The shortest hop to the largest island and we landed at the smallest jetty!
Ko Samui is a lot larger than the other islands, over 200 sq kms, and we are staying in Maenam in the north, at Harry’s Bungalows which are nestled back from the beach in gardens with a pool.
The jetty is one way then the beach is fronted by a couple of resorts and a cafe or two then just sand for quite a way, the texture of demerara sugar rather than the icing sugar we have been spoilt with. It’s also not that easy to walk on easily giving way under foot. Behind are a few quiet streets with the usual mix of massage parlours, moped hire, cafes and mini marts and a wat. There seem to be quite a few French on the island and we’ve seen a several French bakeries and lots of crepes on offer.
Having been quite chilled so far, now seemed a good time to be a bit more active. We had planned to visit Ang Thong Marine Park while we were here, but after our experience in Ko Tao, we refused to be lured by a pretty photograph as the reality of the day trips sounds quite different, with busy boats and lots of tourists … and we weren’t too sure about football golf either, although Chris fancied his chances!
One day we took hailed a songthaew and took a ride along the main island ring road to see the Big Buddha temple which sits on a small island at the end of a causeway surrounded by gift shops. The 12-metre seated Buddha statue was built in 1972 and must have a constant headache as all the flights into the island go straight overhead.
Wat Plai Laem was next, another modern temple, this time with elements of Chinese and Thai traditions. Its main statue is of Guanyin, the “goddess” of compassion and mercy …
… and there is also a huge laughing Chinese Buddha which represents wealth and prosperity …
… as well as other buildings and a shrine to Ganesh.
We stopped at the Happy Elephant in Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach for lunch then wandered round the fancy gift shops before returning to relax round the pool at Harry’s.
Chris was eager to take a spin round the island by moped, so having secured a suitable vehicle … basically it was red … we were off.
We chose the mountain route south and hoped it wouldn’t be too steep for the bike to manage. It was fine, and in most places with a good surface, and far less busy than the main road that runs round the island. It was also lovely to get into the countryside with palm trees all around.
We stopped at Kuhn Si waterfall where there was a great view down towards Lamai.
We walked down a steep path through the jungly jungle but fortunately the waterfall was worth it and we stopped for a cold drink afterwards.
At this point the rain hit, although Chris bore the brunt of it while I stayed fairly dry! Huge waves were crashing on the beach at Lamai, and it was still grey so we didn’t stop for a dip.
We did stop at a couple of wats, one with amazing terracotta decoration …
… and the other with a mummified monk. He died in 1973 and didn’t decompose so he was put on view as an inspiration to follow Buddhist teachings. His eyeballs have dried out which looks horrid so he now wears sunglasses.
We then took the road inland again and stopped for lunch with a view … shame it was still a bit cloudy.
It was also a bit blowy and all of a sudden a gust swept my sunglasses off the table and down into jungly jungle! Well I suppose I’m lucky to have kept them most of our trip … I left them on the seat in the catamaran to Ko Tao and someone noticed and told Chris! I have such a proeblem losing, breaking or damaging glasses on holiday and this is the 6th pair I’ll need to replace when I get home!
Anyway, moving on, the next stop was the well signposted and therefore not so secret Secret Buddha Garden, with a waterfall which had been decorated with strategically placed statuary which made for an interesting photo op.
Finally we headed back round the main road, stopping at Bang Po beach for a look, a paddle and a cold drink before returning the bike safe and sound.
Another day we went to a cookery class run by InFusion which we shared with a young couple from Tonbridge Wells. We were met by Oil who took us for a tour of the market and we bought some chillis to bring home.
She also helped us to cook the three dishes we had chosen – spicy and sour mushroom soup, massaman pumkin curry with snake beans and sweet and sour tofu with crispy ginger.
We always enjoy cooking classes and this was no exception and our finished results were all delicious.
After a rest by the pool, in the evening we walked to Maenum Walking Street to browse the market. Not really hungry after a large lunch, we nibbled … Chris on cheesy potato balls and me on crispy soft shell crabs with chilli dipping sauce and we brought back some beers and sat on our verandah playing Uno.
Other evenings have been spent trying out the different local restaurants both for cocktails and dinner, but no sunset photos here … just a lunar eclipse!
And all too soon the last day of our holiday is here as the rest is travelling home. The pool catches the sun in the morning so we started there, moving on later to a massage. We had dinner at Pooms where we had pre-ordered a splendid steamed fish with chilli and garlic for me which was a fitting end to our trip, while Chris had a great Penang curry with tofu.
Tomorrow … Bangkok!
Off Travelling Together 