Having decided it was a bit too far to comfortably walk to the beach with stuff, we loaded up the car and drove to a beachside car park where for a fiver, we could park all day. Deciding to explore first, we followed the ferry path behind the beach in Southwold with views across the marshes to the common and the golf course. It led to the estuary of the River Blythe which has Southwold on one side and Walberswick on the other. We explored a little …
… then bought a ticket for the ferry which has been run by the Church family since 1885.
Walberswick has been a favourite venue and inspiration for artists since the beginning of the 19th century and I was interested to read that a friend invited Charles Rennie Mackintosh here. He came to recharge his batteries and arrived with his wife in 1914 as war broke out. He worked on drawings and watercolours, mainly near the river but restrictions were introduced near the coast and artists working en plein air were regarded with suspicion. That didn’t stop him walking in the evening with a forbidden lantern and what with his connection with the Viennese Secession, rumour started and he was arrested for signalling to the enemy and banished from East Anglia for the duration of the war.
We stopped for a coffee, walked into the centre with just a couple of shops and an ice cream parlour and saw people crabbing off the bridge and enjoying the beach before returning to Southwold.
This part of the harbour is called Blackshore as the coal was once unloaded here, and it’s home to a strip of fish shops and cafes which were already open and busy serving lunch. We had to be a little careful, as several fry authentically in beef dripping, but Mrs T had a sign advertising rapeseed oil and Chris tucked into veggie spring rolls with his chips while I had cod … always tasting better at the seaside.
Replete, we walked back to the car and picked our kit and had just a short walk over the road to the beach.
It had got quite warm, so we were pleased for the parasol, just for a while, as we watched the world go by. I’ve been doing a sewing challenge and brought this week’s project with me to stitch on the beach.
We were thinking back to the last time each of us had been on a proper beach holiday in England and we both decided it was when we were around 10 years old. Chris was vague with details, but I remember Woolacombe and Bude in 1973! That might even have been the last time I got in the sea in England too … so braved a dip … and when I realised how cold it was, knew why I’d left it so long! Chris managed little more than a paddle, but did get his swimmers wet!
Continuing in the spirit of the day, Chris had bought me a bucket and spade in the little shop, carefully chosen for its slightly retro styling and eco credentials – no sharp edges and 100% recycled! I now set to work on a stunning edifice, with a central mound, and decorative stonework on the turrets!
Time for a bit of a time out …
Later we packed up, left everything in the car and went in search of ice cream. We walked up Gun Hill which looks out over the beach and Sole Bay. Southwold was headquarters for the English fleet in 1672 and they were attacked by the Dutch in the famously well-known Battle of Sole Bay. They fought all day with about 2000 men were killed on each side, then the Dutch sailed home at sunset after a well-fought draw.
We chose lemon curd and rum & raisin and sat on South Green, surrounded by elegant seaside villas to eat them before returning to the Wagon Store.
Happy with a quiet evening in, we sat in the garden and cracked open the prosecco then had an easy dinner of spiced beans and salad.
Off Travelling Together 