We didn’t have the smoothest start to our trip this morning, as just as we were about to leave for Gatwick at 5.30, I realised I’d forgotten to book the parking. Fortunately this was soon sorted online, but once on our way we saw diversion signs as the M3 was closed, but we still arrived at Gatwick in plenty of time to enjoy breakfast before our flight. We arrived in Rome to a grey sky and a bit of drizzle, but by the time we had made our way by bus and metro to B&B Blue Roma, the sun had come out. The B&B is on the 6th floor of a smart apartment block, fortunately with a lift and close to the metro and local restaurants. We have a large and comfortable room and a breakfast of bread, pastries and coffee sets us up for the day.
We are staying near San Giovanni in Laterno, to the south-east of the city, named for the basilica which is officially the cathedral of Rome and the seat of the pope as bishop of Rome. The first church was built here by Constantine in the C4th but it had a makeover by Borromini in the C17. The Lateran Palace was the original papal residence in the Middle Ages, but when the papacy returned from Avignon in the C14th, it was in ruins and the pope moved into the Vatican instead. It also has the tallest of the eight ancient Egyptian obelisks in Rome standing outside. I wasn’t expecting to like the cathedral particularly, but I was impressed. The huge porch contains a statue of Constantine at the end and the doors are from the Curia or Senate House of the Roman Forum. A service was in progress as we went inside and the singing added to the atmosphere. The nave is lined with monumental Baroque statues of the saints, each with its attribute like Bartholemew who was flayed alive! The ceiling is gilded and draws your eye towards the Gothic baldacchino or canopy over the altar and the mosaic covered apse behind, which while splendid, replaces the lost originals.
In the piazza behind the basilica is the Lateran Obelisk, the largest standing ancient Egyptian obelisk in the world, and One of eight brought from Egypt to Rome by various Emperors.
We fancied a walk so set off to the Baths of Caracalla, named for one of the most brutal and shortest-lived rulers of Rome, but close to where we are staying. The stone pines in the surrounding gardens made a great photo op with the ruins.
The complex is huge, and really gives an idea of how monumental Roman architecture was. There is a long central hall with baths rounds the outside, an Olympic size swimming pool, and vast courtyards used for sports.
On our way back we stopped at Gelabo gelato, and Chris’s choice of coffee and pistachio was a winner.
Later, we had super thin and crispy pizza at Trattoria Simonetta, a family run place with red checked tableclothes and a constant stream of pizza takeaway customers just round the corner from our B&B.
Off Travelling Together 