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The Road to Sydney – Along Thunderbolt Way

 

EC17F9EE-1BC9-4298-953A-CB3D70343B38Uralla’s claim to fame, apart from being a very cute little town, is that it’s the final resting place of Frederick Wordsworth Ward, better known as Captain Thunderbolt. He ruled the highways and byways of the New England High Country for much of the 1860’s and was the longest roaming bushranger in Australian history.

We stopped at the Alternate Root, for great bacon and egg rolls and each of us got a thought for the day with our drinks …

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We then set off down the Thunderbolt Way, a tourist scenic drive which runs all the way to Gloucester.

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Having been definitely in cattle country so far, the ground here is drier and better for sheep, with a number of premium breeds raised for their wool.

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First up was Dangar Lagoon where we stopped for a quick photo op …

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… then on to Walcha to see it’s streetscape with sculptures and sculptured verandah posts which was made to sound somewhat more interesting than the reality, but it didn’t hurt to stretch our legs!

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Our final waterfall was next and we walked the Oxley Walking Track in Oxley Wild Rivers NP, just a modest 3km! The walk took us over a bridge then round to several viewpoints.  We even spent a while collecting stones to see if we could cause a splash in the water before … and finally Chris managed to cause ripples!

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We can also give top marks to the Coffs Harbour bananas which ripened beautifully and provided a great mid walk snack.

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We got some great views along the way …

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The next part of the Thunderbolt Way was built by Eric Carson, a Gloucester sawmiller and road builder so he could bring out the magnificent hardwood from the forests on the Great Divide. Carving the 32km route out of some of the steepest and most rugged countryside in the state was fraught with danger, but by 1961 it was complete and Carson’s Lookout commemorates his work.

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Having reached the summit, we then had to drive down the other side … carefully!

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We found the Gloucester Country Lodge Motel just out of town, with lovely views from the terrace as the sun set, then went to Minnie’s Brasserie in the Golf Club for dinner.

 

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Our road trip almost over, next day we took the Bucketts Way from Gloucester back to the Pacific Highway, just stopping once for breakfast in Stroud.

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We drove through a section of forest …

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… and there it was, the road back to Sydney …

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… and when we arrived home, we got out of the cool air conditioned car into a 43 degree day … the warmest on record for some 70 years!

The Road to Sydney – Kangaroos at Ebor Falls

DEBAF843-2EFE-4587-B5AB-12C799CCE1E6We had a beautiful morning and continued along the Waterfall Way, with our next stop being Ebor Falls in Guy Fawkes River NP. As I was taking a photo of the sign …

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… I heard excited gasps from the car as Chris spotted a kangaroo hopping across a field. I managed to get a snap from a distance, then it’s pal hopped across the field to join him – no photo of that bit but the whole sighting made our day. Ok, so they might have been a wallabies, but they were pretty big so we are sure the were proper grey kangaroos!

19 million years ago, this would have been a very dangerous place as the Ebor Volcano was active for around a million years, changing the landscape with its lava flows and producing all the rich red basalt soil which produces the famed Dorrigo potatoes today.

The waterfall was certainly impressive and we saw the upper falls first …

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… then walked round the edge of the escarpment to so see the lower falls as well.

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Not only did we see this noisy chap en route – in fact we’ve been woken by kookaburras on several mornings – but also this pretty parrot who was more interested in lunch than posing for me!

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We had considered Cathedral Rocks NP, with its huge granite boulders, but were put off by the 8km of gravel access road. Instead we continued to Wollomombi where we picked up sandwiches in the general store, then on to Oxley Wild Rivers NP where we took the 4km Woollombi Walking trail round the rim of the gorge. I could imagine this place must be amazing after heavy rain, but the gorge itself was stunning even though the waterfall wasn’t too big.

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We found a spot for our lunch …

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… and this was the view!

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After a short way we came across this fence which is part of a network of fencing across Australia to keep dingoes and wild dogs from killing sheep and livestock. The original fence was built at the turn of the century and extended for over 1000km across the New England Tablelands, part of a fence running from the Queensland border to the Hunter Valley.

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A bridge crossed part of the gorge …

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… with more views and viewpoints.

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The Waterfall Way ended in Armidale, the highest city in Australia at 980m. It was rather quiet, but had a few lovely old buildings.

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We continued just a little further to Uralla, where we stopped the night at the very comfortable Bushranger Motel and had great food sitting in the courtyard at Top Pub.

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The Road to Sydney – Dorrigo and the Rainforest

F834FFEA-63A9-409D-B71B-87045BF22149We were on the road just after 8am, heading south from Coffs, then inland along the Waterfall Way with a promise of a delicious breakfast in Bellingen, about 30 minutes away.

Jan said we should stop here, a pretty little place with cafes and an opportunity for retail therapy. We felt lured by the Black Bear Cafe with a tasty sounding menu and a table for three. An order of a bene with bacon and a couple middle eastern eggs on Turkish, one with a side of bacon had us sorted and we sat watching the world go by.

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By the time we were done, the shops were open and I found a perfect pair of cream cut offs, just what I’d been looking for, a snip at $50 in the sale.

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Moving on, the road climbed above the rolling hills spotted with cows and farms to a higher plateau which was cleared by the settlers in the 30’s for dairy farming and we took pictures at the Griffiths Lookout, some 750m above sea level.

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Fortunately, parts of the original rainforest still remains in the Dorrigo National Park where we took a panorama at the skywalk.00031E89-A113-4A4E-AE83-3F7C95259846We then took on the Wonga Walk 6.6km through the rainforest.

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It was a shady 20 or so degrees, and we were serenaded by birdsong and very noisy cicadas as we walked …

… but the only wildlife we caught on camera was a lizard!

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There was the Crystal Shower Falls where we could walk behind the falls …

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… and then the Tristania Falls where a couple of chaps had chosen to sit and picnic right in the middle of the view. We tried the Paddington hard stare, but it didn’t work, so here they are in my pic!

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I was more successful with a poser free pic the opposite way!

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After our walk, ice cream seemed the order of the day and here in Australia, the most popular make is Gaytime who have brought out their Sanga this year. We’ve seen it advertised all over the place, particularly on buses, not even understanding what sanga meant … but look at the picture and see if you can guess … answer at the bottom of the page! It was caramel flavour and an experience … but maybe not one to be repeated!

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We checked into the Dorrigo Heritage Hotel, originally built in 1925 and our immense room was big enough even for the Waltons!

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We took a look at the Dangar Falls just up the road, but didn’t feel it was quite warm enough for a swim.

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Dinner in the hotel Bistro was excellent and Chris was the board game winner for the evening.

The morning dawned sunny, and we had to pop back to Dangar Falls for another look – just shows what a bit of sun can do!

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Did you guess sanga is Aussie for sandwich?

 

The Road to Sydney – Back to Coffs Harbour, the Home of the Banana!

3ED8E9AA-9E12-45CC-94AA-273E8D5D0672Despite being sad to leave the 4 J’s in Brisbane, more adventure awaited!

The first leg was to drive back down the Pacific Highway to Coffs Harbour.

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This time we stopped at Burleigh Heads on the Gold Coast and had brunch at the surf club which really hit the spot.

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We were going to take a look at Byron Bay but the traffic was backed up and we decided to give it a miss.  Instead we drove on, mainly on the highway, but with a couple of detours recommended by google to miss congestion.  We found ourselves approaching Coffs mid afternoon and took a detour to Red Rocks beach to stretch our legs and take photos as the temperature had dropped several degrees and we didn’t quite fancy a swim.

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We passed the famed Big Banana Adventure Park    .

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… then saw a sign for the Sealy Lookout and drove 6km up through banana plantations where we found the Forest Skywalk.  The views would have been better if clearer, but were still amazing, out over Muttonbird Island and inland towards mountains where we will be exploring next.

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We even picked up snacks as many of the houses were selling home grown bananas with an honesty box although we’ll have to wait a day or two until they are ripe.

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We stayed in a cute family owned motel called the Shearwater and returned to Suban Thai for dinner as we had such a great meal when we came before. Since we’ve moved the clock on when we entered NSW, we were ready for an early night.

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Chrissy in Brissy

028E2A13-EC2A-417F-AF37-3C095E7DB003It has been so fabulous so spend Christmas with all the family together.  We spent Christmas Eve preparing food together ready for Christmas Day, with everyone joining in and much hilarity.  We were certainly not preparing a full turkey roast as we can remember doing in previous years in England, and instead went for Coronation Chicken, ham and a selection of inspired salads featuring curried cauliflower and pumpkin and lentils.

Late afternoon we went to Eat Street, a buzzing area of brightly painted containers each one home to either a quirky shop or a food stall selling every kind of food imaginable.

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We sampled crispy pork belly, haloumi fries, popcorn chicken, zucchini fritters, satay sticks and marinated lamb.

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The place got busier as night fell with bands playing on several stages and we watched fireworks over the river.

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On our way back we stopped to see the city lit up at night and here is Story Bridge.

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Christmas Day was hot even when we took Fido for a walk in the morning. We had a lovely time opening gifts, then eating our festive feast.

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There was champagne flowing, a little napping later in the day and then a swim in the pool as the rain started to fall and take the heat out of the day.  The rain got heavier, the thunder and lightening started and then we had a power outage so sat playing charades by candlelight. All in all a memorable Christmas Day for us all.

Boxing Day was spent exploring Mount Coot-tha which is visible from Jade’s bedroom window.  We started with the summit lookout which gives a great view of the city …

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… then took a short bush trail to J C Slaughter Falls where there were a couple of Aborigine paintings on the rocks as part of an art trail.

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We ended our outing with a walk round the Mount Coot-tha Botanic Gardens which had some amazing cacti and succulents and a Japanese garden.

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One day Jan dropped us at New Farm, an exclusive riverside suburb with lovely Queenslander houses …

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… and we walked down to the river …

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… then along the Riverside walk.  Parts of the walk are along the shore, but where buildings are directly on the waterfront, a raised boardwalk has been suspended over the river.

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It was a little grey and there were spots of rain but I still got a got shot of Story Bridge.

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At Eagle Street Pier, we took the ferry across to Kangaroo Point, and took pictures back towards the Custom House, dwarfed by its neighbouring skyscrapers.

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We walked down to the next ferry stop …

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… and back over the river, then down to the City Botanic Gardens. This is a lovely green space in the city with huge trees competing with shiny building behind.

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Southbank is the cultural centre of Brisbane, with a collection of museums, galleries as well as restaurants and bars. Right by the river is an area which was the site of Brisbane’s Expo in 1988 and then redeveloped as a city park with a man-made city beach, shaded picnic areas, a tropical rainforest walk and huge Ferris wheel.

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It is also home to the iconic Brisbane sign!

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To see the city from another perspective, we took a river boat cruise passed the Botanical Gardens and Kangaroo Cliffs where much of the stone for the city was quarried, under Story Bridge, up to Newstead, the oldest surviving house in Brisbane dating from 1846 but closed for Christmas, so we’ll remember this one for our next visit!

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The river is lined with residential properties old warehouse buildings with heritage status converted into apartments.

 

Another day out was to Bribie Island, 60kms north of Brisbane up the Bruce Highway.  It is a sand island separated from the mainland by the Pummicestone Passage and the Bridge that crosses was the longest, pre-stressed, pre-cast concrete bridge in Australia when built in 1963. We headed for Woorim Beach on the surf side and while it was fairly calm, we had fun in the warm waves.

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Oh, and meet Chris’s new thongs – the old pair fell apart during our riverside walk and have been replaced by these smart Mambos!

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Having built up an appetite, we stopped for fish and chips …

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… then wandered along the shore on the passage side at Bongaree with views to the Glasshouse Mountains in the distance, our next destination.

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These domes and peaks rising from the plain are remains of volcanic plugs and look stunning in the afternoon sun. We climbed a steep track up Wild Horse Mountain to a fire tower where we got a splendid view, with Mt Tibrogargan on the left, the tallest Mt Beerwah in the centre, and the conical Mt Coonowrin on the right.

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We could also see back to Pummicestone Passage and Bribie Island …

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… and Brisbane in the distance.

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We didn’t stay for sunset, but caught this view on our descent.

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Jan and a John live in Gordon Park, the smallest suburb of Brisbane, filled with lovely weatherboard Queenslanders, single storey houses, built on stilts, with wrap round verandas and decorated with cast iron or timber balustrades and gables and timber screens, louvres and fretwork.

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This vernacular style deals with the possibility of flooding and maximises air flow to cool the house.  Many people theses days choose to raise the house higher on its stilts like this one …

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… and create a new floor of living space underneath, but Jan and John found it was more practical to build backwards and upwards, giving an open plan living space and bedrooms above.

The frontages are heritage protected, so the outside hasn’t changed a lot between the before …

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…  and after …

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… but a year of planning and renovation transformed the inside making it the stylish family home it is today …

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… complete with some lovely artistic touches!

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Kedron Brook runs close by and provides a great place to let Fido off the lead in the doggie area, and the other side has a foot and bike path. We went out several mornings and returned for a welcome dip in the pool as it’s been around 30 degrees, even when overcast!

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We contemplated finding a vantage point for the Brisbane fireworks, but decided in the end to go for dinner and found Fogata, serving delicious Latin fusion fare. We got the evening going with Pisco Sours and left with very full tummies! We were home in time for a swim then watched the Sydney fireworks on the tv before welcoming in the New Year one hour later in Brisbane. Happy New Year to you all!

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Just a couple of days left of our visit and the first was spent doing a bit more cooking and chilling and on the last day, our cousin Andy came by with his fiancé Ellie, on their way home to Noosa.

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We had a lovely day together, catching up with news, remembering times past and talking of future plans and even nibbled the gingerbread house!

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The evening ended poignantly knowing our visit was nearly over. Jan is off to work tomorrow, and Chris Joanna and I will be leaving Brisbane and taking the road back to Sydney, all with memories of our lovely Christmas and New Year together.

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The Road to Brisbane

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Our drive north began at 5am to avoid any traffic, and it paid off as we cleared the city without any hold ups.

We stopped at several Driver Reviver rest stops, one with lovely bacon and egg sandwiches cooked by the volunteer ladies, Judy and Judy,  of the local Lions.  The day was grey and the views generally uninspiring and despite the name, the highway runs quite a way inland from from the Pacific so we didn’t see the sea until we arrived in Coffs Harbour just after midday.

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Having checked in to our night stop at the Ibis, we looked round town, had some lunch and walked out onto Muttonbird Island which gave great views back to Coffs.

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The island is home to a rookery of Shearwater birds who nest here in the summer and gets its name as local settlers hunted and ate the birds and thought their dark flesh tasted like mutton.  At the moment the eggs are being incubated in burrows while the adult birds fish by day so we saw no sign of them, except for the burrow entrances and the pervading smell of bird.

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After Thai curries in a cheerful restaurant round the corner we were ready for an early night, and were back on the road by 8am next day.

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We had a bright sunny day for the last leg of our journey, with the road going through a mixture  of flat farmland and some hilly areas.

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We had a brunch stop at Oliver’s cafe where we munched breakfast burritos and watched the lizards sunning themselves beside the river.

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There was one section of very slow traffic through a little town but otherwise we made great time, entered Brisbane …

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… and rocked up at Jan & John’s just after 1pm.

 

 

 

Sydney Walkabout

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A long flight with a brief stopover in Bangkok, brought us to Sydney early on Friday morning and we took a taxi to Joanna’s apartment in Kensington, a suburb just south of the city.  Joanna was at work so we let ourselves in and after mugs of tea and a shower, we decided some exercise would do us some good, so took the bus to Coogee, the nearest beach.

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The day was a bit overcast, but pleasantly warm after the 6 degree highs we’d left in London! We walked north along the coastal path as far as Clovelly …

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… then back to Coogee.

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We took a quick turn round the local Coles to get groceries for dinner and before long, Joanna was home from work!  So lovely to see her and have a hug! A quiet dinner at home and lots of chatting before an early night for us all.

Joanna works on a construction site, operating a hoist which carries people and materials up and down the side of the apartment block and what with her getting up early for work and our jet lag, we were up and ready to go out by 8.30 so went walking in Centennial Park before the day got too hot.

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The park was dedicated as a public open space in 1888 and hundreds of unemployed men were enlisted to turn swamps, scrub and rock into a grand park in the Victorian tradition with formal gardens, ponds, statues. We entered by the Randwick Gate and got a great view of the city.

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The park is huge and we saw lots of cockatoos, black swans and a pelican.

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There are groves of paperbark trees and even a bat colony.

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Australia became a nation right here on 1 January 1901 when the Australian Federation was inaugurated and the first prime minister was sworn in and this pavilion marks the spot.

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Next up a little Christmas shopping at the local Westfields shopping centre, where Joanna met us after work, and we returned very successfully with handfuls of bags.  We went for dinner in the local Thai restaurant where we all had delicious stir fries.

Sunday might be Joanna’s day off, but with an early schedule all week, we were all still awake early and even had some early visitors!

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We got all the necessary chores done in the morning then went into the city in the afternoon to meet my cousin Tim with Heidi and the three boys, Isaac, Cain and Eden, all so much bigger than last time we met! We sat outside in The Hart in the Rocks and exchanged news and downed a few pints between us!

AF8020EC-3D9A-4125-9168-96B28CD93031.jpegMonday dawned very spectacularly and the balcony gives a ringside seat!

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Having been to Sydney several times, we have done most of the main tourist sights, but we love taking a ferry across the harbour and seeing the Bridge and opera house in the sunshine.  Chris also wanted to photograph the city from the north shore, so we began getting a train to Waverton and walking through the Peninsular Reserve and Balls Head Reserve in search of the best view … all subjective … but here’s my favourite.

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Also saw this cheeky looking rainbow loraqueet on the way!

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Returning on the train, over Sydney Harbour Bridge, we then walked from Central through the Devonshire Street tunnel to Ultimo and the beginning of the new Goods Line urban walkway which runs through to Darling Harbour, following the route of an old rail corridor.

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It passes the innovative Dr Chau Chak Wing Building, designed by Frank Gehry and constructed with some 320,000 custom designed bricks.

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Apparently on a sunny day, you can feel the heat reflected from the windows, and there are more reflective surfaces inside!

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The Goods Line ends at the Powerhouse Museum, then we continued to Darling Harbour.

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44D403CF-D69E-4CB7-B878-9EE9EE214E30AC9978EF-1F76-4D03-9C9D-C1852CD51C8BThe day had become somewhat overcast, and our ferry trip was rather a disappointment as the vessel was a rivercat rather than a traditional ferry, my camera battery ran out at just the wrong moment, and all was a little dull. Hopefully we can have another go before we leave.

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Other outings included a wander round Newtown, an older, slightly down at heel suburb just west of Kensington, with lots of small independent shops, original shopfronts, and a rather hippy/backpacker vibe.

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Newtown is also the epicentre of Sydney’s mural art scene and every since the “I Have a Dream” mural appeared on King Street in the mid-1980s the area has been attracting artists.

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A few years ago the local council got on board and began working with local street artists to build on these grassroots efforts by launching the Perfect Match program, bringing together property owners with blank walls and artists who would like to paint them … and here is a selection.

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We also walked the coastal path from Coogee to Maroubra, leaving quite early one morning to beat the expected high of 35 later in the day.

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Coogee looked far better with a little sun, reflecting on the water and there were lots of people about, even though it was early.

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The coastline is made up of craggy rocks and rock pools and is made even more dramatic with the crashing waves.

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There are several ocean pools, generally natural pools adapted with steps to make swimming easier, with the Ross Jones Memorial Pool at the end of the beach …

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… and  McIvers Baths which is the last womens-only ocean pool left in Australia.

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We managed this snap of the Ivor Rowe Rockpool between waves, but the tide was too high to safely take a dip here.

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We had never swum in an ocean pool, so at Mahon Pool, we stopped for a dip. Free, with loos, changing rooms and showers, this natural rock pool was most definitely bracing! 

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The stunning Maroubra Beach ended our walk.

We returned to Coogee in the evening to visit Chris’s niece Katie and her boyfriend Jamie who have been in Sydney for just over a year, taking some time to experience living and working on the other side of the world. We dropped off Christmas presents from family in England and went for pizza at the Coogee Pavilion and caught up with their news.

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We took another trip into the city to visit the Museum of Australia and look round their exhibition of 100 treasures which was really interesting and filled with diverse items such as a huge 10kg gold nugget, the skeleton of a green turtle and masks and headdresses from various Aborigine tribes.

We were also lured by a photography exhibition where these photos caught my eye.

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We stopped in one of Bill Grainger’s restaurants in Surry Hills for lunch where we enjoyed delicious salads.

It was then time to pack ready for our road trip to Brisbane in the morning. In fact having walked 50 miles in our week long walkabout, we will be pleased for a rest!

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Chris & Elaine Go Downunder for Christmas 2017

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A trip to visit daughter Joanna in Sydney and sister Jan and her family in Brisbane is far overdue so we are going for Christmas.

First, we have a week in Sydney with Joanna, with plans to catch up with Chris’s niece Katie and my cousin Tim and his family as well as doing some last minute Christmas shopping.

Then we all drive to Brisbane, along the Pacific Highway, breaking the journey in Coffs Harbour.

It will be our first visit to Brisbane and we are looking forward to seeing Jan, John, Jack and Jade in their new home and exploring the city. After New Year we head back to Sydney, taking several days to visit a couple of National Parks and do some walking. Joanna returns to work, so we are off to Canberra for a couple of days to visit Chris’s friend Paige before a final weekend in Sydney.

Do share in our family festivities as we go off travelling together to Australia!

Journal Entries

Sydney Walkabout

The Road to Brisbane

Chrissy in Brissy

The Road to Sydney – Back to Coffs Harbour, the Home of the Banana!

The Road to Sydney – Dorrigo and the Rainforest

The Road to Sydney – Kangaroos at Ebor Falls

The Road to Sydney – Along the Thunderbolt Way

Capital Trip to Canberra

Last Weekend in Sydney

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Coleton Fishacre and Home

Guess what, grey again as we took the car ferry across to Kingswear and drove a short way to Coleton Fishacre.

This elegant Arts and Crafts House with Art Deco inspired interiors was the country home of the D’Oyly Carte family, of Gilbert & Sullivan fame, and was well worth a visit.

It contained some fabulous furniture, light fittings and fireplaces as well as this swanky swimwear!

The gardens were huge, running down to the sea and filled with exotic species.

It seems that this might just be the beginning of our Devon Discovery as there is obviously far more to see, but for now, we are heading home.

The Coastal Path East to Froward Point

Needless to say the morning was overcast, but this morning it had a slightly yellow cast and there was a strange look to the sun, caused by dust in the air sucked up by the passing Hurricane Ophelia.

There was a weather warning of strong gales, but we took a chance and set off over the Dart on the ferry to Kingswear then followed the coastal path towards Brixham.

There was a steep decent to Mill Bay Cove where the beach was very blowy …

… then we climbed back up the other side and most of the path was protected by trees until we got a good view at Newfoundland Cove.

Next stop was the Coastguard Lookout Station at Froward Point with good views both ways and a chat with the chaps manning the station and looking out for boats in trouble.

Our route then went inland, past the Daymark Tower, built in 1864 as a navigation aid and which we had seen from the opposite side of the bay a couple of days earlier, shrouded in mist.

We followed a green lane back to Kingswear …

… getting a birds eye view of Mill Bay Cove on the way …

… then a lift on the car ferry back to Dartmouth … and yes we almost hit nine miles again!

We went to the Bayards Cove Inn on our last night and impressed with their extensive veggie choices, Chris opted for butternut squash lasagne while I had a beautifully grilled gurnard and vegetables.