Author: elainehayesblog

An early start was required, so having admired the choice of covrigi, gogosi and poale’n brau in the bakeries, we bought a selection for breakfast before we left.

The Transfagarasan Highway was apparently built as a strategic military route, ordered by Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu. Construction took place between 1970 and 1974 in response to the 1968 Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia. The road was intended to provide quick access across the Carpathian Mountains for Romanian troops in case of a potential Soviet invasion. 

Official government figures state that 38 workers died throughout the construction, but it is likely to have been far higher.  The road was never needed for its intended purpose and is now considered one of the most beautiful routes to drive, especially on a bike or in a high performance car.

We had our trusty bright blue VW TCross and it wasn’t long before the road started to approach the mountains …

… then climb slowly.  We came across a shepherd herding his sheep along the road …

… but they were tempted back and forth by every patch of grass!

Eventually we squeezed by then spotted a bear walking along the road, but he was safely behind the barrier by the time we reached him. The road was quite enough to pause and take a photo.

Higher we climbed until we could see the Balea waterfall in the distance …

… and a short distance further, a chance to stop and walk a little, and see the view of the road ahead!

The satnav looked interesting as we set off again.

The road wasn’t too busy, so we were able to pull off the road several times to take pictures.

We even found snow!

At the top is Balea Lake, a glacial lake just below the main ridge of the Fagaras Mountains, at 2042m.

There were lots of opportunities to snack! We saw Kürtőskalács being made …

… and took ours with a coffee to a rock with a view!

We walked round the lake …

… then climbed to the viewpoint to take photos of the view and having struggled with a selfie, Michael kindly took this fab picture for us …

… so we returned the favour for him and his friends!

Readers, we were there for sometime …

… so I sat down to wait!

The road down was less dramatic, but still provided views …

… and before long we were at the Piscul Negru Hotel to spend the night.

We were sitting on the balcony before dinner and the resident dogs started barking.  When we looked, a bear had come out of the forest and was eating something.

We found out later that the hotel recycles its food waste this way, using what they consider to be an environmentally friendly method.  I felt a little conflicted, wondering whether it doesn’t just tempt the bears towards humans, when really they should stay away, and maybe it was done as much as a tourist attraction.

Dinner was delicious as we both tried new things – Chris the oven baked Bulz, with polenta and the really tasty branza de burduf cheese and for me Saramura de crap … which sounds dodgy but is grilled carp, briefly simmered in a broth with vegetables!

In the morning the road meandered alongside a stream and through the forest for some time and we kept an eye out for bears.  The first we saw was sitting behind a wall by the road soaking up the sun and paying us little attention as we took several photos and with no traffic behind us, we were able to watch him for a few minutes.  He did look quite chilled and unbothered by us and was a joy to watch.

We saw 9 bears in total, but a couple  looked pitiful, and one looked like if we lingered he might approach. I wasn’t concerned for our safety, just worried he might put himself in danger on the road.

Finally, there was a mother with her two cubs behind.

We continued with mixed feeling, remembering what was said at the sanctuary that the bears are wild and should not have contact with people, meanwhile our desire to see them is selfish and not in their best interests.

Later the road followed Vidara lake, glimpsed through the trees …

… then we came to the dam where we stopped for snaps and to stretch our legs.

We found it a memorable experience and the views certainly have the wow factor, but the road wasn’t as challenging as we’d been led to believe. Drivers were all taking it easy and enjoying the shared experience but I can imagine it becoming a little fraught if really busy.

The Transfagarasan Highway ends at Curtea de Arges, and we turned towards Bucharest …

Postscript: A few days later, a motorcyclist was killed by a bear along the Transfagarasan, tragic, but he had been posting selfies with bears before the fatal attack. Authorities had to shoot the bear.

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Biertan Fortified Church is perched high on a hill in the middle of the village, surrounded by three tiers of 35-foot-high defensive walls, connected by towers and gates, making the church impossible to conquer during medieval times.

We climbed up to the church.

The multi-paneled wooden altar is huge …

… as is the oak door, complete with a unique 19-points deadbolt lock, which protected the treasures in the sacristy.

We admired the array of imposing defending towers …

… the fortifications …

… and the replica of the Marital Prison where couples wishing to divorce were shut up together for three weeks with just one bed, pillow, table, chair, plate, knife and spoon to share.  Church records show only one divorce here in three centuries!

We even got a chance to see into the back yards of a few of the houses that present such a closed front to the world from the main road!

Once the seven Saxon citadels were established, they were supported by further colonisation which established hundreds of villages in the area with a distinct culture and vernacular style.  However the tide of history turns and their influence eroded through the C18th, putting them in a difficult position in WWII.  Many joined the German army and after the war, as punishment most of the adult Saxon population were deported to the Soviet Union for slave labour. Those that returned found their land confiscated and today their numbers have dwindled significantly due to emigration, particularly after the fall of communism. An exhibition in the church highlighted this and showed attempts to preserve their culture.

A quick walk round the village …

… and we continued our drive to Sibiu, the most powerful of the seven Saxon towns, and also called Hermannstadt in German.

We checked in to Goldsmith,  more rooms looking a little plain on the outside, but with a large and airy room within.

It is a few steps to Goldsmiths Square …

… and we see a sign of the duality of the town …

… before a flight of steps to Piata Mica, one of the three interlocking squares in the centre.

It appears we have arrived at festival time again, this time the Sibiu International Theatre Festival, and the town is full of crowds enjoying the various entertainment, much of it free.  We stumbled on a cirque de soleil type show practising …

We are just about museumed out, so we’ve spent out time watching the world go by with a beer, snapping shots of the buildings, people and the odd clown!

We have visited a trio of churches – the Orthodox one had a great interior …

… and the Catholic one a lovely image of St George.

The Evangelical Cathedral was our favourite. 

Rewind a couple of days and we were buying ice cream in Sighisoura and ended up chatting to four people on visit to Romania with the Dorking Choral Society, giving a concert at Sibiu cathedral which was sold out.  Fast forward to yesterday, we were following two ladies who sounded very Surrey and asked if they were from Dorking.  Astonished they said yes, we chatted and they mentioned there was a rehearsal the following afternoon.  We timed our visit to the cathedral perfectly, entering as they started singing Jerusalem which filled the church!  They continued rehearsing Mozart’s Requiem which really added to our visit.

I asked about the altarpiece on display in the entrance and a young guide came over to explain it had been the original.  He also showed us how it had been changed over time, with images of saints painted over with text when the cathedral changed from Catholic to Lutheran, then additional paintings added over the text during the Counter Reformation.

Gabriel was a student, doing this as a holiday job, and was eager to show us more, and we almost went round again!  We now know that when bodies were no longer allowed to be buried in the church, they were taken to a cemetery and the gravestones displayed on the walls instead …

… and this chap shouldn’t be sported red shoes as only the Pope was allowed to wear red …

Before we left, we climbed to the top of the clock tower for a fab view of the city with the Council Tower taking centre stage …

… then crossed the square, climbed up that tower and got the view the other way!

All the time, we were under the watchful eyes of Sibiu, which peer out from under the eyebrow dormers on the roofs … actually used to ventilate the attic grain stores.

The first night we ate in the Piata Mica at Inspirat, drawn by hummus and roasted cauliflower and also cutlets of pike perch for me and we watched the crowds in the square …

… and the show.

The following night, we found it hard to find a table, but took the only one we’d seen in Atrium, a fusion pizzeria!  Chris enjoyed his pizza and I had Tonkatsu, a fusion schnitzel with teriyaki cabbage  which was delicious. 

Another couple sat on the next table, and we got chatting and pulled our tables closer. Both doctors from Sibiu, they have travelled quite and we had a lovely evening with them.

There was one last performance on our way back and then it was curtains for Sibiu … the Transfagarasan awaits!

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Our first stop today was Salina Turda, possibly the only place where you can enjoy a boating lake, ferris wheel, table tennis and mini golf … 112 metres below ground!

Salinas Turda is a salt mine, slowly excavated over 240 years and made up of several huge chambers connected by a horizontal transportation tunnel 917 metres long.  

We made the initial descent …

… and walked the length of the tunnel …

… spotting salt deposits on the walls.

The gallery overlooked the top of the Joseph mine and the damp walls made them glisten.

There were several pieces of equipment, but this is the crivac, a vertical extraction winch which lifted the salt out of the mine, powered by a pair of horses.

We reached the top of the Rudolf Mine and saw the rough surface of the salt ceiling glistening and the lit zig zag of the flights of stairs opposite heading downwards.

Looking down, the ferris wheel and mini golf were in view.

Reader, we took the stairs! After a photo op looking especially stylish with my jeans on under my dress … it was only 12° …

… I snapped the eerie boating lake below before returning to the surface, by lift!

We cracked on to Sighisoara, a couple of hours drive.  I’d been having a little medical issue which I had tried to resolve with time and natural remedies but the time had come to go in search of antibiotics. It probably helped that we chose the emergency department of a small town because it was very quiet. Within 45 minutes, I had been triaged, seen by an English speaking doctor and filled my prescription which cost just £8. Excellent service we couldn’t fault.  

We are staying at Casa Wagner for the next two nights, a small hotel facing the Citadel Square and retaining lots of period features. 

We didn’t venture far that first evening, but I felt so much better in the morning.

After breakfast, we ventured down to the lower town …

… in search of a mini market to buy a couple of large bottles of water and had coffee in Umbrella Street. 

As we returned, we kept catching sight of the Clock Tower.

Having been down, now it was time to climb up, taking the Students’ Stair, a covered wooden staircase, to the School on the Hill.

We actually got chatting to a lady this morning who has lived in Canada for 30 years, is back for her first trip and remembers attending the school as a child.

Here is the Church on the Hill, built in gothic style in the C13th, originally Catholic, but Lutheran after the 1547 Reform.

In all these churches we’ve seen the view to the altar … 

… only just surpasses the view back to the organ.

Here is the gothic altarpiece …

… and another on display.

Restored fragments of murals from the late C15th include this rare image feintly showing God with three heads depicting father, son and Holy Spirit in the centre … 

… and George and the dragon.

The Ropemakers’ Tower is home to the guardian of the cemetery, and we walked back through the graves to the town.

Definitely time for lunch, and we found a perfect people watching spot with a platter of grilled veg and a couple of beers waiting!

The afternoon was spent on a circuit of the towers, the Bootmakers’ Tower …

Which was beside the Catholic Church …

… the Furriers’ Tower …

… and the Tailors’ Tower which guards the back of the citadel.

Full circle, back to the main square and the Clock Tower, which we climbed to get a view over the town …

… and also of the seven figures representing the days of the week, with Sunday sporting the rays of the sun.

This is also the birthplace of Vlad Draculea, also known as Vlad Tepes or Vlad the Impaler, who ruled the province of Walachia in the C15th. Needless to say there is lots of Dracula memorabilia available!

Early evening, there was a short recital with organ and violin in the Monastery Church and we went in to listen, lovely actually with Erik Satie 1st Gnossienne which I recognised and also a piece by Joseph Rheinberger.

Time for one of those Aperol moments …

… and dinner, Chris finally succumbing to his first haloumi burger, while I had amazing goulash.

Back on the road tomorrow to explore more of Transylvania …

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Our drive to Cluj was interesting!  All started well, but we lost phone signal for a bit … and also the connection to the sat nav … and having taken a turn in completely the wrong direction, it was a little while before we realised our mistake.  

It has been hard to judge what speed we should be driving as sticking to the limit has every car on the road overtaking us, but on the other hand we are visitors and should be cautious.  Then we were pulled over by the police … was it because we were speeding a little … no, it seemed they were just doing spot checks on vehicle papers so we were soon on our way.

Finally the traffic was heavy in Cluj, unsurprising in rush hour, but our journey had taken twice as long as expected.  Fortunately, we kept our accommodation informed on the way, because when we arrived, our host was saving us a car parking space by waiting in the road.

Citadel Rooms is just ten minutes walk to the main square but in a quiet street and our room was great.  

In the evening, we walked to Piata Unirii, the main square, dominated by the cathedral …

… but also by TIFF, the Transylvanian International Film Festival which has taken over lots of venues over the city for a couple of weeks to show international films.

Ate in the square watching the world go by …

… and glanced at the film on the way to bed.

In the morning we were brought coffee and a pastry which we ate outside on the balcony then set out to explore.

Cluj is the unofficial capital of Transylvania and another of the seven fortified Saxon towns, not that you’d realise as little remains of any fortifications. Today the continued Austrian-Hungarian heritage is far more apparent with fine Baroque and Secessionist buildings and wide streets, having much in common with Vienna or Budapest.

In front of this baroque backdrop, casually dressed students rub shoulders with the stylish city set and TIFF adds an extra artistic energy.

We began with the Ethnology museum which contains a huge range of utensil for every use but it was the costumes that were most interesting …

… and being able to get up close to some of the embroidery.

The Orthodox cathedral was nearby, a 1920’s Byzantine revival building …

… while the Murano mosaics from Venice were only added in 2001.

A maze of cobbled lanes lead from the main square, full of bars and restaurants and busy in the evening.  During the day it is quieter but we spotted a shady brasserie for lunch.

Opposite, was the Matthias Corvinus House is one of the oldest buildings in Cluj, built in the C15th in the gothic style.  Now an arts institute, it was the birthplace of Corvinus who became King of Hungary in 1458. 

There is also a statue of him in the main square beside the Cathedral of St Michael, built in the C14-15th in the German Gothic style like the Black Church in Brasov.

Inside, the hall church soars impressively sporting a later Baroque pulpit …

… and some C15th frescoes.

Also in the square are the Shot Pillars, seven bronze cylinders erected in 2003 to commemorate those gunned down in the 1989 revolution, around 26.

For a complete change of direction, the Steampunk Transylvania Museum is the only one in Europe, and since we’d visited the only other in the world, in Oamaru in New Zealand, we had to go!

It’s been open for three years and is filled with genuine technical collectibles, and inventive bits and pieces combined with artistic flair and inspired by Jules Verne. 

Quite a bit is interactive so it was fun to visit and could even make your hair stand on end!

While walking round earlier, we’d spotted Casa Veche, a restaurant offering a veggie version of samale filled with mushrooms and rice which Chris was eager to try so I kept him company and had the regular dish with smoked pork – another winning dinner!

Tomorrow we move on again 

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This is Romania at its most rural and least changed since the Middle Ages with families still following the traditional way of life. We have come to see wooden churches but have found so much else along the way.

In 1278, Orthodox Romanians were forbidden by their catholic Hungarian overlords to build their churches in stone, so they just built in wood instead.  Today is Sunday and first town we stopped in was Bogdan Voda, renamed in in the 1960’s in honour of the local ruler who founded the principality of Moldavia in the C14th.

The old wooden church of St Nicholas built in 1718 sits right beside its modern successor …

… and it shortly became apparent why a couple of people were waiting around as a procession approached from down the street, singing, all in their Sunday best. 

They came through the gate and processed three times round the church then the priest said a few words and they dispersed towards the new church. 

The priest then let us into the church which was empty of furnishings and seemed unused, but had painted murals on every wall, most showing bible stories and images from the life of Christ.  While we couldn’t take photos, we bought a leaflet and here are some pictures, of the Iconostasis and Doomsday & Death …

… The Nativity …

… and Samson with Delilah & the lion and Death on a Horse with a Scythe

As we drove on we saw more people in traditional dress and when we slowed the car beside one group, the lady in the striped skirt spoke good English and explained she was a bride to be married in a month, so she was in a special wedding outfit.  Her grandmother had embroidered her belt, and everything is handmade, including the stockings and leather shoes called opinci.  She asked if we would like a photo and here it is!

Next up was the Uniate church in Ieud, also built in 1718.  As we approached, a lady went to get the key to let us in. 

This church was charming and seemed to still be used. We were allowed to take photos, so here is the outer room lined with rug covered benches and decorated with adorned icons …

… and the inner room with the altar and brightly embroidered banners.

Botiza church was closed …

… again with a modern successor next door …

… but we walked around and the door looked interesting!

We saw a sign for Botiza Transfiguration Monastery which was built in 1991 in the traditional style.  It had a pretty garden …

… church and entrance gate. 

The nun inside was happy to turn a blind eye to a couple of photos!

At Poienile Izei, the church was open and having bought tickets from the lady there we could take pictures.

Although many of the murals were soot damaged and very dark …

… the textiles were bright and lovingly made.

Finally there was Barsana, where the original monastery had been closed in 1791 and this complex was begun in 1993. It includes the traditional Maramures gate, bell tower, church, summer altar, nuns’ cells and chapel all set in gardens …

… and a museum.

It might be intended to be calm and reflective, but it’s a popular family day out on a Sunday and the piped music made it a little surreal … a little like a theme park! Just before we left, we saw a nun striking a traditional paddle called a semantron to call the nuns to prayer.

We had booked a couple of nights in the village of Breb …

… staying at Pensiunea Lucia in the vila small farm with two houses, a courtyard, barn, orchard and vegetable garden.  

Iona and Lucia gave us the opportunity to enjoy traditional Maramureș hospitality and delicious home cooked food prepared from their own produce. We had dinner both nights starting with vegetable soups, then had new potatoes cooked with boiled eggs and sour cream with a tomato salad one night and polenta with mushroom stew the other. Homemade cake completed the meals, and certainly a drop of pakinka! 

Next day, after a typical farmhouse breakfast …

… we set off to Sapanta to visit the Merry Cemetery, famed for the work of the woodcarver Stan Ion Patras who spent his life making painted wooden grave markers, with pictures of the deceased or a scene from their life and a short rhyme. 

We had seen a book the evening before which sympathetically translated some of the verses into English, but google translate wasn’t up to the task, a shame as understanding the rhymes would have made it more relevant.

Here are a couple of photos with their translations from the book …

While we did stop at a couple more wooden churches, none were open, so we realised it was lucky we had seen so many the day before.

There are several things we have particularly noticed in the last few days, and the first is wells. It seems that most households have a well, and the water is still preferred for drinking and watering the garden and animals.  They come in all shapes and sizes, often with a roof and side panels, so here are a few!

Secondly, it is hay making season here in Maramureș, with much of the work still be done by hand. 

Most people have a small area of meadow and the hay is needed for winter feed for animals, or to be sold to those who do. Once the grass has been cut, it dries, is turned and then collected onto racks or piled in stacks.

We’ve also noticed how intricate the carving is on many of the traditional gates at the entrance to both churches and family homes.  There seems to be a deep cultural significance to the design which includes symbols like the tree of life, sun, rope and snake which protect the household from the world outside. 

They are not confined to old properties either – many newer homes have gates too …

… and some have dried twigs of foliage attached, which would have been put there at Pentecost to ward off the charmed spirits of the dead.

Finally beehives, not just individual ones sitting in a field, but caravans and lorries containing rows of beehives, easily portable to go where the flowers are!

We are now halfway through our trip, and it’s time to drive south …

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Today’s drive took us further into Moldova,   Along a river valley … 

… then upwards …

… to cross the Rarau mountains on the Transrarau road, also named the Road of Treasures.  Billed as the third most beautiful alpine drive in Romania, the highest stretch reaches 1,400m and has a camera enforced 30 kmh limit which just ensured we had time enough to enjoy the drive!  The view at the top was fab …

… and this is how the descent looked on the sat nav!

During the Middle Ages, all Romanian principalities were constantly threatened by the expansion of the Ottoman Empire so local rulers were kept on high alert and marked victories by having a monastery built on an important site.  Their exterior and interior walls are decorated with elaborate C15th and C16th frescoes featuring portraits of saints and prophets, scenes from the life of Jesus, images of angels and demons, and heaven and hell.  Deemed masterpieces of Byzantine art, they are infused with local folk art and mythology and also taught the stories of the bible. The monasteries are surrounded by fortified walls which could protect the community from attack.  

Voronet was built in 1488 for Stephen III of Moldavia to celebrate chasing the Turks from Wallachia and is considered the jewel of Romania’s painted church crown. We entered beside the north wall, where the frescoes have largely been worn away by weather …

… but as we walked round the the south side we could see the frescoes, still vivid after 450 years. 

Most of the south wall is covered by a Tree of Jesse which shows the genealogy of Christ and the intense shade of blue of the background contains lapis lazuli and is commonly known as Voronet Blue.

The area round the door shows a comic strip of the lives of St Nicholas and St John …

… but the Last Judgment on the west end is possibly the finest single composition among the painted monasteries showing zodiac signs at the top, then Christ seated with the faithful on the left to go to heaven and the penitent on the right (including Tatars and Turks!) to go to hell. Below devils push sinners into the flaming river to hell, and to the left, there is a crush of righteous at the gates of heaven!  

Photography within the church was forbidden so I can’t share, but there was a calendar of saints in the entrance showing martyrdoms and miracles, a tomb chamber next and then the main church with icons.  Every inch was covered in images even more vibrant than those outside.

Moving on, having bought a ticket to the monastery at Humor, we found was covered in scaffolding …

… but once inside we were able to take a couple of photos, and noticed how much more lifelike the images were, especially the prancing horses.

Sucevita Monastery was built in 1585 by the Moldavian princely grandsons of Petru Rares, Simion and Ieremia Movila and was a princely residence as well as a fortified monastery.  The Ladder to Paradise can just be seen under the scaffolding, with red-winged angels in rows and the righteous on a slanting ladder to the heavens, while sinners fall through the rungs and are driven by grinning devils to hell.

More remains on the south wall …

… with another Tree of Jesse …

… and a procession of angels, preachers and apostles on the curved east end.

We managed a couple of snaps inside. This is the votive picture of the two brothers and the family presenting the monastery to Christ …

… and a rather dashing Saint George.

We spent the night at Cabana Piatra Runcului, a homestay in Moldovita. 

We were made very welcome but for the first time, language was an issue as despite letting our host know Chris was vegetarian, his dinner came with pork stew.  Rather than fuss, he took as much from his plate and mine as possible onto a clean plate and called it a win, helped by several glasses of homemade fruit liqueur!  

After a breakfast of eggs, we took a ride on the Mocănița Huțulca, a restored narrow gauge steam train that once transported timber but now chugs to the hamlet of Argel and back. 

Everyone was jolly in our carriage, enjoying their day out and we were offered something to eat which looked a bit like a crepe, and people were tearing a piece off. It was sorici or salted pork skin, and I tried a small piece, not surprisingly a bit like shoe leather!

The idea of a a ride in a wood fired steam train doesn’t take into account how filthy the smoke is and full of smuts, but fortunately there was enough space to choose a seat that avoided the worst of it.  

There was some gorgeous mountain scenery along the way …

… then we arrived at Argel, where they had been cooking up a storm – shame we’d had breakfast!

Before long we were back aboard and making the trip back.

Across the road was a painted egg museum containing some 5,000 eggs painted by Lucia Condrea who spent her life practising this popular Romanian folk custom.  Using wax resist techniques, she took her patterns from local tradition but was also inspired by nature, carpets, lace and imagination!

Moldovita also has a monastery, completed in 1537 at the bequest of military leader Petru Rares, the illegitimate son of Stephen the Great. 

He still hoped to defeat the Turks, despite their continued advance after the fall of Constantinople and to raise morale, included this revised version of the Siege of Constantinople which shows Christians routing the infidel!

There is also a Tree of Jesse and Last Judgement, but here we could take photos inside, so here is the votive painting of the presentation of the monastery to Christ …

… an expressive Virgin and Child …

… an Annunciation …

… and a bunch of nonchalant warrior saints!

There seemed to be no holds barred taking photos here …

…or maybe the nun was just busy counting the takings!

Another ascent and we followed the road up 1400m to Prislop Pass which connects the historical regions of Bucovina and Maramureș over the Rodna Mountains and of course there is a monastery …

… and a view, but we didn’t linger as it was only 8.5°!

Hairpin bends to took us down to Borsa where we spent the night at Galileo, a pension and pizzeria … perfect!

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Omlett was so sunny …

… and proved a perfect start to the day, with their range of delicious eggy treats – Chris had eggs scrambled with spinach, spring onion, parsley and dill served with Burduf Romanian Cheese and I chose Cocotte eggs with spinach, béchamel & Grana Padano. 

Once on the road, our first stop was at Premjer fortified church, entered through a 30m tunnel with a portcullis in the middle!

The church was initially cross shaped, but was enlarged by the Cistercians in early Gothic style in 1240.

In the C15th it was surrounded by a 12m defensive wall …

… and we walked all the way round on the inside, looking out of various defensive openings …

… and then later it was fitted with four tiers of storerooms all the way round!

It was the most unusual building reminding us strangely enough of a football stadium, and here’s an aerial shot to make it clearer!

We then set off on a long drive across flat agricultural land, studded with villages. The road was good and pretty empty, but we got held up behind lorries with few chances to overtake. The speed limit dipped as we reached every town which made it easier to see the storks nesting on top of telegraph poles in huge nests, many with chicks.

Eventually we started climbing into the mountains and the mild hairpin bends helped Chris get in training for the Transfagarasan later in the trip!

We stopped for coffee and chips at a cafe before reaching Red Lake.

The road then entered the Bicaz Gorge, a scenic canyon between the provinces of Moldova and Transylvania. 

The limestone rocks towered above with a sheer drop on the other side.

Next up was the impressive dam built on the river Bistrița …

… forming Lake Bicaz, the largest artificial lake in Romania. It took most of the afternoon to drive the length of it.

Tonight’s stay was at the family run Pensiunae Orizont …

… where our room overlooked the mountains and hay drying in the field.

The garden had been made with much care with separate sitting spots surrounded by hedges and we sat there to eat. I had Tochitură bucovina made with pork, finished with eggs and Chris had a pizza and the bottle of local wine was very good, and only £6!

An early night and swift start and we have a lot to fit in tomorrow.

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The Carpathian mountains have one of the highest populations of brown bears in Europe and there are constant reminders from signs advising caution while walking, to bears on the beer bottles and advertising restaurants and souvenir bears.

Our first visit today was to the Libearty bear sanctuary which has some 100 rescued brown bears who now live safely in 69 hectares of forest.

There are just a couple of tours each day and the guide was swift to point out it was a sanctuary, not a zoo. 

The stories of where the bears came from and how they had been treated were deeply affecting but we were pleased to have seen the bears and supported the work of the volunteers who rely on visits and donations to feed and care for them.

We both came away sad that such a place was necessary, and reflected it would be better never to wish to see another wild animal if staying well away ensures their safety.

We couldn’t come to Transylvania without paying a visit to Bran Castle, billed worldwide as Dracula’s Castle, based entirely on the fact that it is the only castle in all of Transylvania that fits Bram Stoker’s description of Dracula’s Castle!

As for the name Dracula, Stoker probably derived it from the Romanian prince, Vlad Tepes – commonly known as Vlad the Impaler whose father was associated with the Crusader Order of the Dragon, or ‘Dracul’, but his castle is 80 miles away and we will pass the ruins later in our trip.

Bran castle certainly looks like the residence of a vampire count, perched above a craggy rock face with terracotta turrets soaring above, but it was built by the Saxons to protect the trade route.  

The castle receives a constant stream of visitors, many arriving on coach trips who seemed to constantly bump and jostle and we couldn’t wait to get out!

Having said that, I was taken with the tiled stoves, and snapped several.

Queen Marie, the last queen of Romania and a grand daughter of Queen Victoria spent her summers here in the 1920’s and 1930’s and the rooms inside the castle look much as they did then.

Of course there was a Dracula room …

… and finally, it would be hard not to see the photographic potential of the castle …

… it was just a shame so many strangers are in my pics!

On the way back, we stopped at Rasnov Fortress …

… which is bigger than Bran Castle and promised spectacular views …

… but the fortress is closed for renovation and when we arrived the advertised garden was just an overgrown meadow!

That evening as we walked through town …

Chris spotted Pilvax, a restaurant with a vegetarian section on the menu, the first so far, so we had to give it a go.

Chris had Transylvanian dumplings stuffed with cheese in a spinach purée …

… and I had Tafelspitz, actually an Austrian dish of simmered beef served with apple and horseradish and yogurt.

Chris was still a tad peckish, so we polished off a cheese plate with the last of our very lovely local wine, but it was yet another fab meal and brings our time in Brasov to a close.

Northwards tomorrow!

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Transylvania means beyond the forest, and having been first occupied by the Magyars from Hungary from 997, by the C13th, the Hungarian monarchy invited Saxons to settle and guard the mountain passes.  Brasov became one of Transylvania’s seven walled citadels and its location at the intersection of trade routes linking the Ottoman Empire and Western Europe helped it develop rapidly.  

Facing attacks from Turkey in the C15th, stronger fortifications were built with each defending bastion assigned to a particular guild, and we stayed in the medieval heart at the Old Town Suites. 

A rather unassuming entrance …

… led to an amazing apartment, with windows that opened onto a quiet pedestrian street. 

It was still a little grey as we headed to the main square, with the Brasov sign high on Mount Tampa behind. 

Our first priority was a snack and we went in search of a cafe serving coffee and cake but to no avail.  Instead we sat in a restaurant in the main square and ordered papanași, one of Romania’s most iconic desserts, sweet cheese dumplings served with berry jam and cream … we should have had one to share … but they were delicious!  

Revitalised by a sit down and some sugar, we set off to get a view of the town from above.   There are a couple of towers, The White Tower which looked most impressive …

… and here is the view …

… and the Black Tower …

… which gave a view including the front of the Black Church, the most famous medieval monument in Brasov.

Over 600 years old, this is the largest hall-church east of Vienna and one of the most impressive Gothic-style buildings in this corner of Europe.

The interior is quite austere, apart from a collection of Turkish prayer mats, brought back from the east by merchants …

… and the impressive pulpit and organ.

Catholic services were replaced with Lutheran ones during the Protestant Reformation, and recent research shows the name Black Church only followed discolouration by pollution in the C19th.

There was a burst of late afternoon sunshine which was most welcome.

Not really hungry later, we had a glass of wine in the square then shared a Romanian salata plate of which the zacusca was best made of aubergine and red pepper.

A second day in Brasov, and we visited the Muzeul de Arta which has a selection of works by Romanian artists but also a very engaging display of works produced in a community project to celebrate 25 years of the museum.

We also popped into the Muzeul de Etnografie which focused on costume, and woven and knitted textiles.

The technique to make filet lace for these caps was so time consuming and would have taken ages to master. 

Lunch in the square was a chance to try something new – this time the homemade carp roe salad, very similar to taramasalata and very delicious, while Chris had beans with onions and pickles.  To drink we had homemade soft drinks, one with elderflower and the other sea buckthorn, which I haven’t seen on the menu since we were in Russia.

Time for a little exercise, so we walked up to another part of the fortifications, The Weaver’s Bastion.

The three levels of combat galleries were fitted with a variety of shooting holes for different calibre weapons.

In addition there was storage to stock provisions and two guard towers …

… and from the roof, we got a different view of the city.

Funny though, as soon as we walked in, we were both reminded of The Globe Theatre!

Once at the bottom of the hill there were two gates, firstly the very splendid Catherine’s Gate which was built in 1559 as an entrance to Brasov’s City Walls and bears the city’s coat of arms: a crown on a tree trunk. 

In Saxon times, the Romanian speaking population were compelled to live outside the city walls and could only enter if they paid the toll.

Close by is the more modern Schei Gate built in 1825 …

… which has brought our tour of Brasov to a close.

Tonight we shared a cheese and tomato pie for supper and salad …

… and tomorrow we are off on day trip.

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Our drive from Bucharest airport took us across flat farmland on a good main road which made it easy to get used to the car and the road signs.  

Sinaia is our first destination, a mountain resort in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains which attracts hikers in summer and skiers in the winter.

There has been a monastery in Sinaia since the C17th, named after St Catherine’s on Mount Sinai.  A larger church was added in the C19th and the site became an annual summer residence for the Royal family, seeking the healthy mountain air, until the nearby Peleș Castle was completed in 1883 for King Carol I of Romania and the town grew into a resort.

We are staying at Vila Camelia, a charming confection of a building …

… with wood fittings and stained glass.

Having checked in, we went to explore. We had arrived on a holiday weekend, celebrating Pentecost so Sinaia was full of people enjoying a particularly warm and sunny day.

As we browsed the craft market …

… we spotted several older buildings between the more modern …

… including the old town hall …

… before stopping for a beer … a bear beer!

We took a wander in leafy Dimitrie Ghica Park …

… which centres round the Sinaia Casino, built by the King in 1912 …

… and as the sign informed us, Sinaia was the first town in Romania to get electric light …

We chose a typical restaurant for dinner, decorated with red and white rugs and huge painted vases and chose typical fare. I had samale, or cabbage rolls, filled with mince and rice and served with slices of smoked pork and polenta and Chris had polenta with sour cream and cheese. It was our first taste of Romanian home cooking and was a great end to our first day here.

We woke to an overcast morning with the threat of thundery showers but it looked ok after breakfast so we walked up the hill to see the monastery.  As we approached, we could hear the unaccompanied chant of the Orthodox service carrying on the air. 

The new church is under repair, but was completely full of worshipers so instead we found the old church which was tiny and a painted treasure.

The church portal depicts Moses with the Tables of the Law on the left and Aaron with the leafy staff on the right and the frescoes tell the life of St Catherine.

Inside the light reflected off the gold and illuminated the saints around the walls.

Just as we were leaving a few raindrops fell, changing to a downpour in seconds, and we took cover under the porch till it passed.

The other must-see in Sinaia is Peleș Castle, but today it is closed so we took footpath through the forest, rather wet from the shower …

… and made do with a snap from the viewpoint instead!

Just a short way out of Sinaia is Busteni where a cable car climbs the mountains to a variety of trails for a walk and views.  We did stop briefly, but it was obvious that it really wasn’t the best day to go up …

… so settled for a coffee instead.

Time now to move on … Transylvania beckons!

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