The day began with a drive out into the desert to discover the Desert Castles of Azraq, Kharanah and Amra which are located on a strip of Jordan between Iraq and Saudi.
They date from the early Islamic era and were built as retreats for the Caliphs of the time. Qsar al-Azraq is a crusader castle, first built by the Romans, and more recently home to a Lawrence during the Arab Revolt in 1917.
The huge basalt doors were heavy to open, turning slowly on basalt pivots, lubricated with palm oil.
We were pleased to have a comfort stop, but should have taken the sign as a warning!
Next was Qusayr Amra, which formed part a large Umayyad complex which included a bathhouse, hunting lodge, roadside inn and also a castle which no longer exists.
Renowned for being a pleasure palace, the walls are adorned with frescoes that reflected early Islamic life with images of wrestlers, half-naked women, dog races and hunting.
Next was Qasr al-Kharanah, named for the surrounding harra or gravel plains.
Despite its fortified appearance, it does not seem to have served a military function as the towers and arrow slits are ornamental, so quite probably it served as a meeting place with the local tribes to gain their support for the Umayyad dynasty.
After a very long morning, we continued to the Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth at 400m below sea level. Actually a landlocked lake, it is bordered by the Israeli-occupied West Bank to the west and Israel to the southwest. We stopped at a resort hotel where we could change and have a quick bite to eat …
… then walked down to the shore, fortunately warned the ground was hot and stony, so we elegantly wore our socks!
The mineral-rich mud is said to be therapeutic so game for anything, we slapped some on …
… then floated in the salty waters, careful not to splash our faces or get the water in our eyes as it is 10 times saltier than the sea …
… and here are our feet!
All too soon it was time to shower and change and return to Amman.
Once more we ventured out for dinner to Mijana, a family run restaurant just off Rainbow Street.
It was a little chilly for the garden so we sat in the rooftop restaurant, overlooking the city …
… with warm twinkly lights inside and a cellist accompanying our meal.
We ordered a selection of mezze including haloumi for Chris and hummus with meat for me and a selection of vegetables and ended up with this …
Needless to say we just couldn’t finish the salad!
Off Travelling Together 