Chris & Elaine’s Viaggio a Verona 2015

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Verona is our starting point for a little jaunt letting the train take the strain and spending few days in Vicenza, Padova, Mantova, Desenzano del Garda and finally Verona.

We are on the trail of Palladian villas and frescos by Giotto and Mantegna but there will also be Roman ruins, the oldest botanical garden in the world, the largest lake in Italy and possibly a famous balcony!

Chris is looking forward to Hellas Verona playing Lazio at the end of the trip as well as pizza and pasta and risotto but we may well find some slightly more unusual dishes on the menu too.

Hoping the sun will be warm and the trains on time … Viaggio a Verona here we come!

Journal Entries

Vicenza and Palladio’s Architecture

Padova and the Scrovegni Chapel

Mantova and the Gonzaga Palazzos

Desenzano del Garda and the Lakeside Villas

Verona and That Balcony!

Map

There’s More to Los Angeles than Theme Parks!

A05FDEDD-E290-42B5-A44E-BC37D80FE636In the early days of film, it was rumoured that a budding star only had to parade around the junction of Hollywood and Vine to be spotted by the film directors who drank coffee in restaurants here. Turning off the Boulevard, we saw the famous Hollywood sign high on the hills above and passed the iconic Capitol Records Tower, resembling a stack of 45rpm records, and actually visible from our bathroom window.

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We are staying right in the middle of all this nostalgia at The Hotel Hollywood where the famous have stayed including James Dean and Marilyn herself.

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Today, the pavement is inlaid with metallic stars …

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… celebrating the famous and also in truth the not so famous and even cartoon characters.

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Following the Walk of Fame along Hollywood Boulevard, we passed cafes and bars, souvenir shops and touts offering tours of star’s homes and movie locations. The gems are the remaining theatres, richly decorated in over the top styles, including The Egyptian Theatre which hosted the very first Hollywood Premier – Robin Hood in 1922 …

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… and the El Capitan with a south-sea interior, although we would have needed to go to see the new Cinderella film to gain entry!

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The Chinese Theatre was the most prestigious spot for a premiere for many years and the collection of hand and foot prints in the courtyard began with Douglas Fairbanks Sr and Mary Pickford and still continues today.

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5718C419-48C0-48C2-ADD3-27DC619627CCFBAE8AF9-8E63-43C7-86E6-6317FB32159C6BBE5C2D-F77B-470F-8460-6DD6CD65E11CThe Kodak Theatre, now renamed the Dolby has hosted the Academy Awards since 2002 and is surrounded by the Babylonian columns and elephants of a shopping centre.

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Hollywood & Vine Metro station has film reels on the ceiling and is adorned with palm trees.

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We took an easy 30 minute trip to Downtown LA, arriving at the Mission-style Union Station built in the 1930s.

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Next a step back in time to the founding of LA as El Pueblo de Los Angeles when 44 settlers of Native American, African and European heritage travelled 1000 miles from Mexico to establish a farming community here in 1871. In the 1920s the last few building were saved from demolition and today the Plaza and Olvera Street remain as a memorial to the city’s roots.

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Fortified with the local speciality of Taquitos with avocado sauce, we headed to City Hall, where we took the lifts to the top for a great views over the city.

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C71D883D-22B0-4B1C-891D-D1EBB7CAF62BWe also explored the Financial district of Bunker Hill, Central Library and the Grand Central Market, together with the Angels Flight Railway …

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… the stunning Bradbury Building atrium famous from Blade Runner …

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…  and had a restorative cup of tea in the very fancy Biltmore Hotel.

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As we left we bumped into a film crew in Pershing Square, shooting a fight scene for a Chinese film and chatted to a couple of the production team and the stunt double for one of the actors.

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We also passed another crew filming inside a bar, with all their paraphernalia lining the street outside.

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The other thing we saw on the streets and couldn’t ignore was the huge number of homeless people living rough. Apparently they aren’t moved on here, unlike other places in the US, and with the mild climate and lots of tourists passing through with possibly a little cash to spare, Los Angeles has become a magnet, some being quite inventive with a proper little camp set-up, including water supply.

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The star though was The Walt Disney Concert Hall, designed by Frank Gehry, with the stainless steel cladding looking fabulous against the blue sky.

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We returned in the evening for a Mozart chamber concert and the inside was just as stunning, with acoustics enabling you to hear a pin drop!

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One evening, going out to eat, the road was closed and we saw the odd cowboy, horse and stock transport with what looked like cattle inside. We found out we had just missed the World Movie Premiere for The Longest Ride at the Chinese Theatre, a film by Nicolas Sparks and starring Alan Alda among others, available to see in a movie theatre near you soon!

After dark, there is sparkle but some of it shows the other side of town …

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Avoiding the Hollywood Tours, we cruised down Sunset Strip, by public bus in the daytime, then through Beverley Hills and Bel Air too! Our destination was The Getty Centre, a museum and research complex for the vast art collection of oil mogul J Paul Getty, designed by Richard Meier. The interconnecting buildings are separated by courtyards and gardens with fabulous views towards the hills and LA. Constructed of stainless steel and concrete, the walls are clad in 30 inches square panels using travertine marble, some polished and some split to show the rough fossil-bearing sandstone inside and contrasting with other areas finished in aluminium. Together with the careful mixing of straight lines and curves and taken against the stunning blue sky, it was another photographer’s dream! The only shame was that due to the drought in LA, the water features which usually consume 2500 gallons of water each day were turned off over a year ago to conserve water. So taken were we by the building and garden, the only paintings we went in to see were Irises by Van Gogh, especially as I have visited the garden in Provence where they were painted, and Manet’s Spring, new to the Getty and previously privately owned.

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Returning, we got off the bus outside Amoeba Records, the world’s largest independent record store, just in time to catch Mark Ronson do a DJ set promoting his new album, Uptown Special. The store was filled with aisle upon aisle of everything you could think of and didn’t know existed – new, preloved, vinyl – with a crowd squeezed between enjoying the free show.

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We also got entertained while we dined at Micelli’s, the oldest Italian restaurant in Hollywood, with red and white check tablecloths and wicker covered Chianti bottles hanging from the ceiling and the home of singing waiters and waitresses! The pianist accompanied dinner and our waiter who had toured Europe in the Lion King sang a couple of songs between courses … great fun!

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Another fun meal was at Mel’s diner, a taste of yesteryear Americana complete with jukeboxes on the tables so you can pick the tunes and seating in cosy booths. Camille looked after us beautifully and the food was good.

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So good in fact that we returned for an Elvis Sramble and Short Stack for breakfast before heading to LAX for our final flight of our 101 day round the world trip … home!

Thanks for travelling with us, and just for the record, the only things we didn’t get to see were whales and hobbits!

 

Slowing to Island Time on Rarotonga

D60E3E10-DD80-4BAF-A0F1-B32193799F80Well Chris said, having got as far as New Zealand, why turn round … let’s keep going, so we did! After eight weeks in a campervan Chris was looking forward to having no car keys and I was looking forward to dining out rather than cooking camper meals … and some sun would be nice as South Island got a bit chilly!

Somewhere along the line, it dawned on us that although we left New Zealand on Saturday, the following day was also going to be Saturday as we had crossed the International Date Line … Chris did take a pic of the screen on the plane, but from planning the trip to now, with so much in between, I’d forgotten all about it!

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The warm air hit us as we got off the plane and we waited for our luggage we listened to Uncle Jack and his ukulele who has made everyone’s arrival at Avarua Airport for the last 17 years or so that little bit more relaxed. We were given a floral ei by the taxidriver, including fragrant gardenias, but rain accompanied our transfer … it’s tropical here!

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71C5C617-F886-4874-98E0-6501BC3BA0035BAEF1FA-73F1-4415-BB60-D6AD53DBEC93Avarua is the main town and in the north of Rarotonga and we were staying at Muri, the next largest village in the south-east. The centre has hilly jungle and everyone lives close to the 32km road which runs round the outside. There are lots of scooters whizzing round the island, but we got about by bus, either the clockwise bus, or the anti-clockwise bus! Not that there are many places to go apart from Avarua!

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Steve and Phoebe welcomed us to Muri Retreat which has four self catering apartments, ours on the first floor with ocean view.

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Every time we walked up the road we saw the mountains and passed the munching goats and roosters that made a racket every morning. Muri, a 10 minute walk away, has a beachfront with a few small resorts of varying luxury, some self catering villas, and a string of small buildings along the road including churches a couple of convenience stores, a few souvenir shops and four restaurants, which we tried out during our stay, but we started with the closest. That was a lucky move, as just after we sat down, the heavens opened and it poured with rain. Fortunately there was a short stop later and we managed to get back before the rain started again … and it rained all night!

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Saturday morning is the weekly Punanga Nui Avarua Marke t, and we visited once in the rain and again in the sun! We saw a show with drummers, dancers and singers, who take the Cook Island culture abroad, visiting NZ, Australia and Hawaii. Trader Jacks, an iconic watering hole with panoramic views provided delicious smoked marlin fish cakes, so good in fact, we returned for the smoked marlin salad while Chris had pizza … twice!

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Sunday morning we set off to get the bus to Titikaveka, the next village, for a visit to church. The rain began as we waited, and a chap stopped his car, asked where we were going, and gave us a lift which was very kind. The church was large, plain, whitewashed but with simple stained glass and lots of tropical flowers. We were made very welcome and were able to hear the wonderful singing for which the islands are famous. The traditional hymns were sang a cappella, but others were accompanied and all were sung with great enthusiasm and volume. We were invited for refreshments and were able to try bread fruit, taro, marshmallowy coconut and dragon fruit as well as egg sandwiches and cake, all washed down with orange squash. We had only just begun our walk back when our friendly driver appears to give us a lift back!

Monday had an early shower, then the sun came out. We hoped that the depression causing the unusual amount of rain might be moving away. We walked down to Muri and hired a kayak for an hour. Rarotonga has a reef all round the island and at Muri its about 600m out, and within the lagoon are four moti or small islands. We paddled to one of the islands, had a quick explore, and paddled back. The water is shallow and we did see people walking across to the island. Our coordination was thrown slightly by the sideways current but it was fun. Still sunny in the afternoon, we spent a couple of hours on the beach, which is quite small with only a few feet from tree line to sea, watching the paddle boarding hound!

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We spent a happy hour or so wandering round the gardens called Marie Nui in Titikaveka taking photos of the tropical planting. A lime quencher in the cafe, chilling to their cool playlist and reviewing our snaps and that’s another morning gone! The weather became drier as the week progressed, but also windier, and less sun … till the last day which was perfect!

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The best food on the island is the freshly caught fish which is delicious while virtually everything else is imported from New Zealand. In Muri we had Mexican and pizza at La Casita, Thai fusion at The Rickshaw and fish and pasta at LBV and Sails. There is also the Muri Night Market several nights a week, where stalls set up round a field with trestle tables offering all sorts of local food like kebabs, curries and burgers. I had a delicious chicken stew cooked with local spinach, but the locals don’t really understand vegetarian so we didn’t go again. One night we went to a resort for their Cultural Evening, and had a selection of Polynesian dishes, and a show with drummers and dancers which was fun.

Chris has a fascination with Captain Cook, so finding out we could visit the Cook Islands … well it just had to be done and we’ve had a lovely relaxing time. Rarotonga is certainly a tropical island, lovely and warm but not always dry and sunny, also quite small and basic so maybe we wouldn’t recommend visiting unless you happened to be passing! Chris has been a daily buffet for the mozzies, even more than in New Zealand, so he’s quite happy to move on.

Last port of call before home … Los Angeles.

 

Christchurch … Rebirth from Rubble

7451288B-B8AB-4454-AC50-AB439322F230Abuzzy, Affordable, Alpha, Apollo, Britz, Cheapa, Cruisy, Discover, Escape, Euro, Happy, Hippie, Hugo, Jucy, Kea, Kiwi, Mauri, Mighty, Roadrunner, Rocket, Spaceships, Star, Sweet As, Tui, United, Walkabout, Wendekreisen, Wicked, … and of course Wilderness … what a lot of camper companies, providing everything from a converted estate car or VW style camper to a one like ours, or even bigger. We’ve also seen converted buses and an ambulance!

We return our campervan today and think we chose the right one for us … it didn’t need to be bigger and we wouldn’t have wanted it smaller! The only irritation is that we lost at least a couple of days of our trip in sorting out maintenance issues, and while Wilderness did get them sorted, if the van was better maintained it wouldn’t have happened. In fact, we’ve been driving round for the last three weeks with a cutlery drawer that we tie up with rope every time we set off as the latch has broken and a bathroom floor that needs regular wiping as every time the water pump is turned on, there is a leak from the basin! We could have asked for repairs, but it would have taken more time out of our trip to arrange. Whinge over, but fired up and all packed, ready for our arrival in Christchurch! Incidently, our campervans have taken us just over 4,000 miles in total in 50 days, so well done Chris for doing all the driving.

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Christchurch was severely damaged by a series of earthquakes in 2010 and 2011 and recovery will take years. 70% of the buildings in the centre have been or will need to be demolished, and doing this and planning effectively for the future has taken time. Our hotel was only built in the 1990s, and fortunately only required repairs before reopening 18 months ago, but there are still buildings covered in scaffolding, awaiting news of their fate, and a huge number of rubble covered lots where buildings have been demolished … a city with far more parking than it knows what to do with!

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A vibrant street art scene has introduced murals, temporary sculptures and green spaces to enliven the city and others to provoke thought, like 185 Empty Chairs to remember the 185 people who lost their lives in the earthquakes.

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The cathedral is in a particularly bad way and as an interim measure, a temporary building was designed by Shigeru Ban, a disaster architect, utilising shipping containers, a polycarbonate roof and cardboard tubes which resulted in it being affectionately known as the Cardboard Cathedral.

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Three lovely old trams run round the city and the drivers give a far more up to date commentary than any guide book, proudly pointing out the Re-Start Mall where shipping containers are used for shops and cafes.

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We took a turn round the botanic garden …

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… and the Canterbury museum to see Fred and Myrtle’s front room from their home, decorated with Paua shells and a shrine to Kiwi kitsch Kiwiana. There was also T-Shirts Unfolding, a celebration of the T-shirt, with a huge collection of display, together with history and quirky facts such as a cotton T shirt was regulation underwear for the US Navy to conceal chest hair!

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Later we took a ride on the gondola to the top of the Port Hills. We saw Lyttelton harbour below where the early settlers landed, the Bridle Path which they had to climb and the Pioneer Women’s Memorial on the spot where they rested before heading onwards to Christchurch, some 15kms further on.

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There are quite a few coffee shops and daytime eateries, but far fewer restaurants opened for dinner, but we found The Villas housed in just that, two old residential houses, where we had a lovely meal and a bar and pizzeria run by Cassells, the local brewery.

We weren’t sure what to expect in Christchurch, but are really pleased we spent a day here. I can’t imagine how dreadful the earthquakes must have been, or what the city looked like afterwards for it to still look as it does 4 years on, especially as there have been huge changes in the last year according to locals. The plans for rebuilding are impressive, so Christchurch would definitely be on the list if we return to New Zealand.

Tomorrow we leave on an early flight to Auckland, then on to Rarotonga in the Cook Islands so the adventure continues!

 

Rakaia Gorge … There and Back Again!

DED18956-D134-482E-91E5-DE108B562236The mainly straight road took us away from the mountains and towards the plain. We were going to do a couple of kms of the Mount Somers Track to Shaplin Falls … but our plans fell through. Instead, I was able to take a photo of a pukeko or swamp hen, an almost flightless bird that we saw far more of on the North island but didn’t get round to snapping … then we saw no more till today!

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Since its a bit of a slow news day so far, another thing to share is a selection of signs which struck us as very local!

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Arriving in Rakaia Gorge at lunchtime, we checked into the lovely little campsite overlooking the river, no power but hot showers and ‘take your time in the morning, no hurry to leave’!

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Following the path, we walked down to the gravel shore of the river to wait for Blair from Discovery Jet who we had arranged to take us up the gorge in a jetboat. We had to give this iconic NZ invention a go, powered by a jet of water taken in and squirted out the back and able to function in 10cm of water, ideal for shallow river beds. Apparently during heavy rainfall though, the river can fill completely, covering all the gravel areas. He took us to the top of the gorge, stopping a couple of times for photos. It was great fun and exhilarating, but not in the thrills and spills category, which suited us just fine.

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He dropped us off halfway up the gorge and we walked back on the footpath to the campsite, which gave us a succession of views of the gorge from above. Really pleased to have done this as we wanted our Camper Caper to end on a high but weren’t willing to chance the bungy jump!

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Tomorrow we drive to Christchurch and return our campervan …

 

Mackenzie Country … Turquoise Lakes and Icebergs

86321831-5746-4062-8A51-6BB457C22AEEMackenzie Country is named after a Kiwi folk hero, a Scottish immigrant of uncertain background who was arrested in 1885 for stealing over 1,000 sheep and grazing them in an unknown area of high-country pasture with the assistance of a single dog, Friday.

Sarah Lark’s family saga of settler life in New Zealand beginning with a couple of women making their passage in 1850 to be married to husbands they had not seen has kept me company during our travels and taken me to many of the places we have visited and brought alive how life might have been, and she gives Mackenzie a starring role although no one knows what became of him.

So what to see here … in the spring there would have been green grassland with swathes of flowering lupins, but now the lupins are over and the grass will be golden, lakes turquoise by the fine particles of rock suspended in the glacial meltwater and maybe icebergs if we’re lucky.

We found a fab camping spot right by Lake Pukaki – the turquoise lake we had photographed during our helicopter flight at Franz Josef, although not looking quite so blue on a grey day.

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The morning was worse, with very low cloud, and we didn’t think it worth doing the walk we planned as we wouldn’t see anything. The road followed the bank of Lake Pukaki all the way to Mount Cook Village, and after a quick look at the statue to Sir Edmund Hillary, who I didn’t even realise was from New Zealand, oops, we went on a fairly short walk to see the face of the Tasman Glacier where it meets Lake Tasman.

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The face was rather blackened with moraine, and the lake rather grey with the amount of sediment in it … but there were icebergs floating in the lake! A small boat whizzed across the lake showing how huge the iceberg was.

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Returning to the campervan, we made a picnic and found a spot to eat it watching the mountains, and slowly the cloud lifted. We decided to do the original walk after all, so drove to the DOC White Horse Hill campsite, paid for our pitch, and set off up the Hooker Valley.

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There was some cloud, but lots of views too, with Mount Cook peeking out from behind the cloud once or twice.

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There were 3 swing bridges to cross over the river and finally we reached the face of the Hooker Glacier, the Hooker Lake and more icebergs, this time only just out of reach!

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The morning began bright, and we drove back up the very turquoise Lake Pukaki and took a photo of Mount Cook almost without cloud.

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We continued to Lake Tekapo, with the very photographed Church of the Good Shepherd, built in 1935 as a memorial to the local pioneers. There is a window behind the altar framing the lake behind … stunning.

 

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There is also a collie dog monument erected by local sheep farmers to honour the dogs that make it possible to graze this harsh terrain.

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Having checked into the campsite overlooking the lake, we walked up to the observatory at the top of Mount John, 30 minute walk, 300m ascent through larch trees … we must be mad … but had our picnic at the top admiring the view!

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On the way down we stopped at Tekapo Springs and had a lovely hot pool soak with a choice of three pools each the shape of a local lake! Now what is the chance that we would be sitting in a hot pool in Lake Tekapo, New Zealand, opposite a couple talking about Nirvana Spa near Bracknell … hey ho!

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5CFA805B-B44F-486B-8D56-77122253C20E1D8D0624-C26D-41CA-AA21-D3C1BEBAD580Next stop Rakaia Gorge …

 

Oamaru and Omarama … Get your tongue round that!

BA3A8E14-E01A-456C-932A-76F270B37DA3We took the back beach road to Oamaru so we could enjoy what I think will be our last stretch of coastline in New Zealand, and it was striking even though the morning was rather grey.

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Originally we were just stopping for groceries in Oamaru, but Chris noticed in the guidebook Steampunk HQ, and since recently he has been exploring this genre of fiction, he said we had to look. Oamuru is called the Whitestone City due to the cream coloured local limestone used in the beautiful ornate Victorian buildings in town and they have embraced all things Victorian. It is definitely the place to go for for vintage and antique shops, pre-loved items, and stalls selling everything under the sun and with jazz playing courtesy of the Jazz Weekend, it drew us in!

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There was also the weekly farmers market where we tried the cheese roll, a local delicacy comprising a slice of white bread wrapped round a finger of tasty cheese and heated on a grill till the bread is toasted and the cheese molten … very tasty with very tasty award winning local cheese, but barely a mouthful!

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Finally we made our way to Steampunk HQ, another example of that slightly wacky Kiwi inventiveness. So apparently Steampunk is a genre of science fiction featuring steam powered technology, often set in a futuristic version of Victorian England … well we all knew that, didn’t we! Take one town with a Victorian heritage, open a warehouse filled with all sorts of reclaimed metal tat, some of it welded to other bits, with a few skulls, and other horror motifs thrown in, keep the lighting low and charge people $10 to enter! The place was busy with the yard outside looking like Mad Max …

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… and then inside there was an organ with different sound bites on the keys such as the Bach’s fugue, a recording of the moon landing, a bass drum beat and ‘all aboard’ which could be played on top of each other … maybe you had to be there!

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The other attraction was The Portal, a small room with coloured lights and music, similar to one of the rooms in Odyssey in Auckland, where the mirrored walls give the impression of infinity, and according to Chris, the place you go to get transported either to the science fiction world of the future or back in time to Victoriana … or somewhere in between! Chris says best $20 we’ve spent this holiday!!!

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Finally we move on, lunch by a lake on the way, then Omarama, where we went to see the Clay Cliffs. They are on private land at the end of a gravel drive, with a couple of gates and an honesty box requesting $5. We found eerie badlands of pinnacles, ridges, ravines and canyons made of softish claylike mud embedded with gravel of all shapes colours and sizes, reminiscent of views in Utah, just missing that red colour. can imagine they must be particularly stunning with a backdrop of blue sky, but even on a grey day they were impressive.

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Next stop … MacKenzie Country …

 

Moeraki … Boulders and Yellow Eyed Penguins

AD4C7473-91BA-4809-A849-5DC0DEF7F1CEHaving carefully planned our arrival to be at low tide, when we walked down the beach we could see what looked like perfectly curved concrete domes protruding out of the sand. These are the Moeraki Boulders which were formed 55m years ago by lime depositing round shells or pebbles, rather like a pearl in an oyster, to make solid spherical concretions over a metre across. The sea has eroded the cliffs, releasing them from the softer stone and they have embedded in the sand. Needless to say an unusual sight and a tempting photo op!

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Our walk along the beach built up our appetite nicely for a visit to Fleur’s Place, according to the guide book a must lunch place when in Moeraki, in a shed on the jetty serving excellent local fish. The building looked a bit dilapidated, but when we entered it was full … good job we booked!

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We passed a photo of Rick Stein eating there on the way to our table, and our waitress explained the menu and gave Chris options for a veggie main. The forward in Fleur’s cookbook mentioned her restauranting career, subsequent semi-retirement and the success of this new venture, which developed from selling soup from a trailer on the jetty because she couldn’t sit and do nothing! Our meal was delicious. I chose Moki, a local fish recommended for meaty texture and good flavour, served with steamed veg and tartare sauce. Chris had ratatouille on a baked courgette with salad and roasted potatoes, and also tried a ‘handle’ of the Speight’s beer which he thought very good. Replete we returned to our campervan.

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Only a short rest as our other reason for being here was to visit the Yellow Eyed Penguin sanctuary set up by previous lighthouse keepers at Katiki Point and the best time to see them is late afternoon when they return from a day fishing. We followed the path round the outside of the restricted area, and saw a pair of moulting penguins, not looking their best, but doing a little mutual grooming.

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Further round there were fur seals napping on the grass …

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… and a bit further we saw a couple of penguins standing on the hill, posing for pics.

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We also went to the hide and saw three penguins on the hillside and watched their antics with binoculars. We had hoped to see a few more, but the season is coming to the end so we were lucky to see any.

The campsite overlooked the bay and in the morning we moved on.

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Dunedin … Little and Large of the Bird World

A3DBE56E-9595-4543-9210-160B93AA2B0EWe arrived at Leith Campsite on the outskirts of Dunedin.

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This area was planned as a Scottish settlement and although later the Scots were outnumbered by English and Irish, it still has a Scottish flavour. It started as a commercial centre for gold rush towns, then farming and shipping took over. It also has the oldest university in New Zealand, with 25,000 students, and regular visits from cruise ships that dock nearby.

Atholl our city guide showed us how the city had developed and its main buildings, some using the local bluestone and creamy limestone to great effect like the Railway Station …

 

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… the former Wesleyian Chapel …

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…  and the Law Courts.

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He also pointed out things we might have missed like the lovely stained glass window in St Paul’s showing local wildlife …

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… and a limestone plaque with kiwi, cabbage trees and thistles.

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Olveston is Dunedin’s showpiece historic house, built for a wealthy Jewish family in 1906 and bequeathed to the city when their daughter Dorothy died in 1966, just as it was with all its contents, including all their art and antiques collected from travels. They were obviously very stylish and cultured as every room is beautiful, many with original wall coverings and fabrics but with many modern touches like electric light and central heating and appliances imported from America like the ice cream maker and refrigerator.

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The road to Taiaroa Head at the end of the Otago Peninsula, was long and twisty with the water splashing onto the road in places as it was so close to the sea.

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We visited the Royal Albatross Centre, where these huge birds have been nesting since the 1930s. Once the birds are adult they breed alternate years as it takes a whole year to raise a chick, spending the other year cruising round Antarctica on the air currents. From the observatory, we saw 5 fluffy white chicks on their nests. Several birds circled above, and one parent came and fed its chick. We were a little too far away to really appreciate their size which was a shame, as the adults weigh 8kg with a wing span of almost 3m.

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When dusk fell, it was chilly as we walked down to Pilots Beach to see the little Blue Penguins return home after a busy day swimming and catching fish.

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9B4D9F4E-764E-49E0-AF67-02BCFE782E2DThe world’s smallest penguins, they are just 30cm tall and weigh a kilo each, and the first little group got washed onto the beach and started scurrying up the sand. They clambered over some rocks and up a sandy path to their burrows … all very fast! We were standing on a viewing platform and they came very close, but the lights were dim so not to frighten them and we obviously couldn’t use a flash, so the photos are vague. We saw around 40 in all return home and they were very cute!

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Last stop as we left town was Baldwin Street, in the Guinness Book of Records for being the world’s steepest street with a maximum gradient of 1 in 2.66, a slope of about 19 degrees … and boy was it tough getting to to the top … not that it was a Race, but Chris won!

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Next stop Moeriki …

 

The Catlins … and Sealions!

ACFAAB98-43EF-4D60-AE3D-A4165D323252Leaving Invercargill, our first stop was Waipapa Lighthouse, slightly further south than Bluff and more interesting as it had a lighthouse and also a sealion on the beach. He was a bit sleepy after swimming and fishing, but cast a beady eye our way! Moments later the heavens opened!

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Next stop was Curio Bay with petrified trees visible on the beach at low tide, and there is a definite tree shape in my photo, I think! Overlooking the bay was a stand of macrocarpa, defined by the unrelenting weather.

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Round the headland we came to Porpoise Bay, often a haunt of the rare Hector’s Dolphin, which we saw but couldn’t photograph. There was a pair and they leapt clean out of the water!

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Just a short hop further and we reached Niagara Falls … obviously a joker at play here when you see the photo! There was an excellent cafe though and replete with blue cod and salad and a veggie burger for Chris, we continued.

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Florence Hill Lookout and a walk to Purakaunui Falls completed the day …

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… apart from a drive to our DOC campsite at Purakaunui Bay, another stunner in the middle of nowhere!

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We settled in then went for a walk over the beach and rocks and back via our resident sea lion, another one too sleepy from swimming and fishing to be too interested in us!

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Next day we drove to Jack’s Bay to see the blowhole which was quite unremarkable, but on the way we passed a sealion by the road!

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He made his way through the grass onto the beach, stopped for photos, then he was off!

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The walk was lovely with blue sea and lots of sheep.

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We also went to Nugget Point, so called for the rocks in the sea below. We saw seals basking on the rocks below us. Looking out to sea beyond the rocks it was easy to understand the next land was Antartica.

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Next stop Dunedin!