Moscow – Sapsan to Moscow

file-28ee24fb-628b-4426-bd8f-0cb40d484773-684-000000be63e034c6

The sapsan train took four hours to do 700km to Moscow. Billed as high speed, it’s certainly faster than all the other trains we’ve been on here but not quite a bullet train!

file-43aaefac-fd00-4878-951e-1dbb8909c953-684-000000be62f5a5cb
It then took 75 minutes to travel less than 6km on the bus to our hotel – maybe not the best transport choice in the rush-hour but it meant the least walking pulling cases. We spent most of this time at a standstill, giving us plenty of time to look about. We could admire the roadworks and new paving, no doubt in time for the footie fans next year.

file-717EAE9A-C90A-4E4F-B48F-4C85DAEEDE43-684-000000BE6D534D09file-246AC9C4-D5FF-43B6-AB89-91EA23274165-684-000000BD1278E2F6file-EA05F912-CDBB-483A-8238-DC303034DF2F-684-000000BD1134348Dfile-8882EB6B-6A18-4594-89D5-61C297F503E0-684-000000BD11DD4E71file-F457CEED-1691-4502-9B21-41486288D2AA-684-000000BD10732CAE

file-B43CF0F3-6FDE-4676-9261-3960D23CD1AB-684-000000CE12D269DF.jpg

But the last thing we expected to see, having travelled all round Kazakhstan, was a Sainsbury’s bag!

file-25E55A84-794B-441D-9986-42D63942F92C-684-000000BD0FADF1CB

We finally got to Hotel Arbat and the receptionist was adamant he needed our visa registration form, but I said we didn’t need one and didn’t have one … so he rang the last hotel and said they would send it … and he seemed happy to check us in so that was all that mattered.

We checked out a couple of restaurants and ended up choosing this one for dinner, with a huge bread oven for cooking katchapuri, Georgia’s version of pizza,  Chris was delighted and the khatchapuri went very well with a bottle of Georgian wine.

So tomorrow we get to explore!

St Petersburg – Peterhof

file-9511506E-8868-4CC3-BDF2-09F072A81D3A-684-00000063E0F183EBDisappointed that we didn’t see the Russian Museum yesterday, we decided to make it our first stop today, stopping en route to get a picture of the Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood with blue sky for the top of the post! Focusing solely on Russian art, the collection begins with icons from C10th and here are a couple we liked best like including the Life of St George. Icons were first painted as a spiritual exercise for monks and to aid the veneration of the holy subjects they depict. Some believe they can bring luck or grant wishes. The latter icons have been influenced by European art and gain a naturalistic look and perspective like The Trinity.

There are 94 rooms in the museum arranged chronologically, so we had to prioritise, focusing on works that either showed Russian life or a distinct Russian style.

Moving forward in time, we noticed Malevich had more in his repertoire than just a Black Square … he could run to a circle and cross as well, and some colour!

Another jump forward and these caught our eye …

… and having said we’d seen little sign of Soviet times, here is some china from the Soviet era.

With an afternoon ahead of us we then took the 30 minute hydrofoil to Peterhof. Originally, Peter the Great built a cabin here to oversee the construction of the naval base, but he liked the place so much he built a villa called Monplaisir, then a whole series of palaces. Today, much is a reconstruction following damage in WWII, partly by the Germans, but also Soviet raids by Stalin to prevent Hitler hosting a New Years party here.

We entered through the Lower Gardens and followed the Water Avenue to the magnificent Grand Cascade, partly engineered by Peter himself. The statue of Samson tearing open a lions jaws celebrates Peter’s victory over the Swedes at Poltava and the central fountain shoots water up 62m. The Grand Palace stands as a backdrop to the jets of water and we would have liked to look round but individuals cannot prebook tickets, the queue was long and we have already seen several palaces.

file-9511506E-8868-4CC3-BDF2-09F072A81D3A-684-00000063E0F183EB

file-1651BB2C-B4C9-40C4-83ED-72ECE45BEB13-684-00000063DFF18893file-823A2157-62B4-474F-AE6B-F2DCFA89076C-684-00000063DEDD5CEFfile-49E4EBCA-AC13-4B01-A330-910C31658D6E-684-00000063DE27CD64file-D5E9C5D7-0331-49BB-BC81-79D65FFD5FA1-684-00000063D0724909

file-79C81A9B-CDE3-42D2-8E73-D566E56DE01D-684-00000063DDD57816file-8C924683-73CE-443D-97EA-F2B3C08D6166-684-00000063DD55423B

Instead we wandered happily in the sunshine, seeking out a number of smaller fountains in the grounds. We considered icecreams but thought capitalism was doing rather too well to be charging £4 each.

file-D48E415F-962A-4745-B11A-E9C98FD4652B-684-00000063DCB675F3file-0C0F5E72-49EA-493D-A9AA-8CDA7BA783FD-684-00000063DAF916D6file-9E617BC4-2309-4E99-8BD8-B36BC3320CEF-684-00000063DC040DADfile-EBA23C4E-6550-4D1A-8E19-4FD8FFE36BEF-684-00000063DABBFE05file-5649E655-6409-4BA2-B34C-A1FD4921F3A2-684-00000063D86697E4file-DDF22A8E-45CF-4CAF-A36B-294B610FE1E2-684-00000063D9F94902file-9817E513-BAC5-4928-A7B3-F42BAFF69406-684-00000063D752F1A8file-F15CE1BA-22A6-4748-93EE-6B64639372C7-684-00000063D928D8BAfile-FB406FB0-EE67-47F1-B722-F6113E80917F-684-00000063D7160D3Efile-DBAE7357-FF65-4D5D-84ED-3C1844AF0FB8-684-00000063D64AB3F3

We came across Monplaisir, Peter’s favourite retreat and took a look inside. It was far more modest – snug and wood-panelled and we had a look round before heading back to the city.

file-8BF2ED42-B7D6-4A9B-B293-1A7BC17C1788-684-00000063D593BB88file-B934A9F3-5DB0-4145-BCC9-C8B826A7F759-684-00000063D4BEA17B

We went to the Cat Cafe for dinner run by a husband and wife team and only with about 30 covers so it’s lucky we booked. Georgian restaurants became popular, influenced in part by Stalin’s Georgian ethnicity and the food has a Middle Eastern influence with as many vegetable dishes as meat dishes.  We began with a selection of phkali – made with various chopped vegetables combined with ground walnuts and dressing into a patty, lobiani or red bean pie, chakapuly or lamb with tarragon and aubergine with cheese. Chris tried a couple of Georgian beers and I had a very good Georgian dry red wine.

file-F028D35A-693B-4FE9-81AD-7572E4C9B249-684-00000063D27F0A7D

One last thing to see in St Petersburg, but before that, breakfast.  There has been porridge every day, which I tried and found a little sweet, as were the blini filled with sweet cheese. There have also been fried eggs and today we had fat buttermilk pancakes called oladyi which were great – not to mention the huge spread of juice, cereal, fruit, cheese, salad, toast … One other thing to mention was the wonderful carrot and pepper pickle to eat with cheese … I’ve taken a picture of the label and will hope to bring some home!

file-4B2538B0-71FC-4E83-BF2D-8E7D6D7C81CA-684-00000063D01494A4

And last, but certainly not least, the Faberge Museum where the highlight was the imperial Easter eggs.

This tradition began when Alexander III commissioned Faberge to make an Easter egg with a surprise inside for his wife after seeing something in an international exhibition while travelling.  Here is the first quite modest egg with a white enamel egg, gold yolk and golden chicken …

file-E24B7C74-E7D1-4652-9E6D-E3D2F711C208-684-00000063CE0B5A2C

From then on, they got more elaborate but were also closely researched with meaning behind every detail of decoration. The Renaissance Egg takes inspiration from an Italian Renaissance casket …

file-632B9BA3-0F2F-444D-881B-E8D1E110D2B7-684-00000063CD6C1673

… the Coronation Egg, containing a perfect replica of their coach …

file-2382480D-D901-48DC-9ABB-421F1955B907-684-00000063CCBB2B43

… and the celebratory Fifteenth Anniversary egg.

file-2D727B7B-B2F4-48D4-BDA7-5C8F043BB537-684-00000063CC5665AE

My favourites though were the Lilies of The Valley Egg with family miniatures popping out of the egg …

file-9AC61011-0E9A-4143-A715-487DCA993FAE-684-00000063CBDC2027

… and the Baytree Egg with a singing bird.

file-09454D80-AD26-4799-BDC9-832E4520E80E-684-00000063CB4F5970

Finally, after these eggs caught on, some were made for other clients like these Egg Clocks – one with a mechanism raising a singing cockerel from the centre …

file-7332B31A-D8FF-4937-8309-971B342F07AF-684-00000063CA59F9CE

… and this gorgeous one for the Duchess of Marlborough with a snake’s head marking the time, which was Chris’s favourite.

file-8D3E8E6A-D1A6-4163-A3A0-3CA37D173051-684-00000063CAD4B705

Then there were cases of gold and silver object, enamelled and painted trinkets and icons set into fabulous frames all displayed in yet another palace with fabulous interiors … all in all a real jewel!

file-57E3C45E-4360-44CE-8879-89DFCF1FA0C8-684-00000063C25CF8B0
After all that excitement, it’s time to leave St Petersburg for the next stage of our trip.

St Petersburg – Church on the Spilled Blood and around

file-3BE2639E-CE63-44EF-902E-C1119AC9BF57-1623-0000014DE5F52E4B

Having got back late last night, we checked into Anabel at Nevsky 88 and went straight to bed.

Today, we walked down Nevsky Prospekt, the city’s most famous street, taking in the variety of shops. We crossed Anichkov Bridge with horses at either end …

file-BEC08FFB-5639-4543-A83B-9EDC16D92C25-1623-0000014DFFDE7A48file-61C507E5-1F21-4C4A-B0B0-85697677F483-1623-000001598B9D8A15file-29F73CB4-8938-45AC-BA37-13092967CB46-1623-0000014E007B93BD

…and headed to Kupetz Eliseevs which was built in 1905 as the flagship store for a wealthy merchant with several grocery stores. It is built in Style Moderne, Russia’s art nouveau offering adding curvaceous flourishes to buildings all over Russia, and it is a stunner, with huge plate glass windows, and a dazzling interior of stained glass and polished brass, as well as automatons in the window and a piano that plays itself.

file-D9D2B4FB-13E3-4C5F-BEF8-2BDF7029C2A2-1623-0000014DFEFCEEBFfile-10BB01BB-8668-4509-BFCE-2C51F5E6A08B-1623-0000014DFE6E2353file-97C5B133-9A2D-4B39-84BB-589E16CA9C20-1623-0000014DF5E1354Cfile-B7B3BA84-59F7-415A-881A-5F5A17DBB834-1623-0000014DFDE4E9FEfile-6F24AF7F-E6E7-4DC3-8637-32BC1450FFA7-1623-0000014DF8A0744Efile-ADC1DCFD-C10B-442E-AC2C-F6A94BA94CE5-1623-0000014DFA845A36file-2F7AC48C-BC40-4A5D-8783-FE2C5276C282-1623-0000014DF7E9C32Cfile-9DEFE17D-0A5C-44C0-BAD3-6A2CED0AA2C3-1623-0000014DF784F7E1file-2C5BA574-B4BB-45F7-89D7-E29A1282EF3E-1623-0000014DF70C6941file-73A8C386-D535-487D-9931-E882BD9637BF-1623-0000014DF673AC73

Passage is a glass-roofed arcade from the C19th …

file-23E93AD1-D5D3-414B-B4BC-992E6D584D35-1623-0000014DF343BFD5

… and Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor, is one of the worlds first indoor shopping malls and extends 240m along the road, although we didn’t go inside.

file-F9F75739-00DD-4FA2-91B8-19BF63C76E71-1623-0000014DF2A5A1F5

The other Style Moderne edifice is the Singer Building, topped by a glass cupola and globe held up by two female sculptures and offers a great view of Kazan cathedral.

file-00AEB619-9869-492F-A44F-2B36ED2DDB2D-1623-0000014DF1BE2C94file-CBA94504-EE89-4F06-A162-8A3D6CFD050B-1623-0000014DF06CDB58file-43191A95-6127-4B5E-850D-2A59FAADE22F-1623-000001599B13D986file-FD89C451-DB2A-43EF-A72C-09782114FFA4-1623-0000014DF1302699

While talking Style Moderne, here is Pont Au Rouge, a smart department store …

file-AB97F450-C04F-4364-9F91-8F90F168D15D-1623-0000014DEF8CF06Bfile-ED1869CC-94CD-48F3-962D-D7AD265F32F6-1623-0000014DEF145A7B

… and a few other bits I’ve noticed …

file-717B07ED-CD44-4F8E-8839-BAE0E78B4CBF-1623-0000014DEACD8DB8

file-6DB74200-45F7-44A0-AC11-A8D7A0ED5753-1623-0000014DEA317479Back to our walk, Bankovsky most, billed as the prettiest bridge in town, unfortunately had its golden-winged griffins covered for restoration.

Then we reached a technical hitch as the Russian Museum we thought would be open wasn’t, but we might have time to return tomorrow. A snap of Pushkin in the square had to suffice.

file-76AF2ABB-3982-418A-A91D-DDD62CDF5F50-1623-00000159A12A7DAF

Anyway, some you lose and then some you win as we were surprised to find the Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood open, although it had come over a bit cloudy.  It was built to commemorate the bombing of Tsar Alexander II in 1881, with a canopy inside over the very spot. This is a unique example of Russian Revival architecture with colourful tiling and mosaics on the outside …

file-126D7CDC-57B0-41DE-AE94-62F135A6D89D-1623-0000014DE84A707D

… and even more mosaics on the inside – some 7000 sqm in all.

file-3655DE2E-19E4-4FA5-BD9A-94DC534B6044-1623-0000014DE42B983Cfile-67EB9228-2BE4-4B98-869E-F5A02A7CA4D6-1623-0000014DE30D2186file-D4D9B3EB-E059-45FB-B5CC-304558F36CDA-1623-0000014DE3A449B0file-70F1E566-9A54-4EB4-A217-40E4CF06917E-1623-0000014DE4B394E9file-784A2457-769D-4757-9EA0-706A1C7DA4F0-1623-0000014DE26F19EBfile-C0F38A41-6A0E-4404-97B1-CF80F6E0C3A8-1623-0000014DE13EE782file-05E06820-61CE-4A06-9F85-8058141F1D4D-1623-0000014DE1D7604Cfile-DEEEA2FD-97B8-4071-A198-88BB98AE8D2E-1623-0000014DE69AA4AB

I’d found a treat for lunch, Botanika, a fusion vegetarian restaurant with charm and a fusion menu. Leo Tolstoy said that vegetarianism was the criterion by which one can understand to what degree of seriousness and sincerity a person strives towards moral perfection. Chris says that’s a couple of things to think about but he thought he was there! We picked the Russian dishes and tried pirozhki which were small filled buns one with potato and dill and the other apple and cinnamon, blini which came as rolled pancakes filled with soft cheese and a trio of salads – one with beets and cucumber in vinaigrette, another with grated carrot, nuts and cardamom and the last a Russian diced vegetable salad with mayonnaise. Everything was delicious and we were sorry we weren’t hungry enough to try more!

After lunch we looked round the Museum of Decorative and Applied Art, which not only is a lovely building but contains beautiful objects collected  by Baron Stieglitz to inspire students in his design school which he opened in 1898.

file-9A6075C7-5334-4AAE-8254-856F7C509A7F-1623-0000014DDE6E7290

The   Terem Room in the style of the Terem Palace in the Moscow Kremlin was stunning …

file-40936A81-9161-46D5-9B02-25B1EE629B35-1623-0000014DD0CB1BEEfile-70AACFDA-55E4-486B-A8E2-6469C0B4E991-1623-0000014DCFC8AD54

.., and then there were floor tiles …

…and ceilings …

file-24DF97A3-40D5-4B25-9523-6DE719236C0E-1623-0000014DDD613F82file-B2F0F88C-67B5-4EBE-8196-2E5E0D4AAE45-1623-0000014DDC3B0EF9file-C6FBFA88-102E-49C4-AD58-DA3A803EA22D-1623-0000014DDCCA20AE

… stoves and railings!

file-F5001095-0918-4B80-972A-3E4DC78A3B84-1623-0000014DDB49B62Afile-03C7183E-72A5-472D-AF1F-9DCE3EFBEDA9-1623-0000014DDBC1F1E8

We ended our day with a 90 minute sightseeing boat trip round the heart of the city, fortunately snuggled under red blankets as the air had got a little chilly …

file-A3E26504-0885-46A0-9741-A99E47BB13DB-1623-0000014DDAB43565

spotting all the places we have visited …

file-38C1BDFA-F2A9-409D-ACCE-433A18E1A96E-1623-0000014DDA13D60E

and a few that we haven’t like the blue domes of Trinity Cathedral …

file-1A42415A-1FC4-40DE-80D0-1608EDB1C566-1623-0000014DD9903FBE

… the pink facade of the Stroganov Palace where the chef invented that very famous dish …

file-0A4A61A9-C0B3-4175-875A-3DF6EE9E8895-1623-0000014DD9046417

… a better view of the Peter and Paul Fortress surrounding the Cathedral where all the Russian Tsars are buried …

file-0CCEE961-22A8-4849-BD57-FE839B502924-1623-0000014DD852CBC7

… and the statue of a rabbit since this fortress island is nicknamed Rabbit Island, and is meant to bring luck.

file-075CA598-2931-466A-96EC-C27714C7B527-1623-0000014DD7D353B5

So far the only reference to the Soviet era that we have seen in St Petersburg have been a rather dilapidated relief on what used to be the Ministry of Culture.

file-335BDB79-36E0-4CAF-8C07-00CB5E28FBBD-1623-0000014DD2E78008

That is until this evening when we ate at Kvartirka – Soviet Cafe, decorated like a sitting room of the time. The best bits were the Ukha Russian Style fish soup, which came with a little fish pie and a shot of vodka, the aubergine rolls filled with cheese and some delicious cherry filled Ukranian dumplings called vareniki.

We played several games of dominos in between courses and had a lovely time!

Karelia – Petrozavodsk and Kizhi

file-78460B74-7252-4D6F-B0DF-411D36289F8A-410-00000049ECFEBF9AThere was a slight last minute rescheduling for the next couple of days due to a broken hydrofoil which meant we still managed to do all we wanted, but had to catch the ridiculously early 7am bus next day, well before most sensible people were up! There had been thunder and lightening in the night, which I’d slept through and lots of rain and the morning was grey and damp.

file-AAD39CAD-56AE-4791-B0F2-67D7BE09E0C8-410-00000049F5CB93E8file-8B43D51E-F772-4DB0-9443-B9E06EF52E91-410-0000004BA9F6BEECfile-DDB812D8-3B7C-49A6-9A4B-237BB6980653-410-00000049F4B1F8D3

Four hours later, we rolled into Petrozavodsk, the capital of Karelia and checked in to the rather splendid looking Hotel Severnaya …

 

… then down to the jetty to catch the hydrofoil to the island of Kizhi which is in the middle of the vast Lake Onega.

file-61F404D6-0E11-4CF3-A4D5-383227216E84-410-00000049F1A8FB96file-9CEA285C-BEC1-4B70-AC9C-34BEA367A9C0-410-00000049F138B005

The journey was a little bumpy so I couldn’t read, so instead I listened to the Karelia Suite by Sibelius which our friend Simon told us about before we came away. The Intermezzo is particularly stirring and quite captured the feel of rushing through the water with tall pine forests beside us. If you are curious, you can listen too!

Kizhi has dozens of C18-19th wooden buildings brought from all over Karelia during Soviet times.

file-AB71B472-8959-4AA1-A39C-472AE8708EE3-410-0000004BA5E6323B

The main attraction is the Transfiguration Church which is undergoing major restoration and so unfortunately not looking at its best.

file-A0AC8350-F9F0-4009-877F-DBB25DB9A8FF-410-00000049EFF8D09Afile-A970DA9E-78E4-4965-8E0E-39D162646230-410-00000049EF9C25CD

Beside it is the bell tower and the Church of the Intercession which we went into and saw the glittering iconostasis inside. The cupolas on the buildings are covered with wooden scales, a bell tower and there are clever external decorations to keep the water off the walls.

file-2D1FF077-AF3F-4B76-8DC9-344D6BB362BD-410-00000049EE124563file-C37B799F-85B1-4D9C-8C0F-3A79AA9D19CB-410-00000049ED7FFCC4file-31FF6E13-50B5-4AB5-B1C2-C54AD166767A-410-00000049EE933533file-F54E772D-A9A8-4CB8-9CD5-78378046FE44-410-00000049EF14C456
There was a trail connecting other buildings including houses, barns, windmills and churches but first we stopped, in the rain, to tuck into our picnic of hard boiled eggs, cucumber, bread and apples!

file-9E1F4A01-5284-48F8-9639-4E115099C288-410-00000049EC9FE56Dfile-1A2233CC-D597-4BFF-8085-9F865CCF11DF-410-00000049EC1D3F45
The Oshevnec House was furnished, with living quarters on the ground floor and workshops above.

file-2609EB0E-2CF7-4CFA-B17A-4D84D7240D93-410-00000049EB9DE533file-2BACD019-5D32-4C81-8F67-86E4B4EB7AEB-410-00000049EA95C600file-E492DF79-6772-45BD-9332-318AE41C44A2-410-00000049EB0F2F9Dfile-E54AE49A-5B5F-4900-9C09-4A4CD0315ABA-410-0000004B9E37ABCAfile-14DC2168-10CF-4138-A0E5-3480FB312A32-410-00000049EA103C32file-43D3C325-D089-4A03-9A8A-931B1CB6033B-410-00000049E984C4CF
The Chapel of the Archangel Michael had bells which were played several times with a very tinkly musical sound. The clangers were connected with string and were played by pressing down on the strings.

file-23DBBD65-A76C-4F5D-BD17-9F3FAD3E5343-410-00000049E720E161
The Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus is claimed to be the oldest wooden building in Russia.

file-2E288CC7-A888-4FC4-979B-E92507EF6F16-410-00000049E6B6C4C9.jpg
The Sergiev House was also furnished and had a ramp from the loft for access and a vegetable plot.

file-6EAC7F81-4457-426C-B03F-EC76AC5B116E-410-00000049E5C6D64A

It was a long day, and we napped on the hydrofoil which got back to Petrozavodsk at 7.30. Lured by the promise of the first Karelian restaurant complete with costumed waitresses we went for dinner at Karelskaya Gornitsa. On the plus side, it was only across the road, it looked quite cute and there were vegetarian options for Chris. On the downside, it was the most expensive by far and definitely the least tasty, but we did end with some interesting tinctures – Forest Charms which was a bit medicinal but packed a punch and cloudberry liqueur made from a fruit like an orange raspberry which was a bit sweet.

We awoke to brilliant sunshine and while we cant complain as yesterday was the first grey day in a week here, it was a real shame that we hadn’t had a blue sky to set off those fabulous wooden buildings.  The breakfast buffet was also interesting – I went for the oatmeal with dried fruit and some watermelon while Chris went for some eggy squares with beetroot and olives. We also finally came across the famous Karelian pastries, made with rye flour and with a small amount of egg and rice filling which may have been delicious if straight from the oven, but this one was not.

file-3D1C4CFC-C7C0-457E-BD3E-935F74CAD6BE-410-00000049E2339FE6
We had a slow day with a wander round town in the sunshine …

file-37C25CA4-B57E-4EDB-B1BD-CCC01CBC007C-410-00000049F3E52C57file-7CCF2D10-98B3-4C7C-9A62-3EDFDE9BC84F-410-00000049E1B8C086file-8A039FB1-9F39-42C2-B9E1-3F11173C0DD7-410-00000049E12F9798
down to the lakeside promenade with a collection of contemporary sculpture …

file-05EC2CB8-6B01-4B77-AEDB-A155FE67C612-410-00000049E092C2AEfile-ADD059FA-B22F-4D1E-A8E8-6D2A7F380C94-410-00000049E020AA1Cfile-23317392-97D1-48F7-8B53-2A45AEC5D33A-410-00000049DF8D2A41file-F3093D71-1F47-4281-A3EE-E5C9305B062E-410-00000049DF0140C5file-386AE8B5-763C-4C3E-B6D8-E726203B16D0-410-00000049DE830FD1file-3B239198-B854-46E4-8010-5C86B32EEBE7-410-00000049DE04EB59file-EEE01C60-4D11-4D40-B47D-60D5136586BB-410-00000049DD8192AAfile-B1F4F674-FD0B-462E-BC07-F612A77DF43C-410-00000049DD028DE6
… and back past the Museum of Fine Arts which was closed, the theatre with some metal sculptures on its facade and several fancy looking cafes.

file-4F6CBD5D-A613-474B-91E4-D72E8BFF1278-410-00000049DC8BDBD0file-197B6383-9B39-4298-902D-0C8DD597E6CC-410-00000049DBC484AAfile-322B4E12-1B70-4694-A6BE-DA4583D566B3-410-00000049DB5C9B0F
The circular Ploshchad Lenina, which incongruously in English but not in Russian, used to be called the Round Square is the heart of neo-classical Petrozavodsk with a statue of Lenin in the centre.

file-BBE44809-3F7C-4678-8307-B61ACC5D2D15-410-00000049DAD86051.jpg
We had a late lunch and picked up snacks before going to the station for the train back to St Petersburg which got in at 11pm so it was straight to bed.

file-B0EBA64D-0559-4927-956F-0ECFD2A19719-410-00000049DA77BE28file-6F47412B-5EE2-4AD2-A129-77D1E57B62BC-410-00000049D9EBFB33

Karelia – Sortavala and Valaam

file-8374B9A8-0A52-4706-A8BC-569FE729DF83-410-00000046910F51EBWe are now heading north to the Republic of Karelia, a land of lots of trees and over 60,000 lakes. Karelians are Finnic people with their lands stretching into Finland and their own culture and cuisine including Karelian pasties.

Unfortunately, we had under estimated the time it would take to return, collect our luggage and make our way to the Ladizhskaya Station … and while I had thought we needed to exchange our reservation for tickets, the queue was too long, so Chris whisked us down to our platform and thrust our reservation in the hands of the guard standing at the only remaining open door of the train, who told us to get on and within seconds the train was on its way! What a close call that was and what a hero Chris was … especially as this was the one and only train going our way today!

So this is a fairly standard long distance train with seating, and sleepers for those going further than the 260km we are travelling. We had 5.5hrs to take in the scenery and be watched over by the coach attendant who is queen of the samova, providing boiling water for anyone who wants it, free of charge, and tea and coffee for a small charge. Fortunately we had snacks as there had been no time to stop for a sandwich.

The journey took us past farmland and forest, with water close by all the time.

P1040589P1040603

P1040607P1040610

P1040614P1040616

We arrived in Sortavala at 20.30 – or at least we hoped we were in the right place because this was the sign …

file-5B8D5C81-5BD4-4C5D-B112-F29A9804DEFE-410-000000469777A75F

We took a taxi to Apartment on 40 Let VLKSM where we are staying, another place that looked a little worrying from the outside but perfectly fine within, in fact a spacious loft conversion, just for us.

We walked over the road to Cafe Relax for dinner, concerned it might be getting too late to be served, but we needn’t have worried. I had Russian salad with mussels and Vespian hotpot with beef, mushrooms, potatoes and lingonberries while Chris had  pancakes stuffed with mushrooms and egg fried cauliflower.

Next morning we were at the port in time for coffee and a bun before catching the 9.00 hydrofoil to Valaam. Chris urged me to mention he had a 45 in his pocket … a prime 45 Olympus lens!

file-4818E50D-D7A6-47EF-B5A1-299B71AA1511-410-00000046828F8CCCfile-367B592C-0A39-47C8-8880-78B8EFC1BBBD-410-000000469721DC61

file-8D3C9243-2CE7-4582-805F-1D250E064F70-410-0000004696728935file-FB0FCCDC-2F03-46AB-BAB3-E07CE12B7399-410-0000004695B69B95

This island in Lake Lagoda, the largest lake in Europe, is home to Valaam Monastery, one of the most famous centres of spiritual retreat and monastic life in Russia. The blue and white domed Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour dominates and is the home of a specific Valaam chant which originated here and is apparently still sung, although not while we were there!

file-FEDDD7C9-8BE6-4BB5-ADB9-A7BC4EB79ACE-410-00000046952AA6E8file-9DA04821-F0E3-4A4F-9A8D-09B684C86010-410-0000004694C2E51Ffile-A4BDBBEF-9FCD-4830-A33B-188133100E07-410-000000469423DFBC

We entered the lower church first, a  vaulted crypt with the tombs of several revered monks and icons of various saints arranged round the columns. The huge central chandelier was made of delicate gilded filigree work. Women need to wear headscarves to enter. It was very busy, with worshippers approaching the icons in turn, bowing, crossing themselves and whispering a prayer before approaching and resting their forehead on the perspex panel protecting the lower part of the icon or kissing it. Some lit candles too.  The upper church was really beautiful with a huge gilded wall of icons and religious paintings, separating the nave from the sanctuary called an iconostasis. Every inch of wall was painted with pictures telling bibles stories and saints connected by patterned borders, all with a very pleasing colour and tone. Photos were not allowed, but I found out afterwards someone took a sneaky photo on his phone!

file-57073D80-3E3D-4331-9475-B536FC9291CC-410-00000046928487A7file-F418D72E-115E-4AFD-B9C4-55BCCC5CECD9-410-0000004691C9DB23

From here, we wandered round the monastery complex and out along a path that took us to Nikolski Skete.

file-4DA670FD-BCDC-4456-8546-748F664B8620-410-000000468E930315file-2154EBEA-0FAC-43AF-BE9F-A43F865064B9-410-000000468E2C23B7file-B2D4B56A-0700-4969-8FC0-214317FE5DD1-410-000000468DA29EB6file-37692D0C-D25B-44F5-AEEB-77F9169EE45C-410-000000468D156545file-8FD0D1DD-5D46-484A-BDE0-353A891A3CBF-410-000000468CAB9353

There are several small monastic communities called sketes, where several cells are arranged around a central church and provide a bridge between a communal lifestyle and that of a hermit. This church was lovely too – more gilding, more icons and beautiful paintings.

file-8DDD0D3F-0B5F-4C62-84DE-7A482A716A39-410-000000468C07ABD3file-6CB10830-A9C6-4457-826A-17E267A15F5F-410-000000468B9CBE81IMG_1209

We found a lovely picnic spot, overlooking the water where we ate bread cheese and tomatoes bought in the little shop. A jet ski outing of some 20 riders came zooming along to entertain us.

file-1E14461A-DCC2-4F91-97F0-BDB0F1BFA6AB-410-000000468AAB7CD5file-52F74DD9-0795-48C7-B621-7F8E758FD17C-410-000000468B11B0E6file-46D95B06-7E81-4B0F-9054-32120BF1DC1F-410-000000468A2A9845file-992AE5EC-F9EF-4D97-9102-0188DFB109FE-410-0000004689A94664file-A6F5A0D2-95F7-4108-8524-FB706D067437-410-00000046893A8757

We wandered back to the dock, taking lots of  pictures of the pretty views at every turn and caught the hydrofoil back.

We wandered through town …


… bought bus tickets and provisions for the next day, then chilled with a cup of tea before returning to Cafe Relax for dinner where had another yummy meal before an early night.

St Petersburg – Marvellous Metro

file-1345A1B4-E193-4933-8C5A-CA44D5B5024B-431-000000465D032C22

Today we are leaving St Petersburg for a trip north, but before we leave Inn Aldebaron, I want to share the engineering and sculptural beauty of the geyser in our bathroom and the delights of our breakfast tray.  We have been beautifully looked after during our stay and communicating  with smiles, laughs and google translate.  The only thing we won’t miss is the 71 steps to the third floor!

 

We had a spare couple of hours in the morning so went metro hopping to visit a few of the stations, nearly all all of which have some decoration or other.

file-1BE96336-604F-413E-902C-1C9541445658-431-000000468BD6BFF9

We began with Admiralteyskaya, the city’s deepest station, taking over two minutes on the escalator to reach the platform.

P1040160

file-B22F8C52-FD13-4FC0-9FE5-B8E2975BA5ED-431-0000004688DBD3B3

The mosaics tell the story of Peter the Great building the Russian fleet.

file-7AFE2AA3-648C-4C45-92FE-573612B54981-431-000000468A1A55CF

file-31892C13-DFBB-4A07-B90C-D27B54CC87ED-263-0000000BAC6B8FB2file-40458045-CF62-47FA-B0C5-01795B5E0770-431-0000004685A8B29Bfile-1852F6D3-A246-41AE-A79E-8921B9FBF280-431-00000046898A8698file-4D881E54-DD5A-45AA-B9FA-F2BE3EEA2167-431-000000465822AD33

And a few more!

file-D310CE64-74BB-48B2-B5C6-98F717D2D7BD-431-000000468508AE0Cfile-AF2533A5-6442-427F-8AF7-82D316796509-431-000000468652DACFfile-D9B0E9DC-CD2B-486B-8614-5A24CDA8F0B1-431-00000046875A081Dfile-0601A849-45D6-4E2D-9488-C41B4A6D851F-431-000000468815D8E2

Next up Pushkinskaya, celebrating the famous poet …

file-5D964E20-4EAB-4104-A2D8-24BAF8C8593F-431-00000046845A44E0

file-1D6C861B-70D1-462F-8642-10418FF873E2-431-0000004682C1354Cfile-640FFE51-943E-4139-A9A1-F7FE3AADFCF0-431-000000467CB7D97C

We also went up to look at the ticket hall …

file-BFFBC638-303C-496B-9C10-9D33894BE058-431-000000467768B33B

 

… then Tekhnologichesky Institut with reliefs of famous Russian scientists and details of major scientific achievements.

file-0482AE7D-2E9E-417A-B65D-142BC892289B-431-00000046766E0EBE

 

file-9281F704-19D5-4BD3-A8CB-0E0D66966B2A-431-00000046741C8B49

A blank shot from the Aurora signalled the start of the assault on the Winter Palace at the beginning of the October Revolution in 1917 and this is depicted in mosaic at Baltiyskaya as well as a blue wave motif.

file-47AA1B32-0F4B-4B03-A647-848C9B2BA1FB-431-000000467152204Ffile-682CCA48-5A80-44B8-99EE-5D20B0EC65E1-431-0000004670AA13BFfile-EAF15519-EE8C-4055-8B82-8A348EBE930C-431-0000004672A39168file-A241E33D-EFBD-4D22-A42D-4F755722D144-431-0000004671FE4CBA

Narvskaya features carvings of proletariat workers such as engineers, sailors artists and teachers on the station columns …

file-3610E8F1-20DD-46C0-AB9E-796BAA0C9E97-431-0000004669C81200file-171B7AE6-7E17-4F87-8FAC-296EC261A576-431-000000466A74BA71

 

file-5EE0162C-6916-41EF-8E5A-6F5B23F1B55B-431-000000467001B302

 

 

… while Kirovsky Zavod takes its inspiration from the oil industry with a bust of a scowling Lenin at the end of the platform.

file-5CEE2C6B-BD53-4D39-94D1-E2757471CC9C-431-00000046653D94D1file-967EF513-D66E-42B4-9C78-225E450A5C09-431-00000046673BE513file-3216ABB6-3CB2-4020-A662-19FC54C4002A-431-0000004666890B7F

 

 

file-546A7B35-9FAE-48CD-B4A8-0779CCDB1C16-431-00000046626D5D8F

Our favourite was last, Avtovo, with stunning marble and cut-glass covered columns, fit for any palace, and a relief of soldiers in the entrance.

file-2DA02729-2AD2-4C96-8A56-728CB55564AD-431-000000466055CA44file-1345A1B4-E193-4933-8C5A-CA44D5B5024B-431-000000465D032C22file-A7559D5E-49A3-4BCF-9288-74AC3E0BA4F5-431-000000465E5E1FFAfile-CF33E9AD-559C-45F2-A5CE-BAE3192113BB-431-000000466119F095file-AEC4FC0B-EF6B-418C-8EFF-F0A8361EB29B-431-000000465F349156

 

 

file-9F485812-55D7-410F-9123-8D48814D7537-431-000000465ABBDD98file-AF192648-6550-40E8-A3F5-172BC794D39A-431-0000004659FD7A4E

After such a fabulous morning, we wonder what The Moscow metro has in store …!

St Petersburg – History

file-31892C13-DFBB-4A07-B90C-D27B54CC87ED-263-0000000BAC6B8FB2

St Petersburg was founded by Peter the Great in 1703. Its location on the Baltic Sea was chosen so that Russia could develop a seaport as Peter was determined to forge a new Russia by opening the country to Europe. He had to defeat not only Sweden who controlled part of the region, but also the unsuitable land and armies of peasants and prisoners of war were forced to work to convert the swamp into a glittering city with many dying in the process. After Peter’s death, first Empress Elizabeth and then Catherine the Great continued the development of St Petersburg and it grew in splendour to become one of Europe’s grandest capitals.

file-2A6DA7C2-85EB-46B6-B376-F985E5228FDD-263-0000000BAD210DEBThe Romanovs had ruled for over 200 years and increased the Russian Empire but they still relied on autocracy and when serfdom was finally abolished in 1862, the serfs ended up worse off than before and moved to the cities to work in factories where conditions were terrible. Disillusionment brought revolt, starting with the People’s Will who assassinated Alexander II with a grenade in the street in St Petersburg in 1881.

By 1905, unrest had escalated and St Petersburg had become a hotbed of strikes and political violence and on ‘Bloody Sunday’ strikers marched to petition the tsar in the Winter Palace and were fired on by troops. Maxim Gorky was there that day and wrote that the Tsars prestige has been killed here, that is the meaning of this day.  In 1917 the workers’ protests became a general strike and this led to Lenin’s coup in St Petersburg which made Russia the world’s first communist state.

file-C914111C-0673-443D-BB17-BE369EB9431D-431-00000031851B068B

The capital returned to Moscow in 1918, Stalin came to power and after Lenin’s death in 1924 St Petersburg was renamed Leningrad and it became a hub of Stalin’s industrialisation program.  The defining event of the 20th century for Leningrad was the Nazi blockade of some 900 days during WWII when around a million people died from shelling, starvation and disease as Hitler tried – unsuccessfully – to wipe the city from the earth as the home of Bolshevism.

Once the USSR crumbled in 1991, citizens voted to rename the city St Petersburg, it was spruced up for its 2003 its tercentenary celebrations and local boy Vladimir Putin continues to promote the city of his birth.

 

St Petersburg – The Hermitage

file-A98510E8-AB94-4062-95E4-0610C328502F-431-0000004C265E5E93

We entered the immense Palace Square through the triumphal arch and the Winter Palace was before us, begun by Rastrelli for Empress Anna then added to first by Empress Elizabeth and then Catherine the Great until it was a palace fit to be the official residence of the imperial family.

file-F4DF4DB8-1C6C-4304-B3C1-1A1F3CFD5A04-431-0000004C2700A077

The troops were on parade 1945 style …

file-A228123B-22F0-4F5C-96FC-A527893B7FC1-431-0000004C24BFEF93file-1941EA60-4CF5-445A-BEE1-D887ED4218DE-431-0000004C256C2E93

We collected our pre-booked tickets, luckily missing the huge queue again and headed inside up the Jordan Staircase, so called as the imperial family used it to descend to the Neva on the 6th January annually to celebrate Christ’s baptisim in the River Jordan. Talk about stunning …!

file-D7ECDE6F-013C-4EC9-9939-F557E2F2D201-431-0000004C2440B74E

Next came the Imperial Apartments …

file-59EA018B-9759-414C-9405-C415E13B1CB6-431-0000004C2208D76Dfile-66ADDDAD-0E03-4E93-BF47-E7A3F8B3F495-431-0000004C21440550file-5595879F-CA3E-4B4F-A390-2520BDE27B42-431-0000004C2099579Ffile-B6922544-1E1D-4FE4-A0D8-E7FB6A69C634-431-0000004C1F75EFB0

… including the splendid Malachite Hall …

file-69139DB2-95F8-4707-9FD1-0D9DCCA7804D-431-0000004C22B80A28

… Gothic Library …

file-A5E03740-35A0-4502-A826-69378E53AF2A-431-0000004C204CB778

… and Golden Drawing Room

file-4B497D81-0908-4C4E-8C60-59E80752D026-431-0000004C1EDD2A29

… the Boudoir

file-19FCF3B8-21F8-46B6-BAA6-82A3CD837BFE-431-0000004C1F1FC4B6

Then the state rooms including the Great Church …

file-F5A58169-17AC-4547-9237-F802B9C7DCFC-431-0000004C1E1B1C62

… St George’s Hall with a red throne …

file-499CCFCD-C6F9-43A7-AC77-DFF14DC4B97A-431-0000004C1D182B91

… and the amazing Pavilion Hall with its moorish confection of gilt and glass as well as a huge mosaic on the floor and hanging garden outside.

P1040368P1040369Must also mention with everything else there was to see, the fabulous array of parquet flooring in every room, with every pattern imaginable …

and also the babushkas sitting in every room, keeping an eye on things.

P1040407

This was only a fraction of what the Hermitage has to offer – we just picked the swankiest staterooms, and barely looked at the art collections, but we had been on our feet for three hours and so headed out to the courtyard.

We found a cosy Russian country restaurant for some lunch and a rest just round the corner.

The afternoon was The Hermitage part two, in other words the newly converted General Staff Building which now contains extensive Impressionist and Post- Impressionist art collections. We really liked the stylish atrium spaces and stairs but the rest of the museum felt a bit strange in its semi-circular building.

P1040301

As for the paintings … well there were lots of Gauguin and Van Gogh and some Monet but no water lilies. Then there were a couple of Russian avant garde – a Kandinsky and a very Black Square by Malevitch.

P1040402IMG_1079

Finally, there were loads of Picasso and Matisse. I think it was a case of museum wilt as few of the paintings drew our attention, but I liked this one by Charles Hoffbauer

P1040397

After we rested our weary feet, we popped in to the Russian Vodka Museum where we were shown round by an engaging guide who explained the exhibits and gave a run down on the history of vodka and some of the customs that have grown up round Russia’s national drink.

P1040411

It began as bread wine, distilled by monks in Moscow in the C15th and remained fairly low in alcohol.  In Peter the Great’s time, he punished people for lateness by making them drink a tot – about a two pint tot – in penance, but at the same time, devised a badge of shame, weighing some 7kg that had to be worn for round the neck for a week for being drunk.

P1040418

The first official use of the word vodka (coming from vada meaning water) was when Empress Elizabeth licensed vodka distilleries in 1751 and a century later it was established as the drink of choice for Russians, becoming more popular a few years later as the monopoly was removed and it was affordable by all. The classic recipe for vodka of 40% alcohol to water mixture was patented in 1894 by Mendeleyev, the inventor of the periodic table. Vodka hasn’t always been available however as during  WWI prohibition was introduced by Tsar Nicholas and never have the Russian people required as much medicinal spirit!  Again in the 1980s, Gorbachov carried out an anti-alcohol campaign with posters saying NO to a small glass of vodka. Olga said most Russians said no, make mine a double!

P1040416

Today, if someone buys and new car or house it is considered good luck to put the keys in a glass of vodka and drinking it, dating from soldiers doing the same with their war medals.  Our tour ended with a tasting and little Russian snacks to soak up the liquor.  I’m pleased I tried,  but I’m not a very discerning spirits drinker, and to me it tasted the same as any clear spirit drunk neat so they won’t be making a convert of me, although the vodka flavoured with chilli and honey was more interesting!

P1040414

We returned to Gosti for dinner, and found everyone on party mood, celebrating the restaurant’s 6th birthday.  We had another lovely dinner including little herring pate toasts, beef stroganov and aubergine Parmesan.

St Petersburg – Catherine Palace

Another beautiful day and we spent it at the huge imperial estate called Tsarskoye Tselo or the Tsars Village.  We look the metro then the bus for 30 minutes out of the city, passed huge numbers of apartment blocks surrounded by countryside.

file-C5DFF949-692F-420D-ACD6-06553644B23E-795-000000C3B4BF0B84
We had a walk to Catherine Park, and saw this church on the way.

file-22FA6A15-87F4-48EC-B531-DD27868A22B3-795-000000C3B47BAD7F
Our main destination is the beautiful and baroque Catherine Palace, named after Peter the Great’s second wife and designed by Rastrelli for Peter’s daughter Empress Elizabeth. Later, Catherine the Great had many of the interiors remodelled in classical style and it was used as summer residence of the Tsars.

file-556C51EB-A38F-48A6-B1C0-27DDC876CE19-795-000000C3B22B2BA2

Once we arrived and exchanged our prebooked voucher for tickets, we had a bit of a wait to get in, during which time we took pictures of the rear or the palace and the courtyard.

file-4F597A17-C366-4E60-AF68-33A42289BB95-795-000000C3ADF4A6BBfile-6E57DA0E-B0C2-4D9B-A370-E5C373C2CD6C-795-000000C3AD44518Bfile-A569CD01-201E-40AB-9F0A-2730B74FF9AA-795-000000C3ABE82D46file-82AF88E0-0475-42A8-AD60-526E3D94CB2A-795-000000C3AC9C408Efile-5339F4C0-37B1-4031-B030-0278AAAF6B0A-795-000000C3AB2F1670

We entered by a stunning marble staircase …

file-682570CA-0B9F-4612-A93F-54CA97B28CBA-795-000000C3A719DA57

and followed the route on the audio guide … and the crowds … and entered the grand suit of formal rooms known as the Golden Enfilade which began with the Grand Hall or the Hall of Lights …

file-3DDBB6CE-D608-4E60-B5F4-81FD62178A38-795-000000C3A9E818C1file-A18A87BC-507D-4047-B92F-DD638DD123C2-795-000000C3A86F2507

Next up were a couple of dining rooms and the large structure that you might spot in the corner of many of the rooms, covered with blue and white Delft tiles is the stove, necessary for heating the palace rooms.

file-0AE8F2F3-B2D2-4095-BDBE-CA0847738880-795-000000C3A7C2B141file-79F49B65-5FA5-49A3-BD8E-0C8B7BEF3F41-795-000000C3A66BABB9file-0F128A90-9FAB-46E6-B72C-F8012A233697-795-000000C3A46677C7

A succession of rooms followed, with beautiful furniture, lots of gilding, and lots of stoves!

file-F6A39682-783E-4BF3-8F7A-7C2D3CC35D14-795-000000C3A5C89A70file-9A046B9D-B254-4099-B65E-5BCEA043F84B-795-000000C3A3BD90B3file-E1C29FFA-D74D-40AE-AE3D-C099AC137494-795-000000C3A04DECACfile-ED93D091-4674-4255-BD7D-29FC58741440-795-000000C39F7F22F9file-634D1579-5DC6-4B2D-A13E-91AA68E67212-795-000000C39EA3F816file-7EDCCBE8-69B7-4B6B-BF0A-AD63B6830D05-795-000000C39E3DD246

The famous Amber Room contained panels made from amber from the Baltic Sea which were originally presented to the Peter the Great by the King of Prussia.  These were plundered during WWII and the present room is a reconstruction opened in 2004, restored largely with German Funds. The room is amazing, the richly coloured panels are surrounded by gilding and make the room feel warm – no wonder Catherine the Great liked spending the evening in here.  We were not allowed to take pictures in the room, but here are a couple of distance shots of the amber!

file-B45BF3F1-B99B-4461-8A91-78FE40BD94E9-795-000000C3A17E522Ffile-63BC0A68-3463-4030-8B25-A4F82163745D-795-000000C3A0F174B9

The lovely Catherine Park surrounds the palace and we spent a couple of hours walking round the lake and looking at the variously strategically placed follies and pavilions.

file-446445C3-47BD-4F49-BFA5-672AD09C71C1-795-000000C39CC2D28D

P1040242P1040240P1040247P1040243P1040255P1040256P1040257P1040259P1040262P1040266

We we were lucky to have such a beautiful day for our outing. We returned to St Petersburg and chose Zoom for dinner … guess what, a cute fusion cafe where you get to draw pictures … and Chris finally tried borscht …and despite not particularly liking beetroot, I thought it was yummy too!

 

 

St Petersburg – St Isaac’s Cathedral and around

 

file-E056647A-9A61-48AB-B3EE-2B06D112F312-295-0000001C4A47B05DWe slept well and awoke to sunshine and blue skies and a breakfast of oats, toast and excellent coffee served in our room.

We walked along the Moyka canal that runs along behind where we are staying to the Yusupov Palace.

file-6C7F429E-50C7-4E90-8C9B-8F7067C76D37-295-0000000FB150698B

The facade is undergoing restoration and was covered by scaffolding, but inside we went up a stunning white marble staircase to the state rooms.

file-B7423BCA-278C-4230-9F1D-ABC17DBC6E07-295-0000000FB09D9FFB

These were all sumptuously decorated in the C19th and including a very pretty Green Drawing Room with remarkably contemporary looking Karelia birch wood furniture …

file-2497376B-95D1-4822-A366-AE44A566F17A-295-0000000FAFC724F3file-7687D9D3-AD6D-416E-9BD3-7A3CE587B43F-295-0000000FB061BCFCfile-667712CA-83C4-42DB-AD0B-580DFCCD674C-295-0000000FAF2802AB

… the White Columned Hall …

file-D63FC8E6-6BE9-498D-A931-E70619BA5674-295-0000000FAE8871EF

Turkish Bath and also a theatre.

file-3FA69781-283C-4AD9-8814-944ED346664E-295-00000015E7E56FCE

The palace is notorious for being the place where Rasputin was murdered in 1916 by plotters including Felix Yusupov. Apparently he was tricky to despatch, as he was first poisoned, then shot and finally drowned in the canal outside!

file-9EF1051B-8538-4082-BCF7-A1EEBBA3A7A1-295-0000000FAACB6566

We hoped to see something of the Mariinsky Theatre as it’s history is as glittering as its auditorium, with many famous musicians, dancers and singers performing here but it was not possible without seeing a performance, and at the moment the Mariinsky is performing in London!

file-C4D78260-6989-4097-A385-2B225E61D975-295-0000000FAA8CCD8D

A need for some more roubles brought us into this huge skylighted banking hall which seemed to belong to an age gone by. Part bank, part post office, it was filled with people going about their business, with space to sit and write and plenty of tellers … and an ATM tucked away in the foyer!

file-F56EB2B3-EA97-405A-B24A-36A6F45928FC-295-0000000FA1A01366

file-4E04CEAB-D04E-4E08-92E2-22183A0F3F6C-295-0000000FA44FFE59
file-B28520AE-347C-454E-880D-F8D6315D1F0B-295-0000000FA36D2AFEfile-B4FFEA55-A03B-4D92-A0A0-D986751B9BD4-295-0000000FA2C96AFA

We stopped for lunch in another cute eatery and Chris had a cheese roll while I had an interesting salad with pickled zucchini, roast beef and radishes.  I really enjoyed my sea blackthorn cold tea with cranberry and honey, but Chris wasn’t so sold on his rather turquoise ginger lemonade!

 

The pretty blue Nikolsky cathedral reaches upwards with baroque spires and golden domes and is surrounded on two sides by canals. It also has a bell tower overlooking the canal.

file-1D507939-51B7-4D92-B7C9-BF08FEA4E4EE-295-0000000FA6E65D9Dfile-E956C2E0-18EA-4B42-BB75-05A1C1D68281-295-0000000FA653FE5Efile-5910D61E-61AA-4B2B-923C-A0FF4427D1DA-295-0000000FA774916F

We crossed Lviny most with regal lions keeping watch …

file-180A3226-1E05-4293-90A7-5535B6375191-295-0000000FA5D6AD82

… then on to St Isaac’s Cathedral, named after St Isaac of Dalmatia on whose feast day Peter the Great was born. 100kg of gold leaf covers the dome alone and the interior is just as lavish with mosaics, marble and malachite.

file-E056647A-9A61-48AB-B3EE-2B06D112F312-295-0000001C4A47B05Dfile-60F486D8-809E-4AFF-8163-4EE9548A8ABC-295-0000001AB4132191file-1DB3CA12-D3C4-4AA4-834F-913C46E86CFA-295-0000001AB48DD495file-FE730459-72AB-4492-B4C3-771641179EEF-295-0000001AB567E2B6

We climbed the 279 steps to the dome and had a great view in all directions, to the Palace Square and Hermitage …

file-5DCCA066-D7B9-43BE-AA97-7313D592040C-295-0000001AB6187F6D

… across towards Vasilyevsky Island …

file-B1F158BC-29B5-4823-B050-17F8A60EFB6C-295-0000001AB73B66A1

… and down into St Isaac’s Square .

file-15CC9600-0667-4078-96FE-C4365C231469-295-0000001AB6A1BE5B

Everyone was enjoying the sunshine and in Senate a Square we passed the huge equestrian statue of Peter the Great commissioned by Catherine the Great, which was later named the Bronze Horseman after a poem by Pushkin.  It stands on the Thunder Stone, the largest stone ever moved by humans, using a metal sledge sliding on copper balls along a metal track taking 32 men 9 months.

file-C4F33224-B125-4B3F-A76A-54FA5EE2DF6F-295-0000004A8AEBF325file-0EB6372E-B831-4A17-90EC-4F22BCE075EC-295-0000004A8AA545DA

Across the water is Vasilyevsky Island, which Peter intended as the heart of his city, but instead became the maritime hub. The cream and white building is Menshikov Palace which was the first stone building in the city and built by the first governor of the St Petersburg, which we didn’t visit, but was the setting for many banquets including the reception for Peter’s dwarf wedding at which Peter and his Court sniggered at some 70 dwarfs brought from all over Russia to attend the marriage of Peter ‘s favourite dwarf.

file-5AB86638-0D49-476C-B62B-7F0FA8674290-295-0000004A8C4F7D0F

Next along the shore is the Kunstkamera, or Museum of Ethnology and Anthropolgy, billed as a top-sight but one we chose to miss as we didn’t fancy its collection of ghoulish biological malformations including babies in bottles.

Crossing the bridge, we walked to the Strelka where two rostral columns, studded with ships’ prows and sculptures representing Russia’s great rivers stand as landmarks.  They were oil-fired navigation beacons in the 1800s and are still sometimes lit in public holidays.

From here there are views of The Hermitage one way …

file-D6701CC8-46F5-4715-B41D-22EE73C97A33-295-0000004A8CD9B8AE

and the Peter & Paul Fortress the other.

file-2F96D81B-A665-4AEA-AE42-C331232752B3-295-0000004A8BE062BF

We took the bus back to the B&B, and picked a bus with a crazy bus driver.  After jolting the lady beside him, Chris said sorry, the driver must be Italian, but the lady replied in perfect English, no he’s a crazy Georgian!’  We chatted with us till we got off, and she was delighted we were going to see so much of Russia and wished us a good trip.

We went to The Clean Plates Society for dinner, another modern Russian/fusion restaurant only a short walk away. I had crepe type pancakes with sour cream and red salmon roe followed by black pelmeni which were like little pasta parcels filled with beef and Chris had spinach and broccoli soup and Georgian lobio, a dish of stewed red beans with walnuts, cheese and coriander, all of which was delicious.

Tomorrow, we are off on a day out!