Well Chris said, having got as far as New Zealand, why turn round … let’s keep going, so we did! After eight weeks in a campervan Chris was looking forward to having no car keys and I was looking forward to dining out rather than cooking camper meals … and some sun would be nice as South Island got a bit chilly!
Somewhere along the line, it dawned on us that although we left New Zealand on Saturday, the following day was also going to be Saturday as we had crossed the International Date Line … Chris did take a pic of the screen on the plane, but from planning the trip to now, with so much in between, I’d forgotten all about it!
The warm air hit us as we got off the plane and we waited for our luggage we listened to Uncle Jack and his ukulele who has made everyone’s arrival at Avarua Airport for the last 17 years or so that little bit more relaxed. We were given a floral ei by the taxidriver, including fragrant gardenias, but rain accompanied our transfer … it’s tropical here!
Avarua is the main town and in the north of Rarotonga and we were staying at Muri, the next largest village in the south-east. The centre has hilly jungle and everyone lives close to the 32km road which runs round the outside. There are lots of scooters whizzing round the island, but we got about by bus, either the clockwise bus, or the anti-clockwise bus! Not that there are many places to go apart from Avarua!
Steve and Phoebe welcomed us to Muri Retreat which has four self catering apartments, ours on the first floor with ocean view.
Every time we walked up the road we saw the mountains and passed the munching goats and roosters that made a racket every morning. Muri, a 10 minute walk away, has a beachfront with a few small resorts of varying luxury, some self catering villas, and a string of small buildings along the road including churches a couple of convenience stores, a few souvenir shops and four restaurants, which we tried out during our stay, but we started with the closest. That was a lucky move, as just after we sat down, the heavens opened and it poured with rain. Fortunately there was a short stop later and we managed to get back before the rain started again … and it rained all night!
Saturday morning is the weekly Punanga Nui Avarua Marke t, and we visited once in the rain and again in the sun! We saw a show with drummers, dancers and singers, who take the Cook Island culture abroad, visiting NZ, Australia and Hawaii. Trader Jacks, an iconic watering hole with panoramic views provided delicious smoked marlin fish cakes, so good in fact, we returned for the smoked marlin salad while Chris had pizza … twice!
Sunday morning we set off to get the bus to Titikaveka, the next village, for a visit to church. The rain began as we waited, and a chap stopped his car, asked where we were going, and gave us a lift which was very kind. The church was large, plain, whitewashed but with simple stained glass and lots of tropical flowers. We were made very welcome and were able to hear the wonderful singing for which the islands are famous. The traditional hymns were sang a cappella, but others were accompanied and all were sung with great enthusiasm and volume. We were invited for refreshments and were able to try bread fruit, taro, marshmallowy coconut and dragon fruit as well as egg sandwiches and cake, all washed down with orange squash. We had only just begun our walk back when our friendly driver appears to give us a lift back!
Monday had an early shower, then the sun came out. We hoped that the depression causing the unusual amount of rain might be moving away. We walked down to Muri and hired a kayak for an hour. Rarotonga has a reef all round the island and at Muri its about 600m out, and within the lagoon are four moti or small islands. We paddled to one of the islands, had a quick explore, and paddled back. The water is shallow and we did see people walking across to the island. Our coordination was thrown slightly by the sideways current but it was fun. Still sunny in the afternoon, we spent a couple of hours on the beach, which is quite small with only a few feet from tree line to sea, watching the paddle boarding hound!
We spent a happy hour or so wandering round the gardens called Marie Nui in Titikaveka taking photos of the tropical planting. A lime quencher in the cafe, chilling to their cool playlist and reviewing our snaps and that’s another morning gone! The weather became drier as the week progressed, but also windier, and less sun … till the last day which was perfect!
The best food on the island is the freshly caught fish which is delicious while virtually everything else is imported from New Zealand. In Muri we had Mexican and pizza at La Casita, Thai fusion at The Rickshaw and fish and pasta at LBV and Sails. There is also the Muri Night Market several nights a week, where stalls set up round a field with trestle tables offering all sorts of local food like kebabs, curries and burgers. I had a delicious chicken stew cooked with local spinach, but the locals don’t really understand vegetarian so we didn’t go again. One night we went to a resort for their Cultural Evening, and had a selection of Polynesian dishes, and a show with drummers and dancers which was fun.
Chris has a fascination with Captain Cook, so finding out we could visit the Cook Islands … well it just had to be done and we’ve had a lovely relaxing time. Rarotonga is certainly a tropical island, lovely and warm but not always dry and sunny, also quite small and basic so maybe we wouldn’t recommend visiting unless you happened to be passing! Chris has been a daily buffet for the mozzies, even more than in New Zealand, so he’s quite happy to move on.
Last port of call before home … Los Angeles.
Off Travelling Together 