary.

Chris was sent a couple of free rail tickets following his car being vandalised in Slough station car park so we searched for a destination served by Great Western Railway where we could also celebrate with a boat trip as our wedding reception was held on a boat.

We are looking forward to our trip round Cardiff Bay on the Daffodil as well as popping in to see Dr Who and a turn round Cardiff Castle.

Journal Entries

The River Taff North to Llandaff Cathedral

The River Taff South to Cardiff Bay

Daffodil and Dr Who

Cardiff Castle

Map

Verona and That Balcony!

B699D020-8CEF-4604-9066-6CF36E7ECA0EChris has been looking forward to the highlight of his trip … a Sunday afternoon football match between Hellas Verona and Lazio, a team from Rome. It was typically Italian football with nudges, trips, dives, hacking, drama and handbags! The score was 1-2, Hellas Verona woz robbed! I’ve not been to a match with such good singing and banner waving before … quite atmospheric. Tunes included YNWA, When the Saints, The Red Flag, Que Sera Sera and our very own God Save the Queen, no doubt all with different words! Chris read a Tim Parks book about a season when he followed Hellas Verona to every game, and every character and emotion described at those games, were present at our game!

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Then came some sightseeing! We wandered the streets of Verona, dodging tour parties following guides carrying unfurled umbrellas or glitter sticks aloft, seeking the Arena …

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various piazza …

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Piazza Bra
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Piazza Bra
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Piazza sells Erbe
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Piazza dei Signori and Torre Lamberti
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Piazza dei Signori

churches and frescos aplenty …

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Sant’Anastasia
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Ceiling Sant’Anastasia
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San Zeno Maggiore
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San Zeno Trampling the Devil
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San Zeno Madonna
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San Zeno St George
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Duomo
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Duomo Ceiling
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Troupe d’oeil
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Flight into Egypt

climbing the Torre dei Lamberti for views …

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Towards the Duomo
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Towards the Arena

perusing art in the Castelvecchio museum …

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Detail from the Madonna of the Rose
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Panel from a wedding chest

and crossing a couple of bridges (both rebuilt after being bombed by the Germans in WWII) …

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Ponte Scalieri
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Ponte Pietra

We would have seen the Teatro Romano but it was unexpectedly closed … that’s Italy! The emblem of a ladder is seen all over town, on the football banners and other flags, as it was the symbol of the Scaligere family who ruled the city in the 13-14C, and Arche Scaligere are some of the most elaborate Gothic funerary monuments in Italy.

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And then there was the garden … Giordini di Giusti, laid out in 1570 with a cypress avenue leading to a grotto with macherone, hedged parterres, statues and a belvedere, a lovely place to wander on a sunny afternoon and get a view of the city.

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Shakespeare called it fair Verona, and set three plays here including of course Romeo and Juliet, based on an old Italian story, which has always attracted tourists here, but now millions come to Verona. Every day, letters often just addressed ‘Juliet, Verona’ arrive in the city … and every one is answered! From as early as the 16C, a place had been identified as Juliet’s tomb, in a building once belonging to an old convent. Lord Byron and Dickens both wrote of their visits and Byron even took a small piece of granite as a souvenir. Visitors started leaving notes to Juliet, then in 1936 a Hollywood blockbuster of Romeo and Juliet was made and the site received a makeover to better suit the legend. A chap called Solimani was taken on as custodian and he developed the attraction through showmanship, encouraging visitors to have their photo taken together by the tomb and making a wish to Juliet, leaving messages to her or signing the guestbook. Soon letters started arriving addressed to Juliet, and Solimani started replying as The Secretary of Juliet on an old typewriter. In 1989 the job was taken on by volunteer secretaries at The Club di Giulietta who have replied to 50,000 letters since then. The letters are from men and women, from all round the world, asking for help in matters of the heart.

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Today, you can even send a message by email … Chris is still awaiting his reply!

 

Visitors such as Dickens were directed to a house on Via Cappello as being Juliet’s House and it was bought by the Commune of Verona in 1905. Following the success of the refurbished tomb, the house got the same treatment in 1940, with the facade improved with a balcony, probably made from a recycled 14C sarcophagus, interestingly too far from the ground for even the most athletic Romeo! Today the entrance is covered in romantic graffiti and the tourists have started rubbing the bronze statue of Juliet for luck in love, and queues of people wait for their chance to stand on the balcony. Fortunately we were there early, entry was free with our Verona card so we too stood on that balcony!

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Romantic Grafitti
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Juliet of the Shiny Bosom!
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From the balcony
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Could that be Juliet?

Then to Juliet’s tomb, through a colonnaded entrance and a courtyard garden and down some steps to an old sarcophagus… quite atmospheric, except she was a storybook character!

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Finally, apparently no visit to Verona is complete without a taste of the Baci di Giulietta, or Juliet’s Kisses, a sweet treat invented by Pasticceria Perlini in 1940, consisting of a pair of chocolate and hazelnut shells sandwiched together with hazelnut cream, now joined by a white almond version … very tasty, very sweet!

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Other gourmet delights have included courgette flowers stuffed with a cheese filling, bigoli with duck ragu and risotto made with Amarone, a very delicious local red wine.

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And now with our minds full of all we have seen and our tummies full of pasta and pizza, the time has come to bring our Viaggio a Verona to an end. We hope you enjoyed the trip too!

 

Desenzano del Garda and the Lakeside Villas

92664CB3-E69A-47E1-AFBB-A1513E2EF11CDesenzano has been a popular holiday destination since Roman times, and remains so today, with a street of very chic and expensive shops and lots of restaurants and cafes. It was a bit overcast when we arrived and there had been a storm the day before.

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We took a turn round town and found our first lakeside villa, the Villa Romano, a grand Roman country estate dating from 4C, and while ruined still gave us an idea of the layout and we saw some lovely mosaics.

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The inner harbour is pretty with the small boats bobbing with the backdrop of pretty pastel coloured buildings with balconies and shuttered windows, especially when the sun shines. We climbed to the small castle for a view of the town.

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We took the 20 minute ferry to Sirmione, another chic destination, dominated by the 13C Rocca Scaligera, built to protect the promontory from attack, but looking less fearsome with a moat containing swans.

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59FC55D0-B1D2-4524-A20E-824B71E1255AThe small historical centre gets choked with tourists, browsing in shops and consuming ridiculously large cones of gelato so we escaped and went past the little Chiesa Di San Pietro with a fresco of the crucifixion …

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… to to the Grotte di Catullo, ruins of another Roman villa which have belonged to the poet Catullo. The ruins are extensive, perched on the top of the headland, and offer great views of the lake.

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Finally, we took the ferry further, to Gardone Riviera, which was once the smartest of all the lakeside resorts and still has hotels where suites are hundreds of euros a night. We were here to visit Il Vittoriale degli Italiani, former home of Gabriele d’Annuncio, soldier, poet and nationalist hero, who was given the villa by Mussolini to keep him away from politics. He was a shameless egotist and the villa is both grandiose and bizarre containing a huge eclectic collection including beautiful art and sculpture from all over the world and even a huge stuffed tortoise.

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The huge garden contains not only his mausoleum …

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but also an amphitheatre …

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a battleship …

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A corpse of columns with bombs …

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and a blue horse.

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Overall a really wacky place with great angles and shapes for photos, according to Chris. Do pop in if you are passing or google him for more info!

Departing, we looked back at the very splendid promenade, featuring the Grand Hotel.

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We passed Isola del Garda, a private island topped by a confection of a villa surrounded by gardens and also the ruins at Sirmione on the way back, and there was even a sunset.

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Our visit here has proved to be a very pleasant lakeside interlude to prevent museum and church overload. Relaxed and ready we set of for our last and probably busiest destination, Verona.

Mantova and the Gonzaga Palazzos

E757D479-98F3-488C-B9F8-17F19AE12695Mantova is a very appealing and walkable town, with four interlocking piazzas in the centre surrounded by civic buildings and churches. Unfortunately an earthquake in 2012 resulted in damage to some buildings which are still under repair.

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Palazzo della Ragione and Rotonda Di San Lorenzo
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Piazza Erbe and Sant’Andrea
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Piazza Sordello and the Duomo
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Duomo Detail
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Palazzo Ducale

The Gonzaga family was one of Renaissance Italy’s richest and most powerful families and ruled in Mantova for 300 years. Lodovico II gave the city a facelift when a visiting Pope complained it was a backwater, Francesco II swelled the family coffers as a mercenary while his wife Isabella D’Este spent it on a huge collection of art and Federico II married into a ducal title and built Palazzo Te but then Vicenzo I squandered the lot in debauchery, leaving Mantova open to rule by the Hapsburgs.

The Palazzo Ducale is an enormous complex, in its heyday convering 34,000 sqm, with a population of over 1000. The highlight here is the the amazing Camera degli Sposi or bridal chamber, commissioned by Lodovicio and frescoed by Andrea Mantega. There are interesting scenes of the Gonzaga family on two walls and the ceiling has a beautiful trompe d’oeil of a balustrade and open sky above.

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In other rooms there there were elaborate ceilings and lots of paintings but we particularly liked a garden room, looking out over a hanging garden, which must have been quite a showstopper in its day.

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Several rooms are decorated with grotesque decoration which was first used in Ancient Rome, with fanciful or fantastic human and animal forms interwoven with foliage. It was copied in the 15C, and again in even more refined form in the 18C when the Hapsburgs redecorated parts of the palazzo.

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The Hapsburg heritage also includes the small but perfectly formed Teatro Bibiena Mozart played his Italian debut here when young and his father wrote to his wife “Today I saw the most beautiful theatre in the world”.

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Palazzo Te is the masterpiece of Guilio Romano built as a pleasure palace for Federico II to share with his mistress Isabella Boschetta, originally on an island linked to the mainland only by a bridge.

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The motif of a salamander is found throughout the palazzo because they were thought to be asexual and Federico’s accompanying motto of ‘What this lacks torments me’ is a reference to his legendary appetites.

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The decorative scheme in the rooms of the ground floor is amazing, every one sumptuous, especially in the Camera di Amore e Psiche, where erotic frescos romp round the walls. See if you can see the salamander.

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The Camera dei Giganti shows the destruction of the giants by the gods and a continuous fresco covers every part of the walls and ceiling …

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The Giardini di Piazza Virgiliana, named for the Roman poet Virgil who was born here gets a mention, especially as it was just by our B&B and it was on our route into town.

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Mantova is surrounded on three sides by artificial lakes, created during the 12th century, as the city’s defence system and we enjoyed walking round, watching walkers, cyclists, dog-walkers and fishermen. There are also small canals or ria which cross the town between the buildings.

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One afternoon we took a boat trip which gave us a good view of the city from the water and took us to the Mincio nature reserve which is rich in birdlife.

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We’ve tried a number of local specialities, the most famous here being tortelli di zucca which we knew was ravioli with pumpkin filling, served with a little melted butter drizzled over, but we were really surprised by the sweet amaretti flavour when we tried it.

 

I also tried stracotto del cavello which was delicious, but barely indistinguishable from a good beef stew despite being horse …

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… and also luccio en salsa or pike in a warm pepper and olive sauce which was also good.

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There are several local sweet treats including sbrisolina (a crumbly vanilla flavoured biscuit) …

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… torta tagliatella (crispy as if made with pasta and almond flavoured) and torta elvezia (thin layers of almond sponge sandwiched with zabaglione) …

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… and we have tried them all …all very sweet! We have also had the best gelati here, mine cream cheese and pear and pumpkin and amaretti, Chris’s ricotta and peach and pistachio!

And there is always time for another Aperol moment …

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We’ve really enjoyed our stay in Mantova … but time to move one once more, north this time to Lake Garda.

 

Padova and the Scrovegni Chapel

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The Scrovegni Chapel is Padova’s most famous sight with its remarkable cycle of frescoes completed in 1305 by Giotto. It was commissioned by Enrica degli Scrovegni, a wealthy banker, as a private chapel once attached to his family’s palazzo. The fresco cycle details the life of the Virgin Mary and Christ and has been acknowledged by many to be one of the most important fresco cycles in the world. To help preserve the chapel, each group of 25 has to wait in an air-locked room watching a video while the climate equalises and then has just 15 minutes to admire the chapel before being asked to leave. I thought this would be a real rush, but actually it was plenty of time and we were able to move around freely, following the pictures of the bible stories like a cartoon book. The detail and realism of the frescos was amazing, they were in very good condition for over 700 years old and the colours were really bright. I’d love to say I’d taken some pics but no pics allowed so I’ve lifted these two from the Internet.

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Other frescos in Padova included the Baptistry by Menabuoi with a lovely view of Paradise on the ceiling and the Oratorio do San Giorgio telling the stories of St George, St Lucy and St Catherine albeit with a sorry end for both the ladies.

The Palazzo della Ragione sits in the heart of the city, between Piazzas Erbe and Frutti. The upstairs is one huge room which was originally frescoed by Giotto, including a blue starry sky, however these were destroyed by fire in 1420 and were replaced by an amazing 333 panel astrological cycle by Miretto. There is also a large wooden horse which was made for a joust in 1466 and a black stone which could be sat on with bare buttocks by a bankrupt to have his debts discharged … not sure that would catch on now … or would it?

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The Piazza del Santo is overshadowed by the huge basilica dedicated to St Anthony decorated with minarets and domes outside and Romanesque and Gothic styles inside. Pilgrims still visit and we queued with the faithful to see the amazing relief sculpture panels showing the life of St Anthony round his tomb and the miracles he had performed. Outside is Donatello’s monument to Gattamelata, The Honeyed Cat, as the condottiere Erasamo da Narni was known. It is the earliest large bronze sculpture of the Renaissance but basically just a man on a horse!

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19580F3D-1CBE-4E7B-A154-0D34F267C569Padova’s garden is the Orto Botanico del Padova, which was founded as the garden of curative herbs attached to the University’s faculty of medicine and still contains an important collection of rare plants. It also has the recently built Garden of Diversity with tropical and temperate greehouses containing plants from round the world. It was relaxing to wander round among the plants having spent the day in the town.

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Close by is another green space, the Prato della Valle, which follows the oval plan of the extinct Roman amphitheatre – a grassy island surrounded by a canal with four bridges and statues of 78 local worthies. Fortunately we had a chance to take pictures without the white vans and market stalls which had been there all weekend.

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Time to catch the tram to the station and a train back to Verona, then south out of The Veneto to Mantova in Lombardy.

 

Vicenza and Palladio’s Architecture

1DB822CA-85D9-42AB-8A19-9F8C0F053A0DWe are visiting Vicenza on the trail of Andrea Palladio, a 16th century architect, whose fascination with Greek and Roman buildings led him to develop the Palladian style which spread throughout the world.

Our flight touched down in Verona just after lunch and in a couple of hours we had taken the airport shuttle to the station, caught a train and arrived in Vicenza. Having checked in we went for a passeggiata along the Corso Andrea Palladio, studded with palazzos with ionic columns soaring skywards and stopped on the way for a gelato and later an aperol undernthe eye of the man himself.

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We had a fabulous dinner at Il Molo, a small restaurant near the hotel, dining on tiny stuffed sardines and tomino cheese then huge bowls of pasta.

Piazza dei Signori is the heart of the city and is faced on one side by the magnificent Basilica Palladio, which isn’t a church, but a building containing civic offices and shops.  The pre-existing building had proved unstable, and Palladio suggested a scheme to clad and reinforce the building, creating facades with two floors of beatifully proportioned loggias.

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The piazza also contains the Rua or emblem of Padua, which had been part of an annual festival since 1444 and also a lion on a column signifying that Vicenza was once ruled by Venice.

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Next, a couple of Paladio’s palazzos.  First Chiericati, stunning from the outside and containing the city art collection, with the most fun being a frescoed ceiling featuring a charioteer from below!

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Next was Theine, built for a family who had made their fortune producing silk on their country estates but now owned by a bank. Past the impressive facades, the interior is full of stuccoed decoration and frescoed ceilings, but no photos allowed. It’s jewel was a rarely displayed crucifixion by Bellini.

We stopped in a self service restaurant filled with locals and tourists for lunch, which runs on an honour system – you collect your food from the kitchen, eat, then tell the cashier what you’ve had at the end!  My risotto flavoured by bacala, the local speciality of dried fish was particularly good.

I promised gardens and the first, albeit small, was Giordini Salvi, with a very pretty loggia and view from a Bridge.

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Finally, Palladio’s last work, the Teatro Olympico, in the style of a Roman theatre with a curved auditorium and stunning stage with a central triumphal arch surrounded by columns and statuary, just like the grand facade of a Paladian palazzo.  Behind this is an elaborate stage set with trompe l’oeil views of the streets of of Thebes designed by Scamozzi.  There was a dead fox hanging down in the centre, part of the scenery for Paul’s Letter to the Corinthians, a play in Spanish with Italian subtitles but sadly it was sold out!

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That evening it was warm enough to sit out under the stars in Piazza Signori as we ate.

Having seen Paladio’s urban architecture yesterday, today is the turn of his most famous villa, La Rotunda, just outside the city.  It stands on a small hill commanding great views of the surrounding countryside, a jewel of a building intended for entertaining and built for the retirement of a papal bishop who was part of the refined cultural circle of the time.  The central round hall has a domed roof and is within a square with four facades each with portico, steps and ionic columns. Every interior surface is frescoed and stuccoed and statues and marble floors and fireplaces.

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On the way back we stopped at Villa Valmarana ai Nani, not by Palladio, but filled with frescos and named after the nani or dwarves along the wall outside …

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… and also Monte Berico for the view across the city. It was built following a sighting of the Virgin Mary at a time of the plague and is an important pilgrim site, connected to Vicenza by an arcaded walkway.

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After our pleasant morning walk, it was time to retrieve our luggage and catch a train east to Padova.

Chris & Elaine’s Viaggio a Verona 2015

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Verona is our starting point for a little jaunt letting the train take the strain and spending few days in Vicenza, Padova, Mantova, Desenzano del Garda and finally Verona.

We are on the trail of Palladian villas and frescos by Giotto and Mantegna but there will also be Roman ruins, the oldest botanical garden in the world, the largest lake in Italy and possibly a famous balcony!

Chris is looking forward to Hellas Verona playing Lazio at the end of the trip as well as pizza and pasta and risotto but we may well find some slightly more unusual dishes on the menu too.

Hoping the sun will be warm and the trains on time … Viaggio a Verona here we come!

Journal Entries

Vicenza and Palladio’s Architecture

Padova and the Scrovegni Chapel

Mantova and the Gonzaga Palazzos

Desenzano del Garda and the Lakeside Villas

Verona and That Balcony!

Map

There’s More to Los Angeles than Theme Parks!

A05FDEDD-E290-42B5-A44E-BC37D80FE636In the early days of film, it was rumoured that a budding star only had to parade around the junction of Hollywood and Vine to be spotted by the film directors who drank coffee in restaurants here. Turning off the Boulevard, we saw the famous Hollywood sign high on the hills above and passed the iconic Capitol Records Tower, resembling a stack of 45rpm records, and actually visible from our bathroom window.

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We are staying right in the middle of all this nostalgia at The Hotel Hollywood where the famous have stayed including James Dean and Marilyn herself.

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Today, the pavement is inlaid with metallic stars …

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… celebrating the famous and also in truth the not so famous and even cartoon characters.

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Following the Walk of Fame along Hollywood Boulevard, we passed cafes and bars, souvenir shops and touts offering tours of star’s homes and movie locations. The gems are the remaining theatres, richly decorated in over the top styles, including The Egyptian Theatre which hosted the very first Hollywood Premier – Robin Hood in 1922 …

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… and the El Capitan with a south-sea interior, although we would have needed to go to see the new Cinderella film to gain entry!

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The Chinese Theatre was the most prestigious spot for a premiere for many years and the collection of hand and foot prints in the courtyard began with Douglas Fairbanks Sr and Mary Pickford and still continues today.

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5718C419-48C0-48C2-ADD3-27DC619627CCFBAE8AF9-8E63-43C7-86E6-6317FB32159C6BBE5C2D-F77B-470F-8460-6DD6CD65E11CThe Kodak Theatre, now renamed the Dolby has hosted the Academy Awards since 2002 and is surrounded by the Babylonian columns and elephants of a shopping centre.

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Hollywood & Vine Metro station has film reels on the ceiling and is adorned with palm trees.

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We took an easy 30 minute trip to Downtown LA, arriving at the Mission-style Union Station built in the 1930s.

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Next a step back in time to the founding of LA as El Pueblo de Los Angeles when 44 settlers of Native American, African and European heritage travelled 1000 miles from Mexico to establish a farming community here in 1871. In the 1920s the last few building were saved from demolition and today the Plaza and Olvera Street remain as a memorial to the city’s roots.

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Fortified with the local speciality of Taquitos with avocado sauce, we headed to City Hall, where we took the lifts to the top for a great views over the city.

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C71D883D-22B0-4B1C-891D-D1EBB7CAF62BWe also explored the Financial district of Bunker Hill, Central Library and the Grand Central Market, together with the Angels Flight Railway …

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… the stunning Bradbury Building atrium famous from Blade Runner …

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…  and had a restorative cup of tea in the very fancy Biltmore Hotel.

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As we left we bumped into a film crew in Pershing Square, shooting a fight scene for a Chinese film and chatted to a couple of the production team and the stunt double for one of the actors.

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We also passed another crew filming inside a bar, with all their paraphernalia lining the street outside.

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The other thing we saw on the streets and couldn’t ignore was the huge number of homeless people living rough. Apparently they aren’t moved on here, unlike other places in the US, and with the mild climate and lots of tourists passing through with possibly a little cash to spare, Los Angeles has become a magnet, some being quite inventive with a proper little camp set-up, including water supply.

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The star though was The Walt Disney Concert Hall, designed by Frank Gehry, with the stainless steel cladding looking fabulous against the blue sky.

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We returned in the evening for a Mozart chamber concert and the inside was just as stunning, with acoustics enabling you to hear a pin drop!

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One evening, going out to eat, the road was closed and we saw the odd cowboy, horse and stock transport with what looked like cattle inside. We found out we had just missed the World Movie Premiere for The Longest Ride at the Chinese Theatre, a film by Nicolas Sparks and starring Alan Alda among others, available to see in a movie theatre near you soon!

After dark, there is sparkle but some of it shows the other side of town …

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Avoiding the Hollywood Tours, we cruised down Sunset Strip, by public bus in the daytime, then through Beverley Hills and Bel Air too! Our destination was The Getty Centre, a museum and research complex for the vast art collection of oil mogul J Paul Getty, designed by Richard Meier. The interconnecting buildings are separated by courtyards and gardens with fabulous views towards the hills and LA. Constructed of stainless steel and concrete, the walls are clad in 30 inches square panels using travertine marble, some polished and some split to show the rough fossil-bearing sandstone inside and contrasting with other areas finished in aluminium. Together with the careful mixing of straight lines and curves and taken against the stunning blue sky, it was another photographer’s dream! The only shame was that due to the drought in LA, the water features which usually consume 2500 gallons of water each day were turned off over a year ago to conserve water. So taken were we by the building and garden, the only paintings we went in to see were Irises by Van Gogh, especially as I have visited the garden in Provence where they were painted, and Manet’s Spring, new to the Getty and previously privately owned.

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Returning, we got off the bus outside Amoeba Records, the world’s largest independent record store, just in time to catch Mark Ronson do a DJ set promoting his new album, Uptown Special. The store was filled with aisle upon aisle of everything you could think of and didn’t know existed – new, preloved, vinyl – with a crowd squeezed between enjoying the free show.

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We also got entertained while we dined at Micelli’s, the oldest Italian restaurant in Hollywood, with red and white check tablecloths and wicker covered Chianti bottles hanging from the ceiling and the home of singing waiters and waitresses! The pianist accompanied dinner and our waiter who had toured Europe in the Lion King sang a couple of songs between courses … great fun!

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Another fun meal was at Mel’s diner, a taste of yesteryear Americana complete with jukeboxes on the tables so you can pick the tunes and seating in cosy booths. Camille looked after us beautifully and the food was good.

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So good in fact that we returned for an Elvis Sramble and Short Stack for breakfast before heading to LAX for our final flight of our 101 day round the world trip … home!

Thanks for travelling with us, and just for the record, the only things we didn’t get to see were whales and hobbits!

 

Slowing to Island Time on Rarotonga

D60E3E10-DD80-4BAF-A0F1-B32193799F80Well Chris said, having got as far as New Zealand, why turn round … let’s keep going, so we did! After eight weeks in a campervan Chris was looking forward to having no car keys and I was looking forward to dining out rather than cooking camper meals … and some sun would be nice as South Island got a bit chilly!

Somewhere along the line, it dawned on us that although we left New Zealand on Saturday, the following day was also going to be Saturday as we had crossed the International Date Line … Chris did take a pic of the screen on the plane, but from planning the trip to now, with so much in between, I’d forgotten all about it!

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The warm air hit us as we got off the plane and we waited for our luggage we listened to Uncle Jack and his ukulele who has made everyone’s arrival at Avarua Airport for the last 17 years or so that little bit more relaxed. We were given a floral ei by the taxidriver, including fragrant gardenias, but rain accompanied our transfer … it’s tropical here!

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71C5C617-F886-4874-98E0-6501BC3BA0035BAEF1FA-73F1-4415-BB60-D6AD53DBEC93Avarua is the main town and in the north of Rarotonga and we were staying at Muri, the next largest village in the south-east. The centre has hilly jungle and everyone lives close to the 32km road which runs round the outside. There are lots of scooters whizzing round the island, but we got about by bus, either the clockwise bus, or the anti-clockwise bus! Not that there are many places to go apart from Avarua!

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Steve and Phoebe welcomed us to Muri Retreat which has four self catering apartments, ours on the first floor with ocean view.

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Every time we walked up the road we saw the mountains and passed the munching goats and roosters that made a racket every morning. Muri, a 10 minute walk away, has a beachfront with a few small resorts of varying luxury, some self catering villas, and a string of small buildings along the road including churches a couple of convenience stores, a few souvenir shops and four restaurants, which we tried out during our stay, but we started with the closest. That was a lucky move, as just after we sat down, the heavens opened and it poured with rain. Fortunately there was a short stop later and we managed to get back before the rain started again … and it rained all night!

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Saturday morning is the weekly Punanga Nui Avarua Marke t, and we visited once in the rain and again in the sun! We saw a show with drummers, dancers and singers, who take the Cook Island culture abroad, visiting NZ, Australia and Hawaii. Trader Jacks, an iconic watering hole with panoramic views provided delicious smoked marlin fish cakes, so good in fact, we returned for the smoked marlin salad while Chris had pizza … twice!

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Sunday morning we set off to get the bus to Titikaveka, the next village, for a visit to church. The rain began as we waited, and a chap stopped his car, asked where we were going, and gave us a lift which was very kind. The church was large, plain, whitewashed but with simple stained glass and lots of tropical flowers. We were made very welcome and were able to hear the wonderful singing for which the islands are famous. The traditional hymns were sang a cappella, but others were accompanied and all were sung with great enthusiasm and volume. We were invited for refreshments and were able to try bread fruit, taro, marshmallowy coconut and dragon fruit as well as egg sandwiches and cake, all washed down with orange squash. We had only just begun our walk back when our friendly driver appears to give us a lift back!

Monday had an early shower, then the sun came out. We hoped that the depression causing the unusual amount of rain might be moving away. We walked down to Muri and hired a kayak for an hour. Rarotonga has a reef all round the island and at Muri its about 600m out, and within the lagoon are four moti or small islands. We paddled to one of the islands, had a quick explore, and paddled back. The water is shallow and we did see people walking across to the island. Our coordination was thrown slightly by the sideways current but it was fun. Still sunny in the afternoon, we spent a couple of hours on the beach, which is quite small with only a few feet from tree line to sea, watching the paddle boarding hound!

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We spent a happy hour or so wandering round the gardens called Marie Nui in Titikaveka taking photos of the tropical planting. A lime quencher in the cafe, chilling to their cool playlist and reviewing our snaps and that’s another morning gone! The weather became drier as the week progressed, but also windier, and less sun … till the last day which was perfect!

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The best food on the island is the freshly caught fish which is delicious while virtually everything else is imported from New Zealand. In Muri we had Mexican and pizza at La Casita, Thai fusion at The Rickshaw and fish and pasta at LBV and Sails. There is also the Muri Night Market several nights a week, where stalls set up round a field with trestle tables offering all sorts of local food like kebabs, curries and burgers. I had a delicious chicken stew cooked with local spinach, but the locals don’t really understand vegetarian so we didn’t go again. One night we went to a resort for their Cultural Evening, and had a selection of Polynesian dishes, and a show with drummers and dancers which was fun.

Chris has a fascination with Captain Cook, so finding out we could visit the Cook Islands … well it just had to be done and we’ve had a lovely relaxing time. Rarotonga is certainly a tropical island, lovely and warm but not always dry and sunny, also quite small and basic so maybe we wouldn’t recommend visiting unless you happened to be passing! Chris has been a daily buffet for the mozzies, even more than in New Zealand, so he’s quite happy to move on.

Last port of call before home … Los Angeles.